DFD

Detroit wrote:I'm so glad that I can just view my car as a vehicle for fun and not competition.

$21k in or whatever and it's pretty damn fun. I was just out bombing some back roads

Melon wrote:Anyone have this issue:

I pull on the handbrake quickly, nothing, goes all the way back with no resistance, does not engage the brake.
I pull slowly, gently but firmly, it will engage about 95% of the time.
Riddle me that.

That is really odd considering it's just a mechanical cable. I can't think of what would cause such a thing to happen.

D Griff wrote:

Melon wrote:Anyone have this issue:

I pull on the handbrake quickly, nothing, goes all the way back with no resistance, does not engage the brake.
I pull slowly, gently but firmly, it will engage about 95% of the time.
Riddle me that.

That is really odd considering it's just a mechanical cable. I can't think of what would cause such a thing to happen.

Only thing I could think of is a loose connection on the cable.

D Griff wrote:

Detroit wrote:I'm so glad that I can just view my car as a vehicle for fun and not competition.

$21k in or whatever and it's pretty damn fun. I was just out bombing some back roads

If I "bomb" a road then I'm doing double or triple+ the speed limit and scared to death that there's going to be a cop around. It's cheap at first but gets expensive in a hurry when your luck runs out... of course you guys don't get tickets so you wouldn't understand.

Well, decided to call Crutchfield before tearing into this shit. He said it probably has to do with the gain pots on the little line level converter. Hopefully that's it and the bezel doesn't shit the bed during that .

troyguitar wrote:

D Griff wrote:

$21k in or whatever and it's pretty damn fun. I was just out bombing some back roads

If I "bomb" a road then I'm doing double or triple+ the speed limit and scared to death that there's going to be a cop around. It's cheap at first but gets expensive in a hurry when your luck runs out... of course you guys don't get tickets so you wouldn't understand.

Shitty tahrs lower the limits to the point where it's fun without breaking the law too bad.

troyguitar wrote:

D Griff wrote:

$21k in or whatever and it's pretty damn fun. I was just out bombing some back roads

If I "bomb" a road then I'm doing double or triple+ the speed limit and scared to death that there's going to be a cop around. It's cheap at first but gets expensive in a hurry when your luck runs out... of course you guys don't get tickets so you wouldn't understand.

4-5/10 in the is still fun to me, but I have more reasonable expectations for life than you.

I haven't been pulled over since I've been a . I'm curious to see if I can talk my way out of tickets now.

Detroit wrote:

troyguitar wrote: If I "bomb" a road then I'm doing double or triple+ the speed limit and scared to death that there's going to be a cop around. It's cheap at first but gets expensive in a hurry when your luck runs out... of course you guys don't get tickets so you wouldn't understand.

Shitty tahrs lower the limits to the point where it's fun without breaking the law too bad.

Dunno, the kumho all seasons still have 95% as much grip as PSS and 90% that of the sport cups. The ticket for 90 in a 35 instead of 100 isn't much different.

I'm finding that I'd rather throw the vibe around on public roads - though I must admit that active handling in competitive mode is a very handy feature for allowing fun at low risk of property damage.

I'm just glad that I'm a shitty driver, so slow is still fun.

troyguitar wrote:

D Griff wrote:

$21k in or whatever and it's pretty damn fun. I was just out bombing some back roads

If I "bomb" a road then I'm doing double or triple+ the speed limit and scared to death that there's going to be a cop around. It's cheap at first but gets expensive in a hurry when your luck runs out... of course you guys don't get tickets so you wouldn't understand.

Eric got a ticket.

BCM was giving me issues again this morning when I was heading to Cars and Coffee.

Melon wrote:BCM was giving me issues again this morning when I was heading to Cars and Coffee.

Grounds?

Tarspin, what you think of dem 3.90's?

Since I'm going to have the ass end of my car completely tore apart, I'm wondering if I should do the upgrade while I'm doing everything else?

Detroit wrote:Tarspin, what you think of dem 3.90's?

Since I'm going to have the ass end of my car completely tore apart, I'm wondering if I should do the upgrade while I'm doing everything else?

In4DetroitGoingFullRetard

All the tire spin.

Barnes93cb wrote:All the tire spin.

Detroit wrote:Tarspin, what you think of dem 3.90's?

Since I'm going to have the ass end of my car completely tore apart, I'm wondering if I should do the upgrade while I'm doing everything else?

The LS2 has a little more powah then the LS1. It's rated at 400/400. Tars are MPS AS3, overall a VERY good product on the C6 in stock widths. There isn't much/any extra tire spinning going on unless one wants that. A clutch drop with throttle and yea, you'll be drawing circles with the back tires but generally not much different than stock. What is different is the rpm ranges at different speeds in different gears. First/second isn't long like with the 3.42s, it's closer ratios have you shifting into third gear by the time you're at 60mph, likely sooner. It's comfortable and feels natural. Shift points where you'd expect them in a normal car. The really exhilarating third gear pulls that get you into go-to-jail speeds now need to happen with the fourth gear. Highway Cruising is 300rpm higher. It's almost exactly the same as stock fifth gear. I find the engine noise to be lower at the new rpm. The engine drones less and throttle response in 6th at 60+mph is now sufficient for passing.

I like the change. I think that the car is better now. I don't think that my life would be much better or worse with stock gears though, and the money I spent was worth it to me because I wanted to treat myself to an upgrade and I needed the diff off for new gaskets anyways. The shop that did my work were very professional and experienced. Zero complaints or issues. It took them longer to do the work then they thought and gear setting is best left to pros. They adjusted multiple times painting the gears and monitoring the contact patch until they were satisfied.

The end result is a car that feels similar in power but spools up faster.

Hopefully that's helpful. If you're willing, a meet up half way (London or Chatham/Kent) can be arranged and you can drive the car around for as long as you want that day to get to know the gears better. I'm sure I'd learn a thing or two and would take it as a mutually beneficial learning experience.

4.10 or

troyguitar wrote:4.10 or

Kindly disagree. 1-2-3 shifts seem tight enough.

Tarspin wrote:

Detroit wrote:Tarspin, what you think of dem 3.90's?

Since I'm going to have the ass end of my car completely tore apart, I'm wondering if I should do the upgrade while I'm doing everything else?

The LS2 has a little more powah then the LS1. It's rated at 400/400. Tars are MPS AS3, overall a VERY good product on the C6 in stock widths. There isn't much/any extra tire spinning going on unless one wants that. A clutch drop with throttle and yea, you'll be drawing circles with the back tires but generally not much different than stock. What is different is the rpm ranges at different speeds in different gears. First/second isn't long like with the 3.42s, it's closer ratios have you shifting into third gear by the time you're at 60mph, likely sooner. It's comfortable and feels natural. Shift points where you'd expect them in a normal car. The really exhilarating third gear pulls that get you into go-to-jail speeds now need to happen with the fourth gear. Highway Cruising is 300rpm higher. It's almost exactly the same as stock fifth gear. I find the engine noise to be lower at the new rpm. The engine drones less and throttle response in 6th at 60+mph is now sufficient for passing.

I like the change. I think that the car is better now. I don't think that my life would be much better or worse with stock gears though, and the money I spent was worth it to me because I wanted to treat myself to an upgrade and I needed the diff off for new gaskets anyways. The shop that did my work were very professional and experienced. Zero complaints or issues. It took them longer to do the work then they thought and gear setting is best left to pros. They adjusted multiple times painting the gears and monitoring the contact patch until they were satisfied.

The end result is a car that feels similar in power but spools up faster.

Hopefully that's helpful. If you're willing, a meet up half way (London or Chatham/Kent) can be arranged and you can drive the car around for as long as you want that day to get to know the gears better. I'm sure I'd learn a thing or two and would take it as a mutually beneficial learning experience.

Wow, great feedback.

In case you missed it, I'm doing heads and cam on my car...with a goal of 450 whp( though likely 430). I'll end up with a medium size cam, which would benefit from a shorter final drive. Since I have to do the clutch, the back end will be out, and a great opportunity to have the diff rebuilt with new gears.

The way you describe the gears is exactly what I'm looking for. I was going to hold off until I got tired of the power bump, but if the cars apart, why wait? I'll have to give some serious thought to 3.90 vs 4.10. I still want to be able to take the car on somewhat long road trips, so I need to keep cruising in mind, which makes me lean toward the 3.90. seems like the right compromise for what I'm looking for.

And thanks for the offer to meet in the middle. Unfortunately, I imagine you'll have the car put away before I find the time to get out there.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

3.90 gives you effectively Z06-ish ratios in 1st through 3rd. Those are still pretty damn long. The Detroit should have 7k if not 7300 or so rev limit with the cam and stuff. Even 4.10 will do over 100 mph in 3rd at 7k.

The difference between 3.42 and 3.90 is more than double that between 3.90 and 4.10.

3.90 and 4.10 will be nearly the same.

Wait why is @Detroitplac changing the gears ?

maxtdi wrote:The difference between 3.42 and 3.90 is more than double that between 3.90 and 4.10.

3.90 and 4.10 will be nearly the same.

Wait why is @Detroitplac changing the gears ?

Full retard "while I'm in there".

Just throwing ideas around.

troyguitar wrote:3.90 gives you effectively Z06-ish ratios in 1st through 3rd. Those are still pretty damn long. The Detroit should have 7k if not 7300 or so rev limit with the cam and stuff. Even 4.10 will do over 100 mph in 3rd at 7k.

Hmm, good point.

Detroit wrote:

maxtdi wrote:The difference between 3.42 and 3.90 is more than double that between 3.90 and 4.10.

3.90 and 4.10 will be nearly the same.

Wait why is @Detroitplac changing the gears ?

Full retard "while I'm in there".

Just throwing ideas around.

But you're not doing the rear end though ?! That type of stuff also has to be done by a shop to the tune of another 2k...