Ask any racer, any real racer...

Brothers of brub and brap, this is your safe space.
User avatar
Gberg2119
First Sirloin
First Sirloin
Posts: 4817
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:09 pm
Drives: W///
Location: Philly

Big Brain Bradley wrote: Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:13 am
Gberg2119 wrote: Mon Jul 08, 2019 8:37 pm Racer bros of DFD. I'm about to go to my first autocross with the R this weekend and I was wondering what I should do in between runs. At the philly events there's a decent amount of time between runs and since there are so many cars it makes sense to turn it off. I did this when I ran my GTI but I have no idea if that contributed to that cars amazing ability to eat waterpumps and have a multitude of other issues.

The fans on the R kick on way more frequently than they did on the Mk6 but I still don't know when I should shut it off. Should I wait till I see a specific oil temp? I guess how :wasteful: should I be with gas before turning the car off?

Also, the R is B Street so as of right now it's 2 GT350's and a Z4 M coupe in the same class. :dafuq:
its a car. I doubt the cycling of the engine on the TSI in the R is any more detrimental then it is on any other engine.

You should turn off and open hood to avoid heat soak.

Chalk the tires and run 40-45 psi. drop it between runs till the edge of the chalk is on the edge of the tread on the front. Use the rear to fine tune ballance (more air = more oversteer/less understeer)
I guess. I just figured it's better to keep hot oil and coolant flowing vs shutting it off. My GTI ended up having several oil leaks.

I was going to just run it at standard pressures to start which I think is 39psi. I used to pump up the rears on the GTI to around 46 but that car had front and rear sway bars. The R is stock.
User avatar
Gberg2119
First Sirloin
First Sirloin
Posts: 4817
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:09 pm
Drives: W///
Location: Philly

troyguitar wrote: Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:53 am I think they moved the R and most AWD cars down to DS at about the same time that the GT350/1LE/M4 went into BS.
You're right. I checked a few weeks ago and I swear it said BS. I checked the rulebook just now and it's DS. Maybe I was looking at an old one. :iono:
User avatar
goIftdibrad
Chief Master Soft Brain
Chief Master Soft Brain
Posts: 16746
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:01 am
Drives: straight past the apex

Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:45 am
Big Brain Bradley wrote: Tue Jul 09, 2019 7:13 am

its a car. I doubt the cycling of the engine on the TSI in the R is any more detrimental then it is on any other engine.

You should turn off and open hood to avoid heat soak.

Chalk the tires and run 40-45 psi. drop it between runs till the edge of the chalk is on the edge of the tread on the front. Use the rear to fine tune ballance (more air = more oversteer/less understeer)
I guess. I just figured it's better to keep hot oil and coolant flowing vs shutting it off. My GTI ended up having several oil leaks.

I was going to just run it at standard pressures to start which I think is 39psi. I used to pump up the rears on the GTI to around 46 but that car had front and rear sway bars. The R is stock.
Standard pressure will be too low. Its a car, you turn it on and off all the time. letting it sit there and idle is worse for it than being run hard and put up wet.
brain go brrrrrr
User avatar
4zilch
First Sirloin
First Sirloin
Posts: 6241
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 8:42 am
Drives: Ford Party ST
Location: God’s Country

Big Brain Bradley wrote: Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:55 am
Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:45 am

I guess. I just figured it's better to keep hot oil and coolant flowing vs shutting it off. My GTI ended up having several oil leaks.

I was going to just run it at standard pressures to start which I think is 39psi. I used to pump up the rears on the GTI to around 46 but that car had front and rear sway bars. The R is stock.
Standard pressure will be too low. Its a car, you turn it on and off all the time. letting it sit there and idle is worse for it than being run hard and put up wet.
:dat:

You're talking like 8 minutes of total run time over the course of 8 hours.
As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...
User avatar
Gberg2119
First Sirloin
First Sirloin
Posts: 4817
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:09 pm
Drives: W///
Location: Philly

4zilch wrote: Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:57 am
Big Brain Bradley wrote: Tue Jul 09, 2019 10:55 am

Standard pressure will be too low. Its a car, you turn it on and off all the time. letting it sit there and idle is worse for it than being run hard and put up wet.
:dat:

You're talking like 8 minutes of total run time over the course of 8 hours.
8 minutes is very optimistic. It's probably going to be about 4-5 minutes.
User avatar
Barnes93cb
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3401
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 7:20 am
Drives: Turbro Go Kart/ Yamaha Bolt
Location: West Tejas

Signed up for my first track day.

March 7-8 at motor sports ranch in Cresson, TX.

IM NOT READY. But it’s time I stopped making excuses.

Image
Image
User avatar
4zilch
First Sirloin
First Sirloin
Posts: 6241
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 8:42 am
Drives: Ford Party ST
Location: God’s Country

Barnes93cb wrote: Sun Jan 12, 2020 9:49 pm Signed up for my first track day.

March 7-8 at motor sports ranch in Cresson, TX.

IM NOT READY. But it’s time I stopped making excuses.

Image
Image
:fuckyeah:
As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...
User avatar
stripethree
Chief Patty Officer
Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 1273
Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2017 3:01 pm
Drives: '04 R32, '90 Miata, '17 CB300F
Location: Austin, TX

:fuckyeah:
dubshow
Senior Master Sirloin
Senior Master Sirloin
Posts: 11074
Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:18 am
Drives: All of them

stripethree wrote: Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:01 am:fuckyeah:
dat new avatar.

:jimp:
User avatar
stripethree
Chief Patty Officer
Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 1273
Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2017 3:01 pm
Drives: '04 R32, '90 Miata, '17 CB300F
Location: Austin, TX

I just put a few things together. Cresson is 3 hours from me. I too have an R32.

Temptation is high.

And new coilovers arrive Friday.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dubshow
Senior Master Sirloin
Senior Master Sirloin
Posts: 11074
Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:18 am
Drives: All of them

stripethree wrote: Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:11 pm I just put a few things together. Cresson is 3 hours from me. I too have an R32.

Temptation is high.

And new coilovers arrive Friday.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
which ones did you go with?
User avatar
Barnes93cb
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3401
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 7:20 am
Drives: Turbro Go Kart/ Yamaha Bolt
Location: West Tejas

stripethree wrote: Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:11 pm I just put a few things together. Cresson is 3 hours from me. I too have an R32.

Temptation is high.

And new coilovers arrive Friday.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:doit:
User avatar
stripethree
Chief Patty Officer
Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 1273
Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2017 3:01 pm
Drives: '04 R32, '90 Miata, '17 CB300F
Location: Austin, TX

dubshow wrote:
which ones did you go with?
Went back to KW V3s. Basically what I had before (KW ClubSports) but minus camber adjustment and using OEM bearings/bushings again. It'll be at near stock ride height so I don't need the camber adjustment and would like less harshness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
User avatar
Barnes93cb
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3401
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 7:20 am
Drives: Turbro Go Kart/ Yamaha Bolt
Location: West Tejas

stripethree wrote: Thu Jan 16, 2020 12:02 pm
dubshow wrote:
which ones did you go with?
Went back to KW V3s. Basically what I had before (KW ClubSports) but minus camber adjustment and using OEM bearings/bushings again. It'll be at near stock ride height so I don't need the camber adjustment and would like less harshness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So youre telling me the nearly solid mounts and bushings in my car would be harsh? What about H&R Race custom valved coilovers(with unknown specs)?

This car corners great from what I can tell. But its certainly stiff and I cant use all the potential yet.
User avatar
Barnes93cb
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3401
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 7:20 am
Drives: Turbro Go Kart/ Yamaha Bolt
Location: West Tejas

stripethree wrote: Thu Jan 16, 2020 12:02 pm
dubshow wrote:
which ones did you go with?
Went back to KW V3s. Basically what I had before (KW ClubSports) but minus camber adjustment and using OEM bearings/bushings again. It'll be at near stock ride height so I don't need the camber adjustment and would like less harshness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Im just saying if you come to the track day. You would be my first DFD :meat: up. And we get to race R32s. Im in HPDE 1 btw. First track day.
User avatar
stripethree
Chief Patty Officer
Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 1273
Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2017 3:01 pm
Drives: '04 R32, '90 Miata, '17 CB300F
Location: Austin, TX

Barnes93cb wrote: Thu Jan 16, 2020 2:14 pm Im just saying if you come to the track day. You would be my first DFD :meat: up. And we get to race R32s. Im in HPDE 1 btw. First track day.
Cool. Even though I haven't run NASA in a while, I imagine I could swing HPDE3. Still though, would be cool to :meat: up. I need to get my shit together with the parts coming between today and the weekend and we'll see how things go.
Barnes93cb wrote: Thu Jan 16, 2020 2:12 pm So youre telling me the nearly solid mounts and bushings in my car would be harsh? What about H&R Race custom valved coilovers(with unknown specs)?

This car corners great from what I can tell. But its certainly stiff and I cant use all the potential yet.
Yes. In fact, I would keep a keen eye on that dogbone mount (the one that is under the car and bolts to the subframe) if this car sees anything other than a decently smooth track. I have gone through 7 of them including high dollar shit like VF. I have never and will never do a solid one as that would end badly at rallyx, it would probably end up ripping it right out of the subframe, which I have seen happen. That mount is the weakest part of the front of the car IMHO. I am currently using an OEM mount with BFI yellow bushings and ECS' red poly center bushing.

Some other things I would tell past me that might help:
- Pay attention to rear diff whine. If it starts to be consistent, change the fluid (diff, not Haldex) and see if there's metal on the magnetic drag plug. If there is any, start looking for a diff. Mine went at 125k miles and I threw an 87k used one off ebay in it. If it blows up and you aren't trailering, you can pull the Haldex fuse and drive home in 2WD mode just fine, minus the CEL
- HPP orange is the only way I've found that this car does not understeer at the limit. It's carrying almost 1k lbs of weight over each front corner and there's not a lot to do to overcome that. My car is set up pretty neutral with some slight off throttle/light braking oversteer because that HPP is still engaged on the brakes. When the tires are hot, it works very well trail braking into corners, wel enough to make Big Brain Bradley giggle
- Speaking of brakes: I'm on stock calipers and rotors, I added stainless lines, the Tyrolsport stiffening kit, and better fluid and pads. The brakes are a very strong point of the car and surprise people. The pedal sometimes has some travel and I recommend a quick tap then apply the force you want. It should feel like you are putting your foot against a wall. Folks have tried replacing the master, slave, etc. and that "lag" is still there, even on big brake kits AFAIK with fresh fluid and fresh bleed. Maybe someone's resolved this as I have not looked in a couple years; I just learned to live with it.
- I am betting those coils are pretty similar to the H&R RSS setup, maybe with different spring rates? If so, that's a great track set up. It's not too low IIRC and has great balance. I have not driven an R on those coils, but everything I read about them is positive on track. They are stiff on the street. I've had 5-6 different suspension set ups, not counting the various spring combos I tried with the KW ClubSports. For autox, 700# front and 1100# rear was the ticket, but that's a different animal than track days.
- Tires. It will perform gloriously on 255 ultra super whatever the hot summer tire of the year is; just read reviews for ones that can handle heat - that weight over the front gets them hot. Rotate them often. I think I have Hankook RS4s on my track/fun set of 17x9s. For your first track day, I wouldn't recommend race rubber, as they need to get warm to work well and have a harsher cliff when they go off. Check with NASA as well, some orgs don't let beginner groups run race tires. If and when you do run race tires, I recommend 275s and a healthy stash of cash as you will like them on this car A LOT. It takes the point and shoot nature of the car and turns it up a couple of notches. AWD, that much sticky rubber (and for me, the diff and HPP) can power through a lot of things. It also looks sexy as hell
User avatar
stripethree
Chief Patty Officer
Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 1273
Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2017 3:01 pm
Drives: '04 R32, '90 Miata, '17 CB300F
Location: Austin, TX

Also, tell me more about this Miata. I had an S2000 and now have a '90 NA. It could not be further from the R32 but is a much more cost-effective toy.
User avatar
Barnes93cb
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3401
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 7:20 am
Drives: Turbro Go Kart/ Yamaha Bolt
Location: West Tejas

stripethree wrote:Also, tell me more about this Miata. I had an S2000 and now have a '90 NA. It could not be further from the R32 but is a much more cost-effective toy.
Thanks for the r32 info. I’ll have to reread your post a few time to take it all in.

My Miata is an nb1 with a stock engine. I have the flyin Miata turbo kit with the voodoo box fuel controller. So still stock ecu limiting my power to about 150. 15x8 advanti storm wheels with falken azenis tires. Flying Miata extreme coil overs. Hard dog roll and harness bars.

Overall the Miata is fun to drive. But it’s constantly having minor issues that make ownership less than enjoyable. I blew the original engine up at 118k and swapped an unknown junkyard motor in the week before I moved across the country. The replacement engine needs to be rebuilt. But I think I’m just going to keep it running for a few months and sell it for cheap this spring. The interior is falling apart. And my clear coat around the gas cap is peeling. Also loads of vacuum and oil leaks I’m just not motivated to fix. I’m actually selling off all the parts I ordered years ago and never installed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
User avatar
goIftdibrad
Chief Master Soft Brain
Chief Master Soft Brain
Posts: 16746
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:01 am
Drives: straight past the apex

Barnes93cb wrote: Thu Jan 16, 2020 11:14 pm
stripethree wrote:Also, tell me more about this Miata. I had an S2000 and now have a '90 NA. It could not be further from the R32 but is a much more cost-effective toy.
Thanks for the r32 info. I’ll have to reread your post a few time to take it all in.

My Miata is an nb1 with a stock engine. I have the flyin Miata turbo kit with the voodoo box fuel controller. So still stock ecu limiting my power to about 150. 15x8 advanti storm wheels with falken azenis tires. Flying Miata extreme coil overs. Hard dog roll and harness bars.

Overall the Miata is fun to drive. But it’s constantly having minor issues that make ownership less than enjoyable. I blew the original engine up at 118k and swapped an unknown junkyard motor in the week before I moved across the country. The replacement engine needs to be rebuilt. But I think I’m just going to keep it running for a few months and sell it for cheap this spring. The interior is falling apart. And my clear coat around the gas cap is peeling. Also loads of vacuum and oil leaks I’m just not motivated to fix. I’m actually selling off all the parts I ordered years ago and never installed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm listening
brain go brrrrrr
User avatar
stripethree
Chief Patty Officer
Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 1273
Joined: Sat Aug 26, 2017 3:01 pm
Drives: '04 R32, '90 Miata, '17 CB300F
Location: Austin, TX

Big Brain Bradley wrote: I'm listening
:fuckyeah:




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
User avatar
Barnes93cb
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3401
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 7:20 am
Drives: Turbro Go Kart/ Yamaha Bolt
Location: West Tejas

Big Brain Bradley wrote: Fri Jan 17, 2020 9:37 am
Barnes93cb wrote: Thu Jan 16, 2020 11:14 pm
Thanks for the r32 info. I’ll have to reread your post a few time to take it all in.

My Miata is an nb1 with a stock engine. I have the flyin Miata turbo kit with the voodoo box fuel controller. So still stock ecu limiting my power to about 150. 15x8 advanti storm wheels with falken azenis tires. Flying Miata extreme coil overs. Hard dog roll and harness bars.

Overall the Miata is fun to drive. But it’s constantly having minor issues that make ownership less than enjoyable. I blew the original engine up at 118k and swapped an unknown junkyard motor in the week before I moved across the country. The replacement engine needs to be rebuilt. But I think I’m just going to keep it running for a few months and sell it for cheap this spring. The interior is falling apart. And my clear coat around the gas cap is peeling. Also loads of vacuum and oil leaks I’m just not motivated to fix. I’m actually selling off all the parts I ordered years ago and never installed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm listening
You want the shitty car? Or just the parts?
User avatar
goIftdibrad
Chief Master Soft Brain
Chief Master Soft Brain
Posts: 16746
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:01 am
Drives: straight past the apex

Barnes93cb wrote: Fri Jan 17, 2020 10:25 am
Big Brain Bradley wrote: Fri Jan 17, 2020 9:37 am

I'm listening
You want the shitty car? Or just the parts?
how cheap? what year? I thought it was an nb
brain go brrrrrr
User avatar
Barnes93cb
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3401
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 7:20 am
Drives: Turbro Go Kart/ Yamaha Bolt
Location: West Tejas

Big Brain Bradley wrote: Fri Jan 17, 2020 11:26 am
Barnes93cb wrote: Fri Jan 17, 2020 10:25 am

You want the shitty car? Or just the parts?
how cheap? what year? I thought it was an nb
Honestly the car is worth nearly nothing as a whole. I dont have the title. I havent put a price on it to see what it sells for as is. Parting out its worth a few grand.
But the car is a 1999 red nb1. I have a build thread somewhere on here with photos.
User avatar
goIftdibrad
Chief Master Soft Brain
Chief Master Soft Brain
Posts: 16746
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:01 am
Drives: straight past the apex

Barnes93cb wrote: Fri Jan 17, 2020 2:35 pm
Big Brain Bradley wrote: Fri Jan 17, 2020 11:26 am

how cheap? what year? I thought it was an nb
Honestly the car is worth nearly nothing as a whole. I dont have the title. I havent put a price on it to see what it sells for as is. Parting out its worth a few grand.
But the car is a 1999 red nb1. I have a build thread somewhere on here with photos.
I've followed.... why no title? it will have to be a hard pass with no title
brain go brrrrrr
User avatar
Acid666
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3349
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:47 am
Drives: 02 Z06/95 Meowta/05 SilveraDOE

stripethree wrote: Thu Jan 16, 2020 9:30 pm
Barnes93cb wrote: Thu Jan 16, 2020 2:14 pm Im just saying if you come to the track day. You would be my first DFD :meat: up. And we get to race R32s. Im in HPDE 1 btw. First track day.
Cool. Even though I haven't run NASA in a while, I imagine I could swing HPDE3. Still though, would be cool to :meat: up. I need to get my shit together with the parts coming between today and the weekend and we'll see how things go.
Barnes93cb wrote: Thu Jan 16, 2020 2:12 pm So youre telling me the nearly solid mounts and bushings in my car would be harsh? What about H&R Race custom valved coilovers(with unknown specs)?

This car corners great from what I can tell. But its certainly stiff and I cant use all the potential yet.
Yes. In fact, I would keep a keen eye on that dogbone mount (the one that is under the car and bolts to the subframe) if this car sees anything other than a decently smooth track. I have gone through 7 of them including high dollar shit like VF. I have never and will never do a solid one as that would end badly at rallyx, it would probably end up ripping it right out of the subframe, which I have seen happen. That mount is the weakest part of the front of the car IMHO. I am currently using an OEM mount with BFI yellow bushings and ECS' red poly center bushing.

I'll vouch for the dog bone mount. Make sure you watch it. I loved how much wheel spin mine ate, but then I got under the car and took a look at things, probably when I was doing an oil change.... and the massive 3" OD X 3/16" washer that held it in was bent from the dogbone material trying to force it's way out wherever it had space. The washer looked like a fucking taco
Post Reply