Obligatory C5 Thread

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ChrisoftheNorth
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BTW, the tub is a fiberglass type material I believe. Just patch with body filler if you're worried about water getting in. Otherwise :whocares:
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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D Griff wrote: Mon Nov 19, 2018 2:13 pm
Acid666 wrote:
That's fucking amazing. I'm glad I mentioned it now. Lol.
On our way home (my buddy was following me) on I-10 I text him and said "Im going to do some wide open pulls to see if I can get this check engine light to replicate and store a code that's more specific to the problem". It flashed at me, but didn't store any codes. So I was dumbfounded. Now I'm glad I wrote them all down at the event and searched in grid when racing. I was like "Door module? Wtf? Ok" wrote it down and figured I'd look at it later since it's not related.
Definitely interesting, mine does this sometimes too, CEL will blink at me, no other signs of missfire or problems. It has new plugs/wires too. I'll have to check my grounds, never thought about that and wasn't sure what the deal was.

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When I get home I'll shoot out the bookmarks I took from when I was googling my codes. I think I found a site that's got a good schematic of all the major ground points on the car. I'll revisit it when I get a chance to see if it's legit. When I searched I was just in bookmark mode and running thru all kinds of stuff that I thought might of been pertinent.
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Acid666 wrote: Mon Nov 19, 2018 3:40 pm
D Griff wrote: Mon Nov 19, 2018 2:13 pm Definitely interesting, mine does this sometimes too, CEL will blink at me, no other signs of missfire or problems. It has new plugs/wires too. I'll have to check my grounds, never thought about that and wasn't sure what the deal was.

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When I get home I'll shoot out the bookmarks I took from when I was googling my codes. I think I found a site that's got a good schematic of all the major ground points on the car. I'll revisit it when I get a chance to see if it's legit. When I searched I was just in bookmark mode and running thru all kinds of stuff that I thought might of been pertinent.
Thanks man!

It's seldom in my car and doesn't seem to have any negative effects other than the blinking lights but it would be nice if it didn't do that.
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Detroit wrote: Mon Nov 19, 2018 2:20 pm
D Griff wrote: Mon Nov 19, 2018 2:17 pm I'm not going to pull a Brad and say I'll keep it though crotchfruit years and everything if they come, but I'm not going to sell it in the prime of my youth for house pinshit either. I hope to have it for years to come.Sooo I think the leak was just the filter being slightly lose... The oil pressure sender thing was impossibru. I'm going to pull the manifold when I get a chance and replace that way. I might just replace all of the sensors in there while I have it off.

Also, I noticed this under the car from the spin out incident. I guess I'll just patch that up with something. I'm not sure what that material actually is.Image

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The only sensor behind the intake manifold is the oil pressure sensor, really. And the intake isn't that bad to get off. I could do it in 20 minutes at this point. Just watch for the little vac line on the rear that needs to be connected for the HVAC when you put it back together. It might also be a good idea to replace the manifold gaskets since your stock ones are probably pretty flat/hard at this point. Cheap and easy to do.
:word:

I was thinking of getting new gaskets, seems like a 5/7 plan. I will also likely order a better oil pressure sender, got an Advance Auto special. I think I'll return that and order OEM with the gasket.

And I am going to patch that hole, NFG about it but don't want any water seepage.
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There is some paint scraped off the bottom from that incident too, unfortunately. Can't see it unless you're under the car though. Oh well, it's a 104k mile :poorvette: that has now been tracked a half dozen times with more to come. In some ways I'm actually better off with it being worthless to prevent future pressure to sell it :lolol: .
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D Griff wrote: Mon Nov 19, 2018 6:46 pm
Acid666 wrote: Mon Nov 19, 2018 3:40 pm


When I get home I'll shoot out the bookmarks I took from when I was googling my codes. I think I found a site that's got a good schematic of all the major ground points on the car. I'll revisit it when I get a chance to see if it's legit. When I searched I was just in bookmark mode and running thru all kinds of stuff that I thought might of been pertinent.
Thanks man!

It's seldom in my car and doesn't seem to have any negative effects other than the blinking lights but it would be nice if it didn't do that.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5 ... forum_id=1

But I'll see if I can link the images for the lazy
Image
Image
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Anyone want 3.42 gears from my C5.5? I'm selling them here ( https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.ht ... 1397247171 ) but if shipping costs aren't crazy I thought someone on DFD may want them for free + shipping costs.
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Tarspin wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:10 pm Anyone want 3.42 gears from my C5.5? I'm selling them here ( https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.ht ... 1397247171 ) but if shipping costs aren't crazy I thought someone on DFD may want them for free + shipping costs.
Oh, wow...I assumed mine were worthless and threw them out during my last move. Woops.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Acid666 wrote: Mon Nov 19, 2018 8:23 pm
D Griff wrote: Mon Nov 19, 2018 6:46 pm

Thanks man!

It's seldom in my car and doesn't seem to have any negative effects other than the blinking lights but it would be nice if it didn't do that.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5 ... forum_id=1

But I'll see if I can link the images for the lazy
Image
Image
:notbad:
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:14 pm
Tarspin wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:10 pm Anyone want 3.42 gears from my C5.5? I'm selling them here ( https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.ht ... 1397247171 ) but if shipping costs aren't crazy I thought someone on DFD may want them for free + shipping costs.
Oh, wow...I assumed mine were worthless and threw them out during my last move. Woops.
I think maybe you're right. Dont know. What do new ones cost? I had a guy agree to buy them but just backed out today because his auto C5 has 3.15s and he assumed they were 2.73s. The jump to 3.42s isn't worth the hassle but for anyone who needs a scrooge set to fix a whiny diff, this might just be the ticket.

Dude this week i sold a 18 yr old front doors for $100, and a 7 yr old crib worth 200 new for $100 (pending pickup today). I'm on a role, ditching old shit for profit lol
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The lady that bought the two front doors (no frame) drove in a Rav4 from Ottawa, nearly 4 hrs away to get them. Somehow with the front and rear seats down we jammed the nasty old doors into her car, blocking the shifter, pressed tight between the driver seat backrest and the b-pillar on the passenger side. No way they come out without scratching all kinds of shit. Apparently she doesnt care :iono:
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Tarspin wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:19 pm
Detroit wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:14 pm Oh, wow...I assumed mine were worthless and threw them out during my last move. Woops.
I think maybe you're right. Dont know. What do new ones cost? I had a guy agree to buy them but just backed out today because his auto C5 has 3.15s and he assumed they were 2.73s. The jump to 3.42s isn't worth the hassle but for anyone who needs a scrooge set to fix a whiny diff, this might just be the ticket.

Dude this week i sold a 18 yr old front doors for $100, and a 7 yr old crib worth 200 new for $100 (pending pickup today). I'm on a role, ditching old shit for profit lol
:notbad:

3.42's are a popular upgrade for auto cars because it gives a nice pep. New gears (parts) are like $400 or something, so I guess a deal could be found. The cost of labor is usually prohibitive :doe:
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Tarspin wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:22 pm The lady that bought the two front doors (no frame) drove in a Rav4 from Ottawa, nearly 4 hrs away to get them. Somehow with the front and rear seats down we jammed the nasty old doors into her car, blocking the shifter, pressed tight between the driver seat backrest and the b-pillar on the passenger side. No way they come out without scratching all kinds of shit. Apparently she doesnt care :iono:
:impressive:
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:25 pm
Tarspin wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:19 pm

I think maybe you're right. Dont know. What do new ones cost? I had a guy agree to buy them but just backed out today because his auto C5 has 3.15s and he assumed they were 2.73s. The jump to 3.42s isn't worth the hassle but for anyone who needs a scrooge set to fix a whiny diff, this might just be the ticket.

Dude this week i sold a 18 yr old front doors for $100, and a 7 yr old crib worth 200 new for $100 (pending pickup today). I'm on a role, ditching old shit for profit lol
:notbad:

3.42's are a popular upgrade for auto cars because it gives a nice pep. New gears (parts) are like $400 or something, so I guess a deal could be found. The cost of labor is usually prohibitive :doe:
I'm an optimist, but even if some local bro offers $100 for them and doesnt have to pay exchange rates, taxes, shipping costs then the cost of the parts are like 1/7 of new here. If they don't move i chuck them in the spring, but they store easily enough for now.
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Tarspin wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:31 pm
Detroit wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:25 pm
:notbad:

3.42's are a popular upgrade for auto cars because it gives a nice pep. New gears (parts) are like $400 or something, so I guess a deal could be found. The cost of labor is usually prohibitive :doe:
I'm an optimist, but even if some local bro offers $100 for them and doesnt have to pay exchange rates, taxes, shipping costs then the cost of the parts are like 1/7 of new here. If they don't move i chuck them in the spring, but they store easily enough for now.
In4results
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:32 pm
Tarspin wrote: Tue Nov 20, 2018 1:31 pm

I'm an optimist, but even if some local bro offers $100 for them and doesnt have to pay exchange rates, taxes, shipping costs then the cost of the parts are like 1/7 of new here. If they don't move i chuck them in the spring, but they store easily enough for now.
In4results
The fate of the gears will be announced by spring at the latest lol
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Bogging issue is solved.
Decided to take it from the top and pull all the plugs and wires and start from there...
3 in and bam, there it is. And I'm careful about how I yank these out when I do because I don't want to rip them.

Image

I just shortened it and opened the metal back up and crimped the wire back in. Back in the day on my Blazer I bought the MSD wire kit where you have to cut them to length and make all your own connections, so I knew I could just recrimp it and it should be fine. Ran fine, no bogging, idles smoother. Fucking headache gone for the meantime.
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Acid666 wrote: Wed Nov 28, 2018 10:35 pm Bogging issue is solved.
Decided to take it from the top and pull all the plugs and wires and start from there...
3 in and bam, there it is. And I'm careful about how I yank these out when I do because I don't want to rip them.

Image

I just shortened it and opened the metal back up and crimped the wire back in. Back in the day on my Blazer I bought the MSD wire kit where you have to cut them to length and make all your own connections, so I knew I could just recrimp it and it should be fine. Ran fine, no bogging, idles smoother. Fucking headache gone for the meantime.
:fuckyeah:

That's a relief.
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Acid666 wrote: Wed Nov 28, 2018 10:35 pm Bogging issue is solved.
Decided to take it from the top and pull all the plugs and wires and start from there...
3 in and bam, there it is. And I'm careful about how I yank these out when I do because I don't want to rip them.

Image

I just shortened it and opened the metal back up and crimped the wire back in. Back in the day on my Blazer I bought the MSD wire kit where you have to cut them to length and make all your own connections, so I knew I could just recrimp it and it should be fine. Ran fine, no bogging, idles smoother. Fucking headache gone for the meantime.
Holy hell! How did that happen? Would certainly be the cause of some issues.

Wires are super hard to remove :doe:
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Thu Nov 29, 2018 9:20 am
Holy hell! How did that happen? Would certainly be the cause of some issues.

Wires are super hard to remove :doe:
I have no idea. When I remove these things I'm always pulling as careful as I can. Usually I'll get as close to the base as possible and pull from there so I'm not just blindly yanking on a wire. I'll sometimes get a pair of hose pullers to get to the end.
The tear couldn't of come from heat, I had to be from pulling. I just can't see myself causing this with how weary I am about them breaking. Similarly to when I removed the stock wires and I think I tore up maybe 3 or 4 of the 8 total from them being old oem brittle rubber
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Acid666 wrote: Thu Nov 29, 2018 10:53 am
Detroit wrote: Thu Nov 29, 2018 9:20 am
Holy hell! How did that happen? Would certainly be the cause of some issues.

Wires are super hard to remove :doe:
I have no idea. When I remove these things I'm always pulling as careful as I can. Usually I'll get as close to the base as possible and pull from there so I'm not just blindly yanking on a wire. I'll sometimes get a pair of hose pullers to get to the end.
The tear couldn't of come from heat, I had to be from pulling. I just can't see myself causing this with how weary I am about them breaking. Similarly to when I removed the stock wires and I think I tore up maybe 3 or 4 of the 8 total from them being old oem brittle rubber
Some wires will almost weld themselves to the end of the spark plugs. I always use dielectric grease on the ends of the plugs to aide in removal. It helps somewhat.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Mine actually came off easily-ish with the weird rubber ended pliers designed for that. I actually found that whole job to be not as bad as advertised other than the damn #7 plug.

I'm going to pull my intake manifold tomorrow, replace the oil pressure sensor, check my CEL and try to fix whatever that is, replace rear rotors, bondo my rear tub thing, etc. I miss the :poorvette: and want to get it up to snuff.

I'm :notsure: on what to do with the tire situation. My front PSS are absolute toast with the right unit leaking to the point of needing a fill any morning I want to drive the car. I could just get some cheapo all seasons, or could go ahead with the new :ramz: and track oriented tars, just :notsure: on he tars being stored (on the car) outside all winter, it can get into the teens/twenties here occasionally.
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Man I want the power of long tubes but idk if they'll be too loud for me.
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CaleDeRoo wrote: Fri Nov 30, 2018 5:38 pm Man I want the power of long tubes but idk if they'll be too loud for me.
What exhaust do you have? I drove Detroit's car back when it had long toobz but the stock Z06 exhaust (it's a targa though) and it wasn't very loud, more than stock, less than Borlas, which aren't that loud either really.
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D Griff wrote:Mine actually came off easily-ish with the weird rubber ended pliers designed for that. I actually found that whole job to be not as bad as advertised other than the damn #7 plug.

I'm going to pull my intake manifold tomorrow, replace the oil pressure sensor, check my CEL and try to fix whatever that is, replace rear rotors, bondo my rear tub thing, etc. I miss the :poorvette: and want to get it up to snuff.

I'm :notsure: on what to do with the tire situation. My front PSS are absolute toast with the right unit leaking to the point of needing a fill any morning I want to drive the car. I could just get some cheapo all seasons, or could go ahead with the new :ramz: and track oriented tars, just :notsure: on he tars being stored (on the car) outside all winter, it can get into the teens/twenties here occasionally.
If you don't move the car at all when it's that cold then it won't hurt the tracky tarz to get cold.
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