DFD

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 12:23 pm**

CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 11:42 am
Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 11:25 am
Common problems are easily solvable, but I'd still prefer to buy a car that they were all addressed (like mine). Buying a pre-modded car is a fantastic bargain IMO. I wish I had bought a heads/cam car myself. Would have been cheaper to start with by a wide margin.
Your car is the only thing that might keep me from a C6 tbh.

I considered looking at a C6Z, but when it really boiled down to it and I evaluated what I actually used the car for I don't need to go up in price on something with slightly better performance. It all depends on where you are in your car enthusiasm lifespan. Some people want shiny and new and more power, some people want full track mode beaters, some people want payments, some don't.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 12:27 pm**

CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 11:42 am
Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 11:25 am
Common problems are easily solvable, but I'd still prefer to buy a car that they were all addressed (like mine). Buying a pre-modded car is a fantastic bargain IMO. I wish I had bought a heads/cam car myself. Would have been cheaper to start with by a wide margin.
Your car is the only thing that might keep me from a C6 tbh.

I was talking to a buddy about my car who's mildly entertaining purchasing it. He's been shopping C6's and asked me what makes a C6 better than mine.

All I could think of was LS3 potential and styling. C6's are really just C5.5's, so aside from the larger engine and some steering and transmission improvements in 08, I'm not sure why anyone would pay a premium for a C6 over a C5. Especially a well sorted modified C5.

If I could go back in time, I would have have bought a higher miles modified C5 and went from there. Probably would have saved me well over $5k through all of it. C6 is :neat:

but meh. If I'm paying a premium, I'd just go all the way to a C7.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 12:42 pm**

Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 12:27 pm
CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 11:42 am

Your car is the only thing that might keep me from a C6 tbh.
I was talking to a buddy about my car who's mildly entertaining purchasing it. He's been shopping C6's and asked me what makes a C6 better than mine.

All I could think of was LS3 potential and styling. C6's are really just C5.5's, so aside from the larger engine and some steering and transmission improvements in 08, I'm not sure why anyone would pay a premium for a C6 over a C5. Especially a well sorted modified C5.

If I could go back in time, I would have have bought a higher miles modified C5 and went from there. Probably would have saved me well over $5k through all of it. C6 is but meh. If I'm paying a premium, I'd just go all the way to a C7.

I was thinking the same thing, but I question the long term daily reliability and maintenance of highly modified cars like yours. I don't know enough about them, and they might be no worse than an unmodified LS3 car, but I pack the miles on mine so that's really the only question mark. I'd love to keep my car, and refresh it like you have, and maybe add a LS3 but that's only because I like the green with the C5 body lines so much. I was 4-9 years old during the C5 production and it made a big impression on me. I didn't know much about cars but I new a C5 when I saw one.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:09 pm**

CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 12:42 pm
Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 12:27 pm
I was talking to a buddy about my car who's mildly entertaining purchasing it. He's been shopping C6's and asked me what makes a C6 better than mine.

All I could think of was LS3 potential and styling. C6's are really just C5.5's, so aside from the larger engine and some steering and transmission improvements in 08, I'm not sure why anyone would pay a premium for a C6 over a C5. Especially a well sorted modified C5.

If I could go back in time, I would have have bought a higher miles modified C5 and went from there. Probably would have saved me well over $5k through all of it. C6 is but meh. If I'm paying a premium, I'd just go all the way to a C7.
I was thinking the same thing, but I question the long term daily reliability and maintenance of highly modified cars like yours. I don't know enough about them, and they might be no worse than an unmodified LS3 car, but I pack the miles on mine so that's really the only question mark. I'd love to keep my car, and refresh it like you have, and maybe add a LS3 but that's only because I like the green with the C5 body lines so much. I was 4-9 years old during the C5 production and it made a big impression on me. I didn't know much about cars but I new a C5 when I saw one.

You can modify a car safely for reliability if you're smart about it. So many people just dump in the biggest cam they can with whatever valve springs and weak pushrods and just let it fly...that's where issues come in. If you're careful and methodical about it, the car can be just as reliable as a stock car.

If you wanted to keep your car but up the power, I'd do this...

1 3/4" LT headers
243 (LS6) Heads with mild porting, dual valve springs (for safety), titanium retainers, stock GMPP gaskets
Cam in the low to mid 220 intake duration, mid to high 220 exhaust duration, under .6" lift ~112 LSA (Cam Motion Titan 2 LS1 would be ideal)
LS7 lifters and hardened 11/32 pushrods
LS7 clutch (probably need a stronger clutch, but LS7 is "cheap" and good)
LS6 intake (you have)

That would probably net ~410-420 WHP, have excellent mid-range with solid top-end and be relatively easy on everything.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:58 pm**

Hmm I found a set of 4 rear wheels like the ones on my car for $200 and I think he would take less. Kinda want them so I can run a square setup.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:12 pm**

CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:58 pm Hmm I found a set of 4 rear wheels like the ones on my car for $200 and I think he would take less. Kinda want them so I can run a square setup.

4 rears? Not speedlines huh? I got a full set of Speedlines from a local guy for $250 because he just wanted em gone. I sold the 2 fronts to Griff and found 2 rears later.
If they're just regular wheels and you wanna run squares I'd say go for it. If they're speedlines or even Alcoas, jump on them shits with the quickness baw

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:16 pm**

Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:12 pm
CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:58 pm Hmm I found a set of 4 rear wheels like the ones on my car for $200 and I think he would take less. Kinda want them so I can run a square setup.
4 rears? Not speedlines huh? I got a full set of Speedlines from a local guy for $250 because he just wanted em gone. I sold the 2 fronts to Griff and found 2 rears later.
If they're just regular wheels and you wanna run squares I'd say go for it. If they're speedlines or even Alcoas, jump on them shits with the quickness baw

Yeah no they're just the polished five spokes. Rears don't rub anything on the front right? I figure if I might need new tires next season anyways it might look a little better too, but I've never seen these 18s in front I have no idea if it'll look lame.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:21 pm**

Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:12 pm
CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:58 pm Hmm I found a set of 4 rear wheels like the ones on my car for $200 and I think he would take less. Kinda want them so I can run a square setup.
4 rears? Not speedlines huh? I got a full set of Speedlines from a local guy for $250 because he just wanted em gone. I sold the 2 fronts to Griff and found 2 rears later.
If they're just regular wheels and you wanna run squares I'd say go for it. If they're speedlines or even Alcoas, jump on them shits with the quickness baw

Yeah no they're just the polished five spokes. Rears don't rub anything on the front right? I figure if I might need new tires next season anyways it might look a little better too, but I've never seen these 18s in front I have no idea if it'll look lame.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:26 pm**

CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:16 pm
Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:12 pm

4 rears? Not speedlines huh? I got a full set of Speedlines from a local guy for $250 because he just wanted em gone. I sold the 2 fronts to Griff and found 2 rears later.
If they're just regular wheels and you wanna run squares I'd say go for it. If they're speedlines or even Alcoas, jump on them shits with the quickness baw
Yeah no they're just the polished five spokes. Rears don't rub anything on the front right? I figure if I might need new tires next season anyways it might look a little better too, but I've never seen these 18s in front I have no idea if it'll look lame.

So, a big issue with the 18" thin spokes is cracking. It's well documented, but look VERY closely at where the spokes meet the barrel. Small cracks will form here and spread. Eventually the tire will start to leak air at the cracks, and worse things could happen eventually I imagine.

My car had 1 cracked wheel when I bought it. I replaced it, then the other wheel started a crack. I replaced that one and then when the first replacement wheel I bought started cracking, I bought my Z06 wheels and finished it off entirely. This all happened over the course of a year.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:29 pm**

Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:09 pm
CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 12:42 pm

I was thinking the same thing, but I question the long term daily reliability and maintenance of highly modified cars like yours. I don't know enough about them, and they might be no worse than an unmodified LS3 car, but I pack the miles on mine so that's really the only question mark. I'd love to keep my car, and refresh it like you have, and maybe add a LS3 but that's only because I like the green with the C5 body lines so much. I was 4-9 years old during the C5 production and it made a big impression on me. I didn't know much about cars but I new a C5 when I saw one.
You can modify a car safely for reliability if you're smart about it. So many people just dump in the biggest cam they can with whatever valve springs and weak pushrods and just let it fly...that's where issues come in. If you're careful and methodical about it, the car can be just as reliable as a stock car.

If you wanted to keep your car but up the power, I'd do this...

1 3/4" LT headers
243 (LS6) Heads with mild porting, dual valve springs (for safety), titanium retainers, stock GMPP gaskets
Cam in the low to mid 220 intake duration, mid to high 220 exhaust duration, under .6" lift ~112 LSA (Cam Motion Titan 2 LS1 would be ideal)
LS7 lifters and hardened 11/32 pushrods
LS7 clutch (probably need a stronger clutch, but LS7 is "cheap" and good)
LS6 intake (you have)

That would probably net ~410-420 WHP, have excellent mid-range with solid top-end and be relatively easy on everything.

Going off of this, you can save some loot by finding C6Z manifolds and midpipes. Your cam selection would need to keep those manifolds in mind.

I would use Trend 3/8" pushrods. They fit and are my go-to for any LS build. Dual valve springs aren't necessary as long as the cam's lobe design doesn't require insane seat pressures. You could easily go with a PAC 1218 or PSI 1511. The 3/8" pushrods will help keep everything stable at higher RPMs.

The LS7 clutch is cheap and should handle a bit of power. If you start cresting the 450 mark, I would step up the clutch to either a Monster Level 2, Mantic ER 2, or Diamond Stage 2.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:31 pm**

Huckleberry wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:29 pm
Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 1:09 pm
You can modify a car safely for reliability if you're smart about it. So many people just dump in the biggest cam they can with whatever valve springs and weak pushrods and just let it fly...that's where issues come in. If you're careful and methodical about it, the car can be just as reliable as a stock car.

If you wanted to keep your car but up the power, I'd do this...

1 3/4" LT headers
243 (LS6) Heads with mild porting, dual valve springs (for safety), titanium retainers, stock GMPP gaskets
Cam in the low to mid 220 intake duration, mid to high 220 exhaust duration, under .6" lift ~112 LSA (Cam Motion Titan 2 LS1 would be ideal)
LS7 lifters and hardened 11/32 pushrods
LS7 clutch (probably need a stronger clutch, but LS7 is "cheap" and good)
LS6 intake (you have)

That would probably net ~410-420 WHP, have excellent mid-range with solid top-end and be relatively easy on everything.
Going off of this, you can save some loot by finding C6Z manifolds and midpipes. Your cam selection would need to keep those manifolds in mind.

I would use Trend 3/8" pushrods. They fit and are my go-to for any LS build. Dual valve springs aren't necessary as long as the cam's lobe design doesn't require insane seat pressures. You could easily go with a PAC 1218 or PSI 1511. The 3/8" pushrods will help keep everything stable at higher RPMs.

The LS7 clutch is cheap and should handle a bit of power. If you start cresting the 450 mark, I would step up the clutch to either a Monster Level 2, Mantic ER 2, or Diamond Stage 2.

Are the Trend PR's tapered? I didn't think you could fit 3/8 PR's without clearancing the heads?

Dual springs help a bit with piece of mind IMO, but indeed overkill on a lower lift cam.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:41 pm**

Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:26 pm
CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:16 pm

Yeah no they're just the polished five spokes. Rears don't rub anything on the front right? I figure if I might need new tires next season anyways it might look a little better too, but I've never seen these 18s in front I have no idea if it'll look lame.
So, a big issue with the 18" thin spokes is cracking. It's well documented, but look VERY closely at where the spokes meet the barrel. Small cracks will form here and spread. Eventually the tire will start to leak air at the cracks, and worse things could happen eventually I imagine.

My car had 1 cracked wheel when I bought it. I replaced it, then the other wheel started a crack. I replaced that one and then when the first replacement wheel I bought started cracking, I bought my Z06 wheels and finished it off entirely. This all happened over the course of a year.

Oh shit I'll definitely have a look thanks. Luckily there's no leakage on my wheels yet, but if this kid responds I'll have to take a look at them.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:44 pm**

Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:31 pm
Huckleberry wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:29 pm

Going off of this, you can save some loot by finding C6Z manifolds and midpipes. Your cam selection would need to keep those manifolds in mind.

I would use Trend 3/8" pushrods. They fit and are my go-to for any LS build. Dual valve springs aren't necessary as long as the cam's lobe design doesn't require insane seat pressures. You could easily go with a PAC 1218 or PSI 1511. The 3/8" pushrods will help keep everything stable at higher RPMs.

The LS7 clutch is cheap and should handle a bit of power. If you start cresting the 450 mark, I would step up the clutch to either a Monster Level 2, Mantic ER 2, or Diamond Stage 2.
Are the Trend PR's tapered? I didn't think you could fit 3/8 PR's without clearancing the heads?

Dual springs help a bit with piece of mind IMO, but indeed overkill on a lower lift cam.

They are tapered, which helps with the strength. I've run them on three different engines now that all used factory heads without needing any additional clearancing.

I do run dual springs on my GTO, but I have run PAC 1218s in the past. Most of the beehive fears stem from the Comp 918 nightmare from the mid-2000s. You have to figure that GM has been running beehives in millions of engines since 1997. As long as the ramp rates are kept in check on the camshaft lobes, the beehive spring will be fine. Just like anything else, there isn't a set way to go about it. Different configurations call for different parts. I just don't want someone to select a dual valve spring with seat pressures much higher than they need.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:46 pm**

Huckleberry wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:44 pm
Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:31 pm
Are the Trend PR's tapered? I didn't think you could fit 3/8 PR's without clearancing the heads?

Dual springs help a bit with piece of mind IMO, but indeed overkill on a lower lift cam.
They are tapered, which helps with the strength. I've run them on three different engines now that all used factory heads without needing any additional clearancing.

I do run dual springs on my GTO, but I have run PAC 1218s in the past. Most of the beehive fears stem from the Comp 918 nightmare from the mid-2000s. You have to figure that GM has been running beehives in millions of engines since 1997. As long as the ramp rates are kept in check on the camshaft lobes, the beehive spring will be fine. Just like anything else, there isn't a set way to go about it. Different configurations call for different parts. I just don't want someone to select a dual valve spring with seat pressures much higher than they need.

All excellent points. Are the Trend PR's pricey? Manton tapered PR's were really pricey when I was building my car, so I went :scrooge:

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:51 pm**

Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:46 pm
Huckleberry wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:44 pm

They are tapered, which helps with the strength. I've run them on three different engines now that all used factory heads without needing any additional clearancing.

I do run dual springs on my GTO, but I have run PAC 1218s in the past. Most of the beehive fears stem from the Comp 918 nightmare from the mid-2000s. You have to figure that GM has been running beehives in millions of engines since 1997. As long as the ramp rates are kept in check on the camshaft lobes, the beehive spring will be fine. Just like anything else, there isn't a set way to go about it. Different configurations call for different parts. I just don't want someone to select a dual valve spring with seat pressures much higher than they need.
All excellent points. Are the Trend PR's pricey? Manton tapered PR's were really pricey when I was building my car, so I went

The last set I got a couple years ago were like $90. I just call them up and give them the size I need.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 3:10 pm**

CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:21 pm
Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:12 pm

4 rears? Not speedlines huh? I got a full set of Speedlines from a local guy for $250 because he just wanted em gone. I sold the 2 fronts to Griff and found 2 rears later.
If they're just regular wheels and you wanna run squares I'd say go for it. If they're speedlines or even Alcoas, jump on them shits with the quickness baw
Yeah no they're just the polished five spokes. Rears don't rub anything on the front right? I figure if I might need new tires next season anyways it might look a little better too, but I've never seen these 18s in front I have no idea if it'll look lame.

The C5 is great in that you can fit those rear 18" speedlines on all 4 corners with zero mods and even run a 315 and it won't rub. :melon:

is running a square 285 setup, I'm running 315 square. It sticks out this much. I DGAF because racecar

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 3:34 pm**

Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 3:10 pm
CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:21 pm

Yeah no they're just the polished five spokes. Rears don't rub anything on the front right? I figure if I might need new tires next season anyways it might look a little better too, but I've never seen these 18s in front I have no idea if it'll look lame.
The C5 is great in that you can fit those rear 18" speedlines on all 4 corners with zero mods and even run a 315 and it won't rub. is running a square 285 setup, I'm running 315 square. It sticks out this much. I DGAF because racecar

I just want some low and flush fit with rotatability. I don't track it I just want it to look better on the cheap.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:07 pm**

CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 3:34 pm
I just want some low and flush fit with rotatability. I don't track it I just want it to look better on the cheap.

See if

has some side profile pictures of his 285s on his. It's likely flush. A common size would be the 275 probably. My 315s likely stick out a bit past the edge of the rim lip.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:12 pm**

Huckleberry wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:51 pm
Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 2:46 pm
All excellent points. Are the Trend PR's pricey? Manton tapered PR's were really pricey when I was building my car, so I went
The last set I got a couple years ago were like $90. I just call them up and give them the size I need.

I might consider this. I've got some valvetrain noise that I think is due to my valvesprings being overkill plus spaghetti PR's. A better set of PR's and springs more fit for my cam (max lift of .614, so there should be beehives that work) might take care of the noise AND have a bit of an impact on performance.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:19 pm**

Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:07 pm
CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 3:34 pm
I just want some low and flush fit with rotatability. I don't track it I just want it to look better on the cheap.
See if has some side profile pictures of his 285s on his. It's likely flush. A common size would be the 275 probably. My 315s likely stick out a bit past the edge of the rim lip.

The dude lives over an hour away but I'll probably find time to go grab them next week anyways. Also tires are :rage:

expensive, but the hat time I bought tires I got closeout 17" PSS

Just went out to roll my windows down. My car needs to come down like two inches :rage:

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:43 pm**

CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:19 pm
Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:07 pm

See if has some side profile pictures of his 285s on his. It's likely flush. A common size would be the 275 probably. My 315s likely stick out a bit past the edge of the rim lip.
The dude lives over an hour away but I'll probably find time to go grab them next week anyways. Also tires are expensive, but the hat time I bought tires I got closeout 17" PSS

Just went out to roll my windows down. My car needs to come down like two inches

Lowering can and will drastically impact ride quality and scraping. I'd say you have an inch at most before it's really hard to drive.

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:48 pm**

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:50 pm**

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:50 pm**

#hellaflush

Posted: **Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:50 pm**

Melon wrote: ↑Thu Aug 15, 2019 4:48 pm

That's an epic photo there.

DFD

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