Gberg's Alpo Gorf with a bit of Plac Profit

Strut your greasy stuff!
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Gberg2119
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wap wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:35 am
Tarspin wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:25 am

Agreed. They say that it was switched up to lower internal resistance for FE figures.
0w-20 in mine too. And I heard :dat: as well.
I guess it has no impact on performance then? I'll stick with it since I've had nothing but issues in the last 2 cars.
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Tarspin wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:25 am
max225 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 10:36 am

Wow 3 different oil weights for the same engine. Proving that it doesn’t really matter which one you use

:lolgasm:
Agreed. They say that it was switched up to lower internal resistance for FE figures.
Most “Asian” brands now recommend 0-20. Meh, just a marketing ploy at this point if you ask me. Can’t possibly make any measurable difference. I’d like to understand what 0 weight really is supposed to look like, water?

The second viscosity is at normal engine temp, therefore the only “measurable” amount of difference should be at startup, or the first 5min of running. How that “saves” fuel is beyond me. Perhaps less friction at startup thanks to “water” like oil
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Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:46 am
wap wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:35 am

0w-20 in mine too. And I heard :dat: as well.
I guess it has no impact on performance then? I'll stick with it since I've had nothing but issues in the last 2 cars.
None that I could tell in my limited experience with the car. Got through the heat of summer just fine. As long as it's the recommended weight I'll keep using it nfg. Such a yuuge difference from when I used to put 20w-50 in the Scirocco in the summer and 10w-40 in the winter! :lol:
:wap: Where are these mangos?
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max225 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:47 am
Tarspin wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:25 am

Agreed. They say that it was switched up to lower internal resistance for FE figures.
Most “Asian” brands now recommend 0-20. Meh, just a marketing ploy at this point if you ask me. Can’t possibly make any measurable difference. I’d like to understand what 0 weight really is supposed to look like, water?

The second viscosity is at normal engine temp, therefore the only “measurable” amount of difference should be at startup, or the first 5min of running. How that “saves” fuel is beyond me. Perhaps less friction at startup thanks to “water” like oil
The B58 engine rec was for 0W-20. After using "genuine" BMW 0W-20, which is fking expensive, I switched to Motul 5W-40, which still slots into warranty specs. I assumed the low engine weight was to eke out 1 mpg or something, no need to run thin oil in a turbo car at 125 degrees.
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'Yota saying the hatch is basically falling off the car. I used my hulk strength to bend steel.

:mindblown:
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max225 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:47 am
Tarspin wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:25 am

Agreed. They say that it was switched up to lower internal resistance for FE figures.
Most “Asian” brands now recommend 0-20. Meh, just a marketing ploy at this point if you ask me. Can’t possibly make any measurable difference. I’d like to understand what 0 weight really is supposed to look like, water?

The second viscosity is at normal engine temp, therefore the only “measurable” amount of difference should be at startup, or the first 5min of running. How that “saves” fuel is beyond me. Perhaps less friction at startup thanks to “water” like oil
I believe it is Toyota who actually uses 0w-16 in some stuff now. The "w" is actually for the oil's cold flow properties, so an 0w will flow better than a 5w which will flow better than a 10w when cold. The number after the hyphen is the oil's weight. So, a 5w-30 and an 0w-30 will both flow the same at engine temperature.

Oil viscosities are dependent upon internal clearances with the rotating assembly (among other things), which have been getting tighter with improved manufacturing processes. The tighter clearances allow for lesser viscosity oils to provide the same protection that heavier oils offered before while increasing the engine's service life. I've seen some people just blindly scoff at the GTI's change to 0w-20 and fill it back up with 5w-40. What I haven't seen is verification that something internally wasn't changed, such as a tighter bearing clearance, to take advantage of the lighter oil weight.
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wap wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:37 am
Huckleberry wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 8:25 am

As do I. I enjoy my Rabbit spec GTI as whole. The LED headlights are fantastic.
I just noticed something - Huckleberry Hound (in your avatar) is Pornhole bloo! :lolol:
:lolol:
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Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:41 am
Huckleberry wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:08 am

Is it the block from ECS Tuning?
It is. You can take it a step further by replacing the line with a stainless steel line as well but I just went with the block both times and it was good enough for me.
I'll keep it in mind. I will have to find a car with it installed and see how the clutch feels. I must be one of the few who actually isn't bothered by the clutch's feel from the factory, unless VW changed something with the clutch for the Mk 7.5. :dunno:
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Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:34 pm 'Yota saying the hatch is basically falling off the car. I used my hulk strength to bend steel.

:mindblown:
:wat: ??

Are they implying that you damaged the hinge and it isn't a warranty defect after a month of ownership? When did Toyota hire VW execs to run the company?
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Huckleberry wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:48 pm
max225 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:47 am

Most “Asian” brands now recommend 0-20. Meh, just a marketing ploy at this point if you ask me. Can’t possibly make any measurable difference. I’d like to understand what 0 weight really is supposed to look like, water?

The second viscosity is at normal engine temp, therefore the only “measurable” amount of difference should be at startup, or the first 5min of running. How that “saves” fuel is beyond me. Perhaps less friction at startup thanks to “water” like oil
I believe it is Toyota who actually uses 0w-16 in some stuff now. The "w" is actually for the oil's cold flow properties, so an 0w will flow better than a 5w which will flow better than a 10w when cold. The number after the hyphen is the oil's weight. So, a 5w-30 and an 0w-30 will both flow the same at engine temperature.

Oil viscosities are dependent upon internal clearances with the rotating assembly (among other things), which have been getting tighter with improved manufacturing processes. The tighter clearances allow for lesser viscosity oils to provide the same protection that heavier oils offered before while increasing the engine's service life. I've seen some people just blindly scoff at the GTI's change to 0w-20 and fill it back up with 5w-40. What I haven't seen is verification that something internally wasn't changed, such as a tighter bearing clearance, to take advantage of the lighter oil weight.
Right that’s what I was saying I thought ? Hence 5 min comment to get it up to temp
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max225 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 2:03 pm
Huckleberry wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:48 pm

I believe it is Toyota who actually uses 0w-16 in some stuff now. The "w" is actually for the oil's cold flow properties, so an 0w will flow better than a 5w which will flow better than a 10w when cold. The number after the hyphen is the oil's weight. So, a 5w-30 and an 0w-30 will both flow the same at engine temperature.

Oil viscosities are dependent upon internal clearances with the rotating assembly (among other things), which have been getting tighter with improved manufacturing processes. The tighter clearances allow for lesser viscosity oils to provide the same protection that heavier oils offered before while increasing the engine's service life. I've seen some people just blindly scoff at the GTI's change to 0w-20 and fill it back up with 5w-40. What I haven't seen is verification that something internally wasn't changed, such as a tighter bearing clearance, to take advantage of the lighter oil weight.
Right that’s what I was saying I thought ? Hence 5 min comment to get it up to temp
The "w" stands for "winter" and not "weight."
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Huckleberry wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:51 pm
Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:41 am

It is. You can take it a step further by replacing the line with a stainless steel line as well but I just went with the block both times and it was good enough for me.
I'll keep it in mind. I will have to find a car with it installed and see how the clutch feels. I must be one of the few who actually isn't bothered by the clutch's feel from the factory, unless VW changed something with the clutch for the Mk 7.5. :dunno:
It's weird. I didn't really notice the delay in my Mk5 or Mk6 GTI's but it was very noticeable in both the 7 and 7.5 R's. The 7.5 I didn’t start feeling it until I had about 5k miles on it.
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Huckleberry wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 2:05 pm
max225 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 2:03 pm

Right that’s what I was saying I thought ? Hence 5 min comment to get it up to temp
The "w" stands for "winter" and not "weight."
I was referring to 0 as weight I suppose I should have clarified it as “viscosity” but both are used interchangeably
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Tarspin wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:54 pm
Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:34 pm 'Yota saying the hatch is basically falling off the car. I used my hulk strength to bend steel.

:mindblown:
:wat: ??

Are they implying that you damaged the hinge and it isn't a warranty defect after a month of ownership? When did Toyota hire VW execs to run the company?
They haven't outright said it yet but it's what they're alluding to. It's being escalated up to corporate to get toyota to pay for it.

The SA is saying that by manually shutting the hatch, you're breaking the hinges. :impressive:
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Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:34 pm 'Yota saying the hatch is basically falling off the car. I used my hulk strength to bend steel.

:mindblown:



Do you do this?
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max225 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 2:52 pm https://www.rav4world.com/threads/rear- ... ge.305832/

Image


Same issue?
I haven't seen the pics yet but that's gotta be it.

It's going through Toyota as a goodwill claim at the diller where it should be covered.
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Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 1:34 pm 'Yota saying the hatch is basically falling off the car. I used my hulk strength to bend steel.

:mindblown:
:massles:
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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max225 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 2:52 pm https://www.rav4world.com/threads/rear- ... ge.305832/

Image


Same issue?
What's up with the whiteness in the metal? Seems like too much of something was mixed into the metallurgy.
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Got the car back for now. Didn't really want to open the hatch but the gap is so wide I can see right in.

I thought the alignment was off due to one of the struts but I guess not.

Image
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:disgust:
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 7:52 pm Got the car back for now. Didn't really want to open the hatch but the gap is so wide I can see right in.

I thought the alignment was off due to one of the struts but I guess not.

Image
Image

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That looks like the gate is shearing straight off that mount. Damn exactly like in the pic I posted. Certainly seems like a recall will happen... it can’t be that rare of an occurrence. Bizzare how toyota let that happen I am frankly shocked ... not like it’s some chinese off brand
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woah, this is terribly shitty of Toyota to do. This seems like a huge safety issue. Should def become a recall soon. I'd point the Toyota tech to this issue, and maybe let Fled know so his mangler at his dealer might be able to show his network of people and escalate this internally?
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razr390 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:34 pm woah, this is terribly shitty of Toyota to do. This seems like a huge safety issue. Should def become a recall soon. I'd point the Toyota tech to this issue, and maybe let Fled know so his mangler at his dealer might be able to show his network of people and escalate this internally?
He has it at my sister store and I have the service manager there kicking it to corporate. I also have a call in to my field engineer but most of corporate is on Christmas break, and I’m currently persona non grata in my region thanks to my impending departure.

TAS notes in the system I’ve been able to find are typically show the power tailgate closing and latching in that final “pull” where the striker hits the latch is part of the problem.
If something large is in the trunk and the power tailgate closes against it and it can’t give any, it’s enough to tweak the whole lift gate and pop the hinge as the jam protection stops when the latch/striker are locking. The motors are strong as that lift gate weighs a good 80-100lbs or so.
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max225 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 10:01 pm
Gberg2119 wrote: Tue Dec 22, 2020 7:52 pm Got the car back for now. Didn't really want to open the hatch but the gap is so wide I can see right in.

I thought the alignment was off due to one of the struts but I guess not.

Image
Image

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
That looks like the gate is shearing straight off that mount. Damn exactly like in the pic I posted. Certainly seems like a recall will happen... it can’t be that rare of an occurrence. Bizzare how toyota let that happen I am frankly shocked ... not like it’s some chinese off brand
Yup. I never expected something like this from a brand new toyota.

Now I'm left with what broke first? The power struts or the hinge? The tailgate was having issues since before thanksgiving. Initial problem is that it just wouldn’t open all the way. Then a week ago it started opening all the way on it's own but wouldn’t close. Tried resetting multiple times but it would just beep a bunch when pushing the close button.
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