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Waxer's Haus of Wax
- CorvetteWaxer
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Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:21 amI'm using voice to text here so forgive me if it's not perfect.
OEMs have a lot more parties that need satisfaction on tunes for engine units, the biggest one of which is probably emissions requirements, and then second reliability. this is especially important with turbo engines, because the closer you operate a turbo to its best efficiency range, the shorter it's life will be., so by definition all turbos on most OEM applications are a little bit quote oversized.
The emmisions component here is huge. if you're making more power you're making more higher cylinder pressures and you're making more nox, and that's just not acceptable to the government. again so by definition OEMs are leaving a little bit of power on the table to satisfy regulatory bodies. keep in mind technically speaking, when you install one of these tunes, you're probably in violation of federal law in some way or another. now I have a tuned car I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it. The simple fact of the matter is is that you still derp around well below the engines peak operating efficiency range, probably using what is most of the original OEM range of the tune. so you're not really doing much more harm unless you're stomping on it.
so that's my opinion when you do a tune you have to be fully aware that you're picking up some of that power that the OEMs did leave on the table for at least the two reasons I mentioned, and probably many more that I don't even have a clue about. and you have to know that you're shortening the operational life of some of your components, and decreasing overall reliability. now is this probably enough to worry about, no but go into it with eye open.
- CorvetteWaxer
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Hey, that TD1 is the next guy's problem. I'm in and out of cars so fast it won't matter to me.dubshow wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 11:41 amBig Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:21 am
I'm using voice to text here so forgive me if it's not perfect.
OEMs have a lot more parties that need satisfaction on tunes for engine units, the biggest one of which is probably emissions requirements, and then second reliability. this is especially important with turbo engines, because the closer you operate a turbo to its best efficiency range, the shorter it's life will be., so by definition all turbos on most OEM applications are a little bit quote oversized.
The emmisions component here is huge. if you're making more power you're making more higher cylinder pressures and you're making more nox, and that's just not acceptable to the government. again so by definition OEMs are leaving a little bit of power on the table to satisfy regulatory bodies. keep in mind technically speaking, when you install one of these tunes, you're probably in violation of federal law in some way or another. now I have a tuned car I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it. The simple fact of the matter is is that you still derp around well below the engines peak operating efficiency range, probably using what is most of the original OEM range of the tune. so you're not really doing much more harm unless you're stomping on it.
so that's my opinion when you do a tune you have to be fully aware that you're picking up some of that power that the OEMs did leave on the table for at least the two reasons I mentioned, and probably many more that I don't even have a clue about. and you have to know that you're shortening the operational life of some of your components, and decreasing overall reliability. now is this probably enough to worry about, no but go into it with eye open.
:kidding: :mostlyKidding:
Who gives a shit if you're a multi-millionaire? Yes, if you're in the 5% that has an issue, it's an inconvenience, but why not just go for it in this case?
I would absolutely tune my Bimmer if I cared about having more power.
- max225
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Why is it about money ? Shit not working sucks. No matter whether it is a $15,000 corolla or a 15,000,000 zonda
Because people with money have multiple cars, can rent cars NFG, can pay to have a shop . I'd say given all that it's worth it if he'll enjoy the 911 more.
personally I'm just not that big into power past a certain point, I see no point in a car with more than stock C5ish power. I think even my F30 is plenty quick, the let down performance wise in that car is really in the sound, handling, throttle response, and steering.
- wap
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[user not found] wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:27 amBig Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:21 am
I'm using voice to text here so forgive me if it's not perfect.
OEMs have a lot more parties that need satisfaction on tunes for engine units, the biggest one of which is probably emissions requirements, and then second reliability. this is especially important with turbo engines, because the closer you operate a turbo to its best efficiency range, the shorter it's life will be., so by definition all turbos on most OEM applications are a little bit quote oversized.
The emmisions component here is huge. if you're making more power you're making more higher cylinder pressures and you're making more nox, and that's just not acceptable to the government. again so by definition OEMs are leaving a little bit of power on the table to satisfy regulatory bodies. keep in mind technically speaking, when you install one of these tunes, you're probably in violation of federal law in some way or another. now I have a tuned car I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it. The simple fact of the matter is is that you still derp around well below the engines peak operating efficiency range, probably using what is most of the original OEM range of the tune. so you're not really doing much more harm unless you're stomping on it.
so that's my opinion when you do a tune you have to be fully aware that you're picking up some of that power that the OEMs did leave on the table for at least the two reasons I mentioned, and probably many more that I don't even have a clue about. and you have to know that you're shortening the operational life of some of your components, and decreasing overall reliability. now is this probably enough to worry about, no but go into it with eye open.
You missed the joke.
- max225
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If money was no issue one would get the quicker Porsche. Plenty to chose fromD Griff wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 6:21 pmBecause people with money have multiple cars, can rent cars NFG, can pay to have a shop . I'd say given all that it's worth it if he'll enjoy the 911 more.
personally I'm just not that big into power past a certain point, I see no point in a car with more than stock C5ish power. I think even my F30 is plenty quick, the let down performance wise in that car is really in the sound, handling, throttle response, and steering.
- CorvetteWaxer
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The quicker cars are AWD. That's not what I wanted in that car. All reviewers agree that the Turbo/Turbo S are the most boring 911 you can buy, and the AWD pretty much sucks the soul out of the car.max225 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:33 pmIf money was no issue one would get the quicker Porsche. Plenty to chose fromD Griff wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 6:21 pm
Because people with money have multiple cars, can rent cars NFG, can pay to have a shop . I'd say given all that it's worth it if he'll enjoy the 911 more.
personally I'm just not that big into power past a certain point, I see no point in a car with more than stock C5ish power. I think even my F30 is plenty quick, the let down performance wise in that car is really in the sound, handling, throttle response, and steering.
The GTS was the best choice for a street car.
- troyguitar
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I've never driven any Porsche and I approve this message.CorvetteWaxer wrote:The quicker cars are AWD. That's not what I wanted in that car. All reviewers agree that the Turbo/Turbo S are the most boring 911 you can buy, and the AWD pretty much sucks the soul out of the car.
The GTS was the best choice for a street car.
- max225
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GT3? I dunno it is a slippery slope as they have 40 different 911 models so picking one is tricky as there are always trade offsCorvetteWaxer wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 11:44 pmThe quicker cars are AWD. That's not what I wanted in that car. All reviewers agree that the Turbo/Turbo S are the most boring 911 you can buy, and the AWD pretty much sucks the soul out of the car.
The GTS was the best choice for a street car.
What Troy said... never driven a 911 but agree that yours is coolerCorvetteWaxer wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 11:44 pmThe quicker cars are AWD. That's not what I wanted in that car. All reviewers agree that the Turbo/Turbo S are the most boring 911 you can buy, and the AWD pretty much sucks the soul out of the car.
The GTS was the best choice for a street car.
- razr390
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You type better by voice to text than actual type to text.Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:21 amI'm using voice to text here so forgive me if it's not perfect.
OEMs have a lot more parties that need satisfaction on tunes for engine units, the biggest one of which is probably emissions requirements, and then second reliability. this is especially important with turbo engines, because the closer you operate a turbo to its best efficiency range, the shorter it's life will be., so by definition all turbos on most OEM applications are a little bit quote oversized.
The emmisions component here is huge. if you're making more power you're making more higher cylinder pressures and you're making more nox, and that's just not acceptable to the government. again so by definition OEMs are leaving a little bit of power on the table to satisfy regulatory bodies. keep in mind technically speaking, when you install one of these tunes, you're probably in violation of federal law in some way or another. now I have a tuned car I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it. The simple fact of the matter is is that you still derp around well below the engines peak operating efficiency range, probably using what is most of the original OEM range of the tune. so you're not really doing much more harm unless you're stomping on it.
so that's my opinion when you do a tune you have to be fully aware that you're picking up some of that power that the OEMs did leave on the table for at least the two reasons I mentioned, and probably many more that I don't even have a clue about. and you have to know that you're shortening the operational life of some of your components, and decreasing overall reliability. now is this probably enough to worry about, no but go into it with eye open.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Thu Oct 17, 2019 3:05 pm DFD. The forum where everybody makes the same choices and then tells anybody trying to join the club that they are the stupidest motherfucker to ever walk the earth.
- wap
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razr390 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2019 7:22 amYou type better by voice to text than actual type to text.Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:21 am
I'm using voice to text here so forgive me if it's not perfect.
OEMs have a lot more parties that need satisfaction on tunes for engine units, the biggest one of which is probably emissions requirements, and then second reliability. this is especially important with turbo engines, because the closer you operate a turbo to its best efficiency range, the shorter it's life will be., so by definition all turbos on most OEM applications are a little bit quote oversized.
The emmisions component here is huge. if you're making more power you're making more higher cylinder pressures and you're making more nox, and that's just not acceptable to the government. again so by definition OEMs are leaving a little bit of power on the table to satisfy regulatory bodies. keep in mind technically speaking, when you install one of these tunes, you're probably in violation of federal law in some way or another. now I have a tuned car I'm not saying there's anything wrong with it. The simple fact of the matter is is that you still derp around well below the engines peak operating efficiency range, probably using what is most of the original OEM range of the tune. so you're not really doing much more harm unless you're stomping on it.
so that's my opinion when you do a tune you have to be fully aware that you're picking up some of that power that the OEMs did leave on the table for at least the two reasons I mentioned, and probably many more that I don't even have a clue about. and you have to know that you're shortening the operational life of some of your components, and decreasing overall reliability. now is this probably enough to worry about, no but go into it with eye open.
- CorvetteWaxer
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- Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:35 pm
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If you live on the track a GT variant is where you want to be, but they are far from great street cars. So glad I listened to Fled and some others on this before I paid a premium and bought a GT3.max225 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2019 12:17 amGT3? I dunno it is a slippery slope as they have 40 different 911 models so picking one is tricky as there are always trade offsCorvetteWaxer wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 11:44 pm
The quicker cars are AWD. That's not what I wanted in that car. All reviewers agree that the Turbo/Turbo S are the most boring 911 you can buy, and the AWD pretty much sucks the soul out of the car.
The GTS was the best choice for a street car.
Even the GT3 touring has a no nonsense less comfortable suspension.
My car with SPASM and PDCC can be very firm or reasonably soft. Fine on the track and very good on the street.
Lots of dudes on Rennlist have posted about selling their new GT3 car and getting a GTS for these reasons.
CorvetteWaxer wrote:If you live on the track a GT variant is where you want to be, but they are far from great street cars. So glad I listened to Fled and some others on this before I paid a premium and bought a GT3.
Even the GT3 touring has a no nonsense less comfortable suspension.
My car with SPASM and PDCC can be very firm or reasonably soft. Fine on the track and very good on the street.
Lots of dudes on Rennlist have posted about selling their new GT3 car and getting a GTS for these reasons.
Could you have even bought a GT3 without buying 5 other models?
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
- CorvetteWaxer
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Yes, but I would have paid a premium over MSRP.Gberg2119 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2019 12:45 pmCorvetteWaxer wrote:
If you live on the track a GT variant is where you want to be, but they are far from great street cars. So glad I listened to Fled and some others on this before I paid a premium and bought a GT3.
Even the GT3 touring has a no nonsense less comfortable suspension.
My car with SPASM and PDCC can be very firm or reasonably soft. Fine on the track and very good on the street.
Lots of dudes on Rennlist have posted about selling their new GT3 car and getting a GTS for these reasons.
Could you have even bought a GT3 without buying 5 other models?
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
When I bought my car I had the option of 2 different GT3's that were "like new" with < 1,000 miles which is a game they play to be able to mark them up w/o Porsche getting on their case. They wanted $15-20k over MSRP. I could have done the same with two GT3RS' and one GT2RS, but they were $50k and $150k marked up, respectively.
The only thing you really gained by being a loyal repeat customer here was getting one at MSRP and getting an allocation to build to order specifically as you want.
Lame. You made the right choice with the GTSCorvetteWaxer wrote: ↑Sat Dec 07, 2019 1:31 pmYes, but I would have paid a premium over MSRP.
When I bought my car I had the option of 2 different GT3's that were "like new" with < 1,000 miles which is a game they play to be able to mark them up w/o Porsche getting on their case. They wanted $15-20k over MSRP. I could have done the same with two GT3RS' and one GT2RS, but they were $50k and $150k marked up, respectively.
The only thing you really gained by being a loyal repeat customer here was getting one at MSRP and getting an allocation to build to order specifically as you want.
- CorvetteWaxer
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Got an update from Cobb on the instructions. They realized my car is not like the turbo, it has 1 harness for the spoiler instead a group of three, and it has a plate/subframe like the targa cars.
Only problem right now is the driver side tail light is being a PITA. Passenger side is out. Can't quite lift the spoiler out until I get that light out and it's definitely hanging up on something. The passenger side just pulled out easily..
Will try to make more progress tomorrow when I put the shifter, bleeder block, bushings and clutch stop on the R.
Only problem right now is the driver side tail light is being a PITA. Passenger side is out. Can't quite lift the spoiler out until I get that light out and it's definitely hanging up on something. The passenger side just pulled out easily..
Will try to make more progress tomorrow when I put the shifter, bleeder block, bushings and clutch stop on the R.
- CorvetteWaxer
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This
Mother
Fucker
Will
Not
Come
Out
It feels like it is still locked in at the top right, where the bolts secure it to the car, and I can hear a "clunk" like it is hitting something when I try to remove it.
All the bolts are out, and I tried re-installing the bolts for the bracket thinking it might be a clearance thing. Also tried using a plastic trim tool to see it it was a clearance thing to the black subframe piece.... no dice. Really starting to feel like it needs a hammer and real pry bar at this point.
The passenger side came out easy peasy.
Mother
Fucker
Will
Not
Come
Out
It feels like it is still locked in at the top right, where the bolts secure it to the car, and I can hear a "clunk" like it is hitting something when I try to remove it.
All the bolts are out, and I tried re-installing the bolts for the bracket thinking it might be a clearance thing. Also tried using a plastic trim tool to see it it was a clearance thing to the black subframe piece.... no dice. Really starting to feel like it needs a hammer and real pry bar at this point.
The passenger side came out easy peasy.
- Desertbreh
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I feel like this is my DIY life sometimes. Easiest fucking things turn into Stalingrad.CorvetteWaxer wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2019 2:53 pm This
Mother
Fucker
Will
Not
Come
Out
It feels like it is still locked in at the top right, where the bolts secure it to the car, and I can hear a "clunk" like it is hitting something when I try to remove it.
All the bolts are out, and I tried re-installing the bolts for the bracket thinking it might be a clearance thing. Also tried using a plastic trim tool to see it it was a clearance thing to the black subframe piece.... no dice. Really starting to feel like it needs a hammer and real pry bar at this point.
The passenger side came out easy peasy.
- Desertbreh
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