Dem bicicletas dos, doe.

[Johnny_P]

I should probably just get an Emonda and be done with it. They look bomb. And Trek has been great to me in the past.

I can't even find one to test ride.

Dang. Try calling around to the Philly stores?

[Johnny_P]

Dang. Try calling around to the Philly stores?

I had one of the Trek stores do a regional search a few months ago, and there was nothing. Apparently with Trek dealers, they can do "dealer trades" essentially.

I'm not in a rush, I'm really not in the mood to blow a fat wad on a new bike right now. I've still gotta pay for the railing on the porch to be done (a little terrified to find out how much material costs have gone up, I'll find out Saturday morning), I should also get some fence work done on the backyard (move a gate and install a double gate), and I need to get the R53 aligned. I've got things I can put that money towards.

I'll just keep greasing the bottom bracket on the CAAD every 1000-1200 miles or so. I last had it redone at the end of July - which was 1200 miles ago. It just started making noise again, but thankfully only when I'm out of the saddle for now.

That’s annoying about the bottom bracket. I guess over time the frame opens up a bit? Is it cracked at all down there?

Word from my friends are the local Philly trek stores can get bikes with a short waiting period.

[D Griff]

I'm thinkin I should just follow your and Troy's footsteps and just

I don't know why I was so this morning about it, it was remarkably gross though.

Find some middle ground?

Not sure why it's gotta be or Zilspec.

I keep my stuff clean because I'm anal retentive and like clean things that don't creak and squeak. I also believe in taking care of my stuff - aside from the dented top tube, my CAAD10 looks incredible for a nearly 10 year old bike that's been ridden very hard. Letting sweat and grime sit on the paint long term just leads to bearing and finish (and structural, if a metal frame) issues.



Also I reuse the quick links, have done so for years. Chain gets pulled and soaked in mineral spirits to degrease/degrime, and then I pull it through a rag to clean, and relube with Boeshield T9. Cassette also gets flossed with an old rag and simple green, and maybe agitated with a brush. It's been my method for years now.

As far as a deep clean, that's an annual thing, unless I happened to ride in some really nasty conditions (Vermont Overland, I'm looking at you).

For sure. I can't imagine I will ever let it go, as I am one to take good care of my stuff as well. The middle ground is good. It usually doesn't get all hat dirty after rides as it tends to be nice here. I was just ranty yesterday because I was astounded at how gross the roads were and made me and my stuff. I think it just rained so much that a bunch of grime washed into the roads.

On the flip, this morning was absolutely beautiful. I've been kind of slow the past couple of days I probably just need to rest up a bit, I'll be out of town sans bike this weekend, so that should do the trick.

[D Griff]

I'm thinkin I should just follow your and Troy's footsteps and just

I don't know why I was so this morning about it, it was remarkably gross though.

5 minutes with a hose and chain lube gets you 90% of the job done. I hate looking at the bike super filthy and especially hate hearing the chain/gears be crunchy while I pedal, so I'm with you on that... but at the same time, I lived on my bike from like age 5 to 15 and maybe cleaned that thing once a year. Nothing ever failed.

It is how well my Raleigh works to be honest, it is from 1984... I replaced all of the cables, shifters, brake levers, bar tape, seat post, and saddle because I wanted to, but everything always worked fine. I haven't really done anything else with it but clean it up and lube it up once in a while and it just works. I've ridden it 4-5K miles since January of 2020. I know the chain is at best from the 90s.

That said, it does need a bit of TLC, the bottom bracket/cranks have some play in them side to side that is getting worse. I'm torn between a 1x Brifter build with it for fun or just a bottom bracket service and leave well enough alone.

[troyguitar]

You could do a 1x8 setup for like $200 all-in and see some massive ease-of-use improvements.

My R2000 Claris 1x8 setup with the aliexpress crank on the Domane is perfect, as was the 3x8 Claris on my old Motobecane.

I kind of want to sell my carbon bike at this point, it's not faster - at least not with my weak ass pedaling it. I'd rather work on some random cheaper projects instead

[D Griff]

You could do a 1x8 setup for like $200 all-in and see some massive ease-of-use improvements.

My R2000 Claris 1x8 setup with the aliexpress crank on the Domane is perfect, as was the 3x8 Claris on my old Motobecane.

I kind of want to sell my carbon bike at this point, it's not faster - at least not with my weak ass pedaling it. I'd rather work on some random cheaper projects instead

Yeah I think that if you have pretty good position/ergonomics/gearing you can go plenty fast on most frames. Aero/weight only make like a 10% difference at the most. 10% if massive if you are a pro and even for me it is a big difference that I care about, but it is less than most people would lead you to believe. Cycling in general is too obsessed with gear IMO, ride whatcha got/like, you can be pretty fast on anything.

[Johnny_P]

That’s annoying about the bottom bracket. I guess over time the frame opens up a bit? Is it cracked at all down there?

Word from my friends are the local Philly trek stores can get bikes with a short waiting period.

No cracks, but there's enough tolerance in the shell that once the grease gets moved around/pushed out, a ticking develops under load. Starts off innocently enough (right now, it's only under out of the saddle efforts after things warm up), but graduates into a tick with every pedal stroke. That's when I start to lose my mind.

I'd like to just test ride a 56 and a 58 Emonda, which I can't do. I'm not ready to order anything yet.

Doylestown has an SL6 Disc Pro 56
Cherry Hill has a 56 and 58
Phila Center City and Keswick Cycle University City have SL5 58’s

[coogles]

BG Indy has a 58cm Emonda ALR 5 disc and a 58cm SL 5. They have some Emonda SL 6 eTaps too, but not any 58s.

[D Griff]

Yeah I think that if you have pretty good position/ergonomics/gearing you can go plenty fast on most frames. Aero/weight only make like a 10% difference at the most. 10% if massive if you are a pro and even for me it is a big difference that I care about, but it is less than most people would lead you to believe. Cycling in general is too obsessed with gear IMO, ride whatcha got/like, you can be pretty fast on anything.

Well, aero becomes exponentially more effective the faster you go.

If you’re not going that fast, aero gear isn’t gonna do much.

A large part of me enjoys going faster than others on old and outdated gear. Really catches people off guard.

100%

My most satisfying KOMs ever were the few I picked up on my steel 12 speed

Not going to lie, the big reason I want to build that bike out a bit is for cozier/more ergonomic commuting, but a second one is definitely to use it more on group rides and drop dentists on Italian carbon bikes.

[troyguitar]

Yeah I think that if you have pretty good position/ergonomics/gearing you can go plenty fast on most frames. Aero/weight only make like a 10% difference at the most. 10% if massive if you are a pro and even for me it is a big difference that I care about, but it is less than most people would lead you to believe. Cycling in general is too obsessed with gear IMO, ride whatcha got/like, you can be pretty fast on anything.

Well, aero becomes exponentially more effective the faster you go.

If you’re not going that fast, aero gear isn’t gonna do much.

Drag reduction should have a very similar effect at normal 15-25 mph cycling speeds. If you could actually maintain 60+ mph then yeah the effect is much larger. A 10% drag reduction should be good for a ~3% speed increase anywhere in the 100 to 1000 watt power range.

[troyguitar]

They make lightweight aero wheels.

Even my cheapass set is 1600g and the set I would have bought in hindsight is like 1400, pretty light for wide tubeless disc brake from China.

[fledonfoot]

Doylestown has an SL6 Disc Pro 56
Cherry Hill has a 56 and 58
Phila Center City and Keswick Cycle University City have SL5 58’s

Thanks dude.

Might need to take a field trip to Cherry Hill.

Guy’s is technically a Trek dealer but they haven’t been able to get much in stock.

The people at trek cherry hill are awesome. I literally walked in unannounced with the Ripmo frame and asked them to press the headset cups and they took it right back and knocked it out. I also ended up buying a set of tubeless valve stems, a hip pack, a new multi tool, a few odds and ends, and they threw me a $15 water bottle at no charge.

I was in there a week before I ordered the Ripmo for a couple of little parts, and was shooting the shit about bikes with the shop manager. I mentioned I’d backed out of the Ripmo order and I was bummed about it and probably shouldn’t have.
When I was walking out with the frame, he was coming in from the parking lot and recognized me, saw me holding it and said “holy shit, you got one! I saw the frame back there and was telling the guys about the conversation we had last week and that if you’d have seen this frame here last week you’d have freaked out”

Decent people there.

[D Griff]

I've heard great things about the Trek store here as well. They offer a lifetime tube as well which is

[coogles]

I rode the Emonda SL6 eTap today for...reasons. No idea why. Second pass with the Rival eTap group was really nice actually. Not sure why I didn't like it the first time around, but it's snappy and intuitive once you adjust to it.

It's not even a full pound lighter than my bike, but I'd guess all of that weight difference is in the wheelset. Felt way snappier...makes me want to put some carbon Hunts or similar on mine, despite that being a total waste of money given how little I'm able to ride.

[D Griff]

I rode the Emonda SL6 eTap today for...reasons. No idea why. Second pass with the Rival eTap group was really nice actually. Not sure why I didn't like it the first time around, but it's snappy and intuitive once you adjust to it.

It's not even a full pound lighter than my bike, but I'd guess all of that weight difference is in the wheelset. Felt way snappier...makes me want to put some carbon Hunts or similar on mine, despite that being a total waste of money given how little I'm able to ride.

Lighter wheels will have one of the biggest impacts on bike feel, certainly something to consider.

Also, don’t be down on how little you’ve ridden the bike. The nice thing is if you want to ride it, you’ve got it.

Ride and enjoy when you get the chance, don’t beat yourself up when you don’t. One day you’ll get that perfect weather, great feeling legs, fast and fun ride and it will be all worth it.

[troyguitar]

Can't you program di2 buttons to do whatever you want? I was thinking that if I got it I would make it like flappy paddles on a car. Up on one hand and down on the other, vs going both ways with both hands.

[coogles]

Can't you program di2 buttons to do whatever you want? I was thinking that if I got it I would make it like flappy paddles on a car. Up on one hand and down on the other, vs going both ways with both hands.

I'm not sure, but I feel like it should be a thing.

You essentially do that with AXS, which is pretty rad.

Right paddle up, left paddle down, both paddles to change the front ring.

[D Griff]

You could do a 1x8 setup for like $200 all-in and see some massive ease-of-use improvements.

My R2000 Claris 1x8 setup with the aliexpress crank on the Domane is perfect, as was the 3x8 Claris on my old Motobecane.

I kind of want to sell my carbon bike at this point, it's not faster - at least not with my weak ass pedaling it. I'd rather work on some random cheaper projects instead

I am looking more into 8 or 9 speed... that is plenty of gears, I'll be able to find the cogs I want though, ideally I would get something like 11-34 or 36. There are some dece hills around here where pushing a 50 28 up might be a challenge.

[troyguitar]

You could do a 1x8 setup for like $200 all-in and see some massive ease-of-use improvements.

My R2000 Claris 1x8 setup with the aliexpress crank on the Domane is perfect, as was the 3x8 Claris on my old Motobecane.

I kind of want to sell my carbon bike at this point, it's not faster - at least not with my weak ass pedaling it. I'd rather work on some random cheaper projects instead

I am looking more into 8 or 9 speed... that is plenty of gears, I'll be able to find the cogs I want though, ideally I would get something like 11-34 or 36. There are some dece hills around here where pushing a 50 28 up might be a challenge.

They have 11-34 for 8 and 9 speed, plus 11-36 for 9 (and 10) speed, all in basic cheapo Shimano standard parts and they work with standard current road derailleurs. R2000/R3000 are both to use and very cheap.

The only reason to go to 10+ speeds IMO is for hydraulic disc brakes.

[D Griff]

They have 11-34 for 8 and 9 speed, plus 11-36 for 9 (and 10) speed, all in basic cheapo Shimano standard parts and they work with standard current road derailleurs. R2000/R3000 are both to use and very cheap.

The only reason to go to 10+ speeds IMO is for hydraulic disc brakes.

Well, TBH, having smaller jumps between gears is nice.

But in terms of pure functionality, the old stuff still works, always will, and as you said, parts are cheap and available.

I did 9 speed Ultegra/105 on my Schwinn, works great.

It is nice, I do enjoy my fancy bike, but I think nine speed is fine for commuter/beer duty.

[troyguitar]

They have 11-34 for 8 and 9 speed, plus 11-36 for 9 (and 10) speed, all in basic cheapo Shimano standard parts and they work with standard current road derailleurs. R2000/R3000 are both to use and very cheap.

The only reason to go to 10+ speeds IMO is for hydraulic disc brakes.

Well, TBH, having smaller jumps between gears is nice.

But in terms of pure functionality, the old stuff still works, always will, and as you said, parts are cheap and available.

I did 9 speed Ultegra/105 on my Schwinn, works great.

I am a weakling and I almost never shift only one gear on the 11 speed bike. 2 or 3 at a time is normal.

The R2000 Claris on my Domane shifts way better than the 105 5700 on the wife's bike.

As usual my experience doesn't match that of anyone else.

[D Griff]

Well, TBH, having smaller jumps between gears is nice.

But in terms of pure functionality, the old stuff still works, always will, and as you said, parts are cheap and available.

I did 9 speed Ultegra/105 on my Schwinn, works great.

I am a weakling and I almost never shift only one gear on the 11 speed bike. 2 or 3 at a time is normal.

The R2000 Claris on my Domane shifts way better than the 105 5700 on the wife's bike.

As usual my experience doesn't match that of anyone else.

My new 105 shifts really well and easily. I too tend to move a couple of gears at once and would say 11-12 isn’t necessary but it is nice. I mean I get by fine on the 2x6 Raleigh that is like 14-26 or something. It’s kind of like more power in a car though, not needed but handy and fun.

[Johnny_P]

Well, TBH, having smaller jumps between gears is nice.

But in terms of pure functionality, the old stuff still works, always will, and as you said, parts are cheap and available.

I did 9 speed Ultegra/105 on my Schwinn, works great.

I am a weakling and I almost never shift only one gear on the 11 speed bike. 2 or 3 at a time is normal.

The R2000 Claris on my Domane shifts way better than the 105 5700 on the wife's bike.

As usual my experience doesn't match that of anyone else.

Shimano road 10 speed stuff kind of felt like shit. They corrected it with 11 speed.

[Johnny_P]

Mountain bike brakes were screaming and had no power last ride. Just ordered new rotors and pads, hopefully that fixes it.

[Johnny_P]

Got the thumbs up for a new MTB from the wife. Going to fix the brakes and then get more serious about selling the Trek.

Finding a replacement might be hard. I think I’d like about 140/120 ish travel on a 29er or 160/140 ish travel on a 27.5.

Hopefully Sram GX / SLX level components.