Griff's Garage

[D Griff]

Alright y'all... I need help.

I cannot get pressure in my brake system.

I have bled it at the master cylinder, bled it at all four corners a ton, like 1.5 liters of fluid through the system. I don't see any leakage at the master cylinder and it all worked fine before draining all of the fluid out of the calipers. Could there be air in the ABS system? I'm not even sure how to get that out, the brakes don't do enough to get ABS to activate I don't think.

No leaking anywhere? Did you start the car to build vacuum? Did you let the master run dry while pumping the pedal? Zero air in the lines or is there still some bubbles?

The only way air would get in the ABS system is if you let the master go completely dry while pumping the pedal.

IIRC, it took a ton of bleeding on my car after rebuilding the calipers to get all the air out.

I may just need to keep doing it, but it's been a lot. Like I said, about 1.5 liters in total of fluid.

[D Griff]

Alright y'all... I need help.

I cannot get pressure in my brake system.

I have bled it at the master cylinder, bled it at all four corners a ton, like 1.5 liters of fluid through the system. I don't see any leakage at the master cylinder and it all worked fine before draining all of the fluid out of the calipers. Could there be air in the ABS system? I'm not even sure how to get that out, the brakes don't do enough to get ABS to activate I don't think.

No leaking anywhere? Did you start the car to build vacuum? Did you let the master run dry while pumping the pedal? Zero air in the lines or is there still some bubbles?

The only way air would get in the ABS system is if you let the master go completely dry while pumping the pedal.

IIRC, it took a ton of bleeding on my car after rebuilding the calipers to get all the air out.

I actually haven't started the car since I bled at the master cylinder... maybe I will try that. I definitely haven't touched the pedal while the master was dry ever.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

No leaking anywhere? Did you start the car to build vacuum? Did you let the master run dry while pumping the pedal? Zero air in the lines or is there still some bubbles?

The only way air would get in the ABS system is if you let the master go completely dry while pumping the pedal.

IIRC, it took a ton of bleeding on my car after rebuilding the calipers to get all the air out.

I may just need to keep doing it, but it's been a lot. Like I said, about 1.5 liters in total of fluid.

I believe I went through 2 liters on mine. I remember running to the auto parts store to get more fluid.

So what's it doing...pedal soft? Goes to the floor?

[ChrisoftheNorth]

No leaking anywhere? Did you start the car to build vacuum? Did you let the master run dry while pumping the pedal? Zero air in the lines or is there still some bubbles?

The only way air would get in the ABS system is if you let the master go completely dry while pumping the pedal.

IIRC, it took a ton of bleeding on my car after rebuilding the calipers to get all the air out.

I actually haven't started the car since I bled at the master cylinder... maybe I will try that. I definitely haven't touched the pedal while the master was dry ever.

It doesn't hurt to try starting the car to see if vacuum helps build pressure.

[D Griff]

I may just need to keep doing it, but it's been a lot. Like I said, about 1.5 liters in total of fluid.

I believe I went through 2 liters on mine. I remember running to the auto parts store to get more fluid.

So what's it doing...pedal soft? Goes to the floor?

Yep, goes to the floor. It'll build pressure with a few pedal pumps but then five seconds later it will go to the floor again. If I start the car and drive it, there is almost no braking force, maybe 1-5% of normal.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

I believe I went through 2 liters on mine. I remember running to the auto parts store to get more fluid.

So what's it doing...pedal soft? Goes to the floor?

Yep, goes to the floor. It'll build pressure with a few pedal pumps but then five seconds later it will go to the floor again. If I start the car and drive it, there is almost no braking force, maybe 1-5% of normal.

Wow, weird...and there's no leaking anywhere? Seems like there's a massive leak or a bunch of air somewhere.

[D Griff]

Yep, goes to the floor. It'll build pressure with a few pedal pumps but then five seconds later it will go to the floor again. If I start the car and drive it, there is almost no braking force, maybe 1-5% of normal.

Wow, weird...and there's no leaking anywhere? Seems like there's a massive leak or a bunch of air somewhere.

I can't find a leak anywhere, no. Everything looks perfect.

[max225]

I believe I went through 2 liters on mine. I remember running to the auto parts store to get more fluid.

So what's it doing...pedal soft? Goes to the floor?

Yep, goes to the floor. It'll build pressure with a few pedal pumps but then five seconds later it will go to the floor again. If I start the car and drive it, there is almost no braking force, maybe 1-5% of normal.

Maybe take it to a pro shop... a brake bleed should only be around 99-200 and it will save you a lot of headache?

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Wow, weird...and there's no leaking anywhere? Seems like there's a massive leak or a bunch of air somewhere.

I can't find a leak anywhere, no. Everything looks perfect.

Gotta be air somewhere then.

Did you follow the RR, RL, FR, FL order? I wonder if there's air transferring between lines?

[D Griff]

I can't find a leak anywhere, no. Everything looks perfect.

Gotta be air somewhere then.

Did you follow the RR, RL, FR, FL order? I wonder if there's air transferring between lines?

I did originally, then looked it up to see that that's actually incorrect for '99+ C5s, so I tried the RR, LF, LR, RF which is the GM specified way.

I just called a local shop that specializes in GM and classics. I will take it there Tuesday.

I think it must be in the ABS system or something.

[max225]

Gotta be air somewhere then.

Did you follow the RR, RL, FR, FL order? I wonder if there's air transferring between lines?

I did originally, then looked it up to see that that's actually incorrect for '99+ C5s, so I tried the RR, LF, LR, RF which is the GM specified way.

I just called a local shop that specializes in GM and classics. I will take it there Tuesday.

I think it must be in the ABS system or something.

I think this is a correct next step. It's going to be around $200 but at least it'll be done right. If you can't get the brakes to work after all this effort it presents a very strong liability.

[D Griff]

I did originally, then looked it up to see that that's actually incorrect for '99+ C5s, so I tried the RR, LF, LR, RF which is the GM specified way.

I just called a local shop that specializes in GM and classics. I will take it there Tuesday.

I think it must be in the ABS system or something.

I think this is a correct next step. It's going to be around $200 but at least it'll be done right. If you can't get the brakes to work after all this effort it presents a very strong liability.

the shop is at least very legit and I trust them as they build cool as hell things like a Grand National drag car, vintage BroncBro, etc. At this point, about the money. It's not going to be a huge amount. I will likely try to bleed it some more for shits and gigs though. I have half a liter of fluid left I need to use.

[max225]

I think this is a correct next step. It's going to be around $200 but at least it'll be done right. If you can't get the brakes to work after all this effort it presents a very strong liability.

the shop is at least very legit and I trust them as they build cool as hell things like a Grand National drag car, vintage BroncBro, etc. At this point, about the money. It's not going to be a huge amount. I will likely try to bleed it some more for shits and gigs though. I have half a liter of fluid left I need to use.

Right, I mean, this isn't like a $900 quote i got for a snapped rear leafspring bolt. Because they need "SPECIAL TOOLS" to fix it... I did it on a curb in front of my place as it no longer cleared speed bumps.

[D Griff]

the shop is at least very legit and I trust them as they build cool as hell things like a Grand National drag car, vintage BroncBro, etc. At this point, about the money. It's not going to be a huge amount. I will likely try to bleed it some more for shits and gigs though. I have half a liter of fluid left I need to use.

Right, I mean, this isn't like a $900 quote i got for a snapped rear leafspring bolt. Because they need "SPECIAL TOOLS" to fix it... I did it on a curb in front of my place as it no longer cleared speed bumps.

Holy shit.

[max225]

Right, I mean, this isn't like a $900 quote i got for a snapped rear leafspring bolt. Because they need "SPECIAL TOOLS" to fix it... I did it on a curb in front of my place as it no longer cleared speed bumps.

Holy shit.

My love for runs deep bruh.

[D Griff]

FInally installed the trailer hitch on the Beemah this morning, took about three hours, but man, so nice compared to the Corvette where shit had to be drilled and all that.

is at the shop tying up a few loose ends from the work done - alignment, brake bleed issues, etc. I dropped it off yesterday AM, haven't heard back yet

[D Griff]

Completed hitch install:


Mid project:


I thought it was neat how all the parts are labeled on BMW - left and right, F30/F31, M Sport, etc:


Obligatory cleaning behind the tail lights shot:



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[max225]

now you shouldn't be ashamed to drive the car now that it is clean behind the tail lights.

[D Griff]

One thing I will say about BMW... the engineering as far as these things go is a lot better than other vehicles I've owned (Honda, GM, Fraud, Mazderp). There aren't a bunch of clips guaranteed to break when removing the bumper, there are enough fasteners that you can easily reinstall without the alignment being all jacked up, aforementioned part labeling, etc. It was kind of a breath of fresh air after spending so many hours wrenching on the C5.

[D Griff]

Also, local shop quoted me $450 to install the same hitch, I paid $77 shipped + three hours

[max225]

Also, local shop quoted me $450 to install the same hitch, I paid $77 shipped + three hours

It took 3 hrs to pull the bumper/lights ? I did this for my golf/Q5 for other reasons and it usually takes about 30-45min to pull and 15-20 min to reinstall. Was it due to cleaning?

[D Griff]

Also, local shop quoted me $450 to install the same hitch, I paid $77 shipped + three hours

It took 3 hrs to pull the bumper/lights ? I did this for my golf/Q5 for other reasons and it usually takes about 30-45min to pull and 15-20 min to reinstall. Was it due to cleaning?

This includes getting out tools, cleaning, all that shit. my car work always takes about 300% of forumbruh times too, maybe it's just that I'm slow. I find that I always run into at least a handful of unexpected problems. In this particular job, one screw was stripped when I was trying to pull the bumper cover, and it took me about an hour to get it out. Other than that, it's just a lot of screws.

[max225]

It took 3 hrs to pull the bumper/lights ? I did this for my golf/Q5 for other reasons and it usually takes about 30-45min to pull and 15-20 min to reinstall. Was it due to cleaning?

This includes getting out tools, cleaning, all that shit. my car work always takes about 300% of forumbruh times too, maybe it's just that I'm slow. I find that I always run into at least a handful of unexpected problems. In this particular job, one screw was stripped when I was trying to pull the bumper cover, and it took me about an hour to get it out. Other than that, it's just a lot of screws.

Either way that's a over $100 an hr...

[D Griff]

This includes getting out tools, cleaning, all that shit. my car work always takes about 300% of forumbruh times too, maybe it's just that I'm slow. I find that I always run into at least a handful of unexpected problems. In this particular job, one screw was stripped when I was trying to pull the bumper cover, and it took me about an hour to get it out. Other than that, it's just a lot of screws.

Either way that's a over $100 an hr...

Plus, rather than clean everything, the shop probably would have just scratched everything and only installed 2/3 of the screws upon re-installation.

[Tar]

It took 3 hrs to pull the bumper/lights ? I did this for my golf/Q5 for other reasons and it usually takes about 30-45min to pull and 15-20 min to reinstall. Was it due to cleaning?

This includes getting out tools, cleaning, all that shit. my car work always takes about 300% of forumbruh times too, maybe it's just that I'm slow. I find that I always run into at least a handful of unexpected problems. In this particular job, one screw was stripped when I was trying to pull the bumper cover, and it took me about an hour to get it out. Other than that, it's just a lot of screws.

I like taking SOME things off of the VW, others have been a little sketchy, I wonder how similar VW and BMW are in this regard, @max225 probably knows.

I'm with you on taking longer then average, especially doing something on my car for the first time. about being efficient with my side projects.