C5 cupholder is can sized and only about an inch deep so I'm hesitant to buy one[user not found] wrote: ↑Fri Apr 26, 2019 12:07 pmI've got a Macally one that works well in most cars, but doesn't work in the
Rook rike dis:
Obligatory C5 Thread
- CaleDeRoo
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The spring you're referencing is a $2 spring attached to a piece custom cut aluminum. You could easily fab this up for just a few bucks and not have to pay the unreal price of your first born child
https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L3 ... MMyHaROk0M
- CaleDeRoo
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Yeah I could probably make something at work, but is it worth the time? I'm considering buying it, copying it with some scrap I've got at work and sending it back, which would eliminate some guess work and me having to go back and forth under my dash to make sure everything fits correctly.
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CeleDeRoo pulling the old SwitchErRoo ....... coincidence? I think not.......CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Fri Apr 26, 2019 2:04 pm Yeah I could probably make something at work, but is it worth the time? I'm considering buying it, copying it with some scrap I've got at work and sending it back, which would eliminate some guess work and me having to go back and forth under my dash to make sure everything fits correctly.
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That spring is easy. Grab a few and try a few different tensions to figure which works best.CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Fri Apr 26, 2019 2:04 pm Yeah I could probably make something at work, but is it worth the time? I'm considering buying it, copying it with some scrap I've got at work and sending it back, which would eliminate some guess work and me having to go back and forth under my dash to make sure everything fits correctly.
That little bracket, literally a piece of raw aluminum stock with a slot cut out of it, and a hole drilled in it, and a tapped screw into the side where a set screw is thrown in.
You can cut aluminum with a lot of things around the house. Or you could fab up your own thing with several pieces where you drill and tap and create your own bracket.
I'm guessing I could make that thing for under $10-15 and then spend the other $70 that I saved from Dr Lingenfelter himself on the www.GimpsGoneWild.com... AND have enough left over to replenish some of my JB Weld stash.
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What does this spring do? Most people remove clutch pedal springs...
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- troyguitar
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Just use a bungee cord.Acid666 wrote:That spring is easy. Grab a few and try a few different tensions to figure which works best.CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Fri Apr 26, 2019 2:04 pm Yeah I could probably make something at work, but is it worth the time? I'm considering buying it, copying it with some scrap I've got at work and sending it back, which would eliminate some guess work and me having to go back and forth under my dash to make sure everything fits correctly.
That little bracket, literally a piece of raw aluminum stock with a slot cut out of it, and a hole drilled in it, and a tapped screw into the side where a set screw is thrown in.
You can cut aluminum with a lot of things around the house. Or you could fab up your own thing with several pieces where you drill and tap and create your own bracket.
I'm guessing I could make that thing for under $10-15 and then spend the other $70 that I saved from Dr Lingenfelter himself on the www.GimpsGoneWild.com... AND have enough left over to replenish some of my JB Weld stash.
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If you haven't fully flushed out the clutch fluid from the slave cylinder the pedal sometimes has a tendency to stick to the floor when you mash it and get higher into the rpms. You have to shove your foot below it and pull it back up. From what I read after it happened to me a full flush of the system solves this, but you've basically got to have the remote bleeder installed to easily bleed it often. The spring just brings it back to zero with more force than the factory setup.
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Interesting...seems like more of a bandaid than anything.Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:32 pmIf you haven't fully flushed out the clutch fluid from the slave cylinder the pedal sometimes has a tendency to stick to the floor when you mash it and get higher into the rpms. You have to shove your foot below it and pull it back up. From what I read after it happened to me a full flush of the system solves this, but you've basically got to have the remote bleeder installed to easily bleed it often. The spring just brings it back to zero with more force than the factory setup.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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This is some good insight as to the WHY.Detroit wrote: ↑Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:35 pmInteresting...seems like more of a bandaid than anything.Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:32 pm
If you haven't fully flushed out the clutch fluid from the slave cylinder the pedal sometimes has a tendency to stick to the floor when you mash it and get higher into the rpms. You have to shove your foot below it and pull it back up. From what I read after it happened to me a full flush of the system solves this, but you've basically got to have the remote bleeder installed to easily bleed it often. The spring just brings it back to zero with more force than the factory setup.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engine ... -speaking/
This is also where the "Ranger" method came in to kind of cheat and replace your fluid, even tho it really isn't replacing anything... Just pulling old shit out and filling it with new shit. I personally get a hose down as deep as possible into my master cylinder and push clean fluid in from as far down as possible (the old black shit comes up and then I remove that from the reservoir). But the proper way is to do a real bleed, but most people don't wanna get down into the bellhousing area to get to the bleed nipple. Hence why the remote bleeder exists.
Last edited by Acid666 on Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Interesting.Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:42 pmThis is some good insight as to the WHY.
This is also where the "Ranger" method came in to kind of cheat and replace your fluid, even tho it really isn't replacing anything... Just pulling old shit out and filling it with new shit. I personally get a hose down as deep as possible into my master cylinder and push clean fluid in from as far down as possible (the old black shit comes up and then I remove that from the reservoir). But the proper way is to do a real bleed, but most people don't wanna get down into the bellhousing area to get to the bleed nipple. Hence why the remote bleeder exists.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Forgot the link, Check it
It has a lot to do with the fact that Chevy put the slave cylinder really close to the bellhousing area. And it breaks down the fluid faster there since it's prone to get more heat.
It has a lot to do with the fact that Chevy put the slave cylinder really close to the bellhousing area. And it breaks down the fluid faster there since it's prone to get more heat.
Last edited by Acid666 on Fri Apr 26, 2019 3:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- troyguitar
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Remote bleed line belongs on every con
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Oh wow, I didn't know the details. The slave cylinder is basically IN the bellhousing BTW.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Reminds me...I need to bleed my clutch.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
When I got my the clutch fluid was basically black. it made reverse a pain to get in and first gear was no walk in the park either. Replaced the clutch and tranny fluid and its muy bueno. I've got into the habit of changing the clutch fluid every fill up.
I use the same fluid as brakes - ATE Bloo. Lots of ATE haters on the web I know, but it’s relatively affordable and hasn’t boiled yet on the track and I’ve cracked rotors so I’m using the brakes hard I think.CaleDeRoo wrote: ↑Fri Apr 26, 2019 10:08 am I was wondering if the frost on the car in the morning may have gotten moisture somewhere in the door and that was the reason? After my spirited drive home the window worked again. Didn't try it this morning since it was pouring.
Has anyone tried high temp fluid for the clutch along with a Lingenfelter return spring?
I’m going to attempt the bleeding procedure in the trans tunnel next weekend.
I have zero fabrication skills and no garage... I might just blow the $80 on the spring bandaid and do the ranger method 20 more times.... just read all of this.
After reading that article, it sounds like the only real solution is replacing the cylinders and fluid (duh) which is a huge task... seems like the bandaid solution is simple, will work, and is ultimately $10 in brake fluid and $80 for an overpriced part. I don’t mind supporting the bros who made the effort to find a solution, albeit a silly one.
After reading that article, it sounds like the only real solution is replacing the cylinders and fluid (duh) which is a huge task... seems like the bandaid solution is simple, will work, and is ultimately $10 in brake fluid and $80 for an overpriced part. I don’t mind supporting the bros who made the effort to find a solution, albeit a silly one.