Obligatory C5 Thread

[Acid666]

[Tar]

Ahh see that now. Done like dinner... so while you're pulling engine mounts like it's child's play I'm pussyfooting behind lunch packs and bedtime stories. I assume no shudder or vibration to note? I might need to start at the rear end, no way my engine mounts are that bad.

[Acid666]

Ahh see that now. Done like dinner... so while you're pulling engine mounts like it's child's play I'm pussyfooting behind lunch packs and bedtime stories. I assume no shudder or vibration to note? I might need to start at the rear end, no way my engine mounts are that bad.

My car has a shake at idle, but I never noticed it at speed. It's not making any noises either. I hear these new hinson mounts make the driveline firmer to where it just makes it feel like it's more responsive to your inputs. But no, nothing like wild noises or massive shaking or anything. Just off the wall kicking at stop lights when it's idling. No telling how much the motor was moving when I was balls to the wall during autocross.

Keep in mind my car isn't back together yet so I can't tell how much difference there is before and after

[Tar]

Ahh see that now. Done like dinner... so while you're pulling engine mounts like it's child's play I'm pussyfooting behind lunch packs and bedtime stories. I assume no shudder or vibration to note? I might need to start at the rear end, no way my engine mounts are that bad.

My car has a shake at idle, but I never noticed it at speed. It's not making any noises either. I hear these new hinson mounts make the driveline firmer to where it just makes it feel like it's more responsive to your inputs. But no, nothing like wild noises or massive shaking or anything. Just off the wall kicking at stop lights when it's idling. No telling how much the motor was moving when I was balls to the wall during autocross.

Keep in mind my car isn't back together yet so I can't tell how much difference there is before and after

Got it, thanks for the input man!

[Melon]

[ChrisoftheNorth]

The motor mounts are known problem points. Headers is the best time to get the mounts swapped, you'll be continually thankful that you did it.

Mine were shot, but it wasn't really obvious until under hard corners, the headers would contact the steering shaft. I changed my motor mounts when I had the car apart for the clutch change...and wish I had done it sooner.

Tar, I doubt these are your problem. It's very likely something in the driveline.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Acid,

are you trying to go in from the top or bottom with the driver's side? I had to go in from the bottom, but there's not enough clearance between the oil pan and the "frame rail" to fit it in. I left the bottom of the motor mounts loose where the mount meets the frame(because you can access those when everything is done) and used a prybar between the block and the "frame rails" to move the engine over just enough to slide the header up. It's a pain for sure.

I also ran the stock exhaust manifold bolts for a while without issue. They don't need to be torqued to hell, so they're ok to be reused. I only changed them out to go to studs because they're easier to hang the headers on and you don't have to risk cross-threading the rearward holes (which is easy to do). I just bought stainless studs on eBay for $20...the ARP ones were stupid money. My eBay stainless studs have been 5/7.

[Acid666]

Acid,

are you trying to go in from the top or bottom with the driver's side? I had to go in from the bottom, but there's not enough clearance between the oil pan and the "frame rail" to fit it in. I left the bottom of the motor mounts loose where the mount meets the frame(because you can access those when everything is done) and used a prybar between the block and the "frame rails" to move the engine over just enough to slide the header up. It's a pain for sure.

I also ran the stock exhaust manifold bolts for a while without issue. They don't need to be torqued to hell, so they're ok to be reused. I only changed them out to go to studs because they're easier to hang the headers on and you don't have to risk cross-threading the rearward holes (which is easy to do). I just bought stainless studs on eBay for $20...the ARP ones were stupid money. My eBay stainless studs have been 5/7.

I tried top and bottom from the driver's side. I'm reading that the easiest way is to remove the oil filter, take off the steering shaft, and grind that corner of the oil pan. That seems to be the single piece that's not allowing the rear bolt area to "pop" past. Once it's past that I can probably shove it thru. I've scraped up the headers a bit, which is expected. I might remove the passengers side and thermo tape a few of the things in there while I've got the space to put my hands in there and get to them. Looking at the driver's side O2 sensor, I have no idea how you stretched that thing to work. Maybe I can look at it and unhook it from any connections, but I've got 2 extensions coming in today so I'm just gonna leave em as is, thermo wrap em, and try to mount them away from heat.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Acid,

are you trying to go in from the top or bottom with the driver's side? I had to go in from the bottom, but there's not enough clearance between the oil pan and the "frame rail" to fit it in. I left the bottom of the motor mounts loose where the mount meets the frame(because you can access those when everything is done) and used a prybar between the block and the "frame rails" to move the engine over just enough to slide the header up. It's a pain for sure.

I also ran the stock exhaust manifold bolts for a while without issue. They don't need to be torqued to hell, so they're ok to be reused. I only changed them out to go to studs because they're easier to hang the headers on and you don't have to risk cross-threading the rearward holes (which is easy to do). I just bought stainless studs on eBay for $20...the ARP ones were stupid money. My eBay stainless studs have been 5/7.

I tried top and bottom from the driver's side. I'm reading that the easiest way is to remove the oil filter, take off the steering shaft, and grind that corner of the oil pan. That seems to be the single piece that's not allowing the rear bolt area to "pop" past. Once it's past that I can probably shove it thru. I've scraped up the headers a bit, which is expected. I might remove the passengers side and thermo tape a few of the things in there while I've got the space to put my hands in there and get to them. Looking at the driver's side O2 sensor, I have no idea how you stretched that thing to work. Maybe I can look at it and unhook it from any connections, but I've got 2 extensions coming in today so I'm just gonna leave em as is, thermo wrap em, and try to mount them away from heat.

Yea, it's the oil pan that gets in the way. Some grind, I just pushed it out of the way and jammed the header up. I didn't remove the steering shaft entirely, but I did disconnect it from the rack and push it to the side. The more room you can make, the better.

I dunno about the wiring. I installed my headers 3 years ago, and I don't recall doing anything special. I must have removed the wiring from a clip somewhere, but I know I've zip tied them to fuel lines or brake lines so their far from the headers. Thermo wrap is a good idea on the starter stuff. I didn't do that and haven't run into issues, but it's a really good idea especially since it's impossible to get to after the header is in place. I also highly recommend heat socks for your plug wires. I bought some on eBay that have been 5/7.

[Acid666]

I tried top and bottom from the driver's side. I'm reading that the easiest way is to remove the oil filter, take off the steering shaft, and grind that corner of the oil pan. That seems to be the single piece that's not allowing the rear bolt area to "pop" past. Once it's past that I can probably shove it thru. I've scraped up the headers a bit, which is expected. I might remove the passengers side and thermo tape a few of the things in there while I've got the space to put my hands in there and get to them. Looking at the driver's side O2 sensor, I have no idea how you stretched that thing to work. Maybe I can look at it and unhook it from any connections, but I've got 2 extensions coming in today so I'm just gonna leave em as is, thermo wrap em, and try to mount them away from heat.

Yea, it's the oil pan that gets in the way. Some grind, I just pushed it out of the way and jammed the header up. I didn't remove the steering shaft entirely, but I did disconnect it from the rack and push it to the side. The more room you can make, the better.

I dunno about the wiring. I installed my headers 3 years ago, and I don't recall doing anything special. I must have removed the wiring from a clip somewhere, but I know I've zip tied them to fuel lines or brake lines so their far from the headers. Thermo wrap is a good idea on the starter stuff. I didn't do that and haven't run into issues, but it's a really good idea especially since it's impossible to get to after the header is in place. I also highly recommend heat socks for your plug wires. I bought some on eBay that have been 5/7.

I have heat socks as well. The thermo tape was an afterthought once I realized that I would likely need the 02 extensions. It's all "while you're in there" stuff. I'm really glad I took your advice and got the motor mounts. I was thinking that the car had been garaged and well kept and likely they were fine, till I friend told me "Yeah, it's a 15 year old car, they're likely shot". I'm willing to bet that it's shaking a bit because of that and I'm just used to it. I expect a pretty good firmness once I get it all back running.
I've got tonight and the weekend to tinker so I'm expecting to have it done by the end of Saturday. So far I've been taking my time and not rushing anything. I haven't gotten frustrated with anything yet so it's been something nice to work on. I'm going to clean up while I'm in there as well. I think I've got a leaky PCV hose running from the intake manifold to the block because I'm constantly cleaning up grit in this one spot. So I might order that part and replace it (It's in an easy spot I can replace anytime I want honestly).

I'm curious if I'd have to remove that tunnel plate to get to the spot where the clutch bleeder valve is to run a remote one.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Yea, it's the oil pan that gets in the way. Some grind, I just pushed it out of the way and jammed the header up. I didn't remove the steering shaft entirely, but I did disconnect it from the rack and push it to the side. The more room you can make, the better.

I dunno about the wiring. I installed my headers 3 years ago, and I don't recall doing anything special. I must have removed the wiring from a clip somewhere, but I know I've zip tied them to fuel lines or brake lines so their far from the headers. Thermo wrap is a good idea on the starter stuff. I didn't do that and haven't run into issues, but it's a really good idea especially since it's impossible to get to after the header is in place. I also highly recommend heat socks for your plug wires. I bought some on eBay that have been 5/7.

I have heat socks as well. The thermo tape was an afterthought once I realized that I would likely need the 02 extensions. It's all "while you're in there" stuff. I'm really glad I took your advice and got the motor mounts. I was thinking that the car had been garaged and well kept and likely they were fine, till I friend told me "Yeah, it's a 15 year old car, they're likely shot". I'm willing to bet that it's shaking a bit because of that and I'm just used to it. I expect a pretty good firmness once I get it all back running.
I've got tonight and the weekend to tinker so I'm expecting to have it done by the end of Saturday. So far I've been taking my time and not rushing anything. I haven't gotten frustrated with anything yet so it's been something nice to work on. I'm going to clean up while I'm in there as well. I think I've got a leaky PCV hose running from the intake manifold to the block because I'm constantly cleaning up grit in this one spot. So I might order that part and replace it (It's in an easy spot I can replace anytime I want honestly).

I'm curious if I'd have to remove that tunnel plate to get to the spot where the clutch bleeder valve is to run a remote one.

PCV parts are cheap, definitely replace them. Good that you're taking your time, those are the best wrenching sessions!

The tunnel plate would have to come off to even start to get access to the bleeder on the clutch. But really, I don't think it's possible to swap to a remote bleeder with the torque tube in place. I installed mine on the slave cylinder before installing it on the torque tube, and I don't think there's another way to do it. You wouldn't be able to get a wrench in to tighten the fitting with the torque tube in place. if you tackle it

[Acid666]

The tunnel plate would have to come off to even start to get access to the bleeder on the clutch. But really, I don't think it's possible to swap to a remote bleeder with the torque tube in place. I installed mine on the slave cylinder before installing it on the torque tube, and I don't think there's another way to do it. You wouldn't be able to get a wrench in to tighten the fitting with the torque tube in place. if you tackle it

Yeah, see that's the kind of information I'm looking for. I'm not gonna deal with that right now.
If I need to do a clutch job, removing the crossover to get to the plate and torque tube isn't a big deal, so I'll just leave it as is.

I've got 315s coming in. Just waiting on the shop to finalize if they've got em in stock. The prices these guys have is ridiculous so I'm pumped

[ChrisoftheNorth]

The tunnel plate would have to come off to even start to get access to the bleeder on the clutch. But really, I don't think it's possible to swap to a remote bleeder with the torque tube in place. I installed mine on the slave cylinder before installing it on the torque tube, and I don't think there's another way to do it. You wouldn't be able to get a wrench in to tighten the fitting with the torque tube in place. if you tackle it

Yeah, see that's the kind of information I'm looking for. I'm not gonna deal with that right now.
If I need to do a clutch job, removing the crossover to get to the plate and torque tube isn't a big deal, so I'll just leave it as is.

I've got 315s coming in. Just waiting on the shop to finalize if they've got em in stock. The prices these guys have is ridiculous so I'm pumped

Yea, I don't think you'll need to remove the headers to get to the clutch. You would to remove the bellhousing, but you don't need to do that even to get to the clutch with the TT gone and the inspection plate removed. The x-pipe is easy to drop as you mentioned.

Are you running 315's square? If so

I'd love to run 315's on the back, but they don't make wide 17's for the front that I can find.

[Acid666]

Yeah, see that's the kind of information I'm looking for. I'm not gonna deal with that right now.
If I need to do a clutch job, removing the crossover to get to the plate and torque tube isn't a big deal, so I'll just leave it as is.

I've got 315s coming in. Just waiting on the shop to finalize if they've got em in stock. The prices these guys have is ridiculous so I'm pumped

Yea, I don't think you'll need to remove the headers to get to the clutch. You would to remove the bellhousing, but you don't need to do that even to get to the clutch with the TT gone and the inspection plate removed. The x-pipe is easy to drop as you mentioned.

Are you running 315's square? If so

I'd love to run 315's on the back, but they don't make wide 17's for the front that I can find.

yeah 315 square. You can run some 245s all around like the gold chainer wants to do in our local group.
He's SMRT.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Yea, I don't think you'll need to remove the headers to get to the clutch. You would to remove the bellhousing, but you don't need to do that even to get to the clutch with the TT gone and the inspection plate removed. The x-pipe is easy to drop as you mentioned.

Are you running 315's square? If so

I'd love to run 315's on the back, but they don't make wide 17's for the front that I can find.

yeah 315 square. You can run some 245s all around like the gold chainer wants to do in our local group.
He's SMRT.

I need I'm considering drag radials even.

[Apex]

yeah 315 square. You can run some 245s all around like the gold chainer wants to do in our local group.
He's SMRT.

I need I'm considering drag radials even.

DRs are probably your ticket for slaying the mean streets of

[ChrisoftheNorth]

I need I'm considering drag radials even.

DRs are probably your ticket for slaying the mean streets of

Yarp.

Kind of at a crossroads with the car. It's pretty much "done" but I barely drive it these days. Lost most interest in going to the track, and roads are pretty Even if they were in ok shape, they're straight and boring AF.

Just got that bad itis itch I guess.

[Acid666]

DRs are probably your ticket for slaying the mean streets of

Yarp.

Kind of at a crossroads with the car. It's pretty much "done" but I barely drive it these days. Lost most interest in going to the track, and roads are pretty Even if they were in ok shape, they're straight and boring AF.

Just got that bad itis itch I guess.

I can get that. I was all gung ho when I got my bike. Now I can't stand the thought of even riding in it. I've raced more motorcycles in the Z than I have on the bike. Lol.
I do things to the car with the intent that there's always a possibility in the future that I'd want to sell it. Boredom, more power, different platform... You never know where your mental state is gonna be in a few years. At least at this age I recognize that.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Yarp.

Kind of at a crossroads with the car. It's pretty much "done" but I barely drive it these days. Lost most interest in going to the track, and roads are pretty Even if they were in ok shape, they're straight and boring AF.

Just got that bad itis itch I guess.

I can get that. I was all gung ho when I got my bike. Now I can't stand the thought of even riding in it. I've raced more motorcycles in the Z than I have on the bike. Lol.
I do things to the car with the intent that there's always a possibility in the future that I'd want to sell it. Boredom, more power, different platform... You never know where your mental state is gonna be in a few years. At least at this age I recognize that.

I love the Corvette platform. If I sold the , I'd probably just get a C6 or C7. thinks I should get a C7GS. A Sebring Orange one blasted past us on our way to work today and I went full She said I should "just get one already".

I'm just too cheap.

I've been watching this one...the price keeps creeping down. Dude started at 40k, then 39, now $37.5. I bet I could score it for $35-36k.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sal ... Code1=CORV

I dunno. Probably won't do anything and the will just keep sitting. I really hate selling cars, not sure I feel like dealing with it. Easier to just do nothing.

[Acid666]

Took a look at it when I was home at lunch. Looks like the steering shaft will be in the way. Easy bolt to get to, I did that when I did the steering rack removal. That may be part of my issue but I think the fender walls were more of a problem with it getting wedged up against them.

o2 sensor extensions are delayed a day. Assumed they would be in today but it looks like Saturday it is. Kinda sucks, cuz mail doesn't come till about 4pm. Meaning I'll have a whole day of waiting basically. I can try to remove the borlas tho. I wanted to take them off and paint those chrome tips with high temp black.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Might as well get the header while you wait for the extensions. You might find that they work without.

[Acid666]

Might as well get the header while you wait for the extensions. You might find that they work without.

My impatience will likely end up with this being what happens. I'm anxious to hear this fucking thing already.

[D Griff]

I can get that. I was all gung ho when I got my bike. Now I can't stand the thought of even riding in it. I've raced more motorcycles in the Z than I have on the bike. Lol.
I do things to the car with the intent that there's always a possibility in the future that I'd want to sell it. Boredom, more power, different platform... You never know where your mental state is gonna be in a few years. At least at this age I recognize that.

I love the Corvette platform. If I sold the , I'd probably just get a C6 or C7. thinks I should get a C7GS. A Sebring Orange one blasted past us on our way to work today and I went full She said I should "just get one already".

I'm just too cheap.

I've been watching this one...the price keeps creeping down. Dude started at 40k, then 39, now $37.5. I bet I could score it for $35-36k.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sal ... Code1=CORV

I dunno. Probably won't do anything and the will just keep sitting. I really hate selling cars, not sure I feel like dealing with it. Easier to just do nothing.

Damn... that thing is

My itis has been acting up lately as well. I love the C5 for what it is, a hilarious, POS racecar. It's fun as hell to drive in the mountains, on the track, on an on ramp. It really blows in other areas with scraping everywhere, riding like shit, all of the noises. The whining diff has me really

My thoughts are wandering between adding a cheap-ish 2nd car that's more pleasant, or maybe offing it for a Mustang GT as one car to rule them all. .

[Acid666]

Friend came over, we wiggled the driver's side in after unbolting the steering shaft. Removed the oil filter as well. Looked up and noticed what looked like a broken connector to a sensor. It's an oil temp sensor right on top of the filter.
Take sensor off. Go to Autozone, it's closed. Go to Oreilly's. Special order part. $28, and $7 for freight. He finds another sensor that looks like the same thing but it's labeled "Coolant Temp Sensor". Compare the two, prongs are different depths. I say I'll go home and research it.

Come home, I mention the forum and how we're airboaters... And we then decide to airboat it. It's a sensor that doesn't see any load, it just has to stay in place. BAM. Tomorrow will be thermo tape day





Also got the Borla stingers off. Going to scotch pad them bitches and paint the tips with high temp black.

[ChrisoftheNorth]