My brake on the truck were toast. The inside pad wore much faster than the outside. While replacing them, I noticed how bad the front tires are. Completely smooth on inside edge.
About to head to Costco for $890 OTD Michelin LTXs
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Official Dubshowing: Garage On My Level
It stops nicely now. No more crunchy.
Those are Miata fitment bbzzzz. If I ever get another Miata? Hub won't clear e30.
Fairly large progress update but no real pics.
Rabbit fired up and ran after 8 years of down time. It idles and I just need to wizard up some intake tube. The ignition settings need some adjusting and I am very novice level in tuner studio/megasquirt. I have no real point of reference or guide book as Im in the far end of DIY homebrewing efi on an old ass motor, with no help guide for the type of trigger im using for spark. Email sent to some tuner gurus for 16v megasquirt shit.
Appointment set with an actual tuner to get it safe and driveable. Then the engine build will finally happen! All parts have been sitting for 9+ years.
Forged rods/pistons. 11.5:1 CR. Autotech cams. Head work. Bored from 82.5mm to 83.5mm.
The was sadly assaulted by my fucking s over last week. While sitting in the carport the dogs got bored and decided for unknown reasons to JUMP all over my car. Scratches EVERYWHERE. Straight to the best detail some in town. $1400 for a 5 year ceramic coating and all the correction work.
but atleast the car will look great when done.
Rabbit fired up and ran after 8 years of down time. It idles and I just need to wizard up some intake tube. The ignition settings need some adjusting and I am very novice level in tuner studio/megasquirt. I have no real point of reference or guide book as Im in the far end of DIY homebrewing efi on an old ass motor, with no help guide for the type of trigger im using for spark. Email sent to some tuner gurus for 16v megasquirt shit.
Appointment set with an actual tuner to get it safe and driveable. Then the engine build will finally happen! All parts have been sitting for 9+ years.
Forged rods/pistons. 11.5:1 CR. Autotech cams. Head work. Bored from 82.5mm to 83.5mm.
The was sadly assaulted by my fucking s over last week. While sitting in the carport the dogs got bored and decided for unknown reasons to JUMP all over my car. Scratches EVERYWHERE. Straight to the best detail some in town. $1400 for a 5 year ceramic coating and all the correction work.
but atleast the car will look great when done.
Startup vid
Startup https://imgur.com/a/CTQP5aI
Startup https://imgur.com/a/CTQP5aI
Wow, that is really a bummer about the s.dubshow wrote: ↑Mon Oct 28, 2019 3:29 pm Fairly large progress update but no real pics.
Rabbit fired up and ran after 8 years of down time. It idles and I just need to wizard up some intake tube. The ignition settings need some adjusting and I am very novice level in tuner studio/megasquirt. I have no real point of reference or guide book as Im in the far end of DIY homebrewing efi on an old ass motor, with no help guide for the type of trigger im using for spark. Email sent to some tuner gurus for 16v megasquirt shit.
Appointment set with an actual tuner to get it safe and driveable. Then the engine build will finally happen! All parts have been sitting for 9+ years.
Forged rods/pistons. 11.5:1 CR. Autotech cams. Head work. Bored from 82.5mm to 83.5mm.
The was sadly assaulted by my fucking s over last week. While sitting in the carport the dogs got bored and decided for unknown reasons to JUMP all over my car. Scratches EVERYWHERE. Straight to the best detail some in town. $1400 for a 5 year ceramic coating and all the correction work.
but atleast the car will look great when done.
Why are you tuning the Rabbit prior to the build, out of curiosity?
To work any kinks out since im in uncharted territory. I have no real base ignition OR fuel values/tables. I have lots of custom parts. I dont want to a brand new engine on a bad or faulty setup/install.D Griff wrote: ↑Mon Oct 28, 2019 5:05 pmWow, that is really a bummer about the s.dubshow wrote: ↑Mon Oct 28, 2019 3:29 pm Fairly large progress update but no real pics.
Rabbit fired up and ran after 8 years of down time. It idles and I just need to wizard up some intake tube. The ignition settings need some adjusting and I am very novice level in tuner studio/megasquirt. I have no real point of reference or guide book as Im in the far end of DIY homebrewing efi on an old ass motor, with no help guide for the type of trigger im using for spark. Email sent to some tuner gurus for 16v megasquirt shit.
Appointment set with an actual tuner to get it safe and driveable. Then the engine build will finally happen! All parts have been sitting for 9+ years.
Forged rods/pistons. 11.5:1 CR. Autotech cams. Head work. Bored from 82.5mm to 83.5mm.
The was sadly assaulted by my fucking s over last week. While sitting in the carport the dogs got bored and decided for unknown reasons to JUMP all over my car. Scratches EVERYWHERE. Straight to the best detail some in town. $1400 for a 5 year ceramic coating and all the correction work.
but atleast the car will look great when done.
Why are you tuning the Rabbit prior to the build, out of curiosity?
some better updates with pics:
GO GO CAMBER HOVER
It's all together. Need to clean up some of the wiring and fix the poprivs in the hood latch.
going to 3d print some sort of adapter bracket for the coil mount but I like them right here for now.
I will do another write up on using the trick USRT adapter. I really like this piece. Im in the final step of figuring out my timing angle offset. I REALLY wish there was a good set mark like the miata. I know the 6 BTDC mark but its really hard to see on the flywheel.
FPR doing its thing. I've had good luck with it sitting at 50psi for these bosch injectors. I WAY over thought the last connections. The steel fuel line is best left for a simple slip fit 5/16" hose for EFI. Using AN fitting and line was overkill and leaked.
New fuel pump, filler neck and fuel line after cleaning out all the nasty tank from sitting for 7 years.
Last step will be a mk2 cluster swap to get a tach and then cleaning up some interior wiring.
the old ms2 3.57 was modified by my friend Corey down in Ocean Springs/Biloxi. Dude is a wiz at megasquirt stuff.
This axle has ONE stripped bolt head... got to love triple square. Took a while and some cursing but I was able to cut it off and got the new axle in.
GO GO CAMBER HOVER
It's all together. Need to clean up some of the wiring and fix the poprivs in the hood latch.
going to 3d print some sort of adapter bracket for the coil mount but I like them right here for now.
I will do another write up on using the trick USRT adapter. I really like this piece. Im in the final step of figuring out my timing angle offset. I REALLY wish there was a good set mark like the miata. I know the 6 BTDC mark but its really hard to see on the flywheel.
FPR doing its thing. I've had good luck with it sitting at 50psi for these bosch injectors. I WAY over thought the last connections. The steel fuel line is best left for a simple slip fit 5/16" hose for EFI. Using AN fitting and line was overkill and leaked.
New fuel pump, filler neck and fuel line after cleaning out all the nasty tank from sitting for 7 years.
Last step will be a mk2 cluster swap to get a tach and then cleaning up some interior wiring.
the old ms2 3.57 was modified by my friend Corey down in Ocean Springs/Biloxi. Dude is a wiz at megasquirt stuff.
This axle has ONE stripped bolt head... got to love triple square. Took a while and some cursing but I was able to cut it off and got the new axle in.
curious is good. Ive done tons of reading on the best cluster setup options. I could also grab one from a cabriolet. They all will have different wiring and id need the pigtails to make them work. Junk yards are in short supply of these cars too.
i got the wrong effing axle. Not sure if rockauto screw up or my own. Alas the out end was the wrong OD (prolly from a corrado) and bound in the hub.
Hopefully the new one will be in wednesday and it fits...
Hopefully the new one will be in wednesday and it fits...
I finished up the rabbit, it rolls and drives. Now to learn about tuning. After the axle debacle with the cv binding in the spindle, I took a die grinder and did some fine work. I ordered a new hub and bearing as well but can replace that later.
Did an oil change and also pulled the ATF out of trans, it wasnt too dirty but did clean the internals a bit. Replaced with some lucas 80w-90 that met the old spec.
bleed the front brakes while at it.
It was running old digi2 bosch ev1 injectors. After the first sputter around and guessing several times at dead time, the car was really unhappy. I suspected it was randomly going lean to be a fuel issue. I pulled the manifold down along with the inline fuel filter. Lot of crude clogged the old injectors up. Pulled and replaced with the nice modern early 1.8t EV12 injectors. They are about 27lbs/hr at 45psi. The car fired RIGHT up and was much happier with the better/clean injectors. I think autotune will have a chance.
I made a lap around the block but it was going lean again. I saw some fuel dripping around the rear and sure enough the accumulator is wet. The new pump was also making some death noises. Im going to delete the accumulator but alas, I have braided lines and metric connections. Will be a bit more involved than just swapping some hose.
more fun! Im dedicating a raspberry pi 3+ b to run tuner studio. Im making a budget "pi dash" with a 7" touch screen. Got the pi loaded up with tuna studio and started 3d printing a minimal case to hide in the car somewhere.
Did an oil change and also pulled the ATF out of trans, it wasnt too dirty but did clean the internals a bit. Replaced with some lucas 80w-90 that met the old spec.
bleed the front brakes while at it.
It was running old digi2 bosch ev1 injectors. After the first sputter around and guessing several times at dead time, the car was really unhappy. I suspected it was randomly going lean to be a fuel issue. I pulled the manifold down along with the inline fuel filter. Lot of crude clogged the old injectors up. Pulled and replaced with the nice modern early 1.8t EV12 injectors. They are about 27lbs/hr at 45psi. The car fired RIGHT up and was much happier with the better/clean injectors. I think autotune will have a chance.
I made a lap around the block but it was going lean again. I saw some fuel dripping around the rear and sure enough the accumulator is wet. The new pump was also making some death noises. Im going to delete the accumulator but alas, I have braided lines and metric connections. Will be a bit more involved than just swapping some hose.
more fun! Im dedicating a raspberry pi 3+ b to run tuner studio. Im making a budget "pi dash" with a 7" touch screen. Got the pi loaded up with tuna studio and started 3d printing a minimal case to hide in the car somewhere.
since everyone is pretty much and also likely has little knowledge of setting up standalone/megasquirt esp pertaining to old ass 16v vw motors... I'll just copy pasta my woes of getting rabbit driveable. It starts and what not but the ignition timing aint working right. It runs just fine while retarded timing but that causes headers to glow very quickly (under 3 mins of idle). compression is good. motor is checked to be in time.
updates on trying to get the ignition set.
1. I have a new LUK flywheel and apparently the factory timing marks for TDC and 6 BTDC are not marked/missing. It does have the special tool spots. I was able to measure from that back and get pretty close to setting my ign timing/offset in Tunerstudio. The offset worked out to around -5.5 deg to hit the mark at flywheel with light. Set back to adv table from fixed.
Issue:
Idling at about 900 rpm with afr around 14.5-15 the CLT temp gets hot too quick and under 3 mins the header starts glowing. Even with a fixed advance of 6 it quickly glows. This screams too retarded on ign. If I set the offset to 0 or even +1, cold start is near impossible and it gets pops in the intake. But at that offset range, while warm, the headers dont get red. I know glowing headers can also be a over fuel issue causing fuel to ignite in the header. The AFR is saying its lean tho at around 15, so Im ruling out too much fuel.
I will have to go back to basics and recheck fuel and everything. Im also going to set the cranking advance to 5 (down from 10). Once I get all these setting locked in, I plan to share with everyone since this is a hodgepodge of miata CAS trigger settings and using VW needed values.
I will also look into the warm up enrichment values to help with cold starting. The tables I am using to get started at the ones from spitfire which everyone says are conservative. I might scale back the fuel VE tables since its asking for around 65-70 in the idle area.
Starting point will be crank signal set to 400 rpm.
Injector dead time time set to 1ms (cant find a solid value to use for ms2)
Crank adv set to 0 or maybe 5?
- 4zilch
- First Sirloin
- Posts: 6241
- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 8:42 am
- Drives: Ford Party ST
- Location: God’s Country
Lean will cause headers to glow as well. 15:1 is pretty lean. I don't know how your tuner works, but could you target 12.5/13:1 for idle and see what happens. I know zilch about that particular engine and how sensitive they are to timing, but in my experience, a timing issue more often than not would present itself in a poorly running engine.
As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...
thanks for outside lookin in. The ign timing factory spec is within 4-8 deg btdc, so there is a generous range for me to hit.4zilch wrote: ↑Thu Nov 21, 2019 12:29 pm Lean will cause headers to glow as well. 15:1 is pretty lean. I don't know how your tuner works, but could you target 12.5/13:1 for idle and see what happens. I know zilch about that particular engine and how sensitive they are to timing, but in my experience, a timing issue more often than not would present itself in a poorly running engine.
When it had more fuel going in to it and hitting around 13.1 at idle of 1k rpm, headers still glowed. I figured a more near 14.7 idle was desirable and have gotten mixed info. says it should be nearly stoich (14.7) or near the lean side. Guy that helped me rebuild/wire car says it should be closer to 13 at idle.
I have a target afr table and will likely set everything the 13.5 and see what happens.
- 4zilch
- First Sirloin
- Posts: 6241
- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 8:42 am
- Drives: Ford Party ST
- Location: God’s Country
Stoic his fine if you need to pass emissions, but generally is a bit on the lean side of things if you’re tuning for power or drivability. Factory cars do this because the engines are pretty tame and they’ve got millions of dollars in engineering resources to tune them (and they need to pass emissions)dubshow wrote: ↑Thu Nov 21, 2019 1:20 pmthanks for outside lookin in. The ign timing factory spec is within 4-8 deg btdc, so there is a generous range for me to hit.4zilch wrote: ↑Thu Nov 21, 2019 12:29 pm Lean will cause headers to glow as well. 15:1 is pretty lean. I don't know how your tuner works, but could you target 12.5/13:1 for idle and see what happens. I know zilch about that particular engine and how sensitive they are to timing, but in my experience, a timing issue more often than not would present itself in a poorly running engine.
When it had more fuel going in to it and hitting around 13.1 at idle of 1k rpm, headers still glowed. I figured a more near 14.7 idle was desirable and have gotten mixed info. says it should be nearly stoich (14.7) or near the lean side. Guy that helped me rebuild/wire car says it should be closer to 13 at idle.
I have a target afr table and will likely set everything the 13.5 and see what happens.
Id take a look at the plugs and see if there’s any obvious conditions present - sometimes idle isn’t the best for reading plugs, but if it’s way rich or lean, itll be apparent
Target a richer mixture and retest - personally I’d go way richer than even 13:1 just to see how much things improve - review plugs and headers -
If no improvement check time again
If timing checked and still no improvement you might consider doing a cylinder leak down test and make sure it’s not a leaky exhaust valve or something weird.
As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...
ECU was actually doing exactly what it was told on targets. For some reason, with specs, the AFR target table TS make is pretty lean. Will post. Update in post below.4zilch wrote: ↑Fri Nov 22, 2019 6:59 amStoic his fine if you need to pass emissions, but generally is a bit on the lean side of things if you’re tuning for power or drivability. Factory cars do this because the engines are pretty tame and they’ve got millions of dollars in engineering resources to tune them (and they need to pass emissions)dubshow wrote: ↑Thu Nov 21, 2019 1:20 pm
thanks for outside lookin in. The ign timing factory spec is within 4-8 deg btdc, so there is a generous range for me to hit.
When it had more fuel going in to it and hitting around 13.1 at idle of 1k rpm, headers still glowed. I figured a more near 14.7 idle was desirable and have gotten mixed info. says it should be nearly stoich (14.7) or near the lean side. Guy that helped me rebuild/wire car says it should be closer to 13 at idle.
I have a target afr table and will likely set everything the 13.5 and see what happens.
Id take a look at the plugs and see if there’s any obvious conditions present - sometimes idle isn’t the best for reading plugs, but if it’s way rich or lean, itll be apparent
Target a richer mixture and retest - personally I’d go way richer than even 13:1 just to see how much things improve - review plugs and headers -
If no improvement check time again
If timing checked and still no improvement you might consider doing a cylinder leak down test and make sure it’s not a leaky exhaust valve or something weird.