Northern 4R Adventures

[ChrisoftheNorth]

The premium audio is kinda bullshit, there’s 2 levels of premium audio. One comes with a subwoofer, one doesn’t.

I did the 12 Volt Solution remote start on my 4R and my exs Highlander, the poverty kits using OEM remotes. Cheap and super simple plug and play install. The only down side is the range is limited to OEM remote distances, and it turns off when a door is opened.

I'm debating how much I need remote start. We'll see how this winter goes, but I like the 12Volt Solution option using the factory remote.

Did you do anything to improve the audio? Mine doesn't have a subwoofer, and I also don't want one for space reasons. It's listed as "Premium Audio" on the window sticker, but it's really not great. I honestly preferred the crappy system in the Cucktrek.

Wondering if a simple speaker upgrade would help? I'm really not interested in tearing the thing up to add amps and stuff. Not THAT important to me.

[Dbest]

Check out OEM+ audio or taco tunes

The premium audio is kinda bullshit, there’s 2 levels of premium audio. One comes with a subwoofer, one doesn’t.

I did the 12 Volt Solution remote start on my 4R and my exs Highlander, the poverty kits using OEM remotes. Cheap and super simple plug and play install. The only down side is the range is limited to OEM remote distances, and it turns off when a door is opened.

I'm debating how much I need remote start. We'll see how this winter goes, but I like the 12Volt Solution option using the factory remote.

Did you do anything to improve the audio? Mine doesn't have a subwoofer, and I also don't want one for space reasons. It's listed as "Premium Audio" on the window sticker, but it's really not great. I honestly preferred the crappy system in the Cucktrek.

Wondering if a simple speaker upgrade would help? I'm really not interested in tearing the thing up to add amps and stuff. Not THAT important to me.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Check out OEM+ audio or taco tunes

I'm debating how much I need remote start. We'll see how this winter goes, but I like the 12Volt Solution option using the factory remote.

Did you do anything to improve the audio? Mine doesn't have a subwoofer, and I also don't want one for space reasons. It's listed as "Premium Audio" on the window sticker, but it's really not great. I honestly preferred the crappy system in the Cucktrek.

Wondering if a simple speaker upgrade would help? I'm really not interested in tearing the thing up to add amps and stuff. Not THAT important to me.

https://oemaudioplus.com/product/toyota ... -upgrades/



I wonder if just replacing the speakers provides much improvement?

[ChrisoftheNorth]

https://oemaudioplus.com/product/toyota ... -upgrades/



I wonder if just replacing the speakers provides much improvement?

It does. OEM+ Audio is legit.

Good to know. I might pop for the speaker upgrade.

[Dbest]

I don’t have any first hand experience with OEM+ but they have a fantastic reputation.

[fledonfoot]

It does. OEM+ Audio is legit.

Good to know. I might pop for the speaker upgrade.

I ordered several of their kits for inventory vehicles back in the day. Plug and play drop in installs and a phenomenal upgrade.

Toyota audio is beyond shitty.

[D Griff]

Only issue I see with this is that it's pretty difficult to pull all of the door panels off and not have them then rattle for the rest of the life of the vehicle, IMO. I think I would rather have shit audio quality than buzzes and rattles. Maybe it's less of a thing with a brand new car + 'yota build quality

[CaleDeRoo]

Only issue I see with this is that it's pretty difficult to pull all of the door panels off and not have them then rattle for the rest of the life of the vehicle, IMO. I think I would rather have shit audio quality than buzzes and rattles. Maybe it's less of a thing with a brand new car + 'yota build quality

Initial build quality makes a huge difference. I couldn't believe how tightly everything in the dash of my S4 was this summer when I replaced the radio and in dash cup holder. I was texting my friend about it, thinking it had never been apart before but he had it out twice at least. It SUCKED taking that shit apart, but the tight tolerance makes a big difference when it goes back together.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Only issue I see with this is that it's pretty difficult to pull all of the door panels off and not have them then rattle for the rest of the life of the vehicle, IMO. I think I would rather have shit audio quality than buzzes and rattles. Maybe it's less of a thing with a brand new car + 'yota build quality

This is absolutely my biggest concern. I've never been able to pull door panels off and put them back on as solidly as the factory. Especially with the 4R that I'm simply by how well put together it is. It's easily the tightest assembled vehicle I've ever had. The Japanese dudes that specialize in installing the door panels are far better than I could ever be, and I don't want to undo their fantastic work.

But the audio is bad. I'm pretty forgiving, but this thing really pushes my tolerance. My plan is to live with it for as long as I can...maybe I'll just get used to it.

I honestly don't want to touch the thing. I don't even want to install a plug and play remote start. The rugged bulletproof appeal is only compromised with non-OEM mods.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Only issue I see with this is that it's pretty difficult to pull all of the door panels off and not have them then rattle for the rest of the life of the vehicle, IMO. I think I would rather have shit audio quality than buzzes and rattles. Maybe it's less of a thing with a brand new car + 'yota build quality

Initial build quality makes a huge difference. I couldn't believe how tightly everything in the dash of my S4 was this summer when I replaced the radio and in dash cup holder. I was texting my friend about it, thinking it had never been apart before but he had it out twice at least. It SUCKED taking that shit apart, but the tight tolerance makes a big difference when it goes back together.

Assuming you can actually put it back together again properly. Tight tolerances usually make it pretty difficult to assemble.

[D Griff]

Only issue I see with this is that it's pretty difficult to pull all of the door panels off and not have them then rattle for the rest of the life of the vehicle, IMO. I think I would rather have shit audio quality than buzzes and rattles. Maybe it's less of a thing with a brand new car + 'yota build quality

This is absolutely my biggest concern. I've never been able to pull door panels off and put them back on as solidly as the factory. Especially with the 4R that I'm simply by how well put together it is. It's easily the tightest assembled vehicle I've ever had. The Japanese dudes that specialize in installing the door panels are far better than I could ever be, and I don't want to undo their fantastic work.

But the audio is bad. I'm pretty forgiving, but this thing really pushes my tolerance. My plan is to live with it for as long as I can...maybe I'll just get used to it.

I honestly don't want to touch the thing. I don't even want to install a plug and play remote start. The rugged bulletproof appeal is only compromised with non-OEM mods.

The 328i's audio is not great either... you do get used to it to a degree. I imagine it's still a lot better than the 'yota though, the Japanese have never really been at the forefront of audio quality.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

This is absolutely my biggest concern. I've never been able to pull door panels off and put them back on as solidly as the factory. Especially with the 4R that I'm simply by how well put together it is. It's easily the tightest assembled vehicle I've ever had. The Japanese dudes that specialize in installing the door panels are far better than I could ever be, and I don't want to undo their fantastic work.

But the audio is bad. I'm pretty forgiving, but this thing really pushes my tolerance. My plan is to live with it for as long as I can...maybe I'll just get used to it.

I honestly don't want to touch the thing. I don't even want to install a plug and play remote start. The rugged bulletproof appeal is only compromised with non-OEM mods.

The 328i's audio is not great either... you do get used to it to a degree. I imagine it's still a lot better than the 'yota though, the Japanese have never really been at the forefront of audio quality.

The problem is the mid-bass/bass response. It's REALLY muddy and peaky. There's certain mid-bass frequencies that really boom, and if a song has a lot of it, makes it almost unlistenable for me. I can turn the bass all the way down and it still does it while having no other bass. Turning up the bass results in minimum real bass and just boosts the mid bass boominess. It's bad.

I'm a 60 year old man in a 36 year old body, and one of my top 5 all time favorite songs is Lowdown by Boz Scaggs. It's has the most epic bass line that makes the song. You can't hear it at all in the 4R, it's gone. But some low frequencies will randomly boom and that just ruins it.

The Cucktrek had the base system, and was incredibly neutral. Playing Lowdown in that and the bass line just ripped with impressive clarity. All I want out of a sound system is neutral response. I don't want any frequencies shouting more than others.

I don't spend much time in the car and when I am I'm usually with and we're not actively listening to music, so it's probably something I can just learn to live with.

[D Griff]

The 328i's audio is not great either... you do get used to it to a degree. I imagine it's still a lot better than the 'yota though, the Japanese have never really been at the forefront of audio quality.

The problem is the mid-bass/bass response. It's REALLY muddy and peaky. There's certain mid-bass frequencies that really boom, and if a song has a lot of it, makes it almost unlistenable for me. I can turn the bass all the way down and it still does it while having no other bass. Turning up the bass results in minimum real bass and just boosts the mid bass boominess. It's bad.

I'm a 60 year old man in a 36 year old body, and one of my top 5 all time favorite songs is Lowdown by Boz Scaggs. It's has the most epic bass line that makes the song. You can't hear it at all in the 4R, it's gone. But some low frequencies will randomly boom and that just ruins it.

The Cucktrek had the base system, and was incredibly neutral. Playing Lowdown in that and the bass line just ripped with impressive clarity. All I want out of a sound system is neutral response. I don't want any frequencies shouting more than others.

I don't spend much time in the car and when I am I'm usually with and we're not actively listening to music, so it's probably something I can just learn to live with.

It's a good song

Sounds like it's some kind of resonant frequency of the cabin. I wonder if it would be improved by lowering the rear window or something. Not really an option in the winter, but maybe worth waiting a bit to try.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

The problem is the mid-bass/bass response. It's REALLY muddy and peaky. There's certain mid-bass frequencies that really boom, and if a song has a lot of it, makes it almost unlistenable for me. I can turn the bass all the way down and it still does it while having no other bass. Turning up the bass results in minimum real bass and just boosts the mid bass boominess. It's bad.

I'm a 60 year old man in a 36 year old body, and one of my top 5 all time favorite songs is Lowdown by Boz Scaggs. It's has the most epic bass line that makes the song. You can't hear it at all in the 4R, it's gone. But some low frequencies will randomly boom and that just ruins it.

The Cucktrek had the base system, and was incredibly neutral. Playing Lowdown in that and the bass line just ripped with impressive clarity. All I want out of a sound system is neutral response. I don't want any frequencies shouting more than others.

I don't spend much time in the car and when I am I'm usually with and we're not actively listening to music, so it's probably something I can just learn to live with.

It's a good song

Sounds like it's some kind of resonant frequency of the cabin. I wonder if it would be improved by lowering the rear window or something. Not really an option in the winter, but maybe worth waiting a bit to try.

Yea, I've read some forum posts from people claiming that just adding sound deadening to the inside of the doors makes a huge difference in audio performance. I think it has something to do with resonant frequency in the doors. But to do that, the door panels have to come off, and then might as well replace the speakers.

Windows down will probably help, but that's only possible for half the year here or so.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

I will say that Toyotas come apart and go back together far easier than any other vehicle I've owned. The Japanese engineer things to be worked on much moreso than zee Germans.

Hopefully better than the Americans too.

My ZR2 had a rattle in the door caused by a wiring harness clip that had too much tolerance and would buzz when the door speakers played any bass. To fix it, I just pulled the door panel out to push some felt adhesive behind the clip, which was at the bottom of the door. Broke 2 christmas tree fasteners and a few tabs just trying to pull the panel out, using the proper trim tool, and not even forcefully. I fixed the rattle, but the door panel rattled every time I closed it after. Was better because it wasn't constant rattle, but still annoying. I didn't care because it was a lease going back soon.

I don't want to go down the rabbit hole of creating 3 new problems to just fix 1.

[max225]

They sort of do but when I was installing a rear locking tail gate wiring harness I broke a clip on a passenger side door sill on a truck that was manufactured within 7 months of me soon that.

Clips break.

Also I thought you didn’t care about stereos ? We talked about many in the mini/cucktrek/C5 etc and you always said why fuck with it now ?

[CaleDeRoo]

They sort of do but when I was installing a rear locking tail gate wiring harness I broke a clip on a passenger side door sill on a truck that was manufactured within 7 months of me soon that.

Clips break.

Also I thought you didn’t care about stereos ? We talked about many in the mini/cucktrek/C5 etc and you always said why fuck with it now ?

He still likes to listen to music, and some of it is made intolerable by the acoustics of the cabin/base audio combination.

[D Griff]

Interestingly I've found my German cars the easiest to take apart and put back together.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

They sort of do but when I was installing a rear locking tail gate wiring harness I broke a clip on a passenger side door sill on a truck that was manufactured within 7 months of me soon that.

Clips break.

Also I thought you didn’t care about stereos ? We talked about many in the mini/cucktrek/C5 etc and you always said why fuck with it now ?

I indeed have a low tolerance for car audio. I think they all suck unless spending big money on a lux car.

Usually, crappy audio is just flat. Not much bass, not much high, crappy fidelity when cranked up. This is all fine to me. It's unoffensive, and it's how the CT, Cucktrek, Silverado, and Volt were.

But the boominess in the 4R just sucks. Certain mid bass frequencies are accentuated that make some songs unlistenable. I actually changed a song from one I liked because it just sounded so bad. And worse like I mentioned above, the boominess actually hides other bass/mid-bass tones that I want to hear. It's just a really bad system, easily the worst I've had of my last 5 new vehicles. I get the impression that it's the base system tuned with more bass or something to make a "Premium audio", which is just a joke. I'd probably like the base system better.

My first step is to just try to get used to it. Since I don't spend much time in the car, I can probably just get used to it. I'll play with the bass/mid EQ adjustments to make it as inoffensive as possible and just live with it. Improving it is a last resort.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

I indeed have a low tolerance for car audio. I think they all suck unless spending big money on a lux car.

Usually, crappy audio is just flat. Not much bass, not much high, crappy fidelity when cranked up. This is all fine to me. It's unoffensive, and it's how the CT, Cucktrek, Silverado, and Volt were.

But the boominess in the 4R just sucks. Certain mid bass frequencies are accentuated that make some songs unlistenable. I actually changed a song from one I liked because it just sounded so bad. And worse like I mentioned above, the boominess actually hides other bass/mid-bass tones that I want to hear. It's just a really bad system, easily the worst I've had of my last 5 new vehicles. I get the impression that it's the base system tuned with more bass or something to make a "Premium audio", which is just a joke. I'd probably like the base system better.

My first step is to just try to get used to it. Since I don't spend much time in the car, I can probably just get used to it. I'll play with the bass/mid EQ adjustments to make it as inoffensive as possible and just live with it. Improving it is a last resort.

Wait, you haven't adjusted the EQ yet?

Oh, I have, but just one the fly while driving. Turning down the bass doesn't help, nor does adjusting the mid. I need to sit in the thing for a while and just play with the EQ I think.

[max225]

They sort of do but when I was installing a rear locking tail gate wiring harness I broke a clip on a passenger side door sill on a truck that was manufactured within 7 months of me soon that.

Clips break.

Also I thought you didn’t care about stereos ? We talked about many in the mini/cucktrek/C5 etc and you always said why fuck with it now ?

I indeed have a low tolerance for car audio. I think they all suck unless spending big money on a lux car.

Usually, crappy audio is just flat. Not much bass, not much high, crappy fidelity when cranked up. This is all fine to me. It's unoffensive, and it's how the CT, Cucktrek, Silverado, and Volt were.

But the boominess in the 4R just sucks. Certain mid bass frequencies are accentuated that make some songs unlistenable. I actually changed a song from one I liked because it just sounded so bad. And worse like I mentioned above, the boominess actually hides other bass/mid-bass tones that I want to hear. It's just a really bad system, easily the worst I've had of my last 5 new vehicles. I get the impression that it's the base system tuned with more bass or something to make a "Premium audio", which is just a joke. I'd probably like the base system better.

My first step is to just try to get used to it. Since I don't spend much time in the car, I can probably just get used to it. I'll play with the bass/mid EQ adjustments to make it as inoffensive as possible and just live with it. Improving it is a last resort.

Yea Toyota stereos aren't the best... Even the JBL in my taco was eh... but it was workable and I just didn't give enough of a F to mess with it even though stereos are actually semi important to me.

I did hear good things about OEM + So you may want to give that a go. However usually it goes beyond just speakers In my experience... its a rabbit hole of "sound deadening, amps, head units etc" once you start you can't stop... and then you're stuck with a $4k stereo...

That said if $795 doesn't bother you that's the route I'd go.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

I indeed have a low tolerance for car audio. I think they all suck unless spending big money on a lux car.

Usually, crappy audio is just flat. Not much bass, not much high, crappy fidelity when cranked up. This is all fine to me. It's unoffensive, and it's how the CT, Cucktrek, Silverado, and Volt were.

But the boominess in the 4R just sucks. Certain mid bass frequencies are accentuated that make some songs unlistenable. I actually changed a song from one I liked because it just sounded so bad. And worse like I mentioned above, the boominess actually hides other bass/mid-bass tones that I want to hear. It's just a really bad system, easily the worst I've had of my last 5 new vehicles. I get the impression that it's the base system tuned with more bass or something to make a "Premium audio", which is just a joke. I'd probably like the base system better.

My first step is to just try to get used to it. Since I don't spend much time in the car, I can probably just get used to it. I'll play with the bass/mid EQ adjustments to make it as inoffensive as possible and just live with it. Improving it is a last resort.

Yea Toyota stereos aren't the best... Even the JBL in my taco was eh... but it was workable and I just didn't give enough of a F to mess with it even though stereos are actually semi important to me.

I did hear good things about OEM + So you may want to give that a go. However usually it goes beyond just speakers In my experience... its a rabbit hole of "sound deadening, amps, head units etc" once you start you can't stop... and then you're stuck with a $4k stereo...

That said if $795 doesn't bother you that's the route I'd go.

The slippery slope concerns me, but tearing into the thing concerns me more. I was really hoping to just leave it be. We'll see how I get used to it.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

The slippery slope concerns me, but tearing into the thing concerns me more. I was really hoping to just leave it be. We'll see how I get used to it.

IMO, it's either do it now (within the first month or two) or forever hold your peace.

You don't keep vehicles long enough to wait any longer than that.

It's 10 degrees outside, peace is being held forever.

[D Griff]

The slippery slope concerns me, but tearing into the thing concerns me more. I was really hoping to just leave it be. We'll see how I get used to it.

IMO, it's either do it now (within the first month or two) or forever hold your peace.

You don't keep vehicles long enough to wait any longer than that.

[D Griff]

I indeed have a low tolerance for car audio. I think they all suck unless spending big money on a lux car.

Usually, crappy audio is just flat. Not much bass, not much high, crappy fidelity when cranked up. This is all fine to me. It's unoffensive, and it's how the CT, Cucktrek, Silverado, and Volt were.

But the boominess in the 4R just sucks. Certain mid bass frequencies are accentuated that make some songs unlistenable. I actually changed a song from one I liked because it just sounded so bad. And worse like I mentioned above, the boominess actually hides other bass/mid-bass tones that I want to hear. It's just a really bad system, easily the worst I've had of my last 5 new vehicles. I get the impression that it's the base system tuned with more bass or something to make a "Premium audio", which is just a joke. I'd probably like the base system better.

My first step is to just try to get used to it. Since I don't spend much time in the car, I can probably just get used to it. I'll play with the bass/mid EQ adjustments to make it as inoffensive as possible and just live with it. Improving it is a last resort.

Yea Toyota stereos aren't the best... Even the JBL in my taco was eh... but it was workable and I just didn't give enough of a F to mess with it even though stereos are actually semi important to me.

I did hear good things about OEM + So you may want to give that a go. However usually it goes beyond just speakers In my experience... its a rabbit hole of "sound deadening, amps, head units etc" once you start you can't stop... and then you're stuck with a $4k stereo...

That said if $795 doesn't bother you that's the route I'd go.

Also Amps make a bigger difference than speakers often times... Even a head unit with built in amp from a decent company would probably sound a lot better. Still, I'd start with speakers if anything, changing out a head unit on a modern vehicle...