I have a motive power bleeder, a quickjack, an air wrench to remove lugs and a torque wrench to put them back on. That makes it very easy to run two quarts of ATE Dot 4 through all my brakes on the reg. In addition to safety and peace of mind, it keeps the various components of your braking system from needing repair/replacement.Tar wrote: ↑Sun May 29, 2022 10:10 amWhat are your thoughts on that frequency? I'm always going the distance with brake fluid (like double the recommended) and have yet to experience brake fade or any other problems. I guess water causes rusting of brake lines? Who knows?Huckleberry wrote: ↑Sun May 29, 2022 9:17 am
I thought it was every 30,000 miles? I just changed the fluid in mine.
The other thing with these cars is the brake fluid needs to be changed three years after purchase, and then every two years afterwards. That was an update that VW mailed out.
:wtf: WAP made a car thread? AKA the most boring car thread ever
- Desertbreh
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And he basically repeats the same thing everybody else already said. DFD, the homogenous brake fluid forum.
Probably the only people on the entire internet save track day bros who change brake fluid.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 4:37 pm And he basically repeats the same thing everybody else already said. DFD, the homogenous brake fluid forum.
I really need to get some kind of impact though, the wheel removal/replacement is the most time consuming aspect of this job for me.
The Motive is certainly an overpriced milk jug, but man is it worth it for the convenience.
Do y'all actually put fluid in the container? I just top off the car's master cylinder and use it to pressurize.
Do y'all actually put fluid in the container? I just top off the car's master cylinder and use it to pressurize.
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I do it the same as you and I have ZERO IDEA how you are going to put fluid in the container without running a shitload of air through your system, and everyone on the internet glosses this fact over as well. Even if the hose was completely filled with fluid/air free, you would still have the air between the Motive cap and your master cylinder. I don't get it at all. :in4enlightenment:
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I used to do it myself... but at around $120-200 for a full flush it seems like money way better spent. I have never spent less than 2 hrs dealing with brake fluid exchanges and then you always have to get rid of it at a toxic waste dump which is another 40 min round trip to no where.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:05 pmI do it the same as you and I have ZERO IDEA how you are going to put fluid in the container without running a shitload of air through your system, and everyone on the internet glosses this fact over as well. Even if the hose was completely filled with fluid/air free, you would still have the air between the Motive cap and your master cylinder. I don't get it at all. :in4enlightenment:
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D Griff wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 12:32 pmProbably the only people on the entire internet save track day bros who change brake fluid.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 4:37 pm And he basically repeats the same thing everybody else already said. DFD, the homogenous brake fluid forum.
I really need to get some kind of impact though, the wheel removal/replacement is the most time consuming aspect of this job for me.
The last time I changed brake fluid myself was on my Beetle, 37 years ago.
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I did chase some air out of the MBZ driver rear line last time I changed it. I was hoping for some kind of rock hard 8 piston caliper P car pedal..........and it didn't happen. Some improvement but not transformational. I've gotten pretty pit crew on my ramz and the quickjack helps a lot. Three of my BMW ramz were seized on the hub last time doe, basically had to kick them loose. Added anti-seize where wheel meets hub when reinstalling.D Griff wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 12:32 pmProbably the only people on the entire internet save track day bros who change brake fluid.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Mon May 30, 2022 4:37 pm And he basically repeats the same thing everybody else already said. DFD, the homogenous brake fluid forum.
I really need to get some kind of impact though, the wheel removal/replacement is the most time consuming aspect of this job for me.
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My toxic waste dump is very conveniently located so that helps with the DIYmax225 wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:08 pmI used to do it myself... but at around $120-200 for a full flush it seems like money way better spent. I have never spent less than 2 hrs dealing with brake fluid exchanges and then you always have to get rid of it at a toxic waste dump which is another 40 min round trip to no where.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:05 pm
I do it the same as you and I have ZERO IDEA how you are going to put fluid in the container without running a shitload of air through your system, and everyone on the internet glosses this fact over as well. Even if the hose was completely filled with fluid/air free, you would still have the air between the Motive cap and your master cylinder. I don't get it at all. :in4enlightenment:
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storm drain?Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:10 pmMy toxic waste dump is very conveniently located so that helps with the DIYmax225 wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:08 pm
I used to do it myself... but at around $120-200 for a full flush it seems like money way better spent. I have never spent less than 2 hrs dealing with brake fluid exchanges and then you always have to get rid of it at a toxic waste dump which is another 40 min round trip to no where.
I mostly didn't have issues with air but occasionally they did happen... but I used the suck at the bleed nipple method vs push at the reservoir method. Overall it seems better to be done by pros. Brake fluid isn't super cheaper either... $30 in parts... easily. + clean up + toxic waste run + occasional fuck up...
One problem with the shop strategy... are they really using the fluid you want? On a street car but I'd like the ability to turn some laps in my car when the opportunity presents itself. OEM fluid does not work on the track, period.
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We call it ABOP in Riverside Co. Antifreeze, Batteries, Oil and Paint. Definitely one of my favorite uses of .gov funds.max225 wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:15 pmstorm drain?Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue May 31, 2022 1:10 pm
My toxic waste dump is very conveniently located so that helps with the DIY
I mostly didn't have issues with air but occasionally they did happen... but I used the suck at the bleed nipple method vs push at the reservoir method. Overall it seems better to be done by pros. Brake fluid isn't super cheaper either... $30 in parts... easily. + clean up + toxic waste run + occasional fuck up...
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ABOP dudes always ask if there is anything else in my motor oil.
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Repair shops basically have two tanks for waste fluid: "Coolant" and "Not Coolant." I keep a container for each of those categories in my garage.
Well now I feel a bit bad about what I've done for the past 15+ years. My dad would always use the old brake fluid as weed killer at least I have improved in that way. I always figured that it wasn't actually recycled and just hoped they somehow safely disposed of it.
No one in the Southeast GAF about anything but I do on a personal level, I'll have to find the brake fluid disposal place next time.
I actually need to bleed the 328i one more time after I installed the SS lines recently, it still feels ever so slightly to soft in the pedal for me.
No one in the Southeast GAF about anything but I do on a personal level, I'll have to find the brake fluid disposal place next time.
I actually need to bleed the 328i one more time after I installed the SS lines recently, it still feels ever so slightly to soft in the pedal for me.
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A bit under 32k miles and 3 years of ownershit. Car is now 4 years old so I took it in today for its annual earl change. I also bought an extra quart to keep in the hatch as it consumed about a half-quart over the past year. My Mk6 did that too in its earlier years but the consumption stopped later on in its too-short life. Had a coupon for a free rotation but the SA said they opted not to do it because the better tires were already on the front. . He also said I'll need front pads and rotors in a year. My Mk6 was on its original rotors and pads all around when it was totaled at almost 10 years old so also . He also said I need tires. Whatever. I'll dump these dumpy Dunlops next year and pick up something then.
$109 for the oil and filter change. All in it was $137 for the change plus fluid topoff, extra qt of oil, tire fill up. Which reminds me, I should check the tire pressures because they rarely get them all right and consistent. lol
So 3 years in and the car is still tight and pretty much rattle-free. Yay MQB I guess. No leaks (no sunroof, either), Still decently quick and quiet. Still getting about 26 mpg in (sub)urban driving and can easily get into the low-mid 30's in extended highway driving.
Still don't much care for the infotainment system. BT connects pretty reliably but overall sound is a bit meh and I still miss my CD changer and COMPASS.
$109 for the oil and filter change. All in it was $137 for the change plus fluid topoff, extra qt of oil, tire fill up. Which reminds me, I should check the tire pressures because they rarely get them all right and consistent. lol
So 3 years in and the car is still tight and pretty much rattle-free. Yay MQB I guess. No leaks (no sunroof, either), Still decently quick and quiet. Still getting about 26 mpg in (sub)urban driving and can easily get into the low-mid 30's in extended highway driving.
Still don't much care for the infotainment system. BT connects pretty reliably but overall sound is a bit meh and I still miss my CD changer and COMPASS.
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Your brakes probably wear faster because they are Golf R brakes versus the bullshit we got in the MK6.wap wrote: ↑Fri May 05, 2023 10:07 pm A bit under 32k miles and 3 years of ownershit. Car is now 4 years old so I took it in today for its annual earl change. I also bought an extra quart to keep in the hatch as it consumed about a half-quart over the past year. My Mk6 did that too in its earlier years but the consumption stopped later on in its too-short life. Had a coupon for a free rotation but the SA said they opted not to do it because the better tires were already on the front. . He also said I'll need front pads and rotors in a year. My Mk6 was on its original rotors and pads all around when it was totaled at almost 10 years old so also . He also said I need tires. Whatever. I'll dump these dumpy Dunlops next year and pick up something then.
$109 for the oil and filter change. All in it was $137 for the change plus fluid topoff, extra qt of oil, tire fill up. Which reminds me, I should check the tire pressures because they rarely get them all right and consistent. lol
So 3 years in and the car is still tight and pretty much rattle-free. Yay MQB I guess. No leaks (no sunroof, either), Still decently quick and quiet. Still getting about 26 mpg in (sub)urban driving and can easily get into the low-mid 30's in extended highway driving.
Still don't much care for the infotainment system. BT connects pretty reliably but overall sound is a bit meh and I still miss my CD changer and COMPASS.
I was around mid 40’s when I got mine handled. I did all 4 corners but not necessary. Fronts wear before rears.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Thu Oct 17, 2019 3:05 pm DFD. The forum where everybody makes the same choices and then tells anybody trying to join the club that they are the stupidest motherfucker to ever walk the earth.
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Thanks. SA told me , too. Do you brakes and rotors at all 4 corners cost you?razr390 wrote: ↑Sun May 07, 2023 10:31 amYour brakes probably wear faster because they are Golf R brakes versus the bullshit we got in the MK6.wap wrote: ↑Fri May 05, 2023 10:07 pm A bit under 32k miles and 3 years of ownershit. Car is now 4 years old so I took it in today for its annual earl change. I also bought an extra quart to keep in the hatch as it consumed about a half-quart over the past year. My Mk6 did that too in its earlier years but the consumption stopped later on in its too-short life. Had a coupon for a free rotation but the SA said they opted not to do it because the better tires were already on the front. . He also said I'll need front pads and rotors in a year. My Mk6 was on its original rotors and pads all around when it was totaled at almost 10 years old so also . He also said I need tires. Whatever. I'll dump these dumpy Dunlops next year and pick up something then.
$109 for the oil and filter change. All in it was $137 for the change plus fluid topoff, extra qt of oil, tire fill up. Which reminds me, I should check the tire pressures because they rarely get them all right and consistent. lol
So 3 years in and the car is still tight and pretty much rattle-free. Yay MQB I guess. No leaks (no sunroof, either), Still decently quick and quiet. Still getting about 26 mpg in (sub)urban driving and can easily get into the low-mid 30's in extended highway driving.
Still don't much care for the infotainment system. BT connects pretty reliably but overall sound is a bit meh and I still miss my CD changer and COMPASS.
I was around mid 40’s when I got mine handled. I did all 4 corners but not necessary. Fronts wear before rears.
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Random reference point... my Mk6 brakes were at 80% at 75k miles. But I am very easy on the brakes
4 brakes and rotors at a stealer will be a 2-3k proposition. Or 1500 or so at an indy
4 brakes and rotors at a stealer will be a 2-3k proposition. Or 1500 or so at an indy
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I agree with both you and . As I mentioned above I also never replaced brakes on my Mk6, and I fell that I am also easy on them. SA dude told me the Mk7/5 PP brakes use a higher metallic pad, as iTrude alluded to above.
Oh, and the estimate for the brake job was around $800 I believe, but I'll have to confirm tonight. I may be based on your estimate above. I'll post the estimate here this evening.