Obligatory C5 Thread

[Tar]

I need a proper full clutch flush. It's sticking to the floor more than usual and not going down. I to the Ranger-Acid method too. Shove a tube down as far as I can and push fluid into the master and it'll force all the black shit back up the reservoir.

the ranger-acid method sounds pretty good, I miss my corvette, but don't miss the sticking clutch pedal, I could do ranger method every time I drove it and it would still kind of linger.

[Acid666]

I need a proper full clutch flush. It's sticking to the floor more than usual and not going down. I to the Ranger-Acid method too. Shove a tube down as far as I can and push fluid into the master and it'll force all the black shit back up the reservoir.

the ranger-acid method sounds pretty good, I miss my corvette, but don't miss the sticking clutch pedal, I could do ranger method every time I drove it and it would still kind of linger.

Ranger's method is fucking stupid. It half ass works.
I emptied my reservoir out, look how much more shit I pushed out from the back by shoving a hose about 8" deep into the master cylinder.

[Tar]

the ranger-acid method sounds pretty good, I miss my corvette, but don't miss the sticking clutch pedal, I could do ranger method every time I drove it and it would still kind of linger.

Ranger's method is fucking stupid. It half ass works.
I emptied my reservoir out, look how much more shit I pushed out from the back by shoving a hose about 8" deep into the master cylinder.

, so satisfying!

[CaleDeRoo]

I need a proper full clutch flush. It's sticking to the floor more than usual and not going down. I to the Ranger-Acid method too. Shove a tube down as far as I can and push fluid into the master and it'll force all the black shit back up the reservoir.

The head Corvette tech at the Van Bortel Corvette told me a full flush wouldn't be worth the time over just replacing the slave cylinder. Not sure how true that it but I have a new slave waiting for install regardless.

[D Griff]

I need a proper full clutch flush. It's sticking to the floor more than usual and not going down. I to the Ranger-Acid method too. Shove a tube down as far as I can and push fluid into the master and it'll force all the black shit back up the reservoir.

I know it is dumb and a half-assed fix, but this has been going strong for me for about two years now... https://www.lingenfelter.com/PDFdownloa ... 080197.pdf

Someday I'll pull all this apart and take care of it for real.

[Acid666]

I need a proper full clutch flush. It's sticking to the floor more than usual and not going down. I to the Ranger-Acid method too. Shove a tube down as far as I can and push fluid into the master and it'll force all the black shit back up the reservoir.

The head Corvette tech at the Van Bortel Corvette told me a full flush wouldn't be worth the time over just replacing the slave cylinder. Not sure how true that it but I have a new slave waiting for install regardless.

I google foo'd the sticky clutch and read 50/50 on replacing the slave and flushing it out. Honestly, I'd probably just replace the slave while I'm down there and install the remote bleeder. But then it's another case of "while you're in there" ok replacing the clutch. A bag I'm not willing to open because I ain't really got that kinda cash to blow right now

[D Griff]

The head Corvette tech at the Van Bortel Corvette told me a full flush wouldn't be worth the time over just replacing the slave cylinder. Not sure how true that it but I have a new slave waiting for install regardless.

I google foo'd the sticky clutch and read 50/50 on replacing the slave and flushing it out. Honestly, I'd probably just replace the slave while I'm down there and install the remote bleeder. But then it's another case of "while you're in there" ok replacing the clutch. A bag I'm not willing to open because I ain't really got that kinda cash to blow right now

That is my whole thing... it's a large bag of cash/time worms... I basically would like to rebuild the diff with 4.10, replace the clutch, add the remote bleeder, but that is all going to be like $4K and none of it is 100% necessary at this point, hence the spring bandaid.

[CaleDeRoo]

I google foo'd the sticky clutch and read 50/50 on replacing the slave and flushing it out. Honestly, I'd probably just replace the slave while I'm down there and install the remote bleeder. But then it's another case of "while you're in there" ok replacing the clutch. A bag I'm not willing to open because I ain't really got that kinda cash to blow right now

That is my whole thing... it's a large bag of cash/time worms... I basically would like to rebuild the diff with 4.10, replace the clutch, add the remote bleeder, but that is all going to be like $4K and none of it is 100% necessary at this point, hence the spring bandaid.

Oh I forgot I have the spring as well. I was considering doing 4.10s as well this year.

[D Griff]

That is my whole thing... it's a large bag of cash/time worms... I basically would like to rebuild the diff with 4.10, replace the clutch, add the remote bleeder, but that is all going to be like $4K and none of it is 100% necessary at this point, hence the spring bandaid.

Oh I forgot I have the spring as well. I was considering doing 4.10s as well this year.

Yeah, you turned me onto it originally and everyone made fun of you but I honestly really appreciate it. It saved me approximately $3950

[D Griff]

I drove car and the 4.10 upgrade is like 5.1/7.

[CaleDeRoo]

Oh I forgot I have the spring as well. I was considering doing 4.10s as well this year.

Yeah, you turned me onto it originally and everyone made fun of you but I honestly really appreciate it. It saved me approximately $3950

So much to do and do much lazy at the same time.

[D Griff]

Yeah, you turned me onto it originally and everyone made fun of you but I honestly really appreciate it. It saved me approximately $3950

So much to do and do much lazy at the same time.

is a big part of it... I have the cash and it is depreciating faster than a C5 diff... but pulling the whole car apart just to spend $4K isn't all that compelling

[ChrisoftheNorth]

4.10s transform the car. best mod i did to mine.

[D Griff]

Has anyone replaced a clutch in one of these cars? I think it is time... the ghetto spring + ranger method just ain't doing it and my car has 117k miles. I feel like I may as well just replace the clutch, slave cylinder, and add the remote bleeder. I am still tempted to do 4.10s but I think given my wavering thoughts it is a no.

Curious if the clutch is something I can tackle in the carport over a weekend or I should just at a shop. I figured I'd come here for real info rathr than stuff from internet heroes who say everything is easy...

[Apex]

Has anyone replaced a clutch in one of these cars? I think it is time... the ghetto spring + ranger method just ain't doing it and my car has 117k miles. I feel like I may as well just replace the clutch, slave cylinder, and add the remote bleeder. I am still tempted to do 4.10s but I think given my wavering thoughts it is a no.

Curious if the clutch is something I can tackle in the carport over a weekend or I should just at a shop. I figured I'd come here for real info rathr than stuff from internet heroes who say everything is easy...

If you go the shop route, have them do gears at the same time. Put the to rest and have a beast of a vette for track days.

[Acid666]

Has anyone replaced a clutch in one of these cars? I think it is time... the ghetto spring + ranger method just ain't doing it and my car has 117k miles. I feel like I may as well just replace the clutch, slave cylinder, and add the remote bleeder. I am still tempted to do 4.10s but I think given my wavering thoughts it is a no.

Curious if the clutch is something I can tackle in the carport over a weekend or I should just at a shop. I figured I'd come here for real info rathr than stuff from internet heroes who say everything is easy...

I'm in the same boat. After this last autocross, the clutch is sticking to the floor more than usual. Needs to be properly bled for a full flush. Which means installing a remote bleeder line, which means removing the whole torque tube to get to it. At 85K miles, it also means that if I'm in there, I might as well replace the clutch and the slave cylinder along with installing the bleeding line.
I believe you have to remove the rear diff to get the torque tube out, or at least loosen it up to be able to back the splines out at the front near the engine. So all of it has to come down. So it's a but more of a process than just remove this and it's easy peasy. I plan on doing it myself since I'm in poor man mode as usual, but I haven't calculated the cost of all of the parts. I'm sure I'm missing a "while you're in there part", so I need to dig deeper into that. If I do end up doing it it'll hopefully be a good selling point if I decide to sell it sometime in the near future.

Quick google search brings up this. I dunno about the axle shafts, I'm not aiming to make big power or anything

It is strongly suggested that you replace the hydraulic clutch slave and pilot bearing while you’re in there. And while you’re at it, you might also want to think about replacing the rear axle halfshafts. All of these components can be sourced from suppliers such as Summit Racing Equipment and Corvette Central.

[D Griff]

Has anyone replaced a clutch in one of these cars? I think it is time... the ghetto spring + ranger method just ain't doing it and my car has 117k miles. I feel like I may as well just replace the clutch, slave cylinder, and add the remote bleeder. I am still tempted to do 4.10s but I think given my wavering thoughts it is a no.

Curious if the clutch is something I can tackle in the carport over a weekend or I should just at a shop. I figured I'd come here for real info rathr than stuff from internet heroes who say everything is easy...

If you go the shop route, have them do gears at the same time. Put the to rest and have a beast of a vette for track days.

Thing is, the best place to get the gears done "doesn't do clutch work" so it gets a bit more complicated. It is also like $3K. I am if the 4.10s actually make it better/more fun on track, they definitely do on the street.

All of that out of the way, I like where your head's at and that is likely the answer. The thing is just so fun and I love it. If I keep it, I will likely wind up in something more like a GTI/Si/Mini/FoST when I need a daily again rather than their big brothers, but probably + FoST > FoRS. Maybe I can just on widening the driveway to make three cars less annoying.

[D Griff]

Has anyone replaced a clutch in one of these cars? I think it is time... the ghetto spring + ranger method just ain't doing it and my car has 117k miles. I feel like I may as well just replace the clutch, slave cylinder, and add the remote bleeder. I am still tempted to do 4.10s but I think given my wavering thoughts it is a no.

Curious if the clutch is something I can tackle in the carport over a weekend or I should just at a shop. I figured I'd come here for real info rathr than stuff from internet heroes who say everything is easy...

I'm in the same boat. After this last autocross, the clutch is sticking to the floor more than usual. Needs to be properly bled for a full flush. Which means installing a remote bleeder line, which means removing the whole torque tube to get to it. At 85K miles, it also means that if I'm in there, I might as well replace the clutch and the slave cylinder along with installing the bleeding line.
I believe you have to remove the rear diff to get the torque tube out, or at least loosen it up to be able to back the splines out at the front near the engine. So all of it has to come down. So it's a but more of a process than just remove this and it's easy peasy. I plan on doing it myself since I'm in poor man mode as usual, but I haven't calculated the cost of all of the parts. I'm sure I'm missing a "while you're in there part", so I need to dig deeper into that. If I do end up doing it it'll hopefully be a good selling point if I decide to sell it sometime in the near future.

Quick google search brings up this. I dunno about the axle shafts, I'm not aiming to make big power or anything

It is strongly suggested that you replace the hydraulic clutch slave and pilot bearing while you’re in there. And while you’re at it, you might also want to think about replacing the rear axle halfshafts. All of these components can be sourced from suppliers such as Summit Racing Equipment and Corvette Central.

Yeah it starts to get really expensive when you go full stop on the "while you're in there" approach.

You are a much better mechanic than me and have a garage. This seems like biting off a bit more than I really want to chew. Maybe I will call around some places next week. I need to discuss with and she will likely be kind of at the idea of spending a few Gs on the Corvette, but at the same time... I haven't really spent shit on car stuff other than track fees in a long time.

[Apex]

If you go the shop route, have them do gears at the same time. Put the to rest and have a beast of a vette for track days.

Thing is, the best place to get the gears done "doesn't do clutch work" so it gets a bit more complicated. It is also like $3K. I am if the 4.10s actually make it better/more fun on track, they definitely do on the street.

All of that out of the way, I like where your head's at and that is likely the answer. The thing is just so fun and I love it. If I keep it, I will likely wind up in something more like a GTI/Si/Mini/FoST when I need a daily again rather than their big brothers, but probably + FoST > FoRS. Maybe I can just on widening the driveway to make three cars less annoying.

The shorter geared 911’s I have driven were always fun on track, but they come stock with long autobahn storming gears. Apple pie to bratwurst comparison, but shorter gears are fun.

[Desertbreh]

I'm in the same boat. After this last autocross, the clutch is sticking to the floor more than usual. Needs to be properly bled for a full flush. Which means installing a remote bleeder line, which means removing the whole torque tube to get to it. At 85K miles, it also means that if I'm in there, I might as well replace the clutch and the slave cylinder along with installing the bleeding line.
I believe you have to remove the rear diff to get the torque tube out, or at least loosen it up to be able to back the splines out at the front near the engine. So all of it has to come down. So it's a but more of a process than just remove this and it's easy peasy. I plan on doing it myself since I'm in poor man mode as usual, but I haven't calculated the cost of all of the parts. I'm sure I'm missing a "while you're in there part", so I need to dig deeper into that. If I do end up doing it it'll hopefully be a good selling point if I decide to sell it sometime in the near future.

Quick google search brings up this. I dunno about the axle shafts, I'm not aiming to make big power or anything

Yeah it starts to get really expensive when you go full stop on the "while you're in there" approach.

You are a much better mechanic than me and have a garage. This seems like biting off a bit more than I really want to chew. Maybe I will call around some places next week. I need to discuss with and she will likely be kind of at the idea of spending a few Gs on the Corvette, but at the same time... I haven't really spent shit on car stuff other than track fees in a long time.

I totally understand the "no substitute for gears" thing but at a certain point don't you have to start considering a lower mile C6 Z51 with 80 more hp and a lot less beat on every component?

[ChrisoftheNorth]

I did the clutch on my car, I can't imagine doing it without a lift. I'm sure it's doable, but I wouldn't tackle it in a carport, and it'll certainly be longer than a weekend if you did. The benefit there would be the ability to take the diff to a rear end shop to have the gears done.

I wish you were closer, we could knock it out on my dad's lift in a weekend no problem. Especially since I know these cars so well.

Gears transform the car, but are cost on such a cheap thing. If you ever had desire for more power, I believe it's better to skip all the power shit (headers, heads, cam, etc) and just slap 4.10's in the bitch and call it a day.

That said, you need to drop all the same shit to do the clutch as gears, so the best time to do gears is when it's all apart. That's what prompted me to do the gears in mine.

Another thing, if tearing into the diff to do gears, you should really refresh everything in there. The springs and clutches are probably fried to the point where you don't really have LSD anymore, and there's beefed up pinion bearings and whatnot that are a good upgrade for continued abuse.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Yeah it starts to get really expensive when you go full stop on the "while you're in there" approach.

You are a much better mechanic than me and have a garage. This seems like biting off a bit more than I really want to chew. Maybe I will call around some places next week. I need to discuss with and she will likely be kind of at the idea of spending a few Gs on the Corvette, but at the same time... I haven't really spent shit on car stuff other than track fees in a long time.

I totally understand the "no substitute for gears" thing but at a certain point don't you have to start considering a lower mile C6 Z51 with 80 more hp and a lot less beat on every component?

Then there's the right answer

With itch already flaring up, dumping money into the C5 is a lot of

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Thing is, the best place to get the gears done "doesn't do clutch work" so it gets a bit more complicated. It is also like $3K. I am if the 4.10s actually make it better/more fun on track, they definitely do on the street.

All of that out of the way, I like where your head's at and that is likely the answer. The thing is just so fun and I love it. If I keep it, I will likely wind up in something more like a GTI/Si/Mini/FoST when I need a daily again rather than their big brothers, but probably + FoST > FoRS. Maybe I can just on widening the driveway to make three cars less annoying.

The shorter geared 911’s I have driven were always fun on track, but they come stock with long autobahn storming gears. Apple pie to bratwurst comparison, but shorter gears are fun.

Base C5's have pretty long gears 3.42 when combined with the wide transmission ratios. Shorter gearing has zero downside, other than fuel economy.

[Huckleberry]

Has anyone replaced a clutch in one of these cars? I think it is time... the ghetto spring + ranger method just ain't doing it and my car has 117k miles. I feel like I may as well just replace the clutch, slave cylinder, and add the remote bleeder. I am still tempted to do 4.10s but I think given my wavering thoughts it is a no.

Curious if the clutch is something I can tackle in the carport over a weekend or I should just at a shop. I figured I'd come here for real info rathr than stuff from internet heroes who say everything is easy...

I'm in the same boat. After this last autocross, the clutch is sticking to the floor more than usual. Needs to be properly bled for a full flush. Which means installing a remote bleeder line, which means removing the whole torque tube to get to it. At 85K miles, it also means that if I'm in there, I might as well replace the clutch and the slave cylinder along with installing the bleeding line.
I believe you have to remove the rear diff to get the torque tube out, or at least loosen it up to be able to back the splines out at the front near the engine. So all of it has to come down. So it's a but more of a process than just remove this and it's easy peasy. I plan on doing it myself since I'm in poor man mode as usual, but I haven't calculated the cost of all of the parts. I'm sure I'm missing a "while you're in there part", so I need to dig deeper into that. If I do end up doing it it'll hopefully be a good selling point if I decide to sell it sometime in the near future.

Quick google search brings up this. I dunno about the axle shafts, I'm not aiming to make big power or anything

It is strongly suggested that you replace the hydraulic clutch slave and pilot bearing while you’re in there. And while you’re at it, you might also want to think about replacing the rear axle halfshafts. All of these components can be sourced from suppliers such as Summit Racing Equipment and Corvette Central.

Pilot bearing and rear main seal are always on the list with a clutch job. Also, just get new flywheel bolts from GM or Jegs. They come with the correct sealant on the threads.

[D Griff]

Yeah it starts to get really expensive when you go full stop on the "while you're in there" approach.

You are a much better mechanic than me and have a garage. This seems like biting off a bit more than I really want to chew. Maybe I will call around some places next week. I need to discuss with and she will likely be kind of at the idea of spending a few Gs on the Corvette, but at the same time... I haven't really spent shit on car stuff other than track fees in a long time.

I totally understand the "no substitute for gears" thing but at a certain point don't you have to start considering a lower mile C6 Z51 with 80 more hp and a lot less beat on every component?

This is a very valid point. My friend bought an LS3 C6 with Z51 pack and 28k miles for like $23000. If I could sell the C5 for $11K or so plus spending $4K on it, it is getting dangerously close.

After the long circle jerk of virtual tire kicking, purchasing another Corvette would be rather funny. Fact is they are hard to beat for what I do with my car. It would involve a bit of work but I think most of the stuff I've done (suspension, seats, exhaust, trailer hitch) could swap over to.

I also feel like would be more in support of a shiny new thing for $25K than sinking $4K+ into a car she already thinks is a POS.