I like that a lot... more in the range I'd prefer to spend. The thing is though, I just don't know a ton about bikes. I don't mind spending $3K if I'm really going to continue riding 50-100 miles/week. I seem to use bikes more than cars now or anything else I own besides my house. But I am kind of on spending huge money when I don't care about being the top record holder on Strava or anything like that.
I guess it's time to start researching, maybe eventually test ride some things and see what sort of fitment I'd need. At seems like road bikes differ less in geometry and stuff than mountain bikes. After riding my friend's Giant MTB a month or two ago I was at how it was absolutely nothing like my Orbea. Every bump that thing just wanted to launch into the air whereas mine is just kind of planted and makes it relatively easy to mow over things. The gearing on it also made any road riding prohibitive. I like that my mountain bike can be ridden a few miles on the road to trails without it being a major struggle.
I'm not even sure what to look for with a road bike. I just want a fun color ol:
Since you live in a real city and are already in good shape, just go ride a bunch of stuff. I basically had to buy without any real test drive options so I went super cheap.
To be honest the shimano Claris stuff on my bike works fucking awesome. I'm how much better it will really get to buy "better" stuff - except for it being lighter in weight, which is why I keep focusing on weight.
D Griff wrote:
I like that a lot... more in the range I'd prefer to spend. The thing is though, I just don't know a ton about bikes. I don't mind spending $3K if I'm really going to continue riding 50-100 miles/week. I seem to use bikes more than cars now or anything else I own besides my house. But I am kind of on spending huge money when I don't care about being the top record holder on Strava or anything like that.
I guess it's time to start researching, maybe eventually test ride some things and see what sort of fitment I'd need. At seems like road bikes differ less in geometry and stuff than mountain bikes. After riding my friend's Giant MTB a month or two ago I was at how it was absolutely nothing like my Orbea. Every bump that thing just wanted to launch into the air whereas mine is just kind of planted and makes it relatively easy to mow over things. The gearing on it also made any road riding prohibitive. I like that my mountain bike can be ridden a few miles on the road to trails without it being a major struggle.
I'm not even sure what to look for with a road bike. I just want a fun color ol:
Since you live in a real city and are already in good shape, just go ride a bunch of stuff. I basically had to buy without any real test drive options so I went super cheap.
To be honest the shimano Claris stuff on my bike works fucking awesome. I'm how much better it will really get to buy "better" stuff - except for it being lighter in weight, which is why I keep focusing on weight.
I think the test riding would be a good place to start... I wonder if bike shops are still packed. about saving grams in the components if it will cost me a ton. The way I see it, lighter just means I won't get as fit/strong.... I'd like it to be reasonably light but I'm not paying $1K more to save two pounds. I could just lose two pounds and save money.
I like that a lot... more in the range I'd prefer to spend. The thing is though, I just don't know a ton about bikes. I don't mind spending $3K if I'm really going to continue riding 50-100 miles/week. I seem to use bikes more than cars now or anything else I own besides my house. But I am kind of on spending huge money when I don't care about being the top record holder on Strava or anything like that.
I guess it's time to start researching, maybe eventually test ride some things and see what sort of fitment I'd need. At seems like road bikes differ less in geometry and stuff than mountain bikes. After riding my friend's Giant MTB a month or two ago I was at how it was absolutely nothing like my Orbea. Every bump that thing just wanted to launch into the air whereas mine is just kind of planted and makes it relatively easy to mow over things. The gearing on it also made any road riding prohibitive. I like that my mountain bike can be ridden a few miles on the road to trails without it being a major struggle.
I'm not even sure what to look for with a road bike. I just want a fun color
Should be some good things in the 2k arena. They might be aluminum but that’s fine. Aluminum bikes can ride great too. Most of the compliance is in the tires anyway.
So... it goes kinda like this?
Steel = rides nice and cheap but heavy
Aluminum = Light and fairly cheap but rides not as well
Carbon = Light and expensive, ride quality between the other two
troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 1:05 pm
Since you live in a real city and are already in good shape, just go ride a bunch of stuff. I basically had to buy without any real test drive options so I went super cheap.
To be honest the shimano Claris stuff on my bike works fucking awesome. I'm how much better it will really get to buy "better" stuff - except for it being lighter in weight, which is why I keep focusing on weight.
I think the test riding would be a good place to start... I wonder if bike shops are still packed. about saving grams in the components if it will cost me a ton. The way I see it, lighter just means I won't get as fit/strong.... I'd like it to be reasonably light but I'm not paying $1K more to save two pounds. I could just lose two pounds and save money.
In theory the better stuff is also more durable/reliable, at least up to the 105 level for example. As I understand it, ultegra and beyond are just lighter, so 105 is supposed to be the best value.
But like I said, even my cheapo claris stuff is amazing compared to any bike I have ever been on before this. Shifts are perfect and effortless every time and the disc brakes are great. Besides my own comfort/fitness/ergonomics I have no complaints with the $500 bike.
Maybe that'll change when it has 5000 miles on it. Right now it only has ~500.
D Griff wrote:
I think the test riding would be a good place to start... I wonder if bike shops are still packed. about saving grams in the components if it will cost me a ton. The way I see it, lighter just means I won't get as fit/strong.... I'd like it to be reasonably light but I'm not paying $1K more to save two pounds. I could just lose two pounds and save money.
In theory the better stuff is also more durable/reliable, at least up to the 105 level for example. As I understand it, ultegra and beyond are just lighter, so 105 is supposed to be the best value.
But like I said, even my cheapo claris stuff is amazing compared to any bike I have ever been on before this. Shifts are perfect and effortless every time and the disc brakes are great. Besides my own comfort/fitness/ergonomics I have no complaints with the $500 bike.
Maybe that'll change when it has 5000 miles on it. Right now it only has ~500.
I wonder what series SHimano is on my Orbea. That thing has been run hard and put away wet for three years and everything still works very nicely. I feel like you have to be like constantly catching 20' air or something to actually break these things I've never even worn through a set of brake pads on a bike.
In other news, my flat bar showed up today but I don't know if I even want to bother trying it. I guess it's not that much work or cost to eat if it ends up being a waste of time.
Annoyingly, even if I decide to stick with the flat bars, it seems like the correct shifters to work with my existing shit are out of stock around the world. Would need claris ST-R243-L and ST-R240-R, at least at a glance I don't see them available anywhere.
D Griff wrote:
I like that a lot... more in the range I'd prefer to spend. The thing is though, I just don't know a ton about bikes. I don't mind spending $3K if I'm really going to continue riding 50-100 miles/week. I seem to use bikes more than cars now or anything else I own besides my house. But I am kind of on spending huge money when I don't care about being the top record holder on Strava or anything like that.
I guess it's time to start researching, maybe eventually test ride some things and see what sort of fitment I'd need. At seems like road bikes differ less in geometry and stuff than mountain bikes. After riding my friend's Giant MTB a month or two ago I was at how it was absolutely nothing like my Orbea. Every bump that thing just wanted to launch into the air whereas mine is just kind of planted and makes it relatively easy to mow over things. The gearing on it also made any road riding prohibitive. I like that my mountain bike can be ridden a few miles on the road to trails without it being a major struggle.
I'm not even sure what to look for with a road bike. I just want a fun color ol:
Since you live in a real city and are already in good shape, just go ride a bunch of stuff. I basically had to buy without any real test drive options so I went super cheap.
To be honest the shimano Claris stuff on my bike works fucking awesome. I'm how much better it will really get to buy "better" stuff - except for it being lighter in weight, which is why I keep focusing on weight.
Claris doesn’t suck anymore. It’s basically 20 year old Dura ace. As you move to tiagra and 105 it gets smoother and you gain more gears. After 105 it’s just dick measuring.
troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 1:05 pm
Since you live in a real city and are already in good shape, just go ride a bunch of stuff. I basically had to buy without any real test drive options so I went super cheap.
To be honest the shimano Claris stuff on my bike works fucking awesome. I'm how much better it will really get to buy "better" stuff - except for it being lighter in weight, which is why I keep focusing on weight.
Claris doesn’t suck anymore. It’s basically 20 year old Dura ace. As you move to tiagra and 105 it gets smoother and you gain more gears. After 105 it’s just dick measuring.
The awesomeness of the STI shifters is the main reason why I'm reluctant to try the flat bar swap. Are MTB shifters good now too?
Claris doesn’t suck anymore. It’s basically 20 year old Dura ace. As you move to tiagra and 105 it gets smoother and you gain more gears. After 105 it’s just dick measuring.
The awesomeness of the STI shifters is the main reason why I'm reluctant to try the flat bar swap. Are MTB shifters good now too?
Yep. Sram is all thumb action. Shimano uses thumb and index finger. Both are very good.
Should be some good things in the 2k arena. They might be aluminum but that’s fine. Aluminum bikes can ride great too. Most of the compliance is in the tires anyway.
So... it goes kinda like this?
Steel = rides nice and cheap but heavy
Aluminum = Light and fairly cheap but rides not as well
Carbon = Light and expensive, ride quality between the other two
Carbon rides better than steel anymore but yeah otherwise that’s it.
Keep in mind though when you talk about ability of a frame to soak up a bump... it’s pretty laughably small regardless of the materials. It’s all in the tires really. The frame material WILL however dampen vibrations. Carbon dampens them the most. Steel and aluminum are kind of tied in that they don’t filter as much out.
Basically there’s nothing wrong with picking any frame material. I like steel because I beat the fuck out of my bikes and the steel one is just a tank. It does also have a bit more flex and spring to it.
Steel = rides nice and cheap but heavy
Aluminum = Light and fairly cheap but rides not as well
Carbon = Light and expensive, ride quality between the other two
Carbon rides better than steel anymore but yeah otherwise that’s it.
Keep in mind though when you talk about ability of a frame to soak up a bump... it’s pretty laughably small regardless of the materials. It’s all in the tires really. The frame material WILL however dampen vibrations. Carbon dampens them the most. Steel and aluminum are kind of tied in that they don’t filter as much out.
Basically there’s nothing wrong with picking any frame material. I like steel because I beat the fuck out of my bikes and the steel one is just a tank. It does also have a bit more flex and spring to it.
Given I won't really use this on trails or anything, it sounds like carbon would be the way to go if I want to or otherwise aluminum. Even on the trails I'm more of just a than someone going full over jumps. My times are only acceptable because I'm a good climber, downhill I'm
Man I wish I had the shifters and brakes set up so I could try this outside. This instantly feels a million times more comfortable. No surprise since flat bars are all I had ever used before buying this bike. Flats vs drops:
[user not found] wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 4:18 pm
Whatever you get for the road, make sure it’s got thru axles and discs. Something like a Cannondale Synapse, Specialized Diverge, Trek Domane - those bikes can handle tires up to at least 32C but are still road-oriented enough that they’re snappy and aerodynamic too. Aluminum is perfectly fine, carbon is great too. Just stick with a name brand that your local shop carries should you need to make any warranty claims.
But also, nobody says you have to get rid of the old steel steed either. Keep it for commuting purposes (perhaps make a few changes to make it even better for a commuter) and use the nice bike for fitness purposes.
I had kinda thought about that as well... less concerned if I have to leave it outside at work or whatever. But It would just be kind of to have a nice new bike at home and ride the old one. Could always alternate for fun. If I have three bikes I might have to rethink the hanging/storage but could probably make it work.
I just dropped the Raleigh off for a tune up ($75) as the rear wheel somehow got out of true riding in the to the beach. Also ordered a trailer hitch for the $91 shipped and looks like the easiest to install ever, should be done in 20 minutes or less.
troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 4:49 pm
Man I wish I had the shifters and brakes set up so I could try this outside. This instantly feels a million times more comfortable. No surprise since flat bars are all I had ever used before buying this bike. Flats vs drops:
[user not found] wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 4:18 pm
Whatever you get for the road, make sure it’s got thru axles and discs. Something like a Cannondale Synapse, Specialized Diverge, Trek Domane - those bikes can handle tires up to at least 32C but are still road-oriented enough that they’re snappy and aerodynamic too. Aluminum is perfectly fine, carbon is great too. Just stick with a name brand that your local shop carries should you need to make any warranty claims.
But also, nobody says you have to get rid of the old steel steed either. Keep it for commuting purposes (perhaps make a few changes to make it even better for a commuter) and use the nice bike for fitness purposes.
I had kinda thought about that as well... less concerned if I have to leave it outside at work or whatever. But It would just be kind of to have a nice new bike at home and ride the old one. Could always alternate for fun. If I have three bikes I might have to rethink the hanging/storage but could probably make it work.
I just dropped the Raleigh off for a tune up ($75) as the rear wheel somehow got out of true riding in the to the beach. Also ordered a trailer hitch for the $91 shipped and looks like the easiest to install ever, should be done in 20 minutes or less.
If you don’t have the rear sensors, it’s a 10 minute install. I did the Mopar hitch install on Sunday. Hold up the hitch and it’s 4 bolts and 2 nuts, 2 nuts we’re already welded on to the hitch. Don’t have to move a thing.
I had kinda thought about that as well... less concerned if I have to leave it outside at work or whatever. But It would just be kind of to have a nice new bike at home and ride the old one. Could always alternate for fun. If I have three bikes I might have to rethink the hanging/storage but could probably make it work.
I just dropped the Raleigh off for a tune up ($75) as the rear wheel somehow got out of true riding in the to the beach. Also ordered a trailer hitch for the $91 shipped and looks like the easiest to install ever, should be done in 20 minutes or less.
If you don’t have the rear sensors, it’s a 10 minute install. I did the Mopar hitch install on Sunday. Hold up the hitch and it’s 4 bolts and 2 nuts, 2 nuts we’re already welded on to the hitch. Don’t have to move a thing.
I got a Curt but same basic :excite:
After the C5 I've had it in my head that hitch installs are to be dreaded. BMW was and this one looks downright
If you don’t have the rear sensors, it’s a 10 minute install. I did the Mopar hitch install on Sunday. Hold up the hitch and it’s 4 bolts and 2 nuts, 2 nuts we’re already welded on to the hitch. Don’t have to move a thing.
I got a Curt but same basic :excite:
After the C5 I've had it in my head that hitch installs are to be dreaded. BMW was and this one looks downright