I went with a 36, feels fine at least for a few minutes on the trainer. I immediately don't like the short reach bar though, I'd rather have a long reach with a shorter stem so I can rest my forearms on the tops with my hands at the hoods. AFAIK nobody makes much of anything like that anymore
It seems like I could probably drop 5ish lbs off my bike with cranks, wheels, pedals, and saddle. Dunno if it would make any difference on the road but it would sure be easier to carry in and out of the apartment. I guess if I took a spin without my tool bag or water bottles then it would also be ~5 lbs lighter so that would be the way to test it.
Wheels would be an instant drop in rotating mass and make it feel snappier, too.
Check out VeloMine.com for good deals on decent wheelsets.
Cranks obviously after that. Dropping 500g in one part alone is massive.
Roadie. I will see how I like them on that and if I love it, may consider on MTB, but I kind of like having the flat studded pedals on the trails.
LOOK used to be the standard. Shimano road is probably just as good.
If you want a cross or gravel bike and plan to go off roading get shoes with tread that take 2 bolt mtb cleats/pedals instead of 3 bolt road cleats/pedals.
Velcro is fine. Boa is fine. Ratchets are fine but may not have super fine tuning. Laces are fine too.
I went with a 36, feels fine at least for a few minutes on the trainer. I immediately don't like the short reach bar though, I'd rather have a long reach with a shorter stem so I can rest my forearms on the tops with my hands at the hoods. AFAIK nobody makes much of anything like that anymore
It seems like I could probably drop 5ish lbs off my bike with cranks, wheels, pedals, and saddle. Dunno if it would make any difference on the road but it would sure be easier to carry in and out of the apartment. I guess if I took a spin without my tool bag or water bottles then it would also be ~5 lbs lighter so that would be the way to test it.
Nitto might make bars like that. Probably silver color.
You’d feel 5 lb diff. You will feel the wheels way more than anything else.
Unfortunately wheels are also the most expensive.
The problem with cranks is that I'm running an 8 speed triple, so there's really nothing light that'll fit without changing everything else too. $500ish bare minimum to go 2x10 or 2x11.
I'm going to get the fit dialed in, grab an 11-34 cassette for the hills, and then start buying cold weather gear as we're already getting into that up here. 57F this morning, need a new wardrobe vs 80s and 90s.
troyguitar wrote: ↑Fri Jul 31, 2020 9:32 pm
Unfortunately wheels are also the most expensive.
The problem with cranks is that I'm running an 8 speed triple, so there's really nothing light that'll fit without changing everything else too. $500ish bare minimum to go 2x10 or 2x11.
I'm going to get the fit dialed in, grab an 11-34 cassette for the hills, and then start buying cold weather gear as we're already getting into that up here. 57F this morning, need a new wardrobe vs 80s and 90s.
Huh? It's July.
Hoth
Lows go down to about 50 already in the 10-day forecast.
Roadie. I will see how I like them on that and if I love it, may consider on MTB, but I kind of like having the flat studded pedals on the trails.
LOOK used to be the standard. Shimano road is probably just as good.
If you want a cross or gravel bike and plan to go off roading get shoes with tread that take 2 bolt mtb cleats/pedals instead of 3 bolt road cleats/pedals.
Velcro is fine. Boa is fine. Ratchets are fine but may not have super fine tuning. Laces are fine too.
What size shoe you wear?
46 apparently
I saw LOOK in some GCN videos. Found some new old stock Shimano 105 pedals on eBay, thinking about those.
Good info on the shoes, I may switch my mountain bike over if I like riding clipped in.
Took 2 short test rides today. The narrow stuff is definitely way better and I definitely want my shorter gearing back. Hopefully 30/34 instead of 30/32 will be good enough once someone gets the cassette in stock again.
How should I bed the brakes? The 2 piston spyres feel much smoother and more solid than my sliders but they don't have much bite yet. I have to pull the levers really hard for the same deceleration. The stock pads might just suck but I suspect that they need to be bedded properly first.
One of the neighbors got his new Checkpoint SL6 last night and I went out with them for a quick 2nd ride before it got too dark. I can keep up fine now so there's no huge need to upgrade anything else beyond comfort.
troyguitar wrote: ↑Fri Jul 31, 2020 11:37 pm
Took 2 short test rides today. The narrow stuff is definitely way better and I definitely want my shorter gearing back. Hopefully 30/34 instead of 30/32 will be good enough once someone gets the cassette in stock again.
How should I bed the brakes? The 2 piston spyres feel much smoother and more solid than my sliders but they don't have much bite yet. I have to pull the levers really hard for the same deceleration. The stock pads might just suck but I suspect that they need to be bedded properly first.
One of the neighbors got his new Checkpoint SL6 last night and I went out with them for a quick 2nd ride before it got too dark. I can keep up fine now so there's no huge need to upgrade anything else beyond comfort.
Will take a few rides for them to bite. Usually first ride on new pads blows.
troyguitar wrote: ↑Fri Jul 31, 2020 11:37 pm
Took 2 short test rides today. The narrow stuff is definitely way better and I definitely want my shorter gearing back. Hopefully 30/34 instead of 30/32 will be good enough once someone gets the cassette in stock again.
How should I bed the brakes? The 2 piston spyres feel much smoother and more solid than my sliders but they don't have much bite yet. I have to pull the levers really hard for the same deceleration. The stock pads might just suck but I suspect that they need to be bedded properly first.
One of the neighbors got his new Checkpoint SL6 last night and I went out with them for a quick 2nd ride before it got too dark. I can keep up fine now so there's no huge need to upgrade anything else beyond comfort.
Will take a few rides for them to bite. Usually first ride on new pads blows.
when I got my Whorbea I was super disappointed in the braking as that was the main reason I upgraded from my old Trek and it was shit.
I had a guy at the trail who looked experienced Ride it, he said just give it a little time and it’ll be good, feels normal, etc. The brakes on it really are great, just takes a bit of mileage.
troyguitar wrote: ↑Fri Jul 31, 2020 11:37 pm
Took 2 short test rides today. The narrow stuff is definitely way better and I definitely want my shorter gearing back. Hopefully 30/34 instead of 30/32 will be good enough once someone gets the cassette in stock again.
How should I bed the brakes? The 2 piston spyres feel much smoother and more solid than my sliders but they don't have much bite yet. I have to pull the levers really hard for the same deceleration. The stock pads might just suck but I suspect that they need to be bedded properly first.
One of the neighbors got his new Checkpoint SL6 last night and I went out with them for a quick 2nd ride before it got too dark. I can keep up fine now so there's no huge need to upgrade anything else beyond comfort.
Bed in process is similar to cars.
Get up to about 10-15 mph. Firm application front and rear until you are almost stopped. I’ll usually do a set of 10, then give it a few minutes without clamping the brakes all the way down when stopped. Repeat 3-4 times.
Lows go down to about 50 already in the 10-day forecast.
I’d buy some good cold weather gear before I dicked around with new cranksets again.
I'm slowly getting to the point where I can just ride the thing. It'll be nice to have some time and energy to dedicate to other things again. For now IDGAF that it's heavy.
Getting lighter/better stuff can be an upgrade later when I hit a plateau and don't need the super low gears anymore. 300+ watt FTP minimum for that around here so it'll be awhile.
Johnny_P wrote:
I’d buy some good cold weather gear before I dicked around with new cranksets again.
I'm slowly getting to the point where I can just ride the thing. It'll be nice to have some time and energy to dedicate to other things again. For now IDGAF that it's heavy.
Getting lighter/better stuff can be an upgrade later when I hit a plateau and don't need the super low gears anymore. 300+ watt FTP minimum for that around here so it'll be awhile.
Honestly it may be more cost effective to get a better bike after some time instead of throwing $1000 of parts at this. Now that you know what you want and how you want to fit on it. You are heading to a more classic roadie fit than I thought you would.
I'm slowly getting to the point where I can just ride the thing. It'll be nice to have some time and energy to dedicate to other things again. For now IDGAF that it's heavy.
Getting lighter/better stuff can be an upgrade later when I hit a plateau and don't need the super low gears anymore. 300+ watt FTP minimum for that around here so it'll be awhile.
Honestly it may be more cost effective to get a better bike after some time instead of throwing $1000 of parts at this. Now that you know what you want and how you want to fit on it. You are heading to a more classic roadie fit than I thought you would.
Any kind of upgrade does indeed end up costing at least $1000 no matter how it's done, which is why it is not happening for some time.
The "cheap" option is tiagra group on Chinese carbon frame with FSA cranks and whatever random "cheap" wheels. Still costs $1500ish total, could maybe sell my current shit for $300 or so.
Johnny_P wrote:
Honestly it may be more cost effective to get a better bike after some time instead of throwing $1000 of parts at this. Now that you know what you want and how you want to fit on it. You are heading to a more classic roadie fit than I thought you would.
Any kind of upgrade does indeed end up costing at least $1000 no matter how it's done, which is why it is not happening for some time.
The "cheap" option is tiagra group on Chinese carbon frame with FSA cranks and whatever random "cheap" wheels. Still costs $1500ish total, could maybe sell my current shit for $300 or so.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/defy-advanced-2
Something like that maybe. Roadie geometry, no focus on off road means it'll probably ride even smoother on road. Can still take 35mm tires. 105, hydro disc, and carbon frameset. Pretty nice bike. Others include Cannondale Synapse and Specialized Roubaix. Just something to consider. Right now lots of supply issues due to covid. Might make sense to ride the current bike over the winter, then plan on shopping around in the spring when supply is figured out.
I'd probably still suggest going with 11 speed 105 or so. More upgradeable in the future, bigger assortment of compatible parts than the one-off Tiagra that is a great groupset but kind of on it's own little island of non-compatibility in bike part land.
I just don't see blowing $3k with tax and other accessories on a bike, that's a big jump from $1500. You're right that the extra $100ish to get a 105 group vs tiagra is probably a good idea. If I had to order stuff today I'd go with 2x11 R7000 shifters and derailleurs with a 52/36 crank and 11-40 MTB cassette - apparently the GS derailleur works fine even up to the 11-42, plus 11-speed MTB cassettes still fit on the cheaper 8/9/10-speed hubs like mine.
I do need to try skinnier tarz and whatnot at some point to see how bad they are on the gravel. If a 32mm would be OK then a lot more frames would work. The roads here can be pretty rocky
Completed a metric century. That was pretty hard but I feel good about it, speed for a 28 pound bike. The last leg (16 miles) after the coffee shop was pretty tough, not sure I would’ve made it without stopping for an iced coffee and sandwich.
Completed a metric century. That was pretty hard but I feel good about it, speed for a 28 pound bike. The last leg (16 miles) after the coffee shop was pretty tough, not sure I would’ve made it without stopping for an iced coffee and sandwich.
Apex wrote: ↑Sat Aug 01, 2020 3:35 pm
Wifey mentioned today that she wants to get some gravel bikes that we could leave at LBI.
I actually like my Raleigh quite a bit as a sort of beach bike, throw some slightly more aggressive tires on something like that and it's great for tooling around at the beach but not expensive enough to fret leaving it sitting outside and stuff in the humidity when that is required.
Completed a metric century. That was pretty hard but I feel good about it, speed for a 28 pound bike. The last leg (16 miles) after the coffee shop was pretty tough, not sure I would’ve made it without stopping for an iced coffee and sandwich.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Killer. Nice job. You're an animal with that bike.
Completed a metric century. That was pretty hard but I feel good about it, speed for a 28 pound bike. The last leg (16 miles) after the coffee shop was pretty tough, not sure I would’ve made it without stopping for an iced coffee and sandwich.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Fuuuuck I want to move down there. You fuckers are so lucky.
Completed a metric century. That was pretty hard but I feel good about it, speed for a 28 pound bike. The last leg (16 miles) after the coffee shop was pretty tough, not sure I would’ve made it without stopping for an iced coffee and sandwich.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Solid!
I'm not a big fan of eating a real meal while on the bike, but if it works for you, go for it. I prefer to eat small things that are calorie dense when riding then wait to fully refuel until after.
For example, on today's ride I ate 1.5 packs of shot blocks, a clif bar, and drank a can of coke and a San Pellegrino orange fizzy lifting drink, plus went through 3 bottles of water.
And speaking of today's ride... that's the next post.
What are you doing to haul so much food and water with you, backpack?
Also what is a shot block besides what NHL forwards do to destroy their ankles?