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Irish
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Have any of you palookas installed Shade Sails?

My backyard abuts a huge cornfield and the wind rips over it like, well....... really fast wind...

A few years back, was having coffee on my deck when my 10 foot umbrella just disappeared...... the wind caught it just right and launched it like 150 feet into the air..... thank god the little girls next door were inside, as it crashed back to earth in their yard .... there had been other wind incidents as well, so I took to basically tying it down to the deck railing and the side of the house...... that worked but the string practically decapitates us if we are not careful....

Anyway I am looking for a low cost solution and I think the triangular sails are the ticket....

Any experience?
Last edited by Irish on Mon May 24, 2021 10:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Irish wrote: Sat May 22, 2021 3:04 pm Have any of you palookas installed Shade Sails?

My backyard abuts a huge cornfield and the wind rips over it like, well....... really fast wind...

A few years back, was having coffee on my deck when my 10 foot umbrella just disappeared...... the wind caught it just right and launched it like 150 feet into the air..... thank god the little girls next door were inside, as it crashed back to earth in theit yard inside.... there had been other wind incidents as well, so I took to basically tying it down to the deck railing and the side of the house...... that worked but the string practically decapitates us if we are not careful....

Anyway I am looking for a low cost solution and I think the triangular sails are the ticket....

Any experience?
I've been thinking about these for our new patio. Haven't pulled the trigger yet, but they seem pretty simple. Obviously the most important part of the job is having solid mounting points, which will likely require some new posts and engineering in a windy area. Wind really rips along our patio too, so it's a big consideration of mine.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Irish
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I am dreading the digging of holes on the bed of shale that lies underneath my property.

I am thinking of pouring concrete slabs (plinthe?) and affixing a metal pole base to it with masonry screws and some form of adhesive in the holes.

I saw a British company website that sells :waxer: hardware and suggests this method.

Other sites/vids suggest up to a 40- 50% hole depth to post length ratio. That would be :ludacris: I'd be looking g at a 6 to 7.5 foot hole ....fuck that...

Even 36inches to get under the frost line is more than I want to tackle really.

What do y'all think about about the slab idea?

Will I get too much heave in the winter?
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Irish wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 2:09 pm I am dreading the digging of holes on the bed of shale that lies underneath my property.

I am thinking of pouring concrete slabs (plinthe?) and affixing a metal pole base to it with masonry screws and some form of adhesive in the holes.

I saw a British company website that sells :waxer: hardware and suggests this method.

Other sites/vids suggest up to a 40- 50% hole depth to post length ratio. That would be :ludacris: I'd be looking g at a 6 to 7.5 foot hole ....fuck that...

Even 36inches to get under the frost line is more than I want to tackle really.

What do y'all think about about the slab idea?

Will I get too much heave in the winter?
Rent a backhoe with an auger or hire it done? I have always been in interested in the shade sail because it solves the same fight I have with every woman........you're making the house dark/claustrophobic/not enough sun etc. So you just remove the sail in the winter. I would thing strong anchor points are a huge issue though, as wind on the sail is going to :fshitup: if it is not.
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Irish wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 2:09 pm I am dreading the digging of holes on the bed of shale that lies underneath my property.

I am thinking of pouring concrete slabs (plinthe?) and affixing a metal pole base to it with masonry screws and some form of adhesive in the holes.

I saw a British company website that sells :waxer: hardware and suggests this method.

Other sites/vids suggest up to a 40- 50% hole depth to post length ratio. That would be :ludacris: I'd be looking g at a 6 to 7.5 foot hole ....fuck that...

Even 36inches to get under the frost line is more than I want to tackle really.

What do y'all think about about the slab idea?

Will I get too much heave in the winter?
What size sail are you looking to install? Would this be a better option?

https://www.costco.com/paragon-modena-a ... 86524.html
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Irish
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Desertbreh wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 2:29 pm
Irish wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 2:09 pm I am dreading the digging of holes on the bed of shale that lies underneath my property.

I am thinking of pouring concrete slabs (plinthe?) and affixing a metal pole base to it with masonry screws and some form of adhesive in the holes.

I saw a British company website that sells :waxer: hardware and suggests this method.

Other sites/vids suggest up to a 40- 50% hole depth to post length ratio. That would be :ludacris: I'd be looking g at a 6 to 7.5 foot hole ....fuck that...

Even 36inches to get under the frost line is more than I want to tackle really.

What do y'all think about about the slab idea?

Will I get too much heave in the winter?
Rent a backhoe with an auger or hire it done? I have always been in interested in the shade sail because it solves the same fight I have with every woman........you're making the house dark/claustrophobic/not enough sun etc. So you just remove the sail in the winter. I would thing strong anchor points are a huge issue though, as wind on the sail is going to :fshitup: if it is not.
I might do this for the pool deck I am thinking about....but I wouldn't hire out for two holes. In floriduh, you could hire day labor outside any home improvement store. Wasn't strictly legal but I always thought of it as a victim less crime as long as one was relatively generous with pay and buying lunch.

Standard tripod augers wont get through the shale. Guy two doors down contracted a fence install and the guys gave up on the auger after a few hours and dug the holes by hand.

I think I am going to go with the slabs with rebar pounded into the ground at angles.
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Detroit wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 2:29 pm
Irish wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 2:09 pm I am dreading the digging of holes on the bed of shale that lies underneath my property.

I am thinking of pouring concrete slabs (plinthe?) and affixing a metal pole base to it with masonry screws and some form of adhesive in the holes.

I saw a British company website that sells :waxer: hardware and suggests this method.

Other sites/vids suggest up to a 40- 50% hole depth to post length ratio. That would be :ludacris: I'd be looking g at a 6 to 7.5 foot hole ....fuck that...

Even 36inches to get under the frost line is more than I want to tackle really.

What do y'all think about about the slab idea?

Will I get too much heave in the winter?
What size sail are you looking to install? Would this be a better option?

https://www.costco.com/paragon-modena-a ... 86524.html
I gave pergolas a lot of thought but I think 2 of the the posts would be obtrusive on my existing 16 x 24" deck.
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Irish wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 9:51 pm
Detroit wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 2:29 pm
What size sail are you looking to install? Would this be a better option?

https://www.costco.com/paragon-modena-a ... 86524.html
I gave pergolas a lot of thought but I think 2 of the the posts would be obtrusive on my existing 16 x 24" deck.
I'm trying to visualize what you're doing, but if sails are the chosen solution, I think pouring concrete pads would be the way. Challenge is how big do you make them? They probably need to be rather sizable since you can't dig down far, and mixing that much concrete is going to suck unless you order a truck, perhaps.

Another thought: are there areas of shale thick enough that you could just anchor into it and maybe just pour concrete on top for added stability?
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:10 pm
Irish wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 9:51 pm

I gave pergolas a lot of thought but I think 2 of the the posts would be obtrusive on my existing 16 x 24" deck.
I'm trying to visualize what you're doing, but if sails are the chosen solution, I think pouring concrete pads would be the way. Challenge is how big do you make them? They probably need to be rather sizable since you can't dig down far, and mixing that much concrete is going to suck unless you order a truck, perhaps.

Another thought: are there areas of shale thick enough that you could just anchor into it and maybe just pour concrete on top for added stability?
I am thinking of 6 inch thick 18 x 18" framed out with 1x6" s . I may have to go smaller on the one side because of the pool. I will drive 4 - 2 foot rebar into the ground with a sledge at angles leaving the top 6 inches to fall into the concrete pour area.
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Irish wrote: Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:46 pm
Detroit wrote: Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:10 pm
I'm trying to visualize what you're doing, but if sails are the chosen solution, I think pouring concrete pads would be the way. Challenge is how big do you make them? They probably need to be rather sizable since you can't dig down far, and mixing that much concrete is going to suck unless you order a truck, perhaps.

Another thought: are there areas of shale thick enough that you could just anchor into it and maybe just pour concrete on top for added stability?
I am thinking of 6 inch thick 18 x 18" framed out with 1x6" s . I may have to go smaller on the one side because of the pool. I will drive 4 - 2 foot rebar into the ground with a sledge at angles leaving the top 6 inches to fall into the concrete pour area.
:notbad: That should be pretty substantial.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Irish wrote: Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:46 pm
Detroit wrote: Fri Jul 16, 2021 1:10 pm
I'm trying to visualize what you're doing, but if sails are the chosen solution, I think pouring concrete pads would be the way. Challenge is how big do you make them? They probably need to be rather sizable since you can't dig down far, and mixing that much concrete is going to suck unless you order a truck, perhaps.

Another thought: are there areas of shale thick enough that you could just anchor into it and maybe just pour concrete on top for added stability?
I am thinking of 6 inch thick 18 x 18" framed out with 1x6" s . I may have to go smaller on the one side because of the pool. I will drive 4 - 2 foot rebar into the ground with a sledge at angles leaving the top 6 inches to fall into the concrete pour area.
:notbad: That should be pretty substantial.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Ugh, doin adult things. Gotta get set up before hurricane season ends because I don't wanna deal with no power again.
I found out I can convert it over to natural gas so I'll likely be doing more research on the exact parts I need. I've got an outlet from the previous homeowner right on my patio that was likely for a bbq pit. Gonna see about opening that valve and being able to run this from it so I don't have to deal with fuel shortages. I could of gone bigger, but I didn't really want to spend much more money and this'll cover most of what I need for just a fridge and some big fans and maybe some other bullshit.

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Acid666 wrote: Mon Sep 13, 2021 9:03 pm Ugh, doin adult things. Gotta get set up before hurricane season ends because I don't wanna deal with no power again.
I found out I can convert it over to natural gas so I'll likely be doing more research on the exact parts I need. I've got an outlet from the previous homeowner right on my patio that was likely for a bbq pit. Gonna see about opening that valve and being able to run this from it so I don't have to deal with fuel shortages. I could of gone bigger, but I didn't really want to spend much more money and this'll cover most of what I need for just a fridge and some big fans and maybe some other bullshit.

:ohdang:

We lost power for 4 days a month ago, and it BLEW since we're on a well which means no water. I've been debating buying a Predator invertor generator after my little 2000w one I take camping saved the day by running both the fridge and the chest freezer in the garage, this one to power the whole house...
https://www.harborfreight.com/8750-watt ... 57480.html

I didn't know they could be converted to natural gas, so I'm quite interested in following along. Not dealing with gasoline would be fantastic.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Tue Sep 14, 2021 10:59 am
Acid666 wrote: Mon Sep 13, 2021 9:03 pm Ugh, doin adult things. Gotta get set up before hurricane season ends because I don't wanna deal with no power again.
I found out I can convert it over to natural gas so I'll likely be doing more research on the exact parts I need. I've got an outlet from the previous homeowner right on my patio that was likely for a bbq pit. Gonna see about opening that valve and being able to run this from it so I don't have to deal with fuel shortages. I could of gone bigger, but I didn't really want to spend much more money and this'll cover most of what I need for just a fridge and some big fans and maybe some other bullshit.

:ohdang:

We lost power for 4 days a month ago, and it BLEW since we're on a well which means no water. I've been debating buying a Predator invertor generator after my little 2000w one I take camping saved the day by running both the fridge and the chest freezer in the garage, this one to power the whole house...
https://www.harborfreight.com/8750-watt ... 57480.html

I didn't know they could be converted to natural gas, so I'm quite interested in following along. Not dealing with gasoline would be fantastic.
Yeah I had to do a double take when I realized you can convert them over to NG. I've been eyeballing this mid level Predator for a while but just waiting to pull the trigger. We borrowed our friend's generator twice in a year so I figured it was time to just do it since it seems like we're getting hit by more hurricanes and weather lately.
So in reading the reviews for this I found a guy that said to be sure to get the natural gas conversion kit. Did some searching and bam, it's relatively cheap and easy. I got a carb swap kit that's only about $50, but I bought a regulator line and an adapter so I think I spent about $68. Some of the other "Full" kits run upwards of about $150-180.

Basically from what I read, all you need is to regulate it and plug it into your airbox, and most allow you to run tri fuel (NG, Gas, and Propane) without having to swap anything to go back and forth between them. I got this kit and I may need to get some other adapters to run off my house line. I haven't looked at it to see what I need but I'll figure it out once the parts are in and then realize what I need to make it work. This kit should just swap right out and work, some of the other kits I've seen simply install a spacer in front of the carb and have natural gas enter there. And you can simply close off the valves to make it work for gas if you want.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082P ... UTF8&psc=1


You can cut thru parts of this video but you'll see the spacer the guy installs that gives the NG injection before the carb, and then he installs a regulator to the frame to connect gas to. From what I'm seeing, all of these NG conversions are literally as simple as that.


Once I get it all figured out I'll definitely post it all up here. Because not having to keep fuel jugs around would be a blessing. Just plug it up and it can run 24/7 instead of just intermittently while I find fuel or conserve it.
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Acid666 wrote: Tue Sep 14, 2021 11:19 am
Detroit wrote: Tue Sep 14, 2021 10:59 am
:ohdang:

We lost power for 4 days a month ago, and it BLEW since we're on a well which means no water. I've been debating buying a Predator invertor generator after my little 2000w one I take camping saved the day by running both the fridge and the chest freezer in the garage, this one to power the whole house...
https://www.harborfreight.com/8750-watt ... 57480.html

I didn't know they could be converted to natural gas, so I'm quite interested in following along. Not dealing with gasoline would be fantastic.
Yeah I had to do a double take when I realized you can convert them over to NG. I've been eyeballing this mid level Predator for a while but just waiting to pull the trigger. We borrowed our friend's generator twice in a year so I figured it was time to just do it since it seems like we're getting hit by more hurricanes and weather lately.
So in reading the reviews for this I found a guy that said to be sure to get the natural gas conversion kit. Did some searching and bam, it's relatively cheap and easy. I got a carb swap kit that's only about $50, but I bought a regulator line and an adapter so I think I spent about $68. Some of the other "Full" kits run upwards of about $150-180.

Basically from what I read, all you need is to regulate it and plug it into your airbox, and most allow you to run tri fuel (NG, Gas, and Propane) without having to swap anything to go back and forth between them. I got this kit and I may need to get some other adapters to run off my house line. I haven't looked at it to see what I need but I'll figure it out once the parts are in and then realize what I need to make it work. This kit should just swap right out and work, some of the other kits I've seen simply install a spacer in front of the carb and have natural gas enter there. And you can simply close off the valves to make it work for gas if you want.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082P ... UTF8&psc=1


You can cut thru parts of this video but you'll see the spacer the guy installs that gives the NG injection before the carb, and then he installs a regulator to the frame to connect gas to. From what I'm seeing, all of these NG conversions are literally as simple as that.


Once I get it all figured out I'll definitely post it all up here. Because not having to keep fuel jugs around would be a blessing. Just plug it up and it can run 24/7 instead of just intermittently while I find fuel or conserve it.
:amazing:

Thanks for posting this, 5/7 will follow along.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Tue Sep 14, 2021 11:38 am :amazing:

Thanks for posting this, 5/7 will follow along.

So the carb came in Friday. Only problem is I don't really have a way to get gas into it. It's got a barbed fitting on it and I couldn't really find any natural gas specific hose that I can run it thru. Then I need to come off of one of my own lines. I have a Tee in the attic that should run to an outside gas outlet where the previous homeowner likely put a gas grill, but when I cracked it open on the ground level nothing came out. In the attic I cracked it and it's definitely got gas.

Going to weigh out some options and then decide if I want to run a new line from the Tee in the attic that should work but doesn't. I might put a quick connect panel in the soffit so I can just connect outside the house when I need it. I was tempted to install a tee on my water heater connection and come off of that but I don't know if it'll pull some of the flow from the pilot light.

Carb replacement is exactly the same, but has the gas regulator and inlet. So I should be able to just gasoline like normal and not have to uninstall anything.



Stock


And installed




Will update when I figure the gas line stuff out. Might have to figure out some fittings and order them, then wait for em to come in.
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I added fake stained glass :tints: to the yuge window in my "office" to keep it light without staring straight at the neighbor's house. This stuff is pretty :neat:

I think I've used some version of this film everywhere I've lived now since 2012. Artscape is the company.

Image
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troyguitar wrote: Sat Oct 02, 2021 3:47 pm I added fake stained glass :tints: to the yuge window in my "office" to keep it light without staring straight at the neighbor's house. This stuff is pretty :neat:

I think I've used some version of this film everywhere I've lived now since 2012. Artscape is the company.

Image
:notbad:
My inlaws used something very similar on the large window on their front door.
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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troyguitar wrote: Sat Oct 02, 2021 3:47 pm I added fake stained glass :tints: to the yuge window in my "office" to keep it light without staring straight at the neighbor's house. This stuff is pretty :neat:

I think I've used some version of this film everywhere I've lived now since 2012. Artscape is the company.

Image
Dang! I gotta look into this for the downstairs bathroom.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Wife unit always needs a project....

She scheduled a kitchen remodeler to come give us estimate today and another on Thursday.... :rolleyes:

I am :disgust: because we will never get our money back and I don't want to stay in this house....

I know the common wisdom is that the kitchen sells the house and I don't disagree that an upgrade would help sell it when the time comes I just don't think we would get the $30-$50K back. We live in a very conservative housing market. At this stage of our lives I would rather invest that money in index funds than polish a turd.
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Irish wrote: Mon Oct 04, 2021 2:29 pm Wife unit always needs a project....

She scheduled a kitchen remodeler to come give us estimate today and another on Thursday.... :rolleyes:

I am :disgust: because we will never get our money back and I don't want to stay in this house....

I know the common wisdom is that the kitchen sells the house and I don't disagree that an upgrade would help sell it when the time comes I just don't think we would get the $30-$50K back. We live in a very conservative housing market. At this stage of our lives I would rather invest that money in index funds than polish a turd.
:tits: :gonna :tits: :doe: :ohwell:
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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Irish wrote: Mon Oct 04, 2021 2:29 pm Wife unit always needs a project....

She scheduled a kitchen remodeler to come give us estimate today and another on Thursday.... :rolleyes:

I am :disgust: because we will never get our money back and I don't want to stay in this house....

I know the common wisdom is that the kitchen sells the house and I don't disagree that an upgrade would help sell it when the time comes I just don't think we would get the $30-$50K back. We live in a very conservative housing market. At this stage of our lives I would rather invest that money in index funds than polish a turd.
It depends on how bad your current kitchen is. If it looks so outdated that people will :nope: as soon as they see it, then a refresh on the cheaper side (since it's not a permanent house) could be worth it.

But to that end, we've done WONDERS with some cabinet enamel and white subway tile. It doesn't always have to be a complete tear apart and rebuild, especially if the cabinets are in decent shape and the layout works.

The kitchen in our house is 40 years old. When we moved in people thought we'd need to gut it, but now after some paint and attention people claims it "looks great". Still should be redone, but it's not a dealbreaker :disgust: thing if we were to list the house.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Mon Oct 04, 2021 4:55 pm
Irish wrote: Mon Oct 04, 2021 2:29 pm Wife unit always needs a project....

She scheduled a kitchen remodeler to come give us estimate today and another on Thursday.... :rolleyes:

I am :disgust: because we will never get our money back and I don't want to stay in this house....

I know the common wisdom is that the kitchen sells the house and I don't disagree that an upgrade would help sell it when the time comes I just don't think we would get the $30-$50K back. We live in a very conservative housing market. At this stage of our lives I would rather invest that money in index funds than polish a turd.
It depends on how bad your current kitchen is. If it looks so outdated that people will :nope: as soon as they see it, then a refresh on the cheaper side (since it's not a permanent house) could be worth it.

But to that end, we've done WONDERS with some cabinet enamel and white subway tile. It doesn't always have to be a complete tear apart and rebuild, especially if the cabinets are in decent shape and the layout works.

The kitchen in our house is 40 years old. When we moved in people thought we'd need to gut it, but now after some paint and attention people claims it "looks great". Still should be redone, but it's not a dealbreaker :disgust: thing if we were to list the house.
:bruh:
You REALLY have to update your Minis Tirith bunker thread.
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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wap wrote: Mon Oct 04, 2021 5:10 pm
Detroit wrote: Mon Oct 04, 2021 4:55 pm
It depends on how bad your current kitchen is. If it looks so outdated that people will :nope: as soon as they see it, then a refresh on the cheaper side (since it's not a permanent house) could be worth it.

But to that end, we've done WONDERS with some cabinet enamel and white subway tile. It doesn't always have to be a complete tear apart and rebuild, especially if the cabinets are in decent shape and the layout works.

The kitchen in our house is 40 years old. When we moved in people thought we'd need to gut it, but now after some paint and attention people claims it "looks great". Still should be redone, but it's not a dealbreaker :disgust: thing if we were to list the house.
:bruh:
You REALLY have to update your Minis Tirith bunker thread.
I know. Just need to find the time. Lots of photos to take, uploading, etc.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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wap
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Detroit wrote: Mon Oct 04, 2021 5:14 pm
wap wrote: Mon Oct 04, 2021 5:10 pm
:bruh:
You REALLY have to update your Minis Tirith bunker thread.
I know. Just need to find the time. Lots of photos to take, uploading, etc.
I hear that. I'm in the same position with starting my landscaping thread. Just can't seem to find the time necessary to :doit: :|
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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