so much fuckin yet I also recognize I have no place on a full fairing near race bike.
i wants it. I can affords it. Im unsure of its.
2014. needs a bit of tlc. 9300 miles. waiting on service history. $7500 at
From a non motorcycle guy the buy looks cooler than fuck, its a red DUCATI bro. I want it and I've never ridden a motorcycle. You seem to have a good life doe, why do you want to kill yourself all of a sudden.
Where is all this money coming from Ray Ray? You just bought a pickup, you've got a Gorf, you're looking for waxer airboat houses. Bruh. You're consuming.
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: ↑Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm
Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: ↑Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm
Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
so much fuckin yet I also recognize I have no place on a full fairing near race bike.
i wants it. I can affords it. Im unsure of its.
2014. needs a bit of tlc. 9300 miles. waiting on service history. $7500 at
From a non motorcycle guy the buy looks cooler than fuck, its a red DUCATI bro. I want it and I've never ridden a motorcycle. You seem to have a good life doe, why do you want to kill yourself all of a sudden.
Where is all this money coming from Ray Ray? You just bought a pickup, you've got a Gorf, you're looking for waxer airboat houses. Bruh. You're consuming.
well im no closet millionaire like some on here. I dont believe that is instant death on wheels. was $4100 all in. The wife is doing well in her first year in bizness for herself as well.
only debt we have is my and the
looking at houses to stay in for a long time and we are on the fence if our current place can provide that. I NEED a larger shop. I am about to have the race car and a rabbit back.
I'd agree with all my shit, I dont need a $7k ducati, but fuck its cool. I could also offload the race car and go buy any other toy I want.
0 – 60 mph in 3.0 seconds; 60 – 80 mph in 1.9 seconds
140 miles of city range and 88 miles of combined city/highway range, when going 70 mph on the freeway (using the MIC Combined test)
Recharge time of 0-80% in 40 minutes, and 0-100% in 60 minutes when using the onboard DC fast charger
Looking deeper into Harley-Davidson’s press release we see that 200 dealerships will carry the Livewire in the USA. This number is roughly a third of the Bar & Shield’s domestic dealer network, and while we can debate whether that is a good thing or not, realize that each one of those dealerships will have at least one DC fast charger available to the public.
This means that Harley-Davidson is about to put 200 DC fast chargers into the wild (adding to the already impressive number of stations we are seeing pop-up), and it means that these 200 Harley-Davidson dealerships will become destination stops for electric vehicle owners, include Livewire riders.
That Price Though
The hardest selling point for the Harley-Davidson Livewire remains its price, but I am not convinced that Harley-Davidson got this as terribly wrong as most of the internet seems to think.
More importantly, take the nearest reference we have to the Harley-Davidson Livewire, the Zero SR/F. Even with its add-on extra 6 kW charger, which brings the price to a tad over $23,300, the SR/F still takes about 33% longer to charge than the Livewire (which will charge at 25 kW).
Helping close the rest of that $6,500 delta are a few notable things as well. One, Harley-Davidson has fitted better components to the Livewire, most notably the balance free shock from Showa, and a full Brembo braking setup.
As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...
Just splurged on some Renthal RC high bend bars, pillowtops, and a stand.I really wanted to say fuck it and buy new levers and redo the whole cockpit but maybe next time. I Had 30 bucks off at revzilla. Totally forgot about it. I thought it would expire like Kohls shit? Guess not!
NeonJonny wrote: ↑Sat Mar 23, 2019 9:52 am
Just splurged on some Renthal RC high bend bars, pillowtops, and a stand.I really wanted to say fuck it and buy new levers and redo the whole cockpit but maybe next time. I Had 30 bucks off at revzilla. Totally forgot about it. I thought it would expire like Kohls shit? Guess not!
I’ve got pro taper CR-mid (I think) on my 650. I whould’ve gone with high bars, but I didn’t want to buy longer throttle and clutch cables.
I need to put ProGrip superbike grips on - I destroyed a set of softer stuff in 1 track day.
As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...
NeonJonny wrote: ↑Sat Mar 23, 2019 9:52 am
Just splurged on some Renthal RC high bend bars, pillowtops, and a stand.I really wanted to say fuck it and buy new levers and redo the whole cockpit but maybe next time. I Had 30 bucks off at revzilla. Totally forgot about it. I thought it would expire like Kohls shit? Guess not!
I’ve got pro taper CR-mid (I think) on my 650. I whould’ve gone with high bars, but I didn’t want to buy longer throttle and clutch cables.
I need to put ProGrip superbike grips on - I destroyed a set of softer stuff in 1 track day.
Well im 6’1’’ and i’m baiting meat gazers bent over like that . Im running 2” risers with windhams and it still isnt enough. Hope i dont need new cables! Some didnt have to.
What levers are you running? I don’t necessarily need break away/foldable levers because i run guards. I’m sure i could get some great inexpensive ones I would be happy with. Im just not sure what to get?? Ive read Works Connection are like the best. Any thoughts?
I’d like to run something with a ball bearing and smoother action. The gearing is tall so if I’m up in the hills doing heavy clutch work it gets old.
I’ve got pro taper CR-mid (I think) on my 650. I whould’ve gone with high bars, but I didn’t want to buy longer throttle and clutch cables.
I need to put ProGrip superbike grips on - I destroyed a set of softer stuff in 1 track day.
Well im 6’1’’ and i’m baiting meat gazers bent over like that . Im running 2” risers with windhams and it still isnt enough. Hope i dont need new cables! Some didnt have to.
What levers are you running? I don’t necessarily need break away/foldable levers because i run guards. I’m sure i could get some great inexpensive ones I would be happy with. Im just not sure what to get?? Ive read Works Connection are like the best. Any thoughts?
I’d like to run something with a ball bearing and smoother action. The gearing is tall so if I’m up in the hills doing heavy clutch work it gets old.
Stock levers that have been shortened. I have guards too. I’ll snag a couple pics if you’re curious
As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...
Perhaps more geek-worthy is that Aprilia has moved the neutral position in the gearbox to below 1st gear. The Italian brand calls this Aprilia No Neutral (ANN), and they say that it speeds up shifting between the first and second gears, and avoids the possibility of a false neutral.
As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...
Perhaps more geek-worthy is that Aprilia has moved the neutral position in the gearbox to below 1st gear. The Italian brand calls this Aprilia No Neutral (ANN), and they say that it speeds up shifting between the first and second gears, and avoids the possibility of a false neutral.
As a non moto bro most of my life i always thought the whole neutral between 1 and 2 thing was stupid. Maybe it was just a design relic from back when gearboxes were harder to make, but still, kinda dumb from the perspective of a clean sheet of paper design.
As a non moto bro most of my life i always thought the whole neutral between 1 and 2 thing was stupid. Maybe it was just a design relic from back when gearboxes were harder to make, but still, kinda dumb from the perspective of a clean sheet of paper design.
Yeah - I don't know where it came from, as you suggested it seems to be a design relic. FMVSS mandates the shifter on the left, but I don't be believe mandates the shift sequence. Somewhere along the way, all the manufacturers decided this was the best way to do it. Back in the day you had everything from foot clutch and hand/tank shifters, right side shifters and gp pattern shifters (1up and 3 down). One commonality was that neutral existed between 1st and 2nd.
It makes some logical sense to have it between 1 and 2 for the street though - There's rarely an instance where you want to be in neutral (unless stopped), so having to intentionally place it in neutral makes sense to me rather than just bottoming the shifter. It makes more sense to "find neutral" than to "find first"
As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...
NeonJonny wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2019 4:39 pm
Well im 6’1’’ and i’m baiting meat gazers bent over like that . Im running 2” risers with windhams and it still isnt enough. Hope i dont need new cables! Some didnt have to.
What levers are you running? I don’t necessarily need break away/foldable levers because i run guards. I’m sure i could get some great inexpensive ones I would be happy with. Im just not sure what to get?? Ive read Works Connection are like the best. Any thoughts?
I’d like to run something with a ball bearing and smoother action. The gearing is tall so if I’m up in the hills doing heavy clutch work it gets old.
Stock levers that have been shortened. I have guards too. I’ll snag a couple pics if you’re curious
Yeah I'd like to see your COCKpit setup. What guards are you running? I run the cheapo ones I got off amazon. The fitment just plain sucks, but I figured if they save my clutch lever ONCE they've paid for themselves. I've dropped the bike HARD on a steep hill onto a boulder and they held up. Hard to complain, really. I run a KTM mirror. I'll most likely hold onto this bike forever. Once I get married I plan on getting a 701.
As a non moto bro most of my life i always thought the whole neutral between 1 and 2 thing was stupid. Maybe it was just a design relic from back when gearboxes were harder to make, but still, kinda dumb from the perspective of a clean sheet of paper design.
It makes some logical sense to have it between 1 and 2 for the street though - There's rarely an instance where you want to be in neutral (unless stopped), so having to intentionally place it in neutral makes sense to me rather than just bottoming the shifter. It makes more sense to "find neutral" than to "find first"
That logic is sound. Probably more so on dirt where it can be vv bad if you you want power at low speeds and accidently bang down to neutral in this fictional world where neutral is at the bottom.
4zilch wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2019 6:42 pm
Stock levers that have been shortened. I have guards too. I’ll snag a couple pics if you’re curious
Yeah I'd like to see your COCKpit setup. What guards are you running? I run the cheapo ones I got off amazon. The fitment just plain sucks, but I figured if they save my clutch lever ONCE they've paid for themselves. I've dropped the bike HARD on a steep hill onto a boulder and they held up. Hard to complain, really. I run a KTM mirror. I'll most likely hold onto this bike forever. Once I get married I plan on getting a 701.
I run Acerbis guards. These things are old as dirt, but are still holding up really well.
Only complaint is that I wish the bars were a half-inch wider on both sides.
I do have a shitty Chinese clamp on mirror that isn’t on the bike right now.
701 is
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As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...
Looks like a fun bike! Snipped levers might bug me. Ill keep looking until i find something that i like. Definitely want a shorty lever. I googled work connection levers... its like 180 for a clutch lever alone. That’s like putting volks on a nissan 240. Whip cream on top of shit.
NeonJonny wrote: ↑Tue Mar 26, 2019 1:34 pm
Looks like a fun bike! Snipped levers might bug me. Ill keep looking until i find something that i like. Definitely want a shorty lever. I googled work connection levers... its like 180 for a clutch lever alone. That’s like putting volks on a nissan 240. Whip cream on top of shit.
Cut 'em with a hacksaw and file to smooth out the ends. I can't bring myself to spend that kinda coin on levers for any of my bikes.
As the only published author in a well-known motorcycle publication in the room...