Desertbreh wrote: ↑Fri Sep 11, 2020 1:10 pm
[user not found] wrote: ↑Fri Sep 11, 2020 10:30 am
Check cable tension, make sure rear wheel is firmly seated in the dropouts. Is it possible you bumped the rear derailleur and knocked it out of alignment?
If the bump is possible - get it to a bike shop and have the derailleur hanger alignment checked. You could also just order up an alignment tool and do it yourself (it's really easy, but does require the right tool to do it).
Will check these items. Don't remember striking the deerailleur but IDK.
Its an indexed shifter, so tension on the shift lever itself is mostly irrelevant. The indexing on the Superbe Pro set was good but not super perfect, it's a bit sensitive. This was the first indexed group from Suntour (indexed = clicks into gear instead of a shift lever that is friction based and doesn't have set gear detents).
To re-set the wheel, open the rear quick release lever on the hub with the bike upright. Put a bit of weight on the saddle, pull the wheel farther into the dropouts, and then re-tighten it. The lever should be tight enough to leave a mark on your palm when you close it. Not he-man tight, but not going anywhere tight.
Flip the bike upside down. Lube the cable where it enters the housing and where it passes over the bottom bracket (crankset) area, as these are high friction areas that can booger up the way a bike shifts. Turn the pedals and try to idenfity where the interruption is happening. You may need an extra set of hands to hold the brake a bit while you pedal to put some resistance on it. If its happening at the back end, note which way the dreailleur/chain is skipping. If it's skipping down to a harder (smaller number of teeth) cog and then back up to where it should be, give the barrel adjuster on the rear shift cable a quarter turn out. If it's skipping up the cogs to an easier (higher number of teeth) cog, give the barrel adjuster a quarter turn in. It can be any barrel adjuster on that shift cable, I believe there is one at the derailleur itself, and one on the back end of the shift lever. Note that after each adjustment you should turn the cranks for a bit and cycle up/down the gears and back to the one that was causing problems.
If it's just a pop in the cranks with no discernible cable movement, it could be the chain is worn or the chainrings are worn. I forget what the chain measurement is, and I'm too exhausted to look it up. Sheldon Brown's website has a ton of great resources on this.
You can also degrease the chain and re-lube with chain lube (not WD-40!). A citrus based degreaser generally will work well. Any chain lube is good.
A shop will be able to diagnose this really quickly and repair it cheaply (like $25 ish), but at least these are some things you can do on your own. A shop can check alignment of the derailleur hanger. Nice thing with steel bikes, if it's bent, they just bend it back. But it's probably just cable tension related. I remember that bike needing tinkering every so often with the cable tension.