:plac: Finds: Show us your automotive goldmines

[D Griff]

Weird man. How do these things fail? They have a ring gear and a few bearings. If there were noise on a factory spec unit you'd think there's some metal in there.

At very least I'd get a second opinion. Maybe it's not a big deal? My diff didn't make any noise before or after gearz.

I suspect it's pinon bearing failure. Especially if it happened after being hammered on. If the fluid was overfilled, it might have gotten too hot and thinned out to the point where it wasn't properly lubricating the bearing.

It wasn't overfilled when the hooning occurred. The whole "overfilled" thing is weird... I mean, I don't even see how I (anyone) could overfill, you just fill until fluid is pouring out of the top hole. But, the fluid on the diff must have come out of the blow off valve because it definitely doesn't leak.

I don't see what I could do about this though, no real way to check it without opening up the diff, at which point, may as well just go with the 4.10s because you're already paying good money. So I'm pretty much just until it breaks, if it needs a tow, it needs a tow.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

I suspect it's pinon bearing failure. Especially if it happened after being hammered on. If the fluid was overfilled, it might have gotten too hot and thinned out to the point where it wasn't properly lubricating the bearing.

It wasn't overfilled when the hooning occurred. The whole "overfilled" thing is weird... I mean, I don't even see how I (anyone) could overfill, you just fill until fluid is pouring out of the top hole. But, the fluid on the diff must have come out of the blow off valve because it definitely doesn't leak.

I don't see what I could do about this though, no real way to check it without opening up the diff, at which point, may as well just go with the 4.10s because you're already paying good money. So I'm pretty much just until it breaks, if it needs a tow, it needs a tow.

Well, something caused it to puke out the top...heat or too much. I've read that the actual fluid level is supposed to be just below the fill hole, but

But yea, I'd make sure you had roadside assistance on your insurance (or AAA) and just until it

[dubshow]

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2003- ... scovery-4/





Chassis: SALTY16453A795382

[dubshow]

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2001-honda-s2000-27/

[Desertbreh]

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2003- ... scovery-4/





Chassis: SALTY16453A795382

These are epic pieces of shit, yes?

[Johnny_P]

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2003- ... scovery-4/





Chassis: SALTY16453A795382

These are epic pieces of shit, yes?

Sadly. They are neat looking and nice inside but are a handful to own.

[MexicanYarisTK]

For

https://www.facebook.com/groups/4313693 ... 8806500496

[D Griff]

It wasn't overfilled when the hooning occurred. The whole "overfilled" thing is weird... I mean, I don't even see how I (anyone) could overfill, you just fill until fluid is pouring out of the top hole. But, the fluid on the diff must have come out of the blow off valve because it definitely doesn't leak.

I don't see what I could do about this though, no real way to check it without opening up the diff, at which point, may as well just go with the 4.10s because you're already paying good money. So I'm pretty much just until it breaks, if it needs a tow, it needs a tow.

Well, something caused it to puke out the top...heat or too much. I've read that the actual fluid level is supposed to be just below the fill hole, but

But yea, I'd make sure you had roadside assistance on your insurance (or AAA) and just until it

So... in your semi-professional opinion (I'd definitely consider you a C5 expert after all of your work), do you think failure is imminent?

I'm back to anti- , so maybe I should plan to fit the diff into the budget in the near-ish future or just out.

[D Griff]

These are epic pieces of shit, yes?

Sadly. They are neat looking and nice inside but are a handful to own.

I wish they weren't, they're cool. But if they weren't, they wouldn't be cheap.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Well, something caused it to puke out the top...heat or too much. I've read that the actual fluid level is supposed to be just below the fill hole, but

But yea, I'd make sure you had roadside assistance on your insurance (or AAA) and just until it

So... in your semi-professional opinion (I'd definitely consider you a C5 expert after all of your work), do you think failure is imminent?

I'm back to anti- , so maybe I should plan to fit the diff into the budget in the near-ish future or just out.

I'm not an expert on rear ends, it's the one thing on my car I had someone else do. It entirely depends on what's causing the whine.

If it's just wear on the ring and pinion, it'll probably last forever. If the pinion bearing is worn, increasing tolerance between the ring and pinion, that's a waiting to happen.

If you changed the fluid after it started whining and you didn't find any metal, it's probably just ring/pinion wear. Another thing that I've found (and my differential shop suggested up front) was running 80w90 dino gear oil helps with noise. It's thicker and stays thicker, which helps with noise and is also a big better for protection parts. I'm running Castrol 80w90 gear oil and it's been good. Could be worth a shot to quiet it down.

But really, 4.10's are fantastic in these cars. Start putting some money away and just have the diff rebuilt with new gears at some point if you're not going to It's totally worth it, makes the car feel more like a sports car IMO.

[D Griff]

So... in your semi-professional opinion (I'd definitely consider you a C5 expert after all of your work), do you think failure is imminent?

I'm back to anti- , so maybe I should plan to fit the diff into the budget in the near-ish future or just out.

I'm not an expert on rear ends, it's the one thing on my car I had someone else do. It entirely depends on what's causing the whine.

If it's just wear on the ring and pinion, it'll probably last forever. If the pinion bearing is worn, increasing tolerance between the ring and pinion, that's a waiting to happen.

If you changed the fluid after it started whining and you didn't find any metal, it's probably just ring/pinion wear. Another thing that I've found (and my differential shop suggested up front) was running 80w90 dino gear oil helps with noise. It's thicker and stays thicker, which helps with noise and is also a big better for protection parts. I'm running Castrol 80w90 gear oil and it's been good. Could be worth a shot to quiet it down.

But really, 4.10's are fantastic in these cars. Start putting some money away and just have the diff rebuilt with new gears at some point if you're not going to It's totally worth it, makes the car feel more like a sports car IMO.

Thanks for the info. I did drive with 4.10s and agree, it's a blast. Probably something I should just harden the fuck up and save for.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

I'm not an expert on rear ends, it's the one thing on my car I had someone else do. It entirely depends on what's causing the whine.

If it's just wear on the ring and pinion, it'll probably last forever. If the pinion bearing is worn, increasing tolerance between the ring and pinion, that's a waiting to happen.

If you changed the fluid after it started whining and you didn't find any metal, it's probably just ring/pinion wear. Another thing that I've found (and my differential shop suggested up front) was running 80w90 dino gear oil helps with noise. It's thicker and stays thicker, which helps with noise and is also a big better for protection parts. I'm running Castrol 80w90 gear oil and it's been good. Could be worth a shot to quiet it down.

But really, 4.10's are fantastic in these cars. Start putting some money away and just have the diff rebuilt with new gears at some point if you're not going to It's totally worth it, makes the car feel more like a sports car IMO.

Thanks for the info. I did drive with 4.10s and agree, it's a blast. Probably something I should just harden the fuck up and save for.

At this point, the whine is going to detract buyers (it already has once) so you're going to have to spend money to fix it unless you want to take a bath on the car. The CHEAPEST way to fix would be to buy a take-out 3.42 diff for ~$700 and hope that does it, but it might land you in the same boat and you'll still have to pay labor to swap it. Speaking of, that's also a great time to have the clutch done (which is likely coming due with your mileage) since you're already paying for most of the labor to swap the diff. Stock clutches are cheap parts, so it's probably just a few hundred added to the cost. Clutch and diff and the thing should be trouble-free for a long time.

[Johnny_P]

I'm not an expert on rear ends, it's the one thing on my car I had someone else do. It entirely depends on what's causing the whine.

If it's just wear on the ring and pinion, it'll probably last forever. If the pinion bearing is worn, increasing tolerance between the ring and pinion, that's a waiting to happen.

If you changed the fluid after it started whining and you didn't find any metal, it's probably just ring/pinion wear. Another thing that I've found (and my differential shop suggested up front) was running 80w90 dino gear oil helps with noise. It's thicker and stays thicker, which helps with noise and is also a big better for protection parts. I'm running Castrol 80w90 gear oil and it's been good. Could be worth a shot to quiet it down.

But really, 4.10's are fantastic in these cars. Start putting some money away and just have the diff rebuilt with new gears at some point if you're not going to It's totally worth it, makes the car feel more like a sports car IMO.

Thanks for the info. I did drive with 4.10s and agree, it's a blast. Probably something I should just harden the fuck up and save for.

You've been wanting to for a while now so why not instead of going on car mods. Throw some thick gear oil in there and sell it to collector dillerman and get your S2K rice rocket you want. You get none of that mod cost back, and possibly further detract value from the car if it results in increased noise or vibration or whatever. Silverhair collectors seeking out 50AE rarepupper fiberglass retirement charoits generally don't want anything other than stock setup.

I'd still off the hooters express and change it up

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Thanks for the info. I did drive with 4.10s and agree, it's a blast. Probably something I should just harden the fuck up and save for.

You've been wanting to for a while now so why not instead of going on car mods. Throw some thick gear oil in there and sell it to collector dillerman and get your S2K rice rocket you want. You get none of that mod cost back, and possibly further detract value from the car if it results in increased noise or vibration or whatever. Silverhair collectors seeking out 50AE rarepupper fiberglass retirement charoits generally don't want anything other than stock setup.

I'd still off the hooters express and change it up

This is worth considering.

The challenge is, to Silverhair collectors, any car with more than 20k miles is essentially totaled. Griff's car is in a bit of a weird spot.

[Johnny_P]

You've been wanting to for a while now so why not instead of going on car mods. Throw some thick gear oil in there and sell it to collector dillerman and get your S2K rice rocket you want. You get none of that mod cost back, and possibly further detract value from the car if it results in increased noise or vibration or whatever. Silverhair collectors seeking out 50AE rarepupper fiberglass retirement charoits generally don't want anything other than stock setup.

I'd still off the hooters express and change it up

This is worth considering.

The challenge is, to Silverhair collectors, any car with more than 20k miles is essentially totaled. Griff's car is in a bit of a weird spot.

Good point.

[Johnny_P]

https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/c ... 25460.html

Chevy Silverado prerunner - $25000
2007 Chevy Silverado prerunner
-Lsk long travel w/ king shocks
-full rear cage with king 3.0 16" finned bypasses
-custom rear bumper
-4.88 gears
-fiberglass front and rear fenders
-90k miles
-37" tires and 17" rims
And Lots more! Willing to trade let me know what u have! Will trade for diesel with low miles or bmw 435i

All for less than an ND Miata. Only RWD doe. IDK why someone put such time and effort into a non-4WD pickup. Should be OK for desert running but that's about it.

[Apex]

https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/c ... 25460.html

Chevy Silverado prerunner - $25000
2007 Chevy Silverado prerunner
-Lsk long travel w/ king shocks
-full rear cage with king 3.0 16" finned bypasses
-custom rear bumper
-4.88 gears
-fiberglass front and rear fenders
-90k miles
-37" tires and 17" rims
And Lots more! Willing to trade let me know what u have! Will trade for diesel with low miles or bmw 435i

All for less than an ND Miata. Only RWD doe. IDK why someone put such time and effort into a non-4WD pickup. Should be OK for desert running but that's about it.

I bet that thing is a riot in the desert. Seller is in Nevada with license plate DIRTTOY. Checks out.

[Johnny_P]

https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/c ... 25460.html









All for less than an ND Miata. Only RWD doe. IDK why someone put such time and effort into a non-4WD pickup. Should be OK for desert running but that's about it.

I bet that thing is a riot in the desert. Seller is in Nevada with license plate DIRTTOY. Checks out.

It looks pretty god damn to me with the V8 and those king shocks and legit long travel burly suspension.

[wap]

Always loved these. Interior looks nice with seats that look like they don't suck and real full instrumentation. And at 100k miles it's only reached its half life.
This would be a second choice for me if I couldn't find a Karmann Ghia to play with.
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/de ... id=1&pid=2

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Prerunners are traditionally 2WD. The "prerunner" is the truck that Baja teams pre-run the course in to find any tricky spots, obstacles, and to strategerize. Hence Prerunner. Less weight up front results in somewhat better weight distribution when you're airborne, etc.

This thing would be a blast in the desert and pretty terrible in every other use. The plate is accurate.

[wap]

Here's one that's spec:
https://jalopnik.com/will-one-of-you-pl ... 1692607336

[max225]

It comes with the gun and cigars ?

[Desertbreh]

Always loved these. Interior looks nice with seats that look like they don't suck and real full instrumentation. And at 100k miles it's only reached its half life.
This would be a second choice for me if I couldn't find a Karmann Ghia to play with.
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/de ... id=1&pid=2

If this is truly rust free its a good deal. These have appreciated a lot in the last 5 years. Just needs some re-chroming of the bumpers.

The brown one with the shotguns is an automatic, I believe, and that is a 3 speed autotragic in a "sports car" with 120 hp is not going to cut it.

[wap]

It comes with the gun and cigars ?

but I don't believe they were oem equipment.

[wap]

Always loved these. Interior looks nice with seats that look like they don't suck and real full instrumentation. And at 100k miles it's only reached its half life.
This would be a second choice for me if I couldn't find a Karmann Ghia to play with.
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/de ... id=1&pid=2

If this is truly rust free its a good deal. These have appreciated a lot in the last 5 years. Just needs some re-chroming of the bumpers.

The brown one with the shotguns is an automatic, I believe, and that is a 3 speed autotragic in a "sports car" with 120 hp is not going to cut it.

Yea I didn't see the auto on the brown one until after I posted it. It would be a for me, too, but I loved the color and the shotgun thing I thought was funny and worth posting.