Obligatory C5 Thread

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max225
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I thought c5 rotors were notoriously cheap like $19 a pop at Napa cheap? But that was during my C5 tenure days things change
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Also, I need a new radiator. Mine is bowed a bit (not sure why, it's been like this since I've had the car) but my oil temp hit 298 yesterday and coolant hit 250. My car has also always run hotter than Melon's in TN. Looks like a new OEM unit is $200. I'm sort of wondering if I should just :troywax: on a Ron Davis unit with integrated oil cooler. It's basically 5X the cost but it would probably solve my cooling problems and I'd never have to worry about it, which would be nice.

:notsure:
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max225 wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:06 am I thought c5 rotors were notoriously cheap like $19 a pop at Napa cheap? But that was during my C5 tenure days things change
$50/rotor is cheap now. :thankstrump:
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[user not found] wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:12 am
D Griff wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:08 am Also, I need a new radiator. Mine is bowed a bit (not sure why, it's been like this since I've had the car) but my oil temp hit 298 yesterday and coolant hit 250. My car has also always run hotter than Melon's in TN. Looks like a new OEM unit is $200. I'm sort of wondering if I should just :troywax: on a Ron Davis unit with integrated oil cooler. It's basically 5X the cost but it would probably solve my cooling problems and I'd never have to worry about it, which would be nice.

:notsure:
So, 1250 for a Ronald McDavis radiator?
It looks like about $900 shipped... but then I also need the oil plumbing kit deal. So yeah... $1200ish OTD. We shall see. I have time to research more. That is a lot of money.
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max225
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D Griff wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:16 am
[user not found] wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:12 am

So, 1250 for a Ronald McDavis radiator?
It looks like about $900 shipped... but then I also need the oil plumbing kit deal. So yeah... $1200ish OTD. We shall see. I have time to research more. That is a lot of money.
Get the OEM and call it a day. If it still doesn’t work for you, then you can upgrade. That’s setting $200 on fire vs $1200
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max225 wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:06 am I thought c5 rotors were notoriously cheap like $19 a pop at Napa cheap? But that was during my C5 tenure days things change
Centrics are $20-30 from Amazon/Rockauto.

Parts 12162059 through 12162062.

https://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-12 ... 56SEVK3N0Q

https://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-12 ... B000IY4AK4
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troyguitar wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:23 am
max225 wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:06 am I thought c5 rotors were notoriously cheap like $19 a pop at Napa cheap? But that was during my C5 tenure days things change
Centrics are $20-30 from Amazon/Rockauto.

Parts 12162059 through 12162062.

https://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-12 ... 56SEVK3N0Q

https://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts-12 ... B000IY4AK4
Didn't even think to look on Amazon, looks like I got fucked :lolol: oh well. :mahtroy: luck. At least I can put them on today now though, so I don't have to roll with a broken rotor.
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Actually if I were driving the car to the track and back, I'd go for this to not need to swap brake pads:

https://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/ ... Brake+Pads

The pads are a little :waxer: but are the only one that's really suitable for street+track without absolutely destroying rotors and making tons of noise.
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Well, the DeWitts raiator with oil coiler is "only" $680...
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[user not found] wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:35 am
D Griff wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:31 am Well, the DeWitts raiator with oil coiler is "only" $680...
That's half the cost of the :waxer: one.
Yeah and it's $80 more for the oil cooler, so I could get it with it and just wait and plumb it up as needed. I think I'll likely go this route.
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D Griff wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:31 am Well, the DeWitts raiator with oil coiler is "only" $680...
It's essentially a question of "Do you want to keep the car?" - If so, get one of the better radiators with oil cooler. Else go OEM.
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Also, these rotors didn't exist back when I had my car but I'd consider them if I were buying stuff today:

https://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/ ... Brake+Pads

Near Centric pricing for DBA designs which are supposed to be better for cooling and crack resistance, I actually had :waxer: DBA rotors for a bit when I was really tracking the car and they did seem to be effective.
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troyguitar wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:38 am
D Griff wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:31 am Well, the DeWitts raiator with oil coiler is "only" $680...
It's essentially a question of "Do you want to keep the car?" - If so, get one of the better radiators with oil cooler. Else go OEM.
I think I do. It's really fun to track it. I was kind of in the "maybe I should get something pre-setup for the track" camp, but it looks like for a few grand I can get the :poorvette: up to snuff enough for anything I plan to do. I want it to still be pleasant-ish and fun on the street to take up to the mountains and stuff, maybe even evening targa off rides with the gf. The other thing is that it's regrettably not worth shit, so I don't think selling it makes much sense. There's really nothing else I could get for the $12k or so that would be as good and well sorted I don't think.

Now that a primary car is on the table due to commute needs and increased budget, I can be kind of NFG about it, maybe I'll see if I can make it 10 years :lolol:
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troyguitar wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:41 am Also, these rotors didn't exist back when I had my car but I'd consider them if I were buying stuff today:

https://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/ ... Brake+Pads

Near Centric pricing for DBA designs which are supposed to be better for cooling and crack resistance, I actually had :waxer: DBA rotors for a bit when I was really tracking the car and they did seem to be effective.
:notbad: deal really, I may try out next time. I looked at DBA and then went :scrooge: , mostly because I can get them today.
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troyguitar wrote: Sat Sep 08, 2018 11:41 am Also, these rotors didn't exist back when I had my car but I'd consider them if I were buying stuff today:

https://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/ ... Brake+Pads

Near Centric pricing for DBA designs which are supposed to be better for cooling and crack resistance, I actually had :waxer: DBA rotors for a bit when I was really tracking the car and they did seem to be effective.
I used to work for Ken at KNS when he was still in NJ. Glad to see him doing well now! He has a :poorvette: he tracks too.
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Today was a good day. Event went really well. Car ran solid. Going to get the finishing tweaks to it this week at the tuner.
Whole tuning story..... I brought it in to him, he fucked with it Friday night. Text me that it's got a misfire but he's done about the best he can with the tune. I show up and help him, there's a kick in it while it's running. He turns off injectors one at a time, when he gets to injector 2 it smooths out.
We determine that's the cylinder, but don't know if it's the injector, coil, plug, wire, anything. We move cylinder 2's injector to cyl 4 to see what it does, and it misfires, but not the same.

Next morning I replace the fuel filter (because he said there's some low voltage coming off a sensor after the filter, so we changed it anyways). No change. Order the injector for autozone, no one's got it but they order it from their distribution center and it's in by 12 noon. I get it, change it, stame problem. Feels like a plug wire is loose, that's how it bogs down.
Then google the code, P0300. Just a generic misfire code. I start by pulling all the plugs and wires. All cylinders are gapped to .055 except Cylinder 2, which is .060. Not enough to make me think it's a difference, but it's not the same as the others. Google stock gap, find out there was a point where Chevrolet started putting all plugs at a .040 gap. So I regap them all to .040, shit runs SOLID! Didn't think it would do anything, but it cleaned it up.

Bringing the car back in this week so he can finish the tune.
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Acid666 wrote: Sun Sep 09, 2018 11:52 pm Today was a good day. Event went really well. Car ran solid. Going to get the finishing tweaks to it this week at the tuner.
Whole tuning story..... I brought it in to him, he fucked with it Friday night. Text me that it's got a misfire but he's done about the best he can with the tune. I show up and help him, there's a kick in it while it's running. He turns off injectors one at a time, when he gets to injector 2 it smooths out.
We determine that's the cylinder, but don't know if it's the injector, coil, plug, wire, anything. We move cylinder 2's injector to cyl 4 to see what it does, and it misfires, but not the same.

Next morning I replace the fuel filter (because he said there's some low voltage coming off a sensor after the filter, so we changed it anyways). No change. Order the injector for autozone, no one's got it but they order it from their distribution center and it's in by 12 noon. I get it, change it, stame problem. Feels like a plug wire is loose, that's how it bogs down.
Then google the code, P0300. Just a generic misfire code. I start by pulling all the plugs and wires. All cylinders are gapped to .055 except Cylinder 2, which is .060. Not enough to make me think it's a difference, but it's not the same as the others. Google stock gap, find out there was a point where Chevrolet started putting all plugs at a .040 gap. So I regap them all to .040, shit runs SOLID! Didn't think it would do anything, but it cleaned it up.

Bringing the car back in this week so he can finish the tune.
This may be the first autox video I've ever actually found entertaining to watch. Looks quick and sounds great man! Glad the issues got figured out.
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Do any of y'all have any C5Z06 front wheels laying around? I know they tend to be unloved, I think I've decided to just run those at all four corners for ze cheaper tires. Five months on a set of $900 PSS kinda has me :sad: .
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D Griff wrote: Mon Sep 10, 2018 8:07 am Do any of y'all have any C5Z06 front wheels laying around? I know they tend to be unloved, I think I've decided to just run those at all four corners for ze cheaper tires. Five months on a set of $900 PSS kinda has me :sad: .
Dude I've been trying to sell my front speedlines forever. They're repainted with duplicolor gunmetal. A little darker than the oem gunmetal. I'll get you links to the album on imgur when I get to work. Or you can search the Lafayette la craigslist for speedlines and find the link.

I was asking $200, but let's call the dnd special shipping +$50



Edit: here's the album, and 2 pics. They were trash when I got them so they had to be repainted. The only imperfections in the paint is where I didn't completely sand thru the previous layer of paint the guy before me put, so there's some steps in it. Look clean otherwise. I zoomed in on the imperfections for the pictures.


Image

Image
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[user not found] wrote: Mon Sep 10, 2018 12:58 am Interesting venue/super short exit into grid/paddock. :yikes:
airboat land does not have the advantage of vast unused spaces of commuter lots on the weekends.
brain go brrrrrr
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Big Brain Bradley wrote: Mon Sep 10, 2018 8:46 am
[user not found] wrote: Mon Sep 10, 2018 12:58 am Interesting venue/super short exit into grid/paddock. :yikes:
airboat land does not have the advantage of vast unused spaces of commuter lots on the weekends.
Yeah, we're pretty limited. Nola has a good space at the actual track where there's a pad for it.
For us in Cenla, that crossover transition from lot to lot pretty much has to be there, and has to kind of be nearly that same layout every time due to scca spacing rules and because there's a drainage dip that causes cars to bottom out. So all of that has to be taken into account.
But the lot does give pretty good traction.
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It’s wild that the plug gaps caused so many issues. I didn’t even check the gaps on my plugs, just tossed them in out of the box and the car runs crazy hard.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Mon Sep 10, 2018 9:18 am It’s wild that the plug gaps caused so many issues. I didn’t even check the gaps on my plugs, just tossed them in out of the box and the car runs crazy hard.
Don't touch a damn thing with your :fullretard: :plaid: drivetrain.
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Apex wrote: Mon Sep 10, 2018 9:27 am
Detroit wrote: Mon Sep 10, 2018 9:18 am It’s wild that the plug gaps caused so many issues. I didn’t even check the gaps on my plugs, just tossed them in out of the box and the car runs crazy hard.
Don't touch a damn thing with your :fullretard: :plaid: drivetrain.
Not until something breaks...which should be a very long time. I have zero desire to screw with it.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Mon Sep 10, 2018 9:29 am
Apex wrote: Mon Sep 10, 2018 9:27 am

Don't touch a damn thing with your :fullretard: :plaid: drivetrain.
Not until something breaks...which should be a very long time. I have zero desire to screw with it.
It should keep slaying lambos for a long time now.
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