Obligatory C5 Thread

[Huckleberry]

It's one reason why I am a big fan of my GTO. The engine bay is rather roomy and almost everything is easily accessible.

The 944 basically requires you to pull the transaxle and slid the torque tube back, and then the proper procedure is to remove the engine from the bottom. A lift would make it easier, but I managed with jackstands and dollies.

Did you drop the engine from the bottom with jackstands and dollies?

I came out the top with the original engine, which is certainly doable. However, due to the hydroboost, I had to go in from below with the new engine.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Did you drop the engine from the bottom with jackstands and dollies?

I came out the top with the original engine, which is certainly doable. However, due to the hydroboost, I had to go in from below with the new engine.

Ahhh, yes. That certainly complicates packaging.

[Apex]

So glad my 968 had a split bell housing when I did the clutch. No need to touch the transaxle or anything.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

So glad my 968 had a split bell housing when I did the clutch. No need to touch the transaxle or anything.

Was that OEM or was the TT modified?

[Huckleberry]

I came out the top with the original engine, which is certainly doable. However, due to the hydroboost, I had to go in from below with the new engine.

Ahhh, yes. That certainly complicates packaging.

Indeed. We'll see how it works, but I can see myself doing something else in the future to try and free up some space in the engine bay, whether that be an electric booster or a remote diaphragm.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Ahhh, yes. That certainly complicates packaging.

Indeed. We'll see how it works, but I can see myself doing something else in the future to try and free up some space in the engine bay, whether that be an electric booster or a remote diaphragm.

I'm sure electric booster options are getting more common these days no? Last I looked at this was 10 years ago, and the options were crazy limiting.

[Apex]

So glad my 968 had a split bell housing when I did the clutch. No need to touch the transaxle or anything.

Was that OEM or was the TT modified?

OEM.

[Huckleberry]

Indeed. We'll see how it works, but I can see myself doing something else in the future to try and free up some space in the engine bay, whether that be an electric booster or a remote diaphragm.

I'm sure electric booster options are getting more common these days no? Last I looked at this was 10 years ago, and the options were crazy limiting.

I honestly don't know. A brief search is only pulling up a $1400 option, but I'm sure I could pull something from an OE car. The remote vacuum diaphragm I'm seeing is like $800, and honestly isn't a bad option as long as the pedal feel is good. I would just have to relocate the battery to the rear since the thing is 22" long, but putting it in the battery tray would keep things tidy. The only thing with the diaphragm is that it hinges on how much vacuum my engine would actually pull, otherwise I would have to install a vacuum pump and then I'm adding more stuff to the engine bay and bringing the cost much closer to the electric option.

[Acid666]

So I'm doing some pricing out. There's an autocross in my city in a month (it's usually always an hour away) so I'm considering doing this swap before then.
Budget swap, but no real performance parts.
Here's my list so far along with the price on Rockauto. Trying to stick with Luk parts and whatever they offer that's OEM if it's available.
Let me know if I'm missing something.

Luk clutch and flywheel: $263
Contains Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Flywheel, all Necessary Pilots, Accessory Pack , Release Bearing Not included
Throwout bearing (GM Genuine): $71. There is an AC Delco available for $22
Slave Cylinder: Luk $67
Master Cylinder: Luk $31
Rear Main Seal: Gm Genuine $19
Tik Remote Bleeder: $50

I don't know if the clutch kit comes with flywheel bolts so I'll likely figure that out and add them in if needed.
Total for all of this is $501. Half of that whole LS7 kit. I don't plan on going with more power from a cam or anything anytime soon. And this'll possibly be a selling point for if I do sell it in the future. I've only put 15K miles on it since I've had it (bought at 70K and at 85K currently), so having a low mileage clutch and the $$$ Forgestars will help keep my asking price high.

[D Griff]

So I'm doing some pricing out. There's an autocross in my city in a month (it's usually always an hour away) so I'm considering doing this swap before then.
Budget swap, but no real performance parts.
Here's my list so far along with the price on Rockauto. Trying to stick with Luk parts and whatever they offer that's OEM if it's available.
Let me know if I'm missing something.

Luk clutch and flywheel: $263
Contains Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Flywheel, all Necessary Pilots, Accessory Pack , Release Bearing Not included
Throwout bearing (GM Genuine): $71. There is an AC Delco available for $22
Slave Cylinder: Luk $67
Master Cylinder: Luk $31
Rear Main Seal: Gm Genuine $19
Tik Remote Bleeder: $50

I don't know if the clutch kit comes with flywheel bolts so I'll likely figure that out and add them in if needed.
Total for all of this is $501. Half of that whole LS7 kit. I don't plan on going with more power from a cam or anything anytime soon. And this'll possibly be a selling point for if I do sell it in the future. I've only put 15K miles on it since I've had it (bought at 70K and at 85K currently), so having a low mileage clutch and the $$$ Forgestars will help keep my asking price high.

In4 you selling it to me when I am I no longer have a C5.

I reinstalled my factory steering wheel yesterday, my goodness it is horrid. I will be swapping the seats back to stock and the wheels to stock, other than that I think it will go to Carvana as-is. It's looking more and more like I'm really going to but still not really 100% committed.

In the event that I do, I will have some various shit available (most of it free) if anyone who still has a C5 wants it.

Free would be car cover, Lloyd's black rubber mats, factory radio, one black C6 seatbelt, some random other parts, I'll have to check.

I would sell my Sparco seat(s) (I think the QRT-R is spoken for by a local friend), MOMO wheel, and the Z0sex wheels/Azenis.

[Acid666]

So I'm doing some pricing out. There's an autocross in my city in a month (it's usually always an hour away) so I'm considering doing this swap before then.
Budget swap, but no real performance parts.
Here's my list so far along with the price on Rockauto. Trying to stick with Luk parts and whatever they offer that's OEM if it's available.
Let me know if I'm missing something.

Luk clutch and flywheel: $263
Contains Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Flywheel, all Necessary Pilots, Accessory Pack , Release Bearing Not included
Throwout bearing (GM Genuine): $71. There is an AC Delco available for $22
Slave Cylinder: Luk $67
Master Cylinder: Luk $31
Rear Main Seal: Gm Genuine $19
Tik Remote Bleeder: $50

I don't know if the clutch kit comes with flywheel bolts so I'll likely figure that out and add them in if needed.
Total for all of this is $501. Half of that whole LS7 kit. I don't plan on going with more power from a cam or anything anytime soon. And this'll possibly be a selling point for if I do sell it in the future. I've only put 15K miles on it since I've had it (bought at 70K and at 85K currently), so having a low mileage clutch and the $$$ Forgestars will help keep my asking price high.

In4 you selling it to me when I am I no longer have a C5.

I reinstalled my factory steering wheel yesterday, my goodness it is horrid. I will be swapping the seats back to stock and the wheels to stock, other than that I think it will go to Carvana as-is. It's looking more and more like I'm really going to but still not really 100% committed.

In the event that I do, I will have some various shit available (most of it free) if anyone who still has a C5 wants it.

Free would be car cover, Lloyd's black rubber mats, factory radio, one black C6 seatbelt, some random other parts, I'll have to check.

I would sell my Sparco seat(s) (I think the QRT-R is spoken for by a local friend), MOMO wheel, and the Z0sex wheels/Azenis.

I may be interested in the wheel. But I'm frugal. Lol. The stock one is horrid. Once I drove 's I was like.... shit, this thing is massive.
I think once I get this clutch fixed I might drive it a bit more but most of my money is about to go into this MR2

[D Griff]

In4 you selling it to me when I am I no longer have a C5.

I reinstalled my factory steering wheel yesterday, my goodness it is horrid. I will be swapping the seats back to stock and the wheels to stock, other than that I think it will go to Carvana as-is. It's looking more and more like I'm really going to but still not really 100% committed.

In the event that I do, I will have some various shit available (most of it free) if anyone who still has a C5 wants it.

Free would be car cover, Lloyd's black rubber mats, factory radio, one black C6 seatbelt, some random other parts, I'll have to check.

I would sell my Sparco seat(s) (I think the QRT-R is spoken for by a local friend), MOMO wheel, and the Z0sex wheels/Azenis.

I may be interested in the wheel. But I'm frugal. Lol. The stock one is horrid. Once I drove 's I was like.... shit, this thing is massive.
I think once I get this clutch fixed I might drive it a bit more but most of my money is about to go into this MR2

I’ll probably hold onto it until the car is actually gone, if I wind up keeping it, the stock wheel is indeed horrid.

I’ll let you know though, I’d likely let it go for pretty cheap, and include the NRG hub for the Corvette and everything. It’s the same wheel Alan had.

[D Griff]

In4 you selling it to me when I am I no longer have a C5.

I reinstalled my factory steering wheel yesterday, my goodness it is horrid. I will be swapping the seats back to stock and the wheels to stock, other than that I think it will go to Carvana as-is. It's looking more and more like I'm really going to but still not really 100% committed.

In the event that I do, I will have some various shit available (most of it free) if anyone who still has a C5 wants it.

Free would be car cover, Lloyd's black rubber mats, factory radio, one black C6 seatbelt, some random other parts, I'll have to check.

I would sell my Sparco seat(s) (I think the QRT-R is spoken for by a local friend), MOMO wheel, and the Z0sex wheels/Azenis.

I may be interested in the wheel. But I'm frugal. Lol. The stock one is horrid. Once I drove 's I was like.... shit, this thing is massive.
I think once I get this clutch fixed I might drive it a bit more but most of my money is about to go into this MR2

I’ll probably hold onto it until the car is actually gone, if I wind up keeping it, the stock wheel is indeed horrid.

I’ll let you know though, I’d likely let it go for pretty cheap, and include the NRG hub for the Corvette and everything. It’s the same wheel Alan had.

[Acid666]

So I'm doing some pricing out. There's an autocross in my city in a month (it's usually always an hour away) so I'm considering doing this swap before then.
Budget swap, but no real performance parts.
Here's my list so far along with the price on Rockauto. Trying to stick with Luk parts and whatever they offer that's OEM if it's available.
Let me know if I'm missing something.

Luk clutch and flywheel: $263
Contains Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Flywheel, all Necessary Pilots, Accessory Pack , Release Bearing Not included
Throwout bearing (GM Genuine): $71. There is an AC Delco available for $22
Slave Cylinder: Luk $67
Master Cylinder: Luk $31
Rear Main Seal: Gm Genuine $19
Tik Remote Bleeder: $50

I don't know if the clutch kit comes with flywheel bolts so I'll likely figure that out and add them in if needed.
Total for all of this is $501. Half of that whole LS7 kit. I don't plan on going with more power from a cam or anything anytime soon. And this'll possibly be a selling point for if I do sell it in the future. I've only put 15K miles on it since I've had it (bought at 70K and at 85K currently), so having a low mileage clutch and the $$$ Forgestars will help keep my asking price high.

Also, anyone know if I should take this cover plate off the rear main and replace this gasket if I do? For the rear main seal should I just pry the seal out and tap a new one back in or pull the whole plate? If I pull that plate I'd likely replace the oil barbell as well. Just not sure if I should worry about it.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

So I'm doing some pricing out. There's an autocross in my city in a month (it's usually always an hour away) so I'm considering doing this swap before then.
Budget swap, but no real performance parts.
Here's my list so far along with the price on Rockauto. Trying to stick with Luk parts and whatever they offer that's OEM if it's available.
Let me know if I'm missing something.

Luk clutch and flywheel: $263
Contains Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Flywheel, all Necessary Pilots, Accessory Pack , Release Bearing Not included
Throwout bearing (GM Genuine): $71. There is an AC Delco available for $22
Slave Cylinder: Luk $67
Master Cylinder: Luk $31
Rear Main Seal: Gm Genuine $19
Tik Remote Bleeder: $50

I don't know if the clutch kit comes with flywheel bolts so I'll likely figure that out and add them in if needed.
Total for all of this is $501. Half of that whole LS7 kit. I don't plan on going with more power from a cam or anything anytime soon. And this'll possibly be a selling point for if I do sell it in the future. I've only put 15K miles on it since I've had it (bought at 70K and at 85K currently), so having a low mileage clutch and the $$$ Forgestars will help keep my asking price high.

Also, anyone know if I should take this cover plate off the rear main and replace this gasket if I do? For the rear main seal should I just pry the seal out and tap a new one back in or pull the whole plate? If I pull that plate I'd likely replace the oil barbell as well. Just not sure if I should worry about it.

When I did mine, GM sold a kit with the cover plate with gasket installed, new bolts, and plate gasket. The kit was essentially the same price as everything separately WITHOUT the plate, so I just bought the kit to make install easier. The gasket has a centering ring in it, so I just used that and followed a tightening sequence I found online. Zero leaks from the RMS for 10k miles after I did it.

The oil barbell seems like a solution looking for a problem. I get the theory behind it, but it just seemed like a waste of money to me. LS engines were made by the million with the stock design without major issues relating to oil filtration, if you change your oil constantly like I did, I just didn't see the point. I'm sure others disagree, but for how I used my car, it didn't seem necessary.

[Acid666]

I may be interested in the wheel. But I'm frugal. Lol. The stock one is horrid. Once I drove 's I was like.... shit, this thing is massive.
I think once I get this clutch fixed I might drive it a bit more but most of my money is about to go into this MR2

I’ll probably hold onto it until the car is actually gone, if I wind up keeping it, the stock wheel is indeed horrid.

I’ll let you know though, I’d likely let it go for pretty cheap, and include the NRG hub for the Corvette and everything. It’s the same wheel Alan had.

Let me know if you're interested in selling the wheel before you sell the car. I may be a little more inclined to buy it.
I attended that local event that races here once a year this weekend, changed the oil, Modified Ranger'd the master cylinder with Dot4 to try to keep the soggy clutch demons at bay, and smoked all of the people registered in CAM-S, T and C with completely shit 315 Rivals that are beyond heat cycled out. I'm not even comfortable drag racing these things in a straight line on a flat road because they just grease out between gears. I even beat a local friend who's been entered in CAM with some R888s, which I think are 80 treadware. He's getting better, but not enough to where his tires are doing most of the work. Soon he'll need to change to a proper class.

But it felt good to get out there and ride my slop mobile into first place amongst a massive group of Cam people. Wondering where I land in the entire field of over 115 cars.
So yeah, lemme know about that wheel y0. I don't really have intentions of selling mine, and may consider doing a cam with new springs and shit along with slicks next year.

[D Griff]

I’ll probably hold onto it until the car is actually gone, if I wind up keeping it, the stock wheel is indeed horrid.

I’ll let you know though, I’d likely let it go for pretty cheap, and include the NRG hub for the Corvette and everything. It’s the same wheel Alan had.

Let me know if you're interested in selling the wheel before you sell the car. I may be a little more inclined to buy it.
I attended that local event that races here once a year this weekend, changed the oil, Modified Ranger'd the master cylinder with Dot4 to try to keep the soggy clutch demons at bay, and smoked all of the people registered in CAM-S, T and C with completely shit 315 Rivals that are beyond heat cycled out. I'm not even comfortable drag racing these things in a straight line on a flat road because they just grease out between gears. I even beat a local friend who's been entered in CAM with some R888s, which I think are 80 treadware. He's getting better, but not enough to where his tires are doing most of the work. Soon he'll need to change to a proper class.

But it felt good to get out there and ride my slop mobile into first place amongst a massive group of Cam people. Wondering where I land in the entire field of over 115 cars.
So yeah, lemme know about that wheel y0. I don't really have intentions of selling mine, and may consider doing a cam with new springs and shit along with slicks next year.

I actually uninstalled it a week or two ago and have all of the stuff. This is kind of a crazy week but I'll try to get it boxed up and PM you in the next few weeks!

[Acid666]

Let me know if you're interested in selling the wheel before you sell the car. I may be a little more inclined to buy it.
I attended that local event that races here once a year this weekend, changed the oil, Modified Ranger'd the master cylinder with Dot4 to try to keep the soggy clutch demons at bay, and smoked all of the people registered in CAM-S, T and C with completely shit 315 Rivals that are beyond heat cycled out. I'm not even comfortable drag racing these things in a straight line on a flat road because they just grease out between gears. I even beat a local friend who's been entered in CAM with some R888s, which I think are 80 treadware. He's getting better, but not enough to where his tires are doing most of the work. Soon he'll need to change to a proper class.

But it felt good to get out there and ride my slop mobile into first place amongst a massive group of Cam people. Wondering where I land in the entire field of over 115 cars.
So yeah, lemme know about that wheel y0. I don't really have intentions of selling mine, and may consider doing a cam with new springs and shit along with slicks next year.

I actually uninstalled it a week or two ago and have all of the stuff. This is kind of a crazy week but I'll try to get it boxed up and PM you in the next few weeks!

Yeah no rush. And no biggie if you don't want to sell. Just lettin ya know I'm kinda half ass in the market

[CaleDeRoo]

[Acid666]

[wap]

[CaleDeRoo]

Just maintenance.




Pricey maintenance

[wap]

Just maintenance.




Pricey maintenance

Oh.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Still the best personalized plate ever.

Clutch job is no fun brings back memories.

[Huckleberry]

What clutch are you going with?