I think those are the critical things. The AIR tubes are pretty easy to figure out, other than the mount on the back of the head. It's on the back of the driver's side head IIRC, pretty near the intake. Remove the intake and unbolt...it's a slotted mount, so the bolt doesn't even need to come out all the way.
A lot of guys just cut the tubing, but I wanted to keep mine in tact, just in case. Getting rid of it really makes reaching things easier.
The Hinson poly mounts are pretty good. There's a bit more vibration from them being poly, but nothing crazy. It's probably worth considering the trans/diff mount too. The entire drivetrain is supported by three mounts...two engine and one trans/diff.
Is it Bolt #2 on here?
Because a friend linked me some steps to not have to remove the intake (which really isn't a big deal to me since I've done it so many times) https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/ ... rchString=
You CAN get the bolt out from the back with out taking the intake off.
1st.- Take off bolts from the exhaust manifolds and all the rubber hoses attached to the secondary air system.
2nd.- Go to the hardware store and get a “close quarters one handed hack saw” make sure the blade is long enough around 5-8 inches. I know hack saw sounds crazy but it looks clean and works fine for this project.
3rd.- Where the manifold meets the drivers side head is where the tab that holds the air pipe is you can see it fine if you get your head close to the firewall with a light. Where the metal tab is that holds the metal air piping which is also bolted to the back of block you’ll want to saw where the tab meets the pipe starting on the passenger side of tab finishing at the driver side of tab, you will be at it for about 5 min or so it worked GREAT for me and I can assure it will do the same for you just be careful there are some wires back there just be cautious and you won’t even come close to them.
4th.- pull the remainder of piping out from passenger side cautiously. Once you’re done and the secondary air line is out you can loosen the 13mm bolt slightly and pull out the tab that WAS holding the air pipe with whatever tool you have that can fit back there, I just left the tab there’s only about 1/2” or less showing back there and no one will ever see it plus it’s not hurting anything.
Yep, it’s #2.
I remember reading that write up, and I deemed it impossible. I suppose MAYBE it could be done, but it’s probably faster to just pull the intake, tbh. It’s not as big of a job as everyone makes it out to be.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm
My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 05, 2018 4:30 pm
Word up, this has got to be the fastest shipping on any item I think I've ever ordered.
I ordered it around 10am Monday, it came in today at about 10am Wednesday.
Um, it's Thursday, brah.
My bad. I actually ordered them Tuesday morning. Had to look at my email
I went ahead and ordered some header bolts, not the studs. Ideally I'd go that route but at $107 a set, I'm gonna this one for a bit. Same on the motor mount. $197 for 2 of the ones you described.... Lil much for me right now. I will likely do them this year tho. I do think they're the cause of my slight vibration at idle.
I'm thinking in terms of needing to drop about a couple benjis on a tune to remove the cel for the AIR pump removal and the off road pipe.
I did order a set of spark plug sleeves too. Should all be here by the weekend, so I may start to shoot the bolts with some juice now to let it start to penetrate the threads.
Also, reconsider mounts. If you're going to do mounts, you're redoing the entire header install process. There's no way to get to them with the headers in place. I'd wait to do the header install until you can buy mounts if you're going to do them. Trust me, you'll kick yourself if you don't. The header job isn't fun, especially the passenger side.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm
My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
Also, reconsider mounts. If you're going to do mounts, you're redoing the entire header install process. There's no way to get to them with the headers in place. I'd wait to do the header install until you can buy mounts if you're going to do them. Trust me, you'll kick yourself if you don't. The header job isn't fun, especially the passenger side.
I'm totally with you man. I agree 100%. Just being cheap for now. I took a look at the engine bay last night and can totally see how it's impossible to get that motor mount out without screwing with the headers.
I watched a 20 minute header install video last night and the passenger side really didn't look too horrible. The guy removed the battery and that "L" shaped plastic right next to it, and loosened the coolant tank and moved it to the side. Didn't even touch the starter.
I've got a good grasp on the whole thing now after looking at my engine bay and watching that video. Not saying it's easy, but I can foresee the problems ahead of time.
Maybe I'll hold out a little bit till I can do the mounts. I'm not planning on installing these right away anyways. I'm actually gonna get a hard quote to get the headers ceramic coated from a shop down the road. I got a ranged price a while back but he said he'd need to see how big they were to give me a solid price.
Yep, I’d hold off on installing until you can do the mounts.
All headers are different, I can say for sure that it’s impossible to install the passenger side without removing the starter. I’ve tried a few times with these XS Power headers. And that’s the bitch. Reinstalling the starter and all it’s wires is a major PITA. You REALLY want to do everything at once, it’s worth the wait.
And when you get it tuned, spring for a dunk tune. Should be $3-400 or so, but get quite a bit of power.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm
My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
Detroit wrote: ↑Fri Apr 06, 2018 9:56 am
Yep, I’d hold off on installing until you can do the mounts.
All headers are different, I can say for sure that it’s impossible to install the passenger side without removing the starter. I’ve tried a few times with these XS Power headers. And that’s the bitch. Reinstalling the starter and all it’s wires is a major PITA. You REALLY want to do everything at once, it’s worth the wait.
And when you get it tuned, spring for a dunk tune. Should be $3-400 or so, but get quite a bit of power.
+50 brubs.
4zilch wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am
I'm a fucking failure.
Got a quote from the ceramic coating shop today when I brought the headers in to get looked at. $280 for the pair. Not too bad. I may hold out and do that too.
Might get the crossover done too since it'll trap heat. Asked if they'd do the insides and said he's done outsides, insides, insides AND outsides... Temp's been the same with a temp gun. So I'll likely just do the outside.
Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 06, 2018 1:05 pm
Got a quote from the ceramic coating shop today when I brought the headers in to get looked at. $280 for the pair. Not too bad. I may hold out and do that too.
Might get the crossover done too since it'll trap heat. Asked if they'd do the insides and said he's done outsides, insides, insides AND outsides... Temp's been the same with a temp gun. So I'll likely just do the outside.
I thought hard about doing ceramic coating on my headers. Ended up not being worth it to me. $280 is
Definitely wait until you can do everything the right way.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm
My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
Detroit wrote: ↑Fri Apr 06, 2018 9:56 am
Yep, I’d hold off on installing until you can do the mounts.
All headers are different, I can say for sure that it’s impossible to install the passenger side without removing the starter. I’ve tried a few times with these XS Power headers. And that’s the bitch. Reinstalling the starter and all it’s wires is a major PITA. You REALLY want to do everything at once, it’s worth the wait.
And when you get it tuned, spring for a dunk tune. Should be $3-400 or so, but get quite a bit of power.
+50 brubs.
LT+dyno tune is probably worth 25-35 WHP. Intake can squeak out a bit more too. My car dyno'd at 350 whp with just intake and LTs. LS6 would probably push 400 WHP with LT's, intake, and t00n.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm
My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
LT+dyno tune is probably worth 25-35 WHP. Intake can squeak out a bit more too. My car dyno'd at 350 whp with just intake and LTs. LS6 would probably push 400 WHP with LT's, intake, and t00n.
I was making a joke, but glad you delivered with some real numbers. Good to know, I thought it was 50 Whp, too bad Max isn't in here, he knows all and would have called me out on it.
Also, those Vette boy floor mats
4zilch wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am
I'm a fucking failure.
LT+dyno tune is probably worth 25-35 WHP. Intake can squeak out a bit more too. My car dyno'd at 350 whp with just intake and LTs. LS6 would probably push 400 WHP with LT's, intake, and t00n.
General consensus is about 400 to the wheels is reasonable for the LS6 with H/C/I. Depends on the dyno since they vary with or without loads on the rollers.
I'm not as interested in the number as I am with the before and after numbers and the smoothness of the torque curve.
I may consider a cam down the road to boost up the mid range a little for autocrossing. But I'll save that for a later idea. These are 1-3/4" headers and ideally you'd want 1-7/8"s if you're going with a cam.
To me, pulling heat is a big deal. I have to constantly run my ac at autocross events between runs because the temps start to get to 230° and even though it's designed like that it just doesn't sit right with me mentally. I've got a 160° thermostat that gave me but it still climbs when it's parked. On the road it gets a lot colder than it previously did.
Detroit wrote: ↑Fri Apr 06, 2018 1:18 pm
LT+dyno tune is probably worth 25-35 WHP. Intake can squeak out a bit more too. My car dyno'd at 350 whp with just intake and LTs. LS6 would probably push 400 WHP with LT's, intake, and t00n.
I was making a joke, but glad you delivered with some real numbers. Good to know, I thought it was 50 Whp, too bad Max isn't in here, he knows all and would have called me out on it.
Also, those Vette boy floor mats
Another poon slaying 50 whp right there.
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: ↑Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm
Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: ↑Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm
Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
Detroit wrote: ↑Fri Apr 06, 2018 1:18 pm
LT+dyno tune is probably worth 25-35 WHP. Intake can squeak out a bit more too. My car dyno'd at 350 whp with just intake and LTs. LS6 would probably push 400 WHP with LT's, intake, and t00n.
General consensus is about 400 to the wheels is reasonable for the LS6 with H/C/I. Depends on the dyno since they vary with or without loads on the rollers.
I'm not as interested in the number as I am with the before and after numbers and the smoothness of the torque curve.
I may consider a cam down the road to boost up the mid range a little for autocrossing. But I'll save that for a later idea. These are 1-3/4" headers and ideally you'd want 1-7/8"s if you're going with a cam.
To me, pulling heat is a big deal. I have to constantly run my ac at autocross events between runs because the temps start to get to 230° and even though it's designed like that it just doesn't sit right with me mentally. I've got a 160° thermostat that gave me but it still climbs when it's parked. On the road it gets a lot colder than it previously did.
Getting the fan to come on at 190° makes a huge difference, I believe they can tune that in.
4zilch wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am
I'm a fucking failure.
I was making a joke, but glad you delivered with some real numbers. Good to know, I thought it was 50 Whp, too bad Max isn't in here, he knows all and would have called me out on it.
Also, those Vette boy floor mats
Another poon slaying 50 whp right there.
LOL. Not sure my 50 hp will slaying any melonmobile poon with those 4.10s in it.
Maybe if I swap my Konis for some Monroes, I could slay some fat azz
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm
My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
When I first saw the eBay listing, I thought it was a C7 by the pics alone. I was bamboozled.
Same. Dude put serious effort into this thing.
Looks like it could be a hack job underneath, doe.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm
My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.