Obligatory C5 Thread

[CaleDeRoo]

Man I want the power of long tubes but idk if they'll be too loud for me.

What exhaust do you have? I drove Detroit's car back when it had long toobz but the stock Z06 exhaust (it's a targa though) and it wasn't very loud, more than stock, less than Borlas, which aren't that loud either really.

I have the Borla S-Type II exhaust. No drone and quiet start up are nice, but dat power.

This is a really shitty video

[Acid666]

Man I want the power of long tubes but idk if they'll be too loud for me.

Long tubes won't be to bad if you keep the stock cat backs,or get the titanium oem setup. A lot of people love the sound of the titanium. I've got the borla stingers and I love em. They have good tone and when you shift into 6th on the highway, they are nearly silent. There's more road noise from the tires than from the pipes.

I got into a huge argument with the resident douchebag of the corvette forums (Evil-twin, one of th c5 engineers) over how my borlas have no drone, and he kept going on how they designed the c5 with Corsa and he learned everything he needed to know about exhaust harmonics and drone, and how the Corsa exhaust is the only one that has no drone. Bunch of back and forth happened until David Borla comes in and says that all of their exhausts were revamped 5 years ago to get rid of drone in their c5 and c6 models.

For the record, I've got an 02 z06 with xs power headers and cat delete x pipe and borlas. I went catless because race car. And because my town don't sniff test.

[Acid666]

Mine actually came off easily-ish with the weird rubber ended pliers designed for that. I actually found that whole job to be not as bad as advertised other than the damn #7 plug.

I'm going to pull my intake manifold tomorrow, replace the oil pressure sensor, check my CEL and try to fix whatever that is, replace rear rotors, bondo my rear tub thing, etc. I miss the and want to get it up to snuff.

I'm on what to do with the tire situation. My front PSS are absolute toast with the right unit leaking to the point of needing a fill any morning I want to drive the car. I could just get some cheapo all seasons, or could go ahead with the new and track oriented tars, just on he tars being stored (on the car) outside all winter, it can get into the teens/twenties here occasionally.

Be sure to keep note of the vacuum hose on the back of the intake manifold that goes to something behind the motor. You might pull it off and not realize it's off. It controls the ac vent controls. If you start the car and turn on the ac and move it from face to floor and back, and it blows out of every vent the same, that hose is not connected. Took me a while to figure that out. I ran an extension so that I could have more stretch on it the next time I removed it.

[CaleDeRoo]

Man I want the power of long tubes but idk if they'll be too loud for me.

Long tubes won't be to bad if you keep the stock cat backs,or get the titanium oem setup. A lot of people love the sound of the titanium. I've got the borla stingers and I love em. They have good tone and when you shift into 6th on the highway, they are nearly silent. There's more road noise from the tires than from the pipes.

I got into a huge argument with the resident douchebag of the corvette forums (Evil-twin, one of th c5 engineers) over how my borlas have no drone, and he kept going on how they designed the c5 with Corsa and he learned everything he needed to know about exhaust harmonics and drone, and how the Corsa exhaust is the only one that has no drone. Bunch of back and forth happened until David Borla comes in and says that all of their exhausts were revamped 5 years ago to get rid of drone in their c5 and c6 models.

For the record, I've got an 02 z06 with xs power headers and cat delete x pipe and borlas. I went catless because race car. And because my town don't sniff test.

Cool the S-Type II exhaust is the stinger v2 essentially, and I was thinking about the XS power headers with high flow cat, but maybe catless.

[CaleDeRoo]

Man I want the power of long tubes but idk if they'll be too loud for me.

Long tubes won't be to bad if you keep the stock cat backs,or get the titanium oem setup. A lot of people love the sound of the titanium. I've got the borla stingers and I love em. They have good tone and when you shift into 6th on the highway, they are nearly silent. There's more road noise from the tires than from the pipes.

I got into a huge argument with the resident douchebag of the corvette forums (Evil-twin, one of th c5 engineers) over how my borlas have no drone, and he kept going on how they designed the c5 with Corsa and he learned everything he needed to know about exhaust harmonics and drone, and how the Corsa exhaust is the only one that has no drone. Bunch of back and forth happened until David Borla comes in and says that all of their exhausts were revamped 5 years ago to get rid of drone in their c5 and c6 models.

For the record, I've got an 02 z06 with xs power headers and cat delete x pipe and borlas. I went catless because race car. And because my town don't sniff test.

Cool the S-Type II exhaust is the stinger v2 essentially, and I was thinking about the XS power headers with high flow cat, but maybe catless.

[D Griff]

Yeah always have all the knowledge. I might just move forward with wheels and tars... Some sources say storing them in the cold is no bueno. I would only drive the car on warmer days.

Do the headers dude, I'm too much of a bitch but that would be awesome.

Also agreed on the Borla stinger, it's the perfect exhaust, loud when you want it to be, quiet when you don't.

[CaleDeRoo]

I just want 115mph trap speeds

[D Griff]

Mine actually came off easily-ish with the weird rubber ended pliers designed for that. I actually found that whole job to be not as bad as advertised other than the damn #7 plug.

I'm going to pull my intake manifold tomorrow, replace the oil pressure sensor, check my CEL and try to fix whatever that is, replace rear rotors, bondo my rear tub thing, etc. I miss the and want to get it up to snuff.

I'm on what to do with the tire situation. My front PSS are absolute toast with the right unit leaking to the point of needing a fill any morning I want to drive the car. I could just get some cheapo all seasons, or could go ahead with the new and track oriented tars, just on he tars being stored (on the car) outside all winter, it can get into the teens/twenties here occasionally.

Be sure to keep note of the vacuum hose on the back of the intake manifold that goes to something behind the motor. You might pull it off and not realize it's off. It controls the ac vent controls. If you start the car and turn on the ac and move it from face to floor and back, and it blows out of every vent the same, that hose is not connected. Took me a while to figure that out. I ran an extension so that I could have more stretch on it the next time I removed it.

The tiny ass one in the middle of this picture?

[Acid666]

Be sure to keep note of the vacuum hose on the back of the intake manifold that goes to something behind the motor. You might pull it off and not realize it's off. It controls the ac vent controls. If you start the car and turn on the ac and move it from face to floor and back, and it blows out of every vent the same, that hose is not connected. Took me a while to figure that out. I ran an extension so that I could have more stretch on it the next time I removed it.

The tiny ass one in the middle of this picture?

That looks like it. I couldn't find mine because it fell behind the motor and blended in. It was short enough to separate from its connection that I didn't see it when I reassembled it. That's why I added an extension to it to give myself an extra 10" or so of slack

[D Griff]

The tiny ass one in the middle of this picture?

That looks like it. I couldn't find mine because it fell behind the motor and blended in. It was short enough to separate from its connection that I didn't see it when I reassembled it. That's why I added an extension to it to give myself an extra 10" or so of slack

I was rushing putting it back together since it was starting to rain and missed it ol:

Ended up having to redo the whole thing in the rain and that fitting was a bitch to get without extending. All is well now and the sender fixed it... CEL also went away

Getting the IM off in 10 minutes is air boatery by the way. Even after doing it twice today I think it would take me at least 40 minutes.

[Acid666]

That looks like it. I couldn't find mine because it fell behind the motor and blended in. It was short enough to separate from its connection that I didn't see it when I reassembled it. That's why I added an extension to it to give myself an extra 10" or so of slack

I was rushing putting it back together since it was starting to rain and missed it ol:

Ended up having to redo the whole thing in the rain and that fitting was a bitch to get without extending. All is well now and the sender fixed it... CEL also went away

Getting the IM off in 10 minutes is air boatery by the way. Even after doing it twice today I think it would take me at least 40 minutes.

Hahah sorry for the pain. But welcome to the club. I did it several times... put it together only to realize I need to remove the whole thing again. As for the 10 minutes, that comes from having to do it over and over. 10mm deep socket and an impact, fuel line separator, knowing which radiator lines to pull.... easy peasy. I just blast thru it. For the hose extension I just found some hose that I had that was bigger and fit the inside of the oem hose and I just found some plastic clamps to keep it airtight.

At least you knew about the hose and didn't have to spent days figuring it out. That's why I warned ya to save you from the headache

[D Griff]

I was rushing putting it back together since it was starting to rain and missed it ol:

Ended up having to redo the whole thing in the rain and that fitting was a bitch to get without extending. All is well now and the sender fixed it... CEL also went away

Getting the IM off in 10 minutes is air boatery by the way. Even after doing it twice today I think it would take me at least 40 minutes.

Hahah sorry for the pain. But welcome to the club. I did it several times... put it together only to realize I need to remove the whole thing again. As for the 10 minutes, that comes from having to do it over and over. 10mm deep socket and an impact, fuel line separator, knowing which radiator lines to pull.... easy peasy. I just blast thru it. For the hose extension I just found some hose that I had that was bigger and fit the inside of the oem hose and I just found some plastic clamps to keep it airtight.

At least you knew about the hose and didn't have to spent days figuring it out. That's why I warned ya to save you from the headache

Yeah man, I appreciate that. Fired up my car and heard a whistle, vacuum leak. I probably would've been but remembered what you said when I was taking it apart and actually saw it back there... totally slipped my mind when reassembling because I was trying to get it on ASAP as the rain poured into my motor. The silver lining is that if I need to do that again in the future, it'll be really easy, after doing a job twice, I seem to pretty much remember forever.

[CaleDeRoo]

Got the car over to storage today. Any recommend a cover? Don't want to break the bank, as I need to save for more power.

[Acid666]

Got the car over to storage today. Any recommend a cover? Don't want to break the bank, as I need to save for more power.

I got this one on a whim a while back and I really love it. It's nothing super fancy, but it's not super easy to tear either.
I used a tarp hole punch thing to hammer in a little ring where the shorty antenna goes. This cover works great for keeping it indoors, but not for an outdoor use as it won't weather the elements very well.
Good bang for the buck.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DE ... UTF8&psc=1

[D Griff]

Man... I don't even remember what my cover is, but it's pretty good quality and was under $100.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Let's nerd out on headers for a second.

When I did the heads and cam in my car, I ended up REALLY pleased with the top end power. Problem is, the top end power doesn't really kick in until 4k RPM, and I found the tq gains below 4k to be a bit disappointing.

I'm running XS Power 1 3/4 4-1 headers with catted x-pipe, and have for years. And while fitment and everything has been mostly fine, I've always wondered if I could improve my torque and under the curve performance with something like tri y headers...like the Pfadt/AFE headers.

SUPPOSEDLY the tri y design is better for torque and mid range under the curve power, with some risk of loss on upper end. Now that my car is pretty much 100% street, I'd be OK losing some of the insane top end for more grunt down low.

Found a dude on Facebook Marketplace selling a set of Pfadt headers and x-pipe for $900, which is a pretty solid deal considering they're $2k+ new.

Where I'm hung up is if it's just the nature of my somewhat large cam (227/234 113+2) and I just need to live with it, or could different headers really make a difference? Info is scarce out there about the benefits of tri y design headers on a cammed car like mine. Anyone nerd out on header design?

Dis:
https://afepower.com/afe-power-48c34124 ... be-headers

[Acid666]

Let's nerd out on headers for a second.

When I did the heads and cam in my car, I ended up REALLY pleased with the top end power. Problem is, the top end power doesn't really kick in until 4k RPM, and I found the tq gains below 4k to be a bit disappointing.

I'm running XS Power 1 3/4 4-1 headers with catted x-pipe, and have for years. And while fitment and everything has been mostly fine, I've always wondered if I could improve my torque and under the curve performance with something like tri y headers...like the Pfadt/AFE headers.

SUPPOSEDLY the tri y design is better for torque and mid range under the curve power, with some risk of loss on upper end. Now that my car is pretty much 100% street, I'd be OK losing some of the insane top end for more grunt down low.

Found a dude on Facebook Marketplace selling a set of Pfadt headers and x-pipe for $900, which is a pretty solid deal considering they're $2k+ new.

Where I'm hung up is if it's just the nature of my somewhat large cam (227/234 113+2) and I just need to live with it, or could different headers really make a difference? Info is scarce out there about the benefits of tri y design headers on a cammed car like mine. Anyone nerd out on header design?

Dis:
https://afepower.com/afe-power-48c34124 ... be-headers

Tri-Y is definitely the way to go if you're looking for big torque gains in the areas you're looking. A friend of mine that's got a C5 that strictly tracks his just bought a new pair to replace some LGs. He's ALL about that lower rpm power. For me, I'm in the same boat as you, I don't really care about the high end power anymore. I only really want more power down low and in the middle for autocross.

My car is finally starting to scare me with the power level. I hit up an Autocross in New Orleans and all of us in the heat with high power had NOTHING but trouble with traction. It was so bad that I couldn't even get past the first cone near the timers without the rear sliding out. I was down to 23psi in the rear too. Just wasn't working and I couldn't smooth out my lines for a fast time.
All that shit this weekend made me contemplate if I wanted more power with a cam, where would it be. I don't need top end, but low end I'm wondering if more power is going to make it more difficult to control.

[4zilch]

Let's nerd out on headers for a second.

When I did the heads and cam in my car, I ended up REALLY pleased with the top end power. Problem is, the top end power doesn't really kick in until 4k RPM, and I found the tq gains below 4k to be a bit disappointing.

I'm running XS Power 1 3/4 4-1 headers with catted x-pipe, and have for years. And while fitment and everything has been mostly fine, I've always wondered if I could improve my torque and under the curve performance with something like tri y headers...like the Pfadt/AFE headers.

SUPPOSEDLY the tri y design is better for torque and mid range under the curve power, with some risk of loss on upper end. Now that my car is pretty much 100% street, I'd be OK losing some of the insane top end for more grunt down low.

Found a dude on Facebook Marketplace selling a set of Pfadt headers and x-pipe for $900, which is a pretty solid deal considering they're $2k+ new.

Where I'm hung up is if it's just the nature of my somewhat large cam (227/234 113+2) and I just need to live with it, or could different headers really make a difference? Info is scarce out there about the benefits of tri y design headers on a cammed car like mine. Anyone nerd out on header design?

Dis:
https://afepower.com/afe-power-48c34124 ... be-headers

With the cam and heads, I doubt you have enough intake velocity at lower RPM for the headers to make much difference. You could potentially end up losing a little bit from where you are going from 1 3/4" to 1-7/8" tubes. All that being said, I'm no expert in tuning intakes and exhausts for optimal performance and could be completely

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Let's nerd out on headers for a second.

When I did the heads and cam in my car, I ended up REALLY pleased with the top end power. Problem is, the top end power doesn't really kick in until 4k RPM, and I found the tq gains below 4k to be a bit disappointing.

I'm running XS Power 1 3/4 4-1 headers with catted x-pipe, and have for years. And while fitment and everything has been mostly fine, I've always wondered if I could improve my torque and under the curve performance with something like tri y headers...like the Pfadt/AFE headers.

SUPPOSEDLY the tri y design is better for torque and mid range under the curve power, with some risk of loss on upper end. Now that my car is pretty much 100% street, I'd be OK losing some of the insane top end for more grunt down low.

Found a dude on Facebook Marketplace selling a set of Pfadt headers and x-pipe for $900, which is a pretty solid deal considering they're $2k+ new.

Where I'm hung up is if it's just the nature of my somewhat large cam (227/234 113+2) and I just need to live with it, or could different headers really make a difference? Info is scarce out there about the benefits of tri y design headers on a cammed car like mine. Anyone nerd out on header design?

Dis:
https://afepower.com/afe-power-48c34124 ... be-headers

With the cam and heads, I doubt you have enough intake velocity at lower RPM for the headers to make much difference. You could potentially end up losing a little bit from where you are going from 1 3/4" to 1-7/8" tubes. All that being said, I'm no expert in tuning intakes and exhausts for optimal performance and could be completely

See, this is exactly what I'm thinking.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Let's nerd out on headers for a second.

When I did the heads and cam in my car, I ended up REALLY pleased with the top end power. Problem is, the top end power doesn't really kick in until 4k RPM, and I found the tq gains below 4k to be a bit disappointing.

I'm running XS Power 1 3/4 4-1 headers with catted x-pipe, and have for years. And while fitment and everything has been mostly fine, I've always wondered if I could improve my torque and under the curve performance with something like tri y headers...like the Pfadt/AFE headers.

SUPPOSEDLY the tri y design is better for torque and mid range under the curve power, with some risk of loss on upper end. Now that my car is pretty much 100% street, I'd be OK losing some of the insane top end for more grunt down low.

Found a dude on Facebook Marketplace selling a set of Pfadt headers and x-pipe for $900, which is a pretty solid deal considering they're $2k+ new.

Where I'm hung up is if it's just the nature of my somewhat large cam (227/234 113+2) and I just need to live with it, or could different headers really make a difference? Info is scarce out there about the benefits of tri y design headers on a cammed car like mine. Anyone nerd out on header design?

Dis:
https://afepower.com/afe-power-48c34124 ... be-headers

Tri-Y is definitely the way to go if you're looking for big torque gains in the areas you're looking. A friend of mine that's got a C5 that strictly tracks his just bought a new pair to replace some LGs. He's ALL about that lower rpm power. For me, I'm in the same boat as you, I don't really care about the high end power anymore. I only really want more power down low and in the middle for autocross.

My car is finally starting to scare me with the power level. I hit up an Autocross in New Orleans and all of us in the heat with high power had NOTHING but trouble with traction. It was so bad that I couldn't even get past the first cone near the timers without the rear sliding out. I was down to 23psi in the rear too. Just wasn't working and I couldn't smooth out my lines for a fast time.
All that shit this weekend made me contemplate if I wanted more power with a cam, where would it be. I don't need top end, but low end I'm wondering if more power is going to make it more difficult to control.

Everything I read about tri-y headers is this in a nutshell, but only on stock heads/cam cars. Can't find anything on the impact on a heads/cam car...so I'm wondering a bit more about the engineer theory.

If you're already having traction issues, I don't see how a cam will fix anything.

My car is a if I give it WOT in 1st gear at all. 1st gear is pretty much worthless. Could also be the 4.10's too

[CaleDeRoo]

I'm still thinking about the XS power headers for my car. I'm I wouldn't really loose any mid-range with the stock cam?

[Acid666]

I'm still thinking about the XS power headers for my car. I'm I wouldn't really loose any mid-range with the stock cam?

XS power is a great bang for the buck. I don't regret mine one bit. That price was
I think I paid $675 for their catless setup on sale. $100 off and with free shipping. BOO YAHHHHHHH

[Acid666]

Everything I read about tri-y headers is this in a nutshell, but only on stock heads/cam cars. Can't find anything on the impact on a heads/cam car...so I'm wondering a bit more about the engineer theory.

If you're already having traction issues, I don't see how a cam will fix anything.

My car is a if I give it WOT in 1st gear at all. 1st gear is pretty much worthless. Could also be the 4.10's too

Let me message my buddy with the race C5 and tri-y setup. He's a BIG numbers guy and is constantly tinkering with his tuning and shit for NASA races where he had to detune his car for the class he races in. His C5 has an LS3 with a lot of parts in it, so he'll likely know where to go with the numbers. Gimme a bit to message him and get a response

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Everything I read about tri-y headers is this in a nutshell, but only on stock heads/cam cars. Can't find anything on the impact on a heads/cam car...so I'm wondering a bit more about the engineer theory.

If you're already having traction issues, I don't see how a cam will fix anything.

My car is a if I give it WOT in 1st gear at all. 1st gear is pretty much worthless. Could also be the 4.10's too

Let me message my buddy with the race C5 and tri-y setup. He's a BIG numbers guy and is constantly tinkering with his tuning and shit for NASA races where he had to detune his car for the class he races in. His C5 has an LS3 with a lot of parts in it, so he'll likely know where to go with the numbers. Gimme a bit to message him and get a response

Thanks bro.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

I'm still thinking about the XS power headers for my car. I'm I wouldn't really loose any mid-range with the stock cam?

No...you won't lose any mid-range with the stock cam. My car was fantastic with the XS Power headers and stock cam...especially after the dyno tune.