You're not going to blow up a motor before 50k. Which is notgonnahappen until you retire.Johnny_P wrote: ↑Thu Aug 02, 2018 2:31 pmStock tune is dangerous af, fam. Gotta go stage 2 for safety. Also change out that oil, Subaru specs the wrong weight they don't even know what oil to put in this engine.
Honestly if I blew up my motor I'd get a long block from IAG and shoot for 600 HP for less than a dealer installed new EJ.
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max225 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 02, 2018 2:39 pmYou're not going to blow up a motor before 50k. Which is notgonnahappen until you retire.Johnny_P wrote: ↑Thu Aug 02, 2018 2:31 pm
Stock tune is dangerous af, fam. Gotta go stage 2 for safety. Also change out that oil, Subaru specs the wrong weight they don't even know what oil to put in this engine.
Honestly if I blew up my motor I'd get a long block from IAG and shoot for 600 HP for less than a dealer installed new EJ.
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Had an absolute blast with the car this morning. Had a PT appointment way out in the burbs, which gave me a chance to let the thing loose on all of the glassy, roundabout-equipped roads in America's finest place to live, Carmel, IN. Brap up to 60, brake late and heel-toe to second just before arcing through the roundabout and running back up to nearly 60 at the top of second before settling back down closer to the speed limit. Shit you never get to do driving around in the city.
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coogles wrote: ↑Fri Aug 10, 2018 3:35 pm Had an absolute blast with the car this morning. Had a PT appointment way out in the burbs, which gave me a chance to let the thing loose on all of the glassy, roundabout-equipped roads in America's finest place to live, Carmel, IN. Brap up to 60, brake late and heel-toe to second just before arcing through the roundabout and running back up to nearly 60 at the top of second before settling back down closer to the speed limit. Shit you never get to do driving around in the city.
The car is a riot when you can really open it up.
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Johnny_P wrote:
The car is a riot when you can really open it up.
There's one thing about the way this car handles when driven hard that I find strange, though...wondering if you experience the same thing.
On initial turn-in the steering weights up nicely, but mid-corner in longer sweepers the wheel seems to lighten up again and the front sort of wants to dance around. Not sure if that's a symptom of not having enough camber up front or what exactly, but it doesn't feel as planted as I'd like.
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Yes I notice a pendulum. I think it’s the helical LSD. You’ll know when it loses grip because the wheel will get really light. Honestly I love it. Next time you notice it plant your foot a bit more and see how it changes.coogles wrote: ↑Sun Aug 12, 2018 3:16 pmJohnny_P wrote:
The car is a riot when you can really open it up.
There's one thing about the way this car handles when driven hard that I find strange, though...wondering if you experience the same thing.
On initial turn-in the steering weights up nicely, but mid-corner in longer sweepers the wheel seems to lighten up again and the front sort of wants to dance around. Not sure if that's a symptom of not having enough camber up front or what exactly, but it doesn't feel as planted as I'd like.
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It might be the LSD, but I'm experiencing that floaty feeling even at what's probably 7/10ths, it's not (always?) an issue of losing grip. I still think it's an alignment issue, but getting more camber up front would require new top hats...probably the Whiteline Com C mounts, and pulling out rear camber means new LCAs out back, which would all add up to be kind of .Johnny_P wrote:Yes I notice a pendulum. I think it’s the helical LSD. You’ll know when it loses grip because the wheel will get really light. Honestly I love it. Next time you notice it plant your foot a bit more and see how it changes.
In a possible anti- move, though, I'm tossing around the idea of buying out the lease now. Complain though I might about how expensive the car is, there's nothing else I'd rather be driving and if I'm goingto keep the thing, I'm much better off in the long run buying it out now than throwing away $100+ every month on interest floating that residual amount. We shall see. I think it's either I do that, or I'm back to looking for a clean GTI Sport. More than I love driving this car, I love hitting trails with the MTB and I'm ready to on some roof bars so I can do that more easily and and more often with friends. I'm not dropping the $600+ on the 2018 WRX roof trim and Thule bars for a car I'm not going to keep.
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But sure, EJs are reliable.
Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): yes
Reason Given For Denial: "there are only two reasons that this would happen: lack of oil maintenance or over revving, and neither are covered by the factory"
Your Story: I was driving home on Father's Day (06/17) and was merging into highway traffic going somewhat fast (shifted from 3rd to 4th at around 6k). I heard a sound from the engine, shifted to fifth, and the sound went away.
I continued on down the road, heard valve tick from my engine, and tried to get off the interstate. The car shut down a few times on the way over, and by the time I was to the side, it had turned into full on rod knock.
Car was towed to the nearby dearliership, I waited two weeks to get an answer (they gave me a rental only after the first week), and they told me that the warranty repair wasn't covered for the reasons above. I asked what troubleshooting they had done, and they replied that they've only looked at the parts that the field engineer said to look at and have not troubleshot any parts of the car.
I bought the car with 45,000 miles and have changed the oil three times (45k, 50k, and 55k). The Carfax was spotless and showed an oil change every 5k miles. I had changed the oil two weeks before the incident happened--along with the air filter and brakes on the car. I verified when it happened that the car had oil.
SOA told me on 07/17 that the car's warranty was now NOT being denied, but that I would need to make a $1,600 deposit before they would look at the engine to see if it was covered. If it wasn't covered, I would be out the $1,600 and would need to pay another $13,000 to have the engine REPAIRED.
The dealership's director of services said the following, "I completely understand your position, but please understand that there is zero chance that your vehicle’s damage is going to covered by warranty or they will find anything to conclude a manufacturer’s defect was the root cause of the bearing failure, and it is only my personal opinion that you would be wasting your money on a tear down. The reason Subaru of America would participate in this endeavor and agree to pursue this further is to again, further solidify the legal case of denial of warranty coverage of this repair."
No troubleshooting has been done, and I don't want to fork out $1,600 at the chance they will deny it. What should I do?
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Bruh 60k miles is owner #4's problemcoogles wrote: ↑Thu Aug 16, 2018 10:07 am But sure, EJs are reliable.
Submitted For Warranty Work (Yes/No): yes
Reason Given For Denial: "there are only two reasons that this would happen: lack of oil maintenance or over revving, and neither are covered by the factory"
Your Story: I was driving home on Father's Day (06/17) and was merging into highway traffic going somewhat fast (shifted from 3rd to 4th at around 6k). I heard a sound from the engine, shifted to fifth, and the sound went away.
I continued on down the road, heard valve tick from my engine, and tried to get off the interstate. The car shut down a few times on the way over, and by the time I was to the side, it had turned into full on rod knock.
Car was towed to the nearby dearliership, I waited two weeks to get an answer (they gave me a rental only after the first week), and they told me that the warranty repair wasn't covered for the reasons above. I asked what troubleshooting they had done, and they replied that they've only looked at the parts that the field engineer said to look at and have not troubleshot any parts of the car.
I bought the car with 45,000 miles and have changed the oil three times (45k, 50k, and 55k). The Carfax was spotless and showed an oil change every 5k miles. I had changed the oil two weeks before the incident happened--along with the air filter and brakes on the car. I verified when it happened that the car had oil.
SOA told me on 07/17 that the car's warranty was now NOT being denied, but that I would need to make a $1,600 deposit before they would look at the engine to see if it was covered. If it wasn't covered, I would be out the $1,600 and would need to pay another $13,000 to have the engine REPAIRED.
The dealership's director of services said the following, "I completely understand your position, but please understand that there is zero chance that your vehicle’s damage is going to covered by warranty or they will find anything to conclude a manufacturer’s defect was the root cause of the bearing failure, and it is only my personal opinion that you would be wasting your money on a tear down. The reason Subaru of America would participate in this endeavor and agree to pursue this further is to again, further solidify the legal case of denial of warranty coverage of this repair."
No troubleshooting has been done, and I don't want to fork out $1,600 at the chance they will deny it. What should I do?
Having owned a Thule roof rack and a hitch rack... might I suggest the hitch rack?coogles wrote: ↑Sun Aug 12, 2018 8:49 pmIt might be the LSD, but I'm experiencing that floaty feeling even at what's probably 7/10ths, it's not (always?) an issue of losing grip. I still think it's an alignment issue, but getting more camber up front would require new top hats...probably the Whiteline Com C mounts, and pulling out rear camber means new LCAs out back, which would all add up to be kind of .Johnny_P wrote:Yes I notice a pendulum. I think it’s the helical LSD. You’ll know when it loses grip because the wheel will get really light. Honestly I love it. Next time you notice it plant your foot a bit more and see how it changes.
In a possible anti- move, though, I'm tossing around the idea of buying out the lease now. Complain though I might about how expensive the car is, there's nothing else I'd rather be driving and if I'm goingto keep the thing, I'm much better off in the long run buying it out now than throwing away $100+ every month on interest floating that residual amount. We shall see. I think it's either I do that, or I'm back to looking for a clean GTI Sport. More than I love driving this car, I love hitting trails with the MTB and I'm ready to on some roof bars so I can do that more easily and and more often with friends. I'm not dropping the $600+ on the 2018 WRX roof trim and Thule bars for a car I'm not going to keep.
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It's less expensive (can be), doesn't obliterate MPGeees, easier to load/unload, the hitch adds a bit of versatility to the car.
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Your friend still looking for wheels? Not sure what they'd cost to ship, but I'd be willing to check into it if he's willing to pay for shipping.SAWCE wrote:yeah I sent him pictures from your thread yesterday. Keep me posted on how the car sale goes and if they're left over after.
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I’ll ask him again and see if he’s interested.coogles wrote: ↑Sat Sep 01, 2018 3:40 pmYour friend still looking for wheels? Not sure what they'd cost to ship, but I'd be willing to check into it if he's willing to pay for shipping.SAWCE wrote:
yeah I sent him pictures from your thread yesterday. Keep me posted on how the car sale goes and if they're left over after.
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Stopped by the where I bought the GTI to pick up the second key (finally) and my former STi is still on the lot. Sat in it and started it up, and I'll just say...
Seating position still sucks, doe.
Seating position still sucks, doe.
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$36k, they're on drugs. Most comparable cars seem to be listed for ~$34k, which means they're probably getting slightly less than that. I was totally fine giving a dealership $2k of margin on a $33k-$34k car, but if they did manage to get $36k for it I'd be kind of pissed.
Your guess as to what happened to the other key is as good as mine. It was only traded in with one, and I made sure to get it in the paperwork that they owed me a second before I went ahead with anything. Fuckers tried to say they could get me one at their cost, but threatening to walk still seems to work and they gave in. I didn't exactly feel like having to pony up $300 to have a second key programmed.
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Yea a second key is like epic money. Damn 36k is I'd think the market for that particular vehicle is around 30k... Who in their right mind would spend 36?coogles wrote: ↑Mon Sep 10, 2018 2:24 pm$36k, they're on drugs. Most comparable cars seem to be listed for ~$34k, which means they're probably getting slightly less than that. I was totally fine giving a dealership $2k of margin on a $33k-$34k car, but if they did manage to get $36k for it I'd be kind of pissed.
Your guess as to what happened to the other key is as good as mine. It was only traded in with one, and I made sure to get it in the paperwork that they owed me a second before I went ahead with anything. Fuckers tried to say they could get me one at their cost, but threatening to walk still seems to work and they gave in. I didn't exactly feel like having to pony up $300 to have a second key programmed.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/d/ ... 37482.html
32.5k
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/ ... 65896.html
16 for 29.5
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/d/ ... 60289.html
15 is like 28.8 now...
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Well. Your new car is a better all-arounder, keep that in mind. But yeah that would be tough feels. The EJ rumble on startup is probably 25% of why I wanted the car, lol.
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Mine was a '17 Limited with ~10.5k miles.max225 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 10, 2018 2:28 pm Yea a second key is like epic money. Damn 36k is I'd think the market for that particular vehicle is around 30k... Who in their right mind would spend 36?
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/d/ ... 37482.html
32.5k
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/ ... 65896.html
16 for 29.5
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/d/ ... 60289.html
15 is like 28.8 now...
$34k with 15k miles - https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/deta ... /overview/
$34k with 22k miles - https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/deta ... /overview/
$34k with 14k miles - https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/deta ... /overview/
I guess my car has slightly fewer miles than a couple of those, and there are a couple outliers in both directions, but when I saw those listings and got $31.5k I was pretty okay with that.
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Definitely. I don't miss the seating position or the seats themselves in the slightest, but I do miss everything else. That car has the "fizz", the GTI does not. Every control in the GTI is lighter...clutch, shifter, steering. That's fixable with the bleeder block, short shifter, and some control arm bushings, but it'll still be missing the character of the EJ.
Bleeder block and clutch line will go in when I do the brake fluid at 40k, so at least the clutch feel will be improved soon.