DFD

I have some questions on suspension

It looks like things are pretty well worn out per the below pictures. A lot of the tie rod end and ball joint boots are torn, the control arms have walked a bit... so I'm thinking I need to replace all of these components.

1. Has anyone actually replaced control arm bushings? It seems possible to DIY without a press but maybe a pretty big pain.
2. If not, what is the best course of action? Find somewhere locally that will do this?
3. Should I just buy new control arms? They are not cheap but it's possible my original ones have bent a bit.

I'm thinking of maybe going for delrin bushing but they're pretty what is best here. I think I'll just get Moog tie rod ends and ball joints which seem to hold up to track use fine.

if I'll replace wheel bearings either.

For reference, the car has about 111k on it.

Also anyone know what these little boxes that say Delco are? Something with ABS or the old MAG Ride system?

I'll look closer tomorrow but on my phone that control arm bushing looks ok. You pretty much need to take them to a shop to do delrin properly

Do you have C6 belts already? I'm pretty sure I still have a pair in a box here somewhere.

troyguitar wrote: ↑Sun Feb 23, 2020 8:52 pm I'll look closer tomorrow but on my phone that control arm bushing looks ok. You pretty much need to take them to a shop to do delrin properly

Do you have C6 belts already? I'm pretty sure I still have a pair in a box here somewhere.

I don’t, actually PMed you the other day about the C6 belts, I’ll buy them off you if you can find them.

I need to go back and look more closely at the bushings now that one looked at pictures of bad ones to compare to. My 255 Falkens square setup doesn’t have the most grip so they should be fine in theory. The rubber looks like it’s in fine condition, not sure if the 17 years and mileage justify replacing them.

I don't see any PM but I'll look for the belts, they can only be in a few places.

troyguitar wrote: ↑Sun Feb 23, 2020 9:01 pm I don't see any PM but I'll look for the belts, they can only be in a few places.

Weird... thanks

This reminded me I have to replace my OPS too...

You can do bushings without a press, but it’s something I’d rather pay someone to do. It’s generally not to expensive to have it done. Also anything with a torn boot you’ll want to replace sooner rather than later. The boot themselves generally aren’t serviceable so you’ll need to replace the ballpoint/tie rod end.

4zilch wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 6:22 am You can do bushings without a press, but it’s something I’d rather pay someone to do. It’s generally not to expensive to have it done. Also anything with a torn boot you’ll want to replace sooner rather than later. The boot themselves generally aren’t serviceable so you’ll need to replace the ballpoint/tie rod end.

definitely planning on replacing all of those, they look easy enough to press out fortunately. The bushings you can’t really see so

Leaning towards maybe just leaving them for now.

[user not found] wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 10:54 am

MexicanYarisTK wrote: ↑Tue Sep 17, 2019 5:03 pm

that said, it is the standard engine now, and assuming runs donkey piss 87, mostly driven by people who are so I can't doubt there isn't much to worry about.

Cheap people putting 87 in a FoRS need to be taken out back and given the Old Yeller treatment.

There should be a law where ford tracks the RS to see what kind of fuel grade the owners put and if they go below 91, they should repo it and replace it with a 1.0 eco boost with the same payment. Sounds like a good punishment for them, but hey they can still use 87

MexicanYarisTK wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 12:11 pm

[user not found] wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 10:54 am

Cheap people putting 87 in a FoRS need to be taken out back and given the Old Yeller treatment.

There should be a law where ford tracks the RS to see what kind of fuel grade the owners put and if they go below 91, they should repo it and replace it with a 1.0 eco boost with the same payment. Sounds like a good punishment for them, but hey they can still use 87

My brothers 1.0 runs on 87 yes, but sweet baby Jesus does it turn into a ripper on Shell V-Power 93

[user not found] wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 1:16 pm

CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 12:39 pm

My brothers 1.0 runs on 87 yes, but sweet baby Jesus does it turn into a ripper on Shell V-Power 93

If you hug the barriers on the passenger side you can hear the spool

Are you missing a nut on that leaf?

As for pulling bushings, I did all of mine on the Meowta with a couple of 3 jaw pullers and a drill. Worked for the majority of em.

I am pretty sure 99% of FORS owners bitch about 91 octane... because RACEKARR. I don't foresee them using 87... and besides it will likely run on donkey piss as is.

Acid666 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 2:04 pm Are you missing a nut on that leaf?

As for pulling bushings, I did all of mine on the Meowta with a couple of 3 jaw pullers and a drill. Worked for the majority of em.

Looks like it... the leaf is supposed to have Rubber/leaf/ rubber/nut

max225 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 2:36 pm

Acid666 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 2:04 pm Are you missing a nut on that leaf?

As for pulling bushings, I did all of mine on the Meowta with a couple of 3 jaw pullers and a drill. Worked for the majority of em.

Looks like it... the leaf is supposed to have Rubber/leaf/ rubber/nut

Huh, that is interesting All four of mine are like the one pictured... so naturally I assumed that's the way that they are made. It's pretty difficult to turn those so I didn't realize that was required.

D Griff wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:07 pm

max225 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 2:36 pm

Looks like it... the leaf is supposed to have Rubber/leaf/ rubber/nut

Huh, that is interesting All four of mine are like the one pictured... so naturally I assumed that's the way that they are made. It's pretty difficult to turn those so I didn't realize that was required.

Oh wait, that's the front. I think the front is ok like it is. If you want to adjust it you have to remove all the tension and preload from it. Once you do that I think you can almost turn it by hand.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/at ... lower3.jpg



But I believe the rears should have a nut and washer. That's how I knew how much to adjust mine to lower it. The most common lowering level most people go with is all the way but leave 3 threads in height to the nut.

Acid666 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:16 pm

D Griff wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:07 pm

Huh, that is interesting All four of mine are like the one pictured... so naturally I assumed that's the way that they are made. It's pretty difficult to turn those so I didn't realize that was required.

Oh wait, that's the front. I think the front is ok like it is. If you want to adjust it you have to remove all the tension and preload from it. Once you do that I think you can almost turn it by hand.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/at ... lower3.jpg



But I believe the rears should have a nut and washer. That's how I knew how much to adjust mine to lower it. The most common lowering level most people go with is all the way but leave 3 threads in height to the nut.

I will check the rears, I may be remembering as I never actually changed the height in the

Mine had nut+ washer

Can confirm my rears have a bushing/washer and a nut. Weird.

D Griff wrote:Can confirm my rears have a bushing/washer and a nut. Weird.

Nothing weird, the front leaf has a threaded insert.

troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 1:18 pm

D Griff wrote:Can confirm my rears have a bushing/washer and a nut. Weird.

Nothing weird, the front leaf has a threaded insert.

Other folks on here seemed to think all four corners had the nuts... mine certainly hasn't had them in my ownershit.

Ordered a bunch of parts today. Looked at the bushings again and they really do look fine, so I'm passing on those. Wheel bearings seem fine as well.

I bought a new OPS, IM gaskets, all outer tie rods and ball joints, caliper rebuild kits. Debating pulling the trigger on some shocks,

DRM brosteins would be my pick for ~$500

I'm 90% sure I have those C6 belts still, hopefully will get to them tonight.

troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 1:33 pm DRM brosteins would be my pick for ~$500

I'm 90% sure I have those C6 belts still, hopefully will get to them tonight.

Thanks, it's no rush really, no way I'm driving the car for at least 2-3 weeks, probably longer.

DRM Brosteins are what I'll get if I I think. Just if it's really worth it.

D Griff wrote:

troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 1:33 pm DRM brosteins would be my pick for ~$500

I'm 90% sure I have those C6 belts still, hopefully will get to them tonight.

Thanks, it's no rush really, no way I'm driving the car for at least 2-3 weeks, probably longer.

DRM Brosteins are what I'll get if I I think. Just if it's really worth it.

If you're going to go back to driving the car a lot, I'd say it would be worth it.

What are you thinking on tires? The new Falken RT660 is supposed to be good but availability is questionable so far.