DFD

D Griff wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 1:39 pm

troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 1:33 pm DRM brosteins would be my pick for ~$500

I'm 90% sure I have those C6 belts still, hopefully will get to them tonight.

Thanks, it's no rush really, no way I'm driving the car for at least 2-3 weeks, probably longer.

DRM Brosteins are what I'll get if I I think. Just if it's really worth it.

How are new dampers not "worth it?" Pretty major impact for very little $. New Bilstein shox that some dood had customed valved for C5/C6 for less than $500 is a dealski. Mine are very 5/7.

troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 1:58 pm

D Griff wrote:
Thanks, it's no rush really, no way I'm driving the car for at least 2-3 weeks, probably longer.

DRM Brosteins are what I'll get if I I think. Just if it's really worth it.

If you're going to go back to driving the car a lot, I'd say it would be worth it.

What are you thinking on tires? The new Falken RT660 is supposed to be good but availability is questionable so far.

Oh did that replace the RT615? I haven't seen those on TR yet... was thinking either sticking with the Falken RT615s and bumping up the size to 275 40R17 or staying 255 40 17 and getting the REs... not a ton of options for 17s, but I'd like to stick with 200TW summers. The Falkens have had pretty good durability on track, OK road manners, and grip was pretty good when new, although it could use a bit more tire, particularly in the rear.

Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 2:54 pm

D Griff wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 1:39 pm

Thanks, it's no rush really, no way I'm driving the car for at least 2-3 weeks, probably longer.

DRM Brosteins are what I'll get if I I think. Just if it's really worth it.

How are new dampers not "worth it?" Pretty major impact for very little $. New Bilstein shox that some dood had customed valved for C5/C6 for less than $500 is a dealski. Mine are very 5/7.

Well, I bought the C6Z shocks a little over three years ago, so they could certainly go a little longer, 27K miles on them. I certainly think the Blisteins will be better. I don't really give all that much of a shit about ride quality as doesn't really ride in my car, but it would be nice to have it stay a little more settled when hitting rough patches in a corner.

D Griff wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 3:23 pm

troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 1:58 pm If you're going to go back to driving the car a lot, I'd say it would be worth it.

What are you thinking on tires? The new Falken RT660 is supposed to be good but availability is questionable so far.

Oh did that replace the RT615? I haven't seen those on TR yet... was thinking either sticking with the Falken RT615s and bumping up the size to 275 40R17 or staying 255 40 17 and getting the REs... not a ton of options for 17s, but I'd like to stick with 200TW summers. The Falkens have had pretty good durability on track, OK road manners, and grip was pretty good when new, although it could use a bit more tire, particularly in the rear.

275 square?

Apex wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 4:09 pm

D Griff wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 3:23 pm

Oh did that replace the RT615? I haven't seen those on TR yet... was thinking either sticking with the Falken RT615s and bumping up the size to 275 40R17 or staying 255 40 17 and getting the REs... not a ton of options for 17s, but I'd like to stick with 200TW summers. The Falkens have had pretty good durability on track, OK road manners, and grip was pretty good when new, although it could use a bit more tire, particularly in the rear.

275 square?

whatever I get will be square.

D Griff wrote:

troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 1:58 pm If you're going to go back to driving the car a lot, I'd say it would be worth it.

What are you thinking on tires? The new Falken RT660 is supposed to be good but availability is questionable so far.

Oh did that replace the RT615? I haven't seen those on TR yet... was thinking either sticking with the Falken RT615s and bumping up the size to 275 40R17 or staying 255 40 17 and getting the REs... not a ton of options for 17s, but I'd like to stick with 200TW summers. The Falkens have had pretty good durability on track, OK road manners, and grip was pretty good when new, although it could use a bit more tire, particularly in the rear.

Yeah the 660 is replacing the 615k+ this year but it's a slow rollout.

The hankook RS4 in 255 is probably still what you want since they run super wide and last forever.

troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 4:41 pm

D Griff wrote:
Oh did that replace the RT615? I haven't seen those on TR yet... was thinking either sticking with the Falken RT615s and bumping up the size to 275 40R17 or staying 255 40 17 and getting the REs... not a ton of options for 17s, but I'd like to stick with 200TW summers. The Falkens have had pretty good durability on track, OK road manners, and grip was pretty good when new, although it could use a bit more tire, particularly in the rear.

Yeah the 660 is replacing the 615k+ this year but it's a slow rollout.

The hankook RS4 in 255 is probably still what you want since they run super wide and last forever.

Oh I missed that those are available in 255 but they are... I will probably keep reading up on them a bit. I would prefer to go to something with a bit more grip than what I've had, just hope that they can last 8-10 track days like the Falkens.

I can wait a month or two, so I might see if the new Falkens get released in non- sizes. Only available in right now

The 660 will eventually be available in 255 and 275 /40/17. It's a question of when - last I read the 275 was expected in "summer" so probably too late for you.

It's supposed to be on the same level as the RE71R, according to Falken and the GRM guys.

Other possible options for you would be the 255 Nexen or BFG, both run wide and grip more than the RS4/615.

troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 4:59 pm The 660 will eventually be available in 255 and 275 /40/17. It's a question of when - last I read the 275 was expected in "summer" so probably too late for you.

It's supposed to be on the same level as the RE71R, according to Falken and the GRM guys.

Other possible options for you would be the 255 Nexen or BFG, both run wide and grip more than the RS4/615.

Thanks for the info!

Well, I pulled the shocks yesterday and one of the fronts doesn't rebound at all... so I am going to order the DRMs

Hacked off those stupid pointless ground connectors in favor of just a regular eyelet deal.

Advance shipped me a CarQuest oil pressure sensor when I ordered a Borg Warner unit so I need to return that and find a Borg Warner somewhere as they are allegedly more robust than OEM (I've had three fail...).

I need to get a ball-joint separator tool and press, will see if I can rent/borrow from Advance when I return the OPS. Some of them are stuck in the control arms at the moment.

Well, I spent seven hours trying to extract ball joints yesterday and didn't get a single one out

Looks like I'm not driving this car for longer than I was expecting.

D Griff wrote: ↑Mon Mar 09, 2020 5:49 pm Well, I spent seven hours trying to extract ball joints yesterday and didn't get a single one out

Looks like I'm not driving this car for longer than I was expecting.

sorry man. I have had a few luck style repairs myself. A 5 min belt job on the TSX took me 1.5hrs and I fucked up my arms with 10+ bruises so it looks like I was literally abused or got into an epic street fight and lost.

max225 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 09, 2020 8:11 pm

D Griff wrote: ↑Mon Mar 09, 2020 5:49 pm Well, I spent seven hours trying to extract ball joints yesterday and didn't get a single one out

Looks like I'm not driving this car for longer than I was expecting.

sorry man. I have had a few luck style repairs myself. A 5 min belt job on the TSX took me 1.5hrs and I fucked up my arms with 10+ bruises so it looks like I was literally abused or got into an epic street fight and lost.

Par for the course with working on car shit really... I'm just going to pull off all the control arms and hub assemblies and take them to a shop to have them replaced.

I don't have time for DIY ATM .......it really doesn't pencil for me at all. Brahhoe got trans flushed/new filter, an airbag light fixed, a map light switch fixed, new rear pads and rotors, coolant system pressure checked, new rear suspensions bump stops installed...the old ones were rotted....and a new oil pressure sender the old one was giving me dat constant 80 psi. $1250.

Good news was the oil gauge was not a dashboard issue, which is rare problem spot on the GMT800. That would be been a $900 part.

Damn 1/4 of the cars' value pumped into maintenance.

max225 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 10, 2020 2:38 pm Damn 1/4 of the cars' value pumped into maintenance.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sal ... pe=listing

Truck is worth 8 grand any day with perfect maintenance log since birth. It has 142K miles, epic fluid change records, 8/10 interior, zero rust, straight body. It also has particular value to me as Mexico truck, and I need to keep it reliable. Blends in with the indigenous population yo.

I did plugs and wire a couple of weekends ago, plugs were super clean.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/d/ ... 53120.html

Border crossing spec

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/d/ ... 80581.html

They seem to be around 5k... in somewhat unmolested form but I am with you 5/7 on not getting anything nicer as a gringo during the reverse border crossing

max225 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 10, 2020 3:15 pm https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/d/ ... 53120.html

Border crossing spec

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/d/ ... 80581.html

They seem to be around 5k... in somewhat unmolested form but I am with you 5/7 on not getting anything nicer as a gringo during the reverse border crossing

"Somewhat unmolested" includes 8 owners on Clist and Mexi-Ramz. This is a two owner truck with every single record... and there are lot of records because there has been a lot of maintenance.

Lots of people drive their BMW's and Benzo's in and out of Northern Baja but I'm fairly out on that dawg from road maintenance issues. It's like Philadelphia.

Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Mar 10, 2020 3:42 pm

max225 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 10, 2020 3:15 pm https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/d/ ... 53120.html

Border crossing spec

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/d/ ... 80581.html

They seem to be around 5k... in somewhat unmolested form but I am with you 5/7 on not getting anything nicer as a gringo during the reverse border crossing

"Somewhat unmolested" includes 8 owners on Clist and Mexi-Ramz. This is a two owner truck with every single record... and there are lot of records because there has been a lot of maintenance.

Sounds like you know what you have.

max225 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 10, 2020 3:49 pm

Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Mar 10, 2020 3:42 pm

"Somewhat unmolested" includes 8 owners on Clist and Mexi-Ramz. This is a two owner truck with every single record... and there are lot of records because there has been a lot of maintenance.

Sounds like you know what you have.

Knowing what I have is not sorting through somebody else's mess.

max225 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 10, 2020 2:38 pm Damn 1/4 of the cars' value pumped into maintenance.

I am doing more than than... as it's a toy for me, the value isn't really relevant. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than going out and buying a new Corvette or Tahoe.

The resale value argument only really matters if you constantly, which neither Eric nor I seem to do.

After all I'm doing to the currently I will be in it for $10-11K in mods/maintenance since September 2014, so $2K/year and it's depreciated $1500/year worst case... so $3500/year. So I could be in a Corvette or a leased Jetta, tough choice. Plus the 'vette is cheaper to insure/register.

Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Mar 10, 2020 2:18 pm I don't have time for DIY ATM .......it really doesn't pencil for me at all. Brahhoe got trans flushed/new filter, an airbag light fixed, a map light switch fixed, new rear pads and rotors, coolant system pressure checked, new rear suspensions bump stops installed...the old ones were rotted....and a new oil pressure sender the old one was giving me dat constant 80 psi. $1250.

Good news was the oil gauge was not a dashboard issue, which is rare problem spot on the GMT800. That would be been a $900 part.

Yeah I think it's the same sender unit used in the Corvette... that piece of shit has broken on my car three times now, tried a cheap replacement, then OEM, now I have the most expensive one I could find pretty much (Borg Warner), ready to put in.

I hear you on the time versus DIY... I'm not quite there but closer now with the stupid house but this is more of a fun project thing... it is a lot more enjoyable when you're about how long it takes, just taking my time and getting the car up to snuff after 17 years and 110K miles of use/abuse.

Welcoming myself to the neighborhood with a on jack stands in the car port for two months!