Das Auto: VW Chat

Brothers of brub and brap, this is your safe space.
User avatar
Johnny_P
Chief Master Sirloin of the Wasteful Steak
Chief Master Sirloin of the Wasteful Steak
Posts: 40487
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:52 am
Drives: Blue short bus
Location: Philly

Irish wrote: Wed Apr 17, 2019 4:27 pm Ok....I may asking this to the wrong folk as most of you :nope: out of the :mk6: before the warranty was up but.....as many of you know my GIT has some serious farts (pushing 160K :yikes: ) .

I need it to exceed 200k before it's paid off (long story bro). Should I be considering some significant preventative maintenance done on the components that could cause catastrophic failures? Namely, HPFP and Timing Chain?

The last thing I want is to be forced into making payments on a dead car.

That being said I don't want to throw money at non-issues.
I don't think the chain has a specific interval for replacement. I'd probably pony up for the tensioner if you're keeping it for a few more years.

Are you on the original PCV valve? If that shits the bed it takes out the rear main and valve cover and timing cover seals. If you're going in for the timing cover anyways, I'd probably throw a fresh VW OEM PCV on there. Don't get a chinese shit knock off part for that.

You could also install a fresh set of engine mounts. One of the mounts has to come off for the tensioner / timing cover work anyway.

Other than that, at 160k your dampers are likely shot if you haven't replaced them already could be a nice thing to do, but obviously the car is still driveable with worn out shocks.
User avatar
Johnny_P
Chief Master Sirloin of the Wasteful Steak
Chief Master Sirloin of the Wasteful Steak
Posts: 40487
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:52 am
Drives: Blue short bus
Location: Philly

Tarspin wrote: Wed Apr 17, 2019 11:46 pm I like @max225 mine of thinking here, no point throwing 2k at this thing. It'll sell for 3k ALL day long as long as it runs. Drive it until you sell it to some kid or it blows up which may not happen. Just do engine oil and filter. Fuck the air filters, brake fluid, trans, etc etc. Ride it like the mule it has become. It is a reliable mofo and will likely stay that way until it's not.

Also, why aren't you writing off your mileage? Dafuq.
What if it doesn't run? I mean, do that preventative work, and yeah it's still only worth $3-4k. But it runs. So spend $2k to be able to sell it for $4k, $2k total cost to you. Don't do it, don't spend the money, and sell it as a non running scrap heap (which will be a shit show in itself) for what $1200? Total cost to you is $2800. I dunno, it's a wash. Just depends if he wants to keep the car a few more years or no.

Also don't have to spend $2k. The tensioner by itself should be right around a grand.
User avatar
Irish
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3648
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 12:37 am
Drives: '12 GIT (190K!)- 2011 Outie A5
Location: Carlisle PA

Johnny_P wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 10:29 am
Tarspin wrote: Wed Apr 17, 2019 11:46 pm I like @max225 mine of thinking here, no point throwing 2k at this thing. It'll sell for 3k ALL day long as long as it runs. Drive it until you sell it to some kid or it blows up which may not happen. Just do engine oil and filter. Fuck the air filters, brake fluid, trans, etc etc. Ride it like the mule it has become. It is a reliable mofo and will likely stay that way until it's not.

Also, why aren't you writing off your mileage? Dafuq.
What if it doesn't run? I mean, do that preventative work, and yeah it's still only worth $3-4k. But it runs. So spend $2k to be able to sell it for $4k, $2k total cost to you. Don't do it, don't spend the money, and sell it as a non running scrap heap (which will be a shit show in itself) for what $1200? Total cost to you is $2800. I dunno, it's a wash. Just depends if he wants to keep the car a few more years or no.

Also don't have to spend $2k. The tensioner by itself should be right around a grand.
I do want to keep it for at least 18 months, as I am waiting for Used GoRfs to come down in price a bit If I can get the tensioner done for about a g, I will bite the bullet.

I found a bloo 2016 Ahrr with 9700 miles (and an APR Stage one tune) locally at an Audi :dillerman: but $32K is a little too rich for my blood. Besides, I don't think Id tune whatever I get until it was out of warranty.
User avatar
goIftdibrad
Chief Master Soft Brain
Chief Master Soft Brain
Posts: 16746
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:01 am
Drives: straight past the apex

Irish wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:39 pm
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 10:29 am

What if it doesn't run? I mean, do that preventative work, and yeah it's still only worth $3-4k. But it runs. So spend $2k to be able to sell it for $4k, $2k total cost to you. Don't do it, don't spend the money, and sell it as a non running scrap heap (which will be a shit show in itself) for what $1200? Total cost to you is $2800. I dunno, it's a wash. Just depends if he wants to keep the car a few more years or no.

Also don't have to spend $2k. The tensioner by itself should be right around a grand.
I do want to keep it for at least 18 months, as I am waiting for Used GoRfs to come down in price a bit If I can get the tensioner done for about a g, I will bite the bullet.

I found a bloo 2016 Ahrr with 9700 miles (and an APR Stage one tune) locally at an Audi :dillerman: but $32K is a little too rich for my blood. Besides, I don't think Id tune whatever I get until it was out of warranty.

Dude, just fix what breaks and do you maintenance stuff. Its a car. If the chain tensioner blows and grenades your engine, a lowish mile used motor plus install will be like 15 hundo at an indy shop, tops, then you will be good to go for many more miles.

Letting some tech dig around in the bits of you engine is more likely to just casur something else to go wrong that needs to be fixed IMHO. Crangshafts anyone?
brain go brrrrrr
User avatar
Apex
Chief Master Sirloin of the Wasteful Steak
Chief Master Sirloin of the Wasteful Steak
Posts: 29815
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2016 10:36 pm
Drives: Abominable
Location: NJ

Irish wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:39 pm
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 10:29 am

What if it doesn't run? I mean, do that preventative work, and yeah it's still only worth $3-4k. But it runs. So spend $2k to be able to sell it for $4k, $2k total cost to you. Don't do it, don't spend the money, and sell it as a non running scrap heap (which will be a shit show in itself) for what $1200? Total cost to you is $2800. I dunno, it's a wash. Just depends if he wants to keep the car a few more years or no.

Also don't have to spend $2k. The tensioner by itself should be right around a grand.
I do want to keep it for at least 18 months, as I am waiting for Used GoRfs to come down in price a bit If I can get the tensioner done for about a g, I will bite the bullet.

I found a bloo 2016 Ahrr with 9700 miles (and an APR Stage one tune) locally at an Audi :dillerman: but $32K is a little too rich for my blood. Besides, I don't think Id tune whatever I get until it was out of warranty.
If you buy it tuned, it's already out of warranty.

Image
User avatar
Irish
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3648
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 12:37 am
Drives: '12 GIT (190K!)- 2011 Outie A5
Location: Carlisle PA

Big Brain Bradley wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:44 pm
Irish wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:39 pm
I do want to keep it for at least 18 months, as I am waiting for Used GoRfs to come down in price a bit If I can get the tensioner done for about a g, I will bite the bullet.

I found a bloo 2016 Ahrr with 9700 miles (and an APR Stage one tune) locally at an Audi :dillerman: but $32K is a little too rich for my blood. Besides, I don't think Id tune whatever I get until it was out of warranty.

Dude, just fix what breaks and do you maintenance stuff. Its a car. If the chain tensioner blows and grenades your engine, a lowish mile used motor plus install will be like 15 hundo at an indy shop, tops, then you will be good to go for many more miles.

Letting some tech dig around in the bits of you engine is more likely to just casur something else to go wrong that needs to be fixed IMHO. Crangshafts anyone?
Good points. But I don't think I can buy and have an engine installed for $1500 around here.
Apex wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:51 pm
Irish wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 12:39 pm
I do want to keep it for at least 18 months, as I am waiting for Used GoRfs to come down in price a bit If I can get the tensioner done for about a g, I will bite the bullet.

I found a bloo 2016 Ahrr with 9700 miles (and an APR Stage one tune) locally at an Audi :dillerman: but $32K is a little too rich for my blood. Besides, I don't think Id tune whatever I get until it was out of warranty.
If you buy it tuned, it's already out of warranty.

Image
Yeah...sorta.... I tuned the :mk6: at 40k and still had waterpump and intake manifold replaced under warranty......but if anything internal had went it may have been a different story. Its moot anyway as I am not in a position to pick this one up right now.
User avatar
Tar
Chief Master Sirloin
Chief Master Sirloin
Posts: 14126
Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2016 6:06 pm
Drives: Beige Family Sedan sans Dent
Location: Canuckistan

Irish wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 2:56 am
Tarspin wrote: Wed Apr 17, 2019 11:46 pm I like @max225 mine of thinking here, no point throwing 2k at this thing. It'll sell for 3k ALL day long as long as it runs. Drive it until you sell it to some kid or it blows up which may not happen. Just do engine oil and filter. Fuck the air filters, brake fluid, trans, etc etc. Ride it like the mule it has become. It is a reliable mofo and will likely stay that way until it's not.

Also, why aren't you writing off your mileage? Dafuq.
Good points, points are good.

No mileage write off because I have had no income, thus no taxes to be offset. I should have been paying myself mileage, but money had been so tight for most 2018 that I didn't want to do that.
Yep, zero income zero tax so no need for write offs. Can you push them forward into the next fiscal year?
User avatar
max225
Chief Master Sirloin of the Wasteful Steak
Chief Master Sirloin of the Wasteful Steak
Posts: 42432
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 12:49 am
Drives: Taco+ Bavarian lemon

He should be able to, it is an operating loss you should be able to carry forward.
User avatar
Tar
Chief Master Sirloin
Chief Master Sirloin
Posts: 14126
Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2016 6:06 pm
Drives: Beige Family Sedan sans Dent
Location: Canuckistan

max225 wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 5:53 pm He should be able to, it is an operating loss you should be able to carry forward.
Agreed, that's how we are set up too. Keeping those log books up to date makes cents. :like:
User avatar
Irish
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3648
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 12:37 am
Drives: '12 GIT (190K!)- 2011 Outie A5
Location: Carlisle PA

Tarspin wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 5:47 pm
Irish wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 2:56 am

Good points, points are good.

No mileage write off because I have had no income, thus no taxes to be offset. I should have been paying myself mileage, but money had been so tight for most 2018 that I didn't want to do that.
Yep, zero income zero tax so no need for write offs. Can you push them forward into the next fiscal year?
max225 wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 5:53 pm He should be able to, it is an operating loss you should be able to carry forward.
What I should have done, but didn't, was to issue myself a check for all da mileage for 2018....... that would have paid me twice because the business would have shown a greater loss for the year against wife's taxes..... Coulda woulda shoulda..... We were already getting about $15K back and I just called it good.....
User avatar
Irish
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3648
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 12:37 am
Drives: '12 GIT (190K!)- 2011 Outie A5
Location: Carlisle PA

Tarspin wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 6:00 pm
max225 wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 5:53 pm He should be able to, it is an operating loss you should be able to carry forward.
Agreed, that's how we are set up too. Keeping those log books up to date makes cents. :like:
Hmmm....I will have to ask the accountant man about this.

Problem is that I don't expect that wwe will show a loss for 2019. Good problem to have after my struggles, but still....
User avatar
Tar
Chief Master Sirloin
Chief Master Sirloin
Posts: 14126
Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2016 6:06 pm
Drives: Beige Family Sedan sans Dent
Location: Canuckistan

Irish wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 6:01 pm
Tarspin wrote: Thu Apr 18, 2019 6:00 pm

Agreed, that's how we are set up too. Keeping those log books up to date makes cents. :like:
Hmmm....I will have to ask the accountant man about this.

Problem is that I don't expect that wwe will show a loss for 2019. Good problem to have after my struggles, but still....
Luck of the Irish ☘ finally kicking in! A tax free check for last year's personal expenses sounds nice too! It will probably pay for your git refresh and some of the payment owed! 👍
User avatar
Irish
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 3648
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 12:37 am
Drives: '12 GIT (190K!)- 2011 Outie A5
Location: Carlisle PA

Based on your experiences (which I consider to be high praise indeed) I'm Getting ready to order a bunch of stuff from FCP Euro ......

Biggest thing is a brake kit.....

Fun fact: I am super easy on brakes.....dat safe following distance and engine braking :doe: I have almost 100k farts on the set that I'm running right now and because I have not generally ever kept cars long enough to need them, I have never changed a set out :blush:

I can order the fronts and rears separately for about $290 or the 4x kit is $310 The only difference seems to be (2) anti rattle caliper clips.......can I safely expect to be able to reuse the old ones or do they get trashed upon removal? And if so why does it only come with 2?

Another Fun Fact: I used to work for a Consulting Lab in NJ that was contracted with DOT to test all brake fluids sold in the US. I was the tech that did the work. Boiling points, centrifuge sedimentation, corrosion, water tolerance, stroking properties :hubba: and a bunch of other tests in accordance with the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR). SO when you read "This Brake fluid meets or exceed the FMVSS no. 116 for Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid" ....that was me mfers!!!!! At least during the 90s,

Yet another fun fact: At current levels of brake pad consumption, My car will have to make it to 260k farts in order for me to take advantage of FCPs Lifetime Guarantee...... :disappoint: So maybe I'd be better off with a better kit?
User avatar
MexicanYarisTK
Senior Master Sirloin
Senior Master Sirloin
Posts: 9978
Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2016 9:14 am
Drives: An Okinowa Cruiseship
Location: 6 miles north of Sleepy Joes House & 5 miles from Bosphorus Channel

While i got my brakes changed, i asked my reputable vw/audi shop about the quote for my upcoming DSG service. And it turns out to be $380, about $180 less than I did at my dealer last time. :fuckyeah: im definitely taking it there for it.
Nephew of a :plac: a few first gen immigrant on DFD, resident turk, and ex nazi egg lover now driving a middle class mom mobile.
User avatar
MexicanYarisTK
Senior Master Sirloin
Senior Master Sirloin
Posts: 9978
Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2016 9:14 am
Drives: An Okinowa Cruiseship
Location: 6 miles north of Sleepy Joes House & 5 miles from Bosphorus Channel

Also im :foreveralone: this weekend, cause almost anyone who i hang out with regularly are out of town and of course easter.
Nephew of a :plac: a few first gen immigrant on DFD, resident turk, and ex nazi egg lover now driving a middle class mom mobile.
dubshow
Senior Master Sirloin
Senior Master Sirloin
Posts: 11074
Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:18 am
Drives: All of them

with all the :gorf: owners in here:

what mods you guys doing? Im pretty content with my car over all. Just done the sound deactivate, rez chop and pedal stop. the ecs bleeder and jack point kit are sitting in a box to install.

I might dabble with a jb piggyback bullshit box for just a HAIR more power but am unsure and dont want to :nuke: my 10k mile stock clutch.

I also like the idea of warranty til 72k miles.

:notsure: where to go from here. Ive been tempted by intake noises but good lord all the CF is real blingy and $$$.
User avatar
Tar
Chief Master Sirloin
Chief Master Sirloin
Posts: 14126
Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2016 6:06 pm
Drives: Beige Family Sedan sans Dent
Location: Canuckistan

dubshow wrote: Thu Jul 18, 2019 4:11 pm with all the :gorf: owners in here:

what mods you guys doing? Im pretty content with my car over all. Just done the sound deactivate, rez chop and pedal stop. the ecs bleeder and jack point kit are sitting in a box to install.

I might dabble with a jb piggyback bullshit box for just a HAIR more power but am unsure and dont want to :nuke: my 10k mile stock clutch.

I also like the idea of warranty til 72k miles.

:notsure: where to go from here. Ive been tempted by intake noises but good lord all the CF is real blingy and $$$.
I have a Remus exhaust, res delete, LED tail lights Dynamic, 70% ceramic tint all around, and PPF on the key areas. That's it.
User avatar
fledonfoot
First Sirloin
First Sirloin
Posts: 4244
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2016 10:33 pm
Drives: Taco Truk | Power Wheels Heep

dubshow wrote: Thu Jul 18, 2019 4:11 pm with all the :gorf: owners in here:

what mods you guys doing? Im pretty content with my car over all. Just done the sound deactivate, rez chop and pedal stop. the ecs bleeder and jack point kit are sitting in a box to install.

I might dabble with a jb piggyback bullshit box for just a HAIR more power but am unsure and dont want to :nuke: my 10k mile stock clutch.

I also like the idea of warranty til 72k miles.

:notsure: where to go from here. Ive been tempted by intake noises but good lord all the CF is real blingy and $$$.
I have an ECS bleeder block (best $100 car mod I’ve ever done), the RS3 OEM short shifter and a shifter bracket and cable bushing kit.
Firestone Indy 500 summer tires (car is alive with decent sticky rubber) and as much camber as I could get out of an alignment.
Cobb stage 1 93 octane off the shelf tune. After 6k tunes miles I get slight clutch slippage when lugging the engine a bit around 2-2.5k rpm and building boost, but keeping the revs up the car pulls... hard. When the car was stock, I was averaging 32-33mpg on my 75% highway, 25% twisty back road 46 mile one way commute. When I put the Indy 500’s on it dropped to 29. After I tuned it, it’s back up to 34-35.

Bilstein dampers and VW R springs are on the dock... likely after I put the Sachs performance clutch in after it starts slipping more with the tube. I think if I lower it I want to try and make the car rotate a bit more when flogging it... I miss how oversteery my FoST was at times.
dubshow
Senior Master Sirloin
Senior Master Sirloin
Posts: 11074
Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:18 am
Drives: All of them

fledonfoot wrote: Fri Jul 19, 2019 9:28 pm
dubshow wrote: Thu Jul 18, 2019 4:11 pm with all the :gorf: owners in here:

what mods you guys doing? Im pretty content with my car over all. Just done the sound deactivate, rez chop and pedal stop. the ecs bleeder and jack point kit are sitting in a box to install.

I might dabble with a jb piggyback bullshit box for just a HAIR more power but am unsure and dont want to :nuke: my 10k mile stock clutch.

I also like the idea of warranty til 72k miles.

:notsure: where to go from here. Ive been tempted by intake noises but good lord all the CF is real blingy and $$$.
I have an ECS bleeder block (best $100 car mod I’ve ever done), the RS3 OEM short shifter and a shifter bracket and cable bushing kit.
Firestone Indy 500 summer tires (car is alive with decent sticky rubber) and as much camber as I could get out of an alignment.
Cobb stage 1 93 octane off the shelf tune. After 6k tunes miles I get slight clutch slippage when lugging the engine a bit around 2-2.5k rpm and building boost, but keeping the revs up the car pulls... hard. When the car was stock, I was averaging 32-33mpg on my 75% highway, 25% twisty back road 46 mile one way commute. When I put the Indy 500’s on it dropped to 29. After I tuned it, it’s back up to 34-35.

Bilstein dampers and VW R springs are on the dock... likely after I put the Sachs performance clutch in after it starts slipping more with the tube. I think if I lower it I want to try and make the car rotate a bit more when flogging it... I miss how oversteery my FoST was at times.
Excellent. I forgot to mention mine came with the summer pirellis. It now has the pilot sport 4s on forged 18x8.5 wheels.

I forget Cobb has ots stuff now. I guess I'll install that bleeder block since everyone raves about it.
User avatar
Gberg2119
First Sirloin
First Sirloin
Posts: 4818
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:09 pm
Drives: W///
Location: Philly

dubshow wrote: Sat Jul 20, 2019 8:41 am
fledonfoot wrote: Fri Jul 19, 2019 9:28 pm

I have an ECS bleeder block (best $100 car mod I’ve ever done), the RS3 OEM short shifter and a shifter bracket and cable bushing kit.
Firestone Indy 500 summer tires (car is alive with decent sticky rubber) and as much camber as I could get out of an alignment.
Cobb stage 1 93 octane off the shelf tune. After 6k tunes miles I get slight clutch slippage when lugging the engine a bit around 2-2.5k rpm and building boost, but keeping the revs up the car pulls... hard. When the car was stock, I was averaging 32-33mpg on my 75% highway, 25% twisty back road 46 mile one way commute. When I put the Indy 500’s on it dropped to 29. After I tuned it, it’s back up to 34-35.

Bilstein dampers and VW R springs are on the dock... likely after I put the Sachs performance clutch in after it starts slipping more with the tube. I think if I lower it I want to try and make the car rotate a bit more when flogging it... I miss how oversteery my FoST was at times.
Excellent. I forgot to mention mine came with the summer pirellis. It now has the pilot sport 4s on forged 18x8.5 wheels.

I forget Cobb has ots stuff now. I guess I'll install that bleeder block since everyone raves about it.
:doit:
User avatar
Gberg2119
First Sirloin
First Sirloin
Posts: 4818
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:09 pm
Drives: W///
Location: Philly

fledonfoot wrote: Fri Jul 19, 2019 9:28 pm
dubshow wrote: Thu Jul 18, 2019 4:11 pm with all the :gorf: owners in here:

what mods you guys doing? Im pretty content with my car over all. Just done the sound deactivate, rez chop and pedal stop. the ecs bleeder and jack point kit are sitting in a box to install.

I might dabble with a jb piggyback bullshit box for just a HAIR more power but am unsure and dont want to :nuke: my 10k mile stock clutch.

I also like the idea of warranty til 72k miles.

:notsure: where to go from here. Ive been tempted by intake noises but good lord all the CF is real blingy and $$$.
I have an ECS bleeder block (best $100 car mod I’ve ever done), the RS3 OEM short shifter and a shifter bracket and cable bushing kit.
Firestone Indy 500 summer tires (car is alive with decent sticky rubber) and as much camber as I could get out of an alignment.
Cobb stage 1 93 octane off the shelf tune. After 6k tunes miles I get slight clutch slippage when lugging the engine a bit around 2-2.5k rpm and building boost, but keeping the revs up the car pulls... hard. When the car was stock, I was averaging 32-33mpg on my 75% highway, 25% twisty back road 46 mile one way commute. When I put the Indy 500’s on it dropped to 29. After I tuned it, it’s back up to 34-35.

Bilstein dampers and VW R springs are on the dock... likely after I put the Sachs performance clutch in after it starts slipping more with the tube. I think if I lower it I want to try and make the car rotate a bit more when flogging it... I miss how oversteery my FoST was at times.
The car definitely needs a rear sway at least. If you do both I'd also do the tyrol rigid subframe kit.

Also curious about the sachs clutch kit. Seems like the best option although I don’t know about the single mass flywheel.
User avatar
Huckleberry
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 2415
Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2018 9:10 am
Drives: 2004 GTO
Location: Hi. I'm in Delaware.

How has the reliability of the 2.0 TSI been? I've been looking at picking up a new GTI.
User avatar
fledonfoot
First Sirloin
First Sirloin
Posts: 4244
Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2016 10:33 pm
Drives: Taco Truk | Power Wheels Heep

Huckleberry wrote: Sun Jul 21, 2019 1:42 pm How has the reliability of the 2.0 TSI been? I've been looking at picking up a new GTI.
I haven’t burned a drop of oil or had an issue so far with the engine.

The only issue I’ve had is a bad steering rack and a lengthy back order.
User avatar
Gberg2119
First Sirloin
First Sirloin
Posts: 4818
Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:09 pm
Drives: W///
Location: Philly

So I suddenly remembered about the timing chain lawsuit and gave them a call.

My claim is still under review even though I sent it in in August. The guy said it didn't mean much but checks will start going out in mid August.
User avatar
Huckleberry
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Senior Chief Patty Officer
Posts: 2415
Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2018 9:10 am
Drives: 2004 GTO
Location: Hi. I'm in Delaware.

fledonfoot wrote: Sun Jul 21, 2019 3:18 pm
Huckleberry wrote: Sun Jul 21, 2019 1:42 pm How has the reliability of the 2.0 TSI been? I've been looking at picking up a new GTI.
I haven’t burned a drop of oil or had an issue so far with the engine.

The only issue I’ve had is a bad steering rack and a lengthy back order.
Good to hear. How many miles and how long have you had the car just as a point of reference?
Post Reply