Obligatory C5 Thread
- ChrisoftheNorth
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This is a fantastic development.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Acid666
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I highly suggest 2 things. 1) spend the extra cash to get your headers ceramic coated. It removes an unreal amount of heat from the engine bay. So much that after doing mine I'm dead set on coating every set of headers in any race car I build from here on out.
2) buy new motor mounts. I bought my z06 with 70k miles and i thought I'd be fine. But once i got down to the bottom of the motor I learned that my motor mounts were basically spinning tops and not really holding shit down. A pair of the Hinson c5 mounts is about $200. It sucks to do routine maintenance, but it's definitely something you dont want to have to do twice. Because once you get those headers in, you won't want to remove them to do the mounts later. It adds 5 minutes to the job that's easily a 5 hour minimum anyways.
Were you able to do the headers without a lift?Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 12:30 pm
I highly suggest 2 things. 1) spend the extra cash to get your headers ceramic coated. It removes an unreal amount of heat from the engine bay. So much that after doing mine I'm dead set on coating every set of headers in any race car I build from here on out.
2) buy new motor mounts. I bought my z06 with 70k miles and i thought I'd be fine. But once i got down to the bottom of the motor I learned that my motor mounts were basically spinning tops and not really holding shit down. A pair of the Hinson c5 mounts is about $200. It sucks to do routine maintenance, but it's definitely something you dont want to have to do twice. Because once you get those headers in, you won't want to remove them to do the mounts later. It adds 5 minutes to the job that's easily a 5 hour minimum anyways.
- ChrisoftheNorth
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I don't do mine on a lift.D Griff wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 12:32 pmWere you able to do the headers without a lift?Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 12:30 pm
I highly suggest 2 things. 1) spend the extra cash to get your headers ceramic coated. It removes an unreal amount of heat from the engine bay. So much that after doing mine I'm dead set on coating every set of headers in any race car I build from here on out.
2) buy new motor mounts. I bought my z06 with 70k miles and i thought I'd be fine. But once i got down to the bottom of the motor I learned that my motor mounts were basically spinning tops and not really holding shit down. A pair of the Hinson c5 mounts is about $200. It sucks to do routine maintenance, but it's definitely something you dont want to have to do twice. Because once you get those headers in, you won't want to remove them to do the mounts later. It adds 5 minutes to the job that's easily a 5 hour minimum anyways.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Acid666
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D Griff wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 12:32 pmWere you able to do the headers without a lift?Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 12:30 pm
I highly suggest 2 things. 1) spend the extra cash to get your headers ceramic coated. It removes an unreal amount of heat from the engine bay. So much that after doing mine I'm dead set on coating every set of headers in any race car I build from here on out.
2) buy new motor mounts. I bought my z06 with 70k miles and i thought I'd be fine. But once i got down to the bottom of the motor I learned that my motor mounts were basically spinning tops and not really holding shit down. A pair of the Hinson c5 mounts is about $200. It sucks to do routine maintenance, but it's definitely something you dont want to have to do twice. Because once you get those headers in, you won't want to remove them to do the mounts later. It adds 5 minutes to the job that's easily a 5 hour minimum anyways.
I have a quick jack
I'd love to get one... but I could probably get it up that high with the right stands/jack. I am contemplating doing header install when I go through my car and do a light restoration next year... the help with cooling would be huge as well as the additional powah.
- Acid666
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D Griff wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 3:14 pm
I'd love to get one... but I could probably get it up that high with the right stands/jack. I am contemplating doing header install when I go through my car and do a light restoration next year... the help with cooling would be huge as well as the additional powah.
I think the QJ lifts something like 21", which is pretty high for jack stands. It's not just the height tho, it's the fact that it does it in seconds, and then you can lock it halfway, or slam that bitch to the ground all in a heartbeat. I found that I was moving the car up and down (since I had that luxury) and didn't have to stand on step stools and other shit from it being so high and having to lean over the fender and then reach way down. So the advantage isn't only the height, it's the freedom of being able to go back and forth quickly.
Oh yeah, I def want one. but worth it. I should be getting a garage of some kind within the next six or so months, so we'll see what happens.Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 3:45 pmD Griff wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 3:14 pm
I'd love to get one... but I could probably get it up that high with the right stands/jack. I am contemplating doing header install when I go through my car and do a light restoration next year... the help with cooling would be huge as well as the additional powah.
I think the QJ lifts something like 21", which is pretty high for jack stands. It's not just the height tho, it's the fact that it does it in seconds, and then you can lock it halfway, or slam that bitch to the ground all in a heartbeat. I found that I was moving the car up and down (since I had that luxury) and didn't have to stand on step stools and other shit from it being so high and having to lean over the fender and then reach way down. So the advantage isn't only the height, it's the freedom of being able to go back and forth quickly.
- Acid666
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When I build my shop I'm going straight up with a 2 post lift. No more games. Gonna be a full service airboat mechanic shop. Complete with launch ramp straight into the Vermilion and tie downs all the way down the block.D Griff wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 3:51 pmOh yeah, I def want one. but worth it. I should be getting a garage of some kind within the next six or so months, so we'll see what happens.Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 3:45 pm
I think the QJ lifts something like 21", which is pretty high for jack stands. It's not just the height tho, it's the fact that it does it in seconds, and then you can lock it halfway, or slam that bitch to the ground all in a heartbeat. I found that I was moving the car up and down (since I had that luxury) and didn't have to stand on step stools and other shit from it being so high and having to lean over the fender and then reach way down. So the advantage isn't only the height, it's the freedom of being able to go back and forth quickly.
- Desertbreh
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They have the BLX5000, a $1450 retail item, for $999 at Costco.D Griff wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 3:14 pmI'd love to get one... but I could probably get it up that high with the right stands/jack. I am contemplating doing header install when I go through my car and do a light restoration next year... the help with cooling would be huge as well as the additional powah.
- Acid666
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And if you do get one, I'd highly recommend the 5000 and not the 3,500. You'll have people wanting you to lift their shit to "help out", and my crew cab is right at 5,000 pounds so I can use it on anything in my fleet of trash-mobiles.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 4:53 pm
They have the BLX5000, a $1450 retail item, for $999 at Costco.
The rating is really for the pump. The actual lifting part of it can hold a shit ton more weight, but the pump can't really push them up. So the price difference is mainly for a stronger pump.
- CaleDeRoo
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Pick up a oil pressure switch from NAPA on the way home. Wholesale price was $60 so the guy just rang one up for some truck for like $28. My car sounded pretty damn good today. Pops and gurgles were louder than normal.
That is somewhat stomachable at that rate, seems worth it. I’ll have to find someone with a Costco membershit.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 4:53 pmThey have the BLX5000, a $1450 retail item, for $999 at Costco.D Griff wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 3:14 pm
I'd love to get one... but I could probably get it up that high with the right stands/jack. I am contemplating doing header install when I go through my car and do a light restoration next year... the help with cooling would be huge as well as the additional powah.
it’s not a bad job and the C5 actually uses metal clips so they don’t break. I’ve taken that panel off a couple of times (don’t even recall why the other occasions) and it still fits “well”.
Think of all the redline shifts you could do later today!
idk about the ceramic coating. I'm def gonna buy the most ebay headers I can find & possibly wrap them. but, that's a big maybe.Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 12:30 pm
I highly suggest 2 things. 1) spend the extra cash to get your headers ceramic coated. It removes an unreal amount of heat from the engine bay. So much that after doing mine I'm dead set on coating every set of headers in any race car I build from here on out.
2) buy new motor mounts. I bought my z06 with 70k miles and i thought I'd be fine. But once i got down to the bottom of the motor I learned that my motor mounts were basically spinning tops and not really holding shit down. A pair of the Hinson c5 mounts is about $200. It sucks to do routine maintenance, but it's definitely something you dont want to have to do twice. Because once you get those headers in, you won't want to remove them to do the mounts later. It adds 5 minutes to the job that's easily a 5 hour minimum anyways.
how hard was the motor mounts to do? I don't really want to disconnect the engine for the TT to do the mounts.
- Acid666
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Purpc5z wrote: ↑Sun Sep 01, 2019 2:12 pmidk about the ceramic coating. I'm def gonna buy the most ebay headers I can find & possibly wrap them. but, that's a big maybe.Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 30, 2019 12:30 pm
I highly suggest 2 things. 1) spend the extra cash to get your headers ceramic coated. It removes an unreal amount of heat from the engine bay. So much that after doing mine I'm dead set on coating every set of headers in any race car I build from here on out.
2) buy new motor mounts. I bought my z06 with 70k miles and i thought I'd be fine. But once i got down to the bottom of the motor I learned that my motor mounts were basically spinning tops and not really holding shit down. A pair of the Hinson c5 mounts is about $200. It sucks to do routine maintenance, but it's definitely something you dont want to have to do twice. Because once you get those headers in, you won't want to remove them to do the mounts later. It adds 5 minutes to the job that's easily a 5 hour minimum anyways.
how hard was the motor mounts to do? I don't really want to disconnect the engine for the TT to do the mounts.
There's a high probability that you will likely have to loosen the motor mounts to move the engine up an inch or two to help get the headers in. So it's a no brainers to just remove the whole bracket once the stock manifolds are off. It's so easy to get to, and you're not going to want to do it again just to get to where the motor mounts are when you find that you actually do need to replace them later
ahhh okay. I'll probably end up doing mounts while i'm there. did you do poly mounts? how much of a difference does it make?Acid666 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 01, 2019 5:14 pm
There's a high probability that you will likely have to loosen the motor mounts to move the engine up an inch or two to help get the headers in. So it's a no brainers to just remove the whole bracket once the stock manifolds are off. It's so easy to get to, and you're not going to want to do it again just to get to where the motor mounts are when you find that you actually do need to replace them later
- Acid666
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I have the Hinson ones after Detroit suggested them.Purpc5z wrote: ↑Tue Sep 03, 2019 11:00 amahhh okay. I'll probably end up doing mounts while i'm there. did you do poly mounts? how much of a difference does it make?Acid666 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 01, 2019 5:14 pm
There's a high probability that you will likely have to loosen the motor mounts to move the engine up an inch or two to help get the headers in. So it's a no brainers to just remove the whole bracket once the stock manifolds are off. It's so easy to get to, and you're not going to want to do it again just to get to where the motor mounts are when you find that you actually do need to replace them later
https://www.hinsonsupercars.com/p-1285- ... 6-gto.aspx
There might be a little more vibration but I really don't notice. Once I got in there and had stupid easy access to the mounts, I was glad I had the replacements on hands because when I removed one the rubber was completely separated and all it was doing was holding the engine to the car, and not absorbing any of the shaking.
Same shit for my Miata, I'm swapping motors and replaced the motor mounts yesterday. Rubber was completely worthless with how many miles its got on it. Miata ones were cheap tho, the C5 cost nearly $200, but trust me not having to deal with the headache of removing that shit twice is worth the cost of routine maintenance on that part.
- ChrisoftheNorth
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Absolutely do the mounts while in there. I'm running poly mounts, and the increase in NVH is noticeable, but the power delivery feels more direct, whether true or not.Purpc5z wrote: ↑Tue Sep 03, 2019 11:00 amahhh okay. I'll probably end up doing mounts while i'm there. did you do poly mounts? how much of a difference does it make?Acid666 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 01, 2019 5:14 pm
There's a high probability that you will likely have to loosen the motor mounts to move the engine up an inch or two to help get the headers in. So it's a no brainers to just remove the whole bracket once the stock manifolds are off. It's so easy to get to, and you're not going to want to do it again just to get to where the motor mounts are when you find that you actually do need to replace them later
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.