Do you fit in them?D Griff wrote: ↑Thu Jul 12, 2018 11:23 pm https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/d/ ... 93353.html
This dude wants to trade for a Corvette...
Obligatory C5 Thread
- max225
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So many fucking questions ...D Griff wrote: ↑Thu Jul 12, 2018 11:23 pm https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/d/ ... 93353.html
This dude wants to trade for a Corvette...
First off what the fuck is a Japan car ? Same as an Oriental car?
He also wants to trade for a Kia Soul or a Porsche ... very reasonable guy it seems
- ChrisoftheNorth
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The Kia Soul is the most cross-shopped vehicle for the Porsche brand. Duh.max225 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 13, 2018 12:19 pmSo many fucking questions ...D Griff wrote: ↑Thu Jul 12, 2018 11:23 pm https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/d/ ... 93353.html
This dude wants to trade for a Corvette...
First off what the fuck is a Japan car ? Same as an Oriental car?
He also wants to trade for a Kia Soul or a Porsche ... very reasonable guy it seems
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- max225
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Selling in the middle of summer for a 15 y/o daughter you can’t legally drive for god knows how long
clean s2k in the pictures though.... that’s hard to find most are slAmMeD on SKunK 2 coilovers and HaNDLE like a gO KartZ
- Acid666
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Does anyone know if the steering shaft is hollow or solid? I knew mine was rubbing the header, I just have to find the time to tear it all apart to dent it in to clear it. I don't think I can dent it installed on the car because I don't think I can get the leverage to actually put a dent in the piping in that location. So it might have to be removed.
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Oh shoot, yours is rubbing worse than mine was. No idea if the steering shaft is solid or not, but I wouldn't push it for long.Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 19, 2018 1:53 pm Does anyone know if the steering shaft is hollow or solid? I knew mine was rubbing the header, I just have to find the time to tear it all apart to dent it in to clear it. I don't think I can dent it installed on the car because I don't think I can get the leverage to actually put a dent in the piping in that location. So it might have to be removed.
I tried every which way to clearance the primary with the header on the car. Whatever grade of SS they used is STRONG, so I had to pull it off the car and tap away with heat, a large socket, and a BFH.
Luckily, the driver's side shouldn't be too bad on it's own, still a pain. The ONE negative I have with the XS Power headers is the steering shaft clearance.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Acid666
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Yeah, I don't expect to be able to dent a round pipe without leverage. Unless I remove the wheel well, there's no way I'm gonna be able to line a big hammer 90° from the primary. Easiest thing to do is just say fuck it and remove the whole thing and bang it outside the car. I've got a race this sunday and a racing class that the wife is signed up for on Saturday. I may need to pull an all nighter to fuck with this before the 2 hour trip there on Friday.Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Jul 19, 2018 5:22 pm Oh shoot, yours is rubbing worse than mine was. No idea if the steering shaft is solid or not, but I wouldn't push it for long.
I tried every which way to clearance the primary with the header on the car. Whatever grade of SS they used is STRONG, so I had to pull it off the car and tap away with heat, a large socket, and a BFH.
Luckily, the driver's side shouldn't be too bad on it's own, still a pain. The ONE negative I have with the XS Power headers is the steering shaft clearance.
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Since you've already done it, you should be able to make quick work of getting it out and back in. Pop the wires off, probably the plugs to be save them, disconnect steering shaft, pop off the xpipe and drop the header. I bet you could do it in under 4 hours.Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 19, 2018 5:44 pmYeah, I don't expect to be able to dent a round pipe without leverage. Unless I remove the wheel well, there's no way I'm gonna be able to line a big hammer 90° from the primary. Easiest thing to do is just say fuck it and remove the whole thing and bang it outside the car. I've got a race this sunday and a racing class that the wife is signed up for on Saturday. I may need to pull an all nighter to fuck with this before the 2 hour trip there on Friday.Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Jul 19, 2018 5:22 pm Oh shoot, yours is rubbing worse than mine was. No idea if the steering shaft is solid or not, but I wouldn't push it for long.
I tried every which way to clearance the primary with the header on the car. Whatever grade of SS they used is STRONG, so I had to pull it off the car and tap away with heat, a large socket, and a BFH.
Luckily, the driver's side shouldn't be too bad on it's own, still a pain. The ONE negative I have with the XS Power headers is the steering shaft clearance.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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It's in the air right now. I need to reattach all the spark plug wires too because ones missing. So it's got a bog when I floor it. Waiting for the engine and pipes to cool down a bit before I start unbolting things, but I'm prepping right now because it's gotta be done tonight.
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So I just finished. Started around 6:30, and it's 12:21am. I took a couple of hours in the middle to run to a buddy's to get a sledge hammer that had a point on it. Turns out I could of likely done without it.
Also spent about 45 minutes trying to mess with two pieces of the castings where the headers kept clashing, and ended up breaking out the dremel and just grinding them bitches off. Made a WORLD of difference. It's funny how at first I was all trying to protect the coating, and after I started fucking with it, I could give two shits about the major scratches. The banging didn't strip much of it off either. Was kind of impressed with that. One thing I noticed was the headers held hardly any heat. 2 hours after I turned the car off all the cast parts were still hot to the touch, but the headers were luke warm. Likely because there's no thick casting to hold the heat, but the ceramic coating definitely was worth it.
It steered a lot smoother too. So it was rubbing. Also, I unplugged all of the spark plugs and reset them. I was getting a bogging like one plug wasn't connected earlier today. Seems to be gone. But when I was flooring it on the highway earlier to test it out the car seems to float a lot more than before. Almost like the suspension isn't settled from it being on the lift or something. Felt weird. But I'm sure it'll go away.
Glad I fixed this. Eases my mind about going 2 hours away and racing all weekend in Nola and the steering getting wobbly on I-10
Also spent about 45 minutes trying to mess with two pieces of the castings where the headers kept clashing, and ended up breaking out the dremel and just grinding them bitches off. Made a WORLD of difference. It's funny how at first I was all trying to protect the coating, and after I started fucking with it, I could give two shits about the major scratches. The banging didn't strip much of it off either. Was kind of impressed with that. One thing I noticed was the headers held hardly any heat. 2 hours after I turned the car off all the cast parts were still hot to the touch, but the headers were luke warm. Likely because there's no thick casting to hold the heat, but the ceramic coating definitely was worth it.
It steered a lot smoother too. So it was rubbing. Also, I unplugged all of the spark plugs and reset them. I was getting a bogging like one plug wasn't connected earlier today. Seems to be gone. But when I was flooring it on the highway earlier to test it out the car seems to float a lot more than before. Almost like the suspension isn't settled from it being on the lift or something. Felt weird. But I'm sure it'll go away.
Glad I fixed this. Eases my mind about going 2 hours away and racing all weekend in Nola and the steering getting wobbly on I-10
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Yea, so ~4 hours of working time. at all.
Also, I noticed it takes a bit for the suspension to settle after the car is lifted. Definitely feels "weird" for the first 10 miles or so.
Also, I noticed it takes a bit for the suspension to settle after the car is lifted. Definitely feels "weird" for the first 10 miles or so.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Desertbreh wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:03 pm I'm thinking about springing for these.....
http://store.afecontrol.com/afe-control ... -c6-97-13/
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- troyguitar
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Skip that, I had those...Desertbreh wrote:I'm thinking about springing for these.....
http://store.afecontrol.com/afe-control ... -c6-97-13/
You want an OEM C6ZR1 front bar and your stock rear bar. 10 minute install, better than JOC set and cheaper.
- max225
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Yellow>BlackDetroit wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:04 pmDesertbreh wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:03 pm I'm thinking about springing for these.....
http://store.afecontrol.com/afe-control ... -c6-97-13/
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The adjustability on the rear bar is of no value?troyguitar wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:07 pmSkip that, I had those...Desertbreh wrote:I'm thinking about springing for these.....
http://store.afecontrol.com/afe-control ... -c6-97-13/
You want an OEM C6ZR1 front bar and your stock rear bar. 10 minute install, better than JOC set and cheaper.
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The yellow is pretty fly but mostly just looking for better turn in and less understeer since I don't run 315s all around.
- max225
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You have induced understeer on the 275s up front? that must have been one crazy wing deal special at hootersDesertbreh wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:40 pmThe yellow is pretty fly but mostly just looking for better turn in and less understeer since I don't run 315s all around.
- CorvetteWaxer
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$7:Desertbreh wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:40 pmThe yellow is pretty fly but mostly just looking for better turn in and less understeer since I don't run 315s all around.
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LOL guise. I understand that I'm not dialing in my next Auto-X win. Just looking for a little less roll in front.
Troy, I gather you think the adjustability and fancy endlinks are pointless? Because that's what you're paying for other than the fancy color and marketing.
Troy, I gather you think the adjustability and fancy endlinks are pointless? Because that's what you're paying for other than the fancy color and marketing.
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CorvetteWaxer wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:47 pm$7:Desertbreh wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:40 pm
The yellow is pretty fly but mostly just looking for better turn in and less understeer since I don't run 315s all around.
- max225
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You're going to adjust your swaybars ? Lesbihonest here. That's not the point of the Bruiser here.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:48 pm LOL guise. I understand that I'm not dialing in my next Auto-X win. Just looking for a little less roll in front.
Troy, I gather you think the adjustability and fancy endlinks are pointless? Because that's what you're paying for other than the fancy color and marketing.
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It's not pointless, but the main benefit is the ability to adjust handling balance for different surfaces i.e. soften the rear bar when it's cold or raining. If you only drive the car when it's warm and dry, there's no real need to adjust anything.Desertbreh wrote:LOL guise. I understand that I'm not dialing in my next Auto-X win. Just looking for a little less roll in front.
Troy, I gather you think the adjustability and fancy endlinks are pointless? Because that's what you're paying for other than the fancy color and marketing.
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I know that brah. Only the rear is adjustable on JOC. If I'm going to make a change the adjustable allows room for error. But I would trust Troy's opinion. And yep it's waayyyy cheaper.max225 wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:51 pmYou're going to adjust your swaybars ? Lesbihonest here. That's not the point of the Bruiser here.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:48 pm LOL guise. I understand that I'm not dialing in my next Auto-X win. Just looking for a little less roll in front.
Troy, I gather you think the adjustability and fancy endlinks are pointless? Because that's what you're paying for other than the fancy color and marketing.
I had Hotchkiss adjustables on my GayTI and changed them around.
- max225
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I understand that the Gayti was a heep of rusty swasticas melted together to form a shitbox. But the GS, is in another league, I can't imagine you approaching the limits on any type of driving that may be done on city streets where you need a bigger sway. Don't waste your money that weekend in Tijuana Wine Valley or what not sounds like a far better use of those funds that a yellow suppository.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Wed Jul 25, 2018 8:00 pmI know that brah. Only the rear is adjustable on JOC. If I'm going to make a change the adjustable allows room for error. But I would trust Troy's opinion. And yep it's waayyyy cheaper.
I had Hotchkiss adjustables on my GayTI and changed them around.