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[ChrisoftheNorth]

My dad did vinyl tile in his kitchen, it's pretty awesome because it's super durable for cleaning, but doesn't get as cold as ceramic to walk on.

[Desertbreh]

My dad did vinyl tile in his kitchen, it's pretty awesome because it's super durable for cleaning, but doesn't get as cold as ceramic to walk on.

Cold tile is desirable in these parts.

[CorvetteWaxer]

My dad did vinyl tile in his kitchen, it's pretty awesome because it's super durable for cleaning, but doesn't get as cold as ceramic to walk on.

Cold tile is desirable in these parts.

That's exactly what I said to my wife. She was reminding me that we discussed radiant heating under tile in the past.... I told her that was a yes for Reno or Tahoe or anyplace that gets really cold, but I would not need it in Vegas.

[Desertbreh]

Cold tile is desirable in these parts.

That's exactly what I said to my wife. She was reminding me that we discussed radiant heating under tile in the past.... I told her that was a yes for Reno or Tahoe or anyplace that gets really cold, but I would not need it in Vegas.

Yeah that's not going to be a real value add to your residence in LV.

[CorvetteWaxer]

That's exactly what I said to my wife. She was reminding me that we discussed radiant heating under tile in the past.... I told her that was a yes for Reno or Tahoe or anyplace that gets really cold, but I would not need it in Vegas.

Yeah that's not going to be a real value add to your residence in LV.

Still waiting to hear from the electrician. Kinda wondering if the numbers are so big that's what is taking him so long to add it up.

Seriously though, he needs to hurry so we can sign (again) and they can submit for the permits and start building.

[Desertbreh]

Yeah that's not going to be a real value add to your residence in LV.

Still waiting to hear from the electrician. Kinda wondering if the numbers are so big that's what is taking him so long to add it up.

Seriously though, he needs to hurry so we can sign (again) and they can submit for the permits and start building.

He's probably working the abacus pretty hard. ZFG though, this is what it's going to take to built a combat ready home office for a tech manager. I think your accountant can treat a lot of this stuff pretty favorably.

[wap]

Whelp, 2 more days of scraping and power washing over the weekend, , but I finally started to patch some of the cracks.


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[wap]

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[wap]

Patching begins on the smaller cracks.
I find it strangely kind of gratifying.


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[ChrisoftheNorth]

Patching begins on the smaller cracks.
I find it strangely kind of gratifying.


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How do you like the concrete patch you got? Discovered a few insignificant cracks like this in our basement refresh that I want to patch before painting

[wap]

Patching begins on the smaller cracks.
I find it strangely kind of gratifying.


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How do you like the concrete patch you got? Discovered a few insignificant cracks like this in our basement refresh that I want to patch before painting

For smaller, shallower cracks, (say, < .5" wide and/or deep) I like the patching compound a lot. It's gritty so it doesn't look weirdly smooth when it dries so it blends in pretty well with the surrounding stone. I just apply it with my fingers and work it to a shape and finish that I think looks good. It dries in a couple hours so you can apply another layer, if necessary, the same day, which I find to be a good time saver. It's a bit messy technique but it doesn't seem to irritate my skin like some concrete mixes can do. It also cleans up with soap and water, which is nice. It dries a bit flexible and maintains it's flexibility forever, or at least for 2 years since some of the patching I did to the work from 2 years ago showed some intact flexibility, which is and implies that it won't crack again, and I haven't seen any cracks show up yet in my previous repairs. It's also paintable without needing to be primed first. It's a great product.

Oh, it also comes premixed so you just open the tub and apply, with either a putty knife, small trowel, or, as I said, your fingers.

5/7 product, IMO. Should work great for your need, and it's <$10.

[wap]

Dis Juan:


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[wap]

I haven't tried the other product I bought yet, the one for the big gaps that i'll use that backer rod stuff with. That needs to be mixed with water first. I'll report back on my impressions on that after I use it. I want to fill all the smaller gaps first.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Dis Juan:


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Going to pick this up from Ace this afternoon.

[wap]

Dis Juan:


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Going to pick this up from Ace this afternoon.

Let me know how it goes and if you have any questions. I've gone through 3.5 tubs now over the last couple years so I feel I'm pretty familiar with the product.

My local Ace was out of it a couple weeks ago so hopefully yours will have it in stock. I bought mine from Do It Best, which is a local chain that took over a bunch of True Value stores a few years ago. if you have those in MeatChicken

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Going to pick this up from Ace this afternoon.

Let me know how it goes and if you have any questions. I've gone through 3.5 tubs now over the last couple years so I feel I'm pretty familiar with the product.

My local Ace was out of it a couple weeks ago so hopefully yours will have it in stock. I bought mine from Do It Best, which is a local chain that took over a bunch of True Value stores a few years ago. if you have those in MeatChicken

We have some Do It Best in more rural areas for some reason...around me it's just Ace and the big box stores. I usually go to Ace first because they're 5 minutes from me, but if I strike out there, I just go to Home Depot.

[wap]

Let me know how it goes and if you have any questions. I've gone through 3.5 tubs now over the last couple years so I feel I'm pretty familiar with the product.

My local Ace was out of it a couple weeks ago so hopefully yours will have it in stock. I bought mine from Do It Best, which is a local chain that took over a bunch of True Value stores a few years ago. if you have those in MeatChicken

We have some Do It Best in more rural areas for some reason...around me it's just Ace and the big box stores. I usually go to Ace first because they're 5 minutes from me, but if I strike out there, I just go to Home Depot.

I do the same. We had a Do It Best that used to be a True Value one mile from my that was also on my way home from work that was extremely convenient but the owner dude retired a couple years ago and closed down his shop. It's still sitting empty to this day.
Next closest is an Ace about 10-15 minutes away, then a HD about 20 minutes away. After that, it's Menards about 30 minutes away.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

We have some Do It Best in more rural areas for some reason...around me it's just Ace and the big box stores. I usually go to Ace first because they're 5 minutes from me, but if I strike out there, I just go to Home Depot.

I do the same. We had a Do It Best that used to be a True Value one mile from my that was also on my way home from work that was extremely convenient but the owner dude retired a couple years ago and closed down his shop. It's still sitting empty to this day.
Next closest is an Ace about 10-15 minutes away, then a HD about 20 minutes away. After that, it's Menards about 30 minutes away.

I used to be a huge Menard's fan, but lately it seems like their pricing has gone nuts. Add to that the "rebate" that we never get, it's kind of a rip off for some reason now.

Example:
The laundry/utility tub in our basement is we decided to upgrade and HD has this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay ... /203609451

For $100, it's and they carry it in the store. Menards had something somewhat close for $150, but it was the same quality and I liked the HD one better, so we picked that up yesterday.

[wap]

I do the same. We had a Do It Best that used to be a True Value one mile from my that was also on my way home from work that was extremely convenient but the owner dude retired a couple years ago and closed down his shop. It's still sitting empty to this day.
Next closest is an Ace about 10-15 minutes away, then a HD about 20 minutes away. After that, it's Menards about 30 minutes away.

I used to be a huge Menard's fan, but lately it seems like their pricing has gone nuts. Add to that the "rebate" that we never get, it's kind of a rip off for some reason now.

Example:
The laundry/utility tub in our basement is we decided to upgrade and HD has this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay ... /203609451

For $100, it's and they carry it in the store. Menards had something somewhat close for $150, but it was the same quality and I liked the HD one better, so we picked that up yesterday.

Yea that was a no-brainer decision there. Menards sometimes has decent prices during one of their 11% sales, but since HD is closer to me I usually just go there and I don't really feel like I'm overpaying for anything.

[CorvetteWaxer]

Picked our flooring and electrical options this last weekend.

• Flooring was going to be default and we would do it ourselves later, but the flooring company actually had really good options.
• On the entire down stairs we went with 8" x 48" tiles that look like wood planks in a light brown/grayish color with a close match on the grout. Will have 3/16" grout lines.
• Upstairs we went with a much lighter almost white 8" x 36" tile with matching grout for the bathrooms.
• Picked a grayish upgraded carpet and pad everywhere else upstairs.
• The cabinets are a slate gray and the quartz countertops are white with a white glittery speckle in them.

Electrical was a chore to iron out, but we did it.

• Added a bunch of outlets and 1&1 boxes (Coax+Ethernet) up on walls for wall mount TVs.
• Opted for the a 48" SMC for all the wiring.
• Added a second 20A circuit in my office
• Pre-wired all rooms for fans/lights, added 4 or 6 can lights in every room as the size required.
• 10 cans in the kitchen, 10 in the great room, 8 in the dining room.
• Pre-wired for 7.1 in the great room with the fronts/center on the wall, rears and surrounds in the ceiling.
• Pre-wired alarm on every door and window, motion sensors in the garage and RV garage and glass break sensors in the house by the sliders.
• Pre-wired 3x alarm control panels.
• RV Garage comes with a 200A panel, upgrading it to 400A.
• Added another 50A outlet in RV Garage for a total of 2.
• Added 2x 30A connections for dual mini-splits in RV Garage.
• Added another 20A 110 circuit in RV garage and 8 more outlets.
• Added 2x POE WIFI AP pre-wires in the ceilings.
• Added 4x network runs out to the RV garage.
• Pre-wired for up to 16 cameras.
• Pre-wired for outdoor kitchen/lights/ceiling fans.
• Added outlets on the eaves for Christmas lights, in case we don't go all Bah-Humbug with our new neighbors.

Flooring was $25k in upgrades. I have no idea about the electrical yet, should get numbers this week. The dude was pretty reasonable though and estimates "we're not going to be looking at too much", whatever that means.

Just got the numbers on the electrical modifications. Came to $14,970.00 after adding one more 30A in the RV garage for the lift and two 110v drops in the 3 car garage at the door wall for jackshaft door openers.

Everything looks good, except a couple of placement issues we are going to clear up over the phone in about an hour.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Picked our flooring and electrical options this last weekend.

• Flooring was going to be default and we would do it ourselves later, but the flooring company actually had really good options.
• On the entire down stairs we went with 8" x 48" tiles that look like wood planks in a light brown/grayish color with a close match on the grout. Will have 3/16" grout lines.
• Upstairs we went with a much lighter almost white 8" x 36" tile with matching grout for the bathrooms.
• Picked a grayish upgraded carpet and pad everywhere else upstairs.
• The cabinets are a slate gray and the quartz countertops are white with a white glittery speckle in them.

Electrical was a chore to iron out, but we did it.

• Added a bunch of outlets and 1&1 boxes (Coax+Ethernet) up on walls for wall mount TVs.
• Opted for the a 48" SMC for all the wiring.
• Added a second 20A circuit in my office
• Pre-wired all rooms for fans/lights, added 4 or 6 can lights in every room as the size required.
• 10 cans in the kitchen, 10 in the great room, 8 in the dining room.
• Pre-wired for 7.1 in the great room with the fronts/center on the wall, rears and surrounds in the ceiling.
• Pre-wired alarm on every door and window, motion sensors in the garage and RV garage and glass break sensors in the house by the sliders.
• Pre-wired 3x alarm control panels.
• RV Garage comes with a 200A panel, upgrading it to 400A.
• Added another 50A outlet in RV Garage for a total of 2.
• Added 2x 30A connections for dual mini-splits in RV Garage.
• Added another 20A 110 circuit in RV garage and 8 more outlets.
• Added 2x POE WIFI AP pre-wires in the ceilings.
• Added 4x network runs out to the RV garage.
• Pre-wired for up to 16 cameras.
• Pre-wired for outdoor kitchen/lights/ceiling fans.
• Added outlets on the eaves for Christmas lights, in case we don't go all Bah-Humbug with our new neighbors.

Flooring was $25k in upgrades. I have no idea about the electrical yet, should get numbers this week. The dude was pretty reasonable though and estimates "we're not going to be looking at too much", whatever that means.

Just got the numbers on the electrical modifications. Came to $14,970.00 after adding one more 30A in the RV garage for the lift and two 110v drops in the 3 car garage at the door wall for jackshaft door openers.

Everything looks good, except a couple of placement issues we are going to clear up over the phone in about an hour.

30A 220 for the lift? I'd highly recommend 220 so the lift runs fast/more efficient. I rad a 30a 220 line in the ceiling of my garage for a lift. My dad did the same thing for his 2-post.

[CorvetteWaxer]

Just got the numbers on the electrical modifications. Came to $14,970.00 after adding one more 30A in the RV garage for the lift and two 110v drops in the 3 car garage at the door wall for jackshaft door openers.

Everything looks good, except a couple of placement issues we are going to clear up over the phone in about an hour.

30A 220 for the lift? I'd highly recommend 220 so the lift runs fast/more efficient. I rad a 30a 220 line in the ceiling of my garage for a lift. My dad did the same thing for his 2-post.

Yes, it is a 220v connection on a 30 amp breaker (lift requires 25A breaker).

I'm not running any L5-30 plugs in my house... I had a hard enough time dealing with those in my first lab at work..

[ChrisoftheNorth]

30A 220 for the lift? I'd highly recommend 220 so the lift runs fast/more efficient. I rad a 30a 220 line in the ceiling of my garage for a lift. My dad did the same thing for his 2-post.

Yes, it is a 220v connection on a 30 amp breaker (lift requires 25A breaker).

I'm not running any L5-30 plugs in my house... I had a hard enough time dealing with those in my first lab at work..

Those plugs are The lift will hardwire into the box (at least Bendpak lifts do), so as long as it's there NBD.

[CorvetteWaxer]

Yes, it is a 220v connection on a 30 amp breaker (lift requires 25A breaker).

I'm not running any L5-30 plugs in my house... I had a hard enough time dealing with those in my first lab at work..

Those plugs are The lift will hardwire into the box (at least Bendpak lifts do), so as long as it's there NBD.

Yes.

The first lab I took over had some dude that wired the entire place up with 110v L5-30 twist receptacles. I dealt with it for about a month then we spent over $100k retrofitting everything to 220v L6-30's. If you're going to go to a pain in the ass plug, at least make it worth it by getting twice the power.

[wap]

So after another 4 day weekend of scraping, chipping, and blasting with a leaf blower, I pretty much finished patching the cracks, and Monday, before the tornado warning, I started filling the bigger gaps with backer rod and the quick-setting cement that requires mixing with water. This was easier than expected and went quite well and I finished it yesterday.


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