Dem bicicletas dos, doe.
- troyguitar
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Just weighed my bike for the hell of it, 28.6 lbs as it sits with everything except for water bottles. That's kind of less than I expected, it feels heavy.
New crank+bb is 200g lighter than the stock stuff despite still being a cheapo triple.
New crank+bb is 200g lighter than the stock stuff despite still being a cheapo triple.
- troyguitar
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Only had time to throw everything together and get it half-ass setup tonight but initial impressions are quite positive. 26 instead of 30 teeth is waaaaaay better on the stupid 10-15% grades here and 48 instead of 50 teeth up top is not really noticeable. I can see that it's going to take awhile to get the thing to go through all of the gears nicely without noise
I'm probably going to need to buy a real wrench to tighten the external BB cups properly too, seems like it's creaking a bit because my shitty wrench plus the plastic adapter ring couldn't get anywhere near the torque spec of ~50 Nm.
I'm probably going to need to buy a real wrench to tighten the external BB cups properly too, seems like it's creaking a bit because my shitty wrench plus the plastic adapter ring couldn't get anywhere near the torque spec of ~50 Nm.
- fledonfoot
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I’d like to commend you again on your ridiculousness.
- troyguitar
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[user not found] wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 9:25 pmJohnny_P wrote:90 degrees again. Not riding in this shit.
90 degrees? Come at me bro.
- Johnny_P
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You can have it. Too hot for me.[user not found] wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 9:25 pmJohnny_P wrote:90 degrees again. Not riding in this shit.
90 degrees? Come at me bro.
- Johnny_P
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Oh sweet. Tuning a front derailleur blows. Have fun. Glad the gearing change is working out though.troyguitar wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 8:02 pm Only had time to throw everything together and get it half-ass setup tonight but initial impressions are quite positive. 26 instead of 30 teeth is waaaaaay better on the stupid 10-15% grades here and 48 instead of 50 teeth up top is not really noticeable. I can see that it's going to take awhile to get the thing to go through all of the gears nicely without noise
I'm probably going to need to buy a real wrench to tighten the external BB cups properly too, seems like it's creaking a bit because my shitty wrench plus the plastic adapter ring couldn't get anywhere near the torque spec of ~50 Nm.
- Johnny_P
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@troy next major weight item would be wheels. A $500 wheelset set up tubeless would probably drop 2-3 lbs and make a huge difference in the way it accelerates and climbs.
- troyguitar
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Yeah I know I could drop a lot by doing wheels (and also get sealed cartridge bearings instead of unsealed cup&cone stuff) but I'm probably going to hold off on that until I at least have one of the hubs go bad. Since the wheels are already tubeless compatible, though, I will probably go ahead and try some faster tubeless tires soon. Leaning toward that Maxxis Velocita AR, same 700x40 as my current stuff but tubeless and almost a full pound lighter between the pair, not counting the weight of tubes.
- troyguitar
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I think I have it adjusted fine now, I just only had like 5 minutes of daylight left earlier to throw it together quickly and do a spin around the block. I'll likely have to mess with it further once I get it out on the road, but for now it's at least going through all the gears fine while upside down in the basement. I wonder if I might need to take a link or two out of the chain as it seems kind of loose, need to look up what kind of tension it's supposed to have - or really just buy a better derailleur sometime. New old stock 9-speed Deore with 45T capacity is all of like $35 on ebay.[user not found] wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:59 pmI don’t find them to be all that difficult anymore. Align the outer face with the rings, adjust it so it’s 3-5mm off the biggest ring in the lowest position, and set the limits.
There’s a little fine tuning beyond that, but I’ve gotten much better at it over the years.
Shame you’re not closer, - would be glad to help with setup.
At some point it would be nice to swap bikes with someone who knows they're doing though just to see how my shit actually compares to anything else. We don't exactly have offering test drives in town.
- Johnny_P
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In small-small the chain shouldn't be rubbing on itself on the rear derailleur. The derailleur should be fully tucked into itself but without causing the chain on the upper pulley to rub the chain coming back off the lower pulley to the crankset.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:20 amI think I have it adjusted fine now, I just only had like 5 minutes of daylight left earlier to throw it together quickly and do a spin around the block. I'll likely have to mess with it further once I get it out on the road, but for now it's at least going through all the gears fine while upside down in the basement. I wonder if I might need to take a link or two out of the chain as it seems kind of loose, need to look up what kind of tension it's supposed to have - or really just buy a better derailleur sometime. New old stock 9-speed Deore with 45T capacity is all of like $35 on ebay.[user not found] wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:59 pm
I don’t find them to be all that difficult anymore. Align the outer face with the rings, adjust it so it’s 3-5mm off the biggest ring in the lowest position, and set the limits.
There’s a little fine tuning beyond that, but I’ve gotten much better at it over the years.
Shame you’re not closer, - would be glad to help with setup.
At some point it would be nice to swap bikes with someone who knows they're doing though just to see how my shit actually compares to anything else. We don't exactly have offering test drives in town.
In big-big the cage should be nearly fully extended.
I still haven't ever gotten mine working right, should've taken Johnny up on the offer of facetime tuning, but I'm wasting $75 on the shop tune up (they finally have a slot this week) for wheel truing and hopefully getting that right. To be honest, I really don't miss having the large cog on the front, I just start coasting if I run out of high gears. I'm curious to see if it makes me any faster if they can get it working well.[user not found] wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 10:59 pmI don’t find them to be all that difficult anymore. Align the outer face with the rings, adjust it so it’s 3-5mm off the biggest ring in the lowest position, and set the limits.
There’s a little fine tuning beyond that, but I’ve gotten much better at it over the years.
Shame you’re not closer, - would be glad to help with setup.
- troyguitar
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How far out is fully extended, like no bends at all? I definitely have a lot of room to go. Chain is for sure too long now, on small-small it hits itself.Johnny_P wrote:In small-small the chain shouldn't be rubbing on itself on the rear derailleur. The derailleur should be fully tucked into itself but without causing the chain on the upper pulley to rub the chain coming back off the lower pulley to the crankset.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:20 am I think I have it adjusted fine now, I just only had like 5 minutes of daylight left earlier to throw it together quickly and do a spin around the block. I'll likely have to mess with it further once I get it out on the road, but for now it's at least going through all the gears fine while upside down in the basement. I wonder if I might need to take a link or two out of the chain as it seems kind of loose, need to look up what kind of tension it's supposed to have - or really just buy a better derailleur sometime. New old stock 9-speed Deore with 45T capacity is all of like $35 on ebay.
At some point it would be nice to swap bikes with someone who knows they're doing though just to see how my shit actually compares to anything else. We don't exactly have offering test drives in town.
In big-big the cage should be nearly fully extended.
Last photo is me pulling a bunch on the top to extend the derailleur.
- troyguitar
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Nevermind, that was easy. I took one link out, figured I can take another if needed, and it's perfect on both ends now.
- Johnny_P
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Yeah I was gonna suggest one link.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 12:12 pm Nevermind, that was easy. I took one link out, figured I can take another if needed, and it's perfect on both ends now.
- troyguitar
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First quick test: I definitely need to get a real wrench to fully tighten the BB, I'm getting a number of new ticks/creaks and this is a brand new XT part so that shouldn't happen.
Otherwise shifting is fine and impossible climbs, while still hard, are a little less terrible. Running the same uphill segment today that I started with last week was still hard but I didn't have to stop in the middle and could instead plod along at a cadence of probably like 40 RPM? Really slow but not impossible. I only went 0.4 mph faster, but average heart rate was 148 instead of 173 so I didn't feel like I was going to die at the top.
Moved all the way up from 56th out of 60 all-time to 53rd! I can see how looking at anyone else's Strava segments is a recipe for sadness. Apparently I'm almost the weakest person to have ever gotten on a bike here.
Otherwise shifting is fine and impossible climbs, while still hard, are a little less terrible. Running the same uphill segment today that I started with last week was still hard but I didn't have to stop in the middle and could instead plod along at a cadence of probably like 40 RPM? Really slow but not impossible. I only went 0.4 mph faster, but average heart rate was 148 instead of 173 so I didn't feel like I was going to die at the top.
Moved all the way up from 56th out of 60 all-time to 53rd! I can see how looking at anyone else's Strava segments is a recipe for sadness. Apparently I'm almost the weakest person to have ever gotten on a bike here.
Eh, I still think you're being too hard on yourself. Most people would never use Strava unless they were pretty engaged in cycling. You also have a pretty small sample size in Corning.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 1:31 pm First quick test: I definitely need to get a real wrench to fully tighten the BB, I'm getting a number of new ticks/creaks and this is a brand new XT part so that shouldn't happen.
Otherwise shifting is fine and impossible climbs, while still hard, are a little less terrible. Running the same uphill segment today that I started with last week was still hard but I didn't have to stop in the middle and could instead plod along at a cadence of probably like 40 RPM? Really slow but not impossible. I only went 0.4 mph faster, but average heart rate was 148 instead of 173 so I didn't feel like I was going to die at the top.
Moved all the way up from 56th out of 60 all-time to 53rd! I can see how looking at anyone else's Strava segments is a recipe for sadness. Apparently I'm almost the weakest person to have ever gotten on a bike here.
I feel like I'm pretty decent now and still typically in the bottom 1/4 on most segments. I think you and I both "suffer" from being on less good bikes than most users as well. On my mountain bike I still suck and the Orbea is decent... I just have no confidence on trails.
- troyguitar
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I don't really care that much except for eventually being able to ride with other people and making sure that I'm not hurting myself. Struggling up the steep shit at 180 bpm and a cadence of near zero might be useful for fitness if you only do it for a very short period of time, but it can't be good to be doing too often - think of it like lifting weights at your highest possible weight to exhaustion. You can't do that constantly, you do it for a few minutes and then rest those muscles for a couple of days. The gear swap seems to have alleviated most of that super hard struggle. Not to mention the fact that it's a lot safer to NOT fall over in the middle of the road due to exhaustion.D Griff wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 1:39 pmEh, I still think you're being too hard on yourself. Most people would never use Strava unless they were pretty engaged in cycling. You also have a pretty small sample size in Corning.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 1:31 pm First quick test: I definitely need to get a real wrench to fully tighten the BB, I'm getting a number of new ticks/creaks and this is a brand new XT part so that shouldn't happen.
Otherwise shifting is fine and impossible climbs, while still hard, are a little less terrible. Running the same uphill segment today that I started with last week was still hard but I didn't have to stop in the middle and could instead plod along at a cadence of probably like 40 RPM? Really slow but not impossible. I only went 0.4 mph faster, but average heart rate was 148 instead of 173 so I didn't feel like I was going to die at the top.
Moved all the way up from 56th out of 60 all-time to 53rd! I can see how looking at anyone else's Strava segments is a recipe for sadness. Apparently I'm almost the weakest person to have ever gotten on a bike here.
I feel like I'm pretty decent now and still typically in the bottom 1/4 on most segments. I think you and I both "suffer" from being on less good bikes than most users as well. On my mountain bike I still suck and the Orbea is decent... I just have no confidence on trails.
I'm guessing tires will eliminate a lot of the speed gap between me and others who seem to be in similar states of fitness. I have found a number of interwebs tire reviews from people who had the same tires as stock on my bike and changed them for almost anything and they're universally like "these new tires make me feel like a hero, it's like having a permanent tailwind compared to the Nanos" - so apparently I have indeed been handicapping myself due to equipment.
I believe it on the tires, even a 5 PSI change makes a pretty noticeable difference in effort for me. I'm much quicker in full anus shattering mode.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 1:50 pmI don't really care that much except for eventually being able to ride with other people and making sure that I'm not hurting myself. Struggling up the steep shit at 180 bpm and a cadence of near zero might be useful for fitness if you only do it for a very short period of time, but it can't be good to be doing too often - think of it like lifting weights at your highest possible weight to exhaustion. You can't do that constantly, you do it for a few minutes and then rest those muscles for a couple of days. The gear swap seems to have alleviated most of that super hard struggle. Not to mention the fact that it's a lot safer to NOT fall over in the middle of the road due to exhaustion.D Griff wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 1:39 pm
Eh, I still think you're being too hard on yourself. Most people would never use Strava unless they were pretty engaged in cycling. You also have a pretty small sample size in Corning.
I feel like I'm pretty decent now and still typically in the bottom 1/4 on most segments. I think you and I both "suffer" from being on less good bikes than most users as well. On my mountain bike I still suck and the Orbea is decent... I just have no confidence on trails.
I'm guessing tires will eliminate a lot of the speed gap between me and others who seem to be in similar states of fitness. I have found a number of interwebs tire reviews from people who had the same tires as stock on my bike and changed them for almost anything and they're universally like "these new tires make me feel like a hero, it's like having a permanent tailwind compared to the Nanos" - so apparently I have indeed been handicapping myself due to equipment.
- troyguitar
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I'm rolling at 35 psi now because our roads are garbage. Depending on how much more comfy tubeless tires are I might also consider the suspension stem in the future to keep my teeth from being rattled out.
https://redshiftsports.com/shockstop-suspension-stem
Pretty soon I'll have $1500 into my $500 bike.
Admittedly a lot of that cost is independent of the bike itself. Pedals, shoes, helmet, tools, bags, clothes, etc. all would have been purchased regardless. The only real extra expenses specific to the bike thus far have been on the crank swap and seat+seatpost, so maybe more like $750 into the $500 bike.
https://redshiftsports.com/shockstop-suspension-stem
Pretty soon I'll have $1500 into my $500 bike.
Admittedly a lot of that cost is independent of the bike itself. Pedals, shoes, helmet, tools, bags, clothes, etc. all would have been purchased regardless. The only real extra expenses specific to the bike thus far have been on the crank swap and seat+seatpost, so maybe more like $750 into the $500 bike.
- Johnny_P
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Tubeless won't be radically different if you're already running at 35 PSI. If the tires and rims are tubeless ready (TLR generally is the badging) then you might as well just do it for the weight savings. Warning, it can be a real pain in the ass. I think you have WTB rims? If so, they have bead retention ridges in the rim that lock the tire on. You can go stupid low with that and not worry about the tire pinch flatting the tube. On older systems if you went too low, the tire could pull away from the rim slightly when you went around a turn, the tube would fill the void, and when you straightened back out the tire went back to where it was supposed to go and BAM! FLAT.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Jun 30, 2020 2:37 pm I'm rolling at 35 psi now because our roads are garbage. Depending on how much more comfy tubeless tires are I might also consider the suspension stem in the future to keep my teeth from being rattled out.
https://redshiftsports.com/shockstop-suspension-stem
Pretty soon I'll have $1500 into my $500 bike.
I run 25-30 front 35 rear on my nanos. If I am doing all dirt I might go 5 lower.
If youre doing all this you could get tires that have a less aggressive tread and a more supple casing as well. Like a Compass Barlow Pass or something.