Those will look sweet on that thing man!gravey wrote:
These are the BBS Mahle wheels I bought, 16x7 et11
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much timeless classic look.D Griff wrote:Those will look sweet on that thing man!gravey wrote:
These are the BBS Mahle wheels I bought, 16x7 et11
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- goIftdibrad
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if the 1 was LSB i'd
brain go brrrrrr
Yea, glad I got rid of those in the trade. I'll post pics of the wheels on the e28 tonight.[user not found] wrote:Man, so much better than those Borbet Type E's.gravey wrote:
These are the BBS Mahle wheels I bought, 16x7 et11
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Dem fiero look good. :dafuq: did you crack an oil pan?
Eh, its typically easier to change wheels with studs ao that you don't have to line up the holes. Especially if you don't have the rotor set screw that keeps those from rotating when the bolts are out. (Not my car but a friends has that problem)[user not found] wrote:I prefer them.D Griff wrote:Lug bolts are anyway.
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[user not found] wrote:I prefer them.D Griff wrote:Lug bolts are anyway.
No lug stud to spin in the hub means you can always get the wheel off. If it snaps, you can still get the wheel off and its easier to correct.
It was really easy to line up the GTI wheels for installation what the problem is...
After spending 5hrs drilling out and retapping my hub after shearing a bolt, I'll stick to studs.Johnny_P wrote:[user not found] wrote:
I prefer them.
No lug stud to spin in the hub means you can always get the wheel off. If it snaps, you can still get the wheel off and its easier to correct.
It was really easy to line up the GTI wheels for installation what the problem is...
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that[user not found] wrote:Can put the wheel up on the hub first without worrying about lining up the stud and the lug hole.D Griff wrote: Out of curiosity, why?
Just throw it up, insert a lug into the bolt hole and spin it until it falls into the hole and thread it in.
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Ever have a lug spin in the hub? That's worse. You have to drill it out too, but now you're drilling with the wheel ON the car.gravey wrote:After spending 5hrs drilling out and retapping my hub after shearing a bolt, I'll stick to studs.Johnny_P wrote:
No lug stud to spin in the hub means you can always get the wheel off. If it snaps, you can still get the wheel off and its easier to correct.
It was really easy to line up the GTI wheels for installation what the problem is...
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This happened to my Focus. And it was hell. The tire shop couldn't get the wheel off because the lug nuts were frozen solid to the point the stud was spinning. They attempted to heat it, drill it, etc, and destroyed my wheel in the process. Then they actually did CUT MY WHEEL OFF. They bought a new wheel and that's how I got my car back. It took them a week.
Fucking at that. That was so goddamn stupid. It wouldn't happen with studs because as you stated you can get the wheel off and drill/re-tap. Its a lot more straightforward and if the shop doing it are all dopes, you're buying a new hub which is easier to source and do than cut a goddamn wheel off.
But the hubs spin with the wheel on the fronts, makes it a pain, and if you have spacers or just small hub penetration the wheel likes to fall off[user not found] wrote:Can put the wheel up on the hub first without worrying about lining up the stud and the lug hole.D Griff wrote: Out of curiosity, why?
Just throw it up, insert a lug into the bolt hole and spin it until it falls into the hole and thread it in.
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I'll stick to studs, and a healthy helping of antisieze and using nuts and studs of the same metal so they don't weld themselves together.Johnny_P wrote:Ever have a lug spin in the hub? That's worse. You have to drill it out too, but now you're drilling with the wheel ON the car.gravey wrote:
After spending 5hrs drilling out and retapping my hub after shearing a bolt, I'll stick to studs.
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This happened to my Focus. And it was hell. The tire shop couldn't get the wheel off because the lug nuts were frozen solid to the point the stud was spinning. They attempted to heat it, drill it, etc, and destroyed my wheel in the process. Then they actually did CUT MY WHEEL OFF. They bought a new wheel and that's how I got my car back. It took them a week.
Fucking at that. That was so goddamn stupid. It wouldn't happen with studs because as you stated you can get the wheel off and drill/re-tap. Its a lot more straightforward and if the shop doing it are all dopes, you're buying a new hub which is easier to source and do than cut a goddamn wheel off.
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True, SAWSE is one sexy dude[user not found] wrote:gravey wrote:
But the hubs spin with the wheel on the fronts, makes it a pain, and if you have spacers or just small hub penetration the wheel likes to fall off
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You need some in your life.
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Interesting... I find it to be a pain in the ass to take the wheels off or put them on with the bolts... different strokes I guess.[user not found] wrote:Can put the wheel up on the hub first without worrying about lining up the stud and the lug hole.D Griff wrote: Out of curiosity, why?
Just throw it up, insert a lug into the bolt hole and spin it until it falls into the hole and thread it in.
:wut: as long as they're torqued to spec the fuck does it matter?[user not found] wrote:Rule #1: Never use anti-seize on studs.gravey wrote:
I'll stick to studs, and a healthy helping of antisieze and using nuts and studs of the same metal so they don't weld themselves together.
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I had taken the car to Firestone before that. They ain't got no time for a torque wrench.[user not found] wrote:Luckily I've never had a stud spin. That'd be some epic time there.
Also I've never stripped or snapped a lug bolt.
Torque wrenches man. They're really something.
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Truth in this. You'd need to specify a lower torque value to get the same stud stretch on a lubricated stud vs one that's not lubricated.[user not found] wrote:And therein lies the biggest issue.gravey wrote:
:wut: as long as they're torqued to spec the fuck does it matter?
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Anti-seize distorts your torque values because you've now lubricated the threads, and makes it easier to snap the studs or strip a lug bolt.
Use anti-sieze on the hub itself only so the wheel doesn't weld itself to the hub, just don't use it on the threads.
I guess good thing I torque em by feel. Gutentight holds at 160mph.[user not found] wrote:And therein lies the biggest issue.gravey wrote:
:wut: as long as they're torqued to spec the fuck does it matter?
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Anti-seize distorts your torque values because you've now lubricated the threads, and makes it easier to snap the studs or strip a lug bolt.
Use anti-sieze on the hub itself only so the wheel doesn't weld itself to the hub, just don't use it on the threads.
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I'd go with 100 lb-ft dry, approx 70 oiled on the 1er. BMW provides a preset torque wrench set to 130Nm which is 96 lb-ft from what I read. Dry to oiled raton based on SAE 5 bolts, so a few assumptions being made.
I also rarely see tire swapping shops ever wrap up with a torque wrench. They set their air ratchets and go ape shit
I also rarely see tire swapping shops ever wrap up with a torque wrench. They set their air ratchets and go ape shit