I really need to stop looking at these.
https://www.tricountytoyota.com/auto/us ... /32930178/
More money than the last one, but nothing says you have to pay asking.
On the suspension front, it's been almost completely silent since taking it back. The bent end link curved in toward the fender far enough that it tore the fender liner away from the closest mounting tab. It didn't tear completely through, but it hangs out JUST enough that even with the new end link in place, under full lock that end link can still work its way inside the fender liner, then pop the plastic when the wheel straightens again. Tear doesn't appear to be getting worse and it makes the noise so rarely that I'm not sure it's worth the $100 or so to replace the liner. That doesn't at all explain the creaking noises the thing was making while I was down in Atlanta, though.
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- Johnny_P
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and that price makes it pretty attractive I think. Too bad Alfa doesn't offer the Giulia with an MT, could be worth checking one out though I hear they drive awesome. Chevy SS. Maybe older S4 or M3.coogles wrote: ↑Mon Dec 17, 2018 8:37 pm I really need to stop looking at these.
https://www.tricountytoyota.com/auto/us ... /32930178/
More money than the last one, but nothing says you have to pay asking.
On the suspension front, it's been almost completely silent since taking it back. The bent end link curved in toward the fender far enough that it tore the fender liner away from the closest mounting tab. It didn't tear completely through, but it hangs out JUST enough that even with the new end link in place, under full lock that end link can still work its way inside the fender liner, then pop the plastic when the wheel straightens again. Tear doesn't appear to be getting worse and it makes the noise so rarely that I'm not sure it's worth the $100 or so to replace the liner. That doesn't at all explain the creaking noises the thing was making while I was down in Atlanta, though.
You could fix the fender liner with a zip tie, no? You probably wouldn't even see it... My GTI made a lot of front end creaking. Dealership told me "they all do that". IIRC it was related to control arm bushings drying up.
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Not as attractive as that one that was in New Mexico, but still . Chevy SS would be great, but it'd never fit in our garage. Also, one with a is all but impossible to find. I like S4s, but I just don't love the way they drive. It'd be a great daily if I had something rowdy to drive on the weekends, but if it's my only car I think I'd get bored. Too heavy, too much weight of that weight over the nose, just not that much fun. I considered an F30, but I'm even more terrified of long term BMW ownership that long term MexiYaris ownership.Johnny_P wrote: ↑Wed Dec 19, 2018 8:47 am and that price makes it pretty attractive I think. Too bad Alfa doesn't offer the Giulia with an MT, could be worth checking one out though I hear they drive awesome. Chevy SS. Maybe older S4 or M3.
You could fix the fender liner with a zip tie, no? You probably wouldn't even see it... My GTI made a lot of front end creaking. Dealership told me "they all do that". IIRC it was related to control arm bushings drying up.
Re: the front end creaking...they may very well all be like this. All I know, though, is that I never heard a peep from the front suspension until the dealership returned the car to me after having clearly hit something. The whole idea behind ditching the STi and getting another GTI was to save money long term for a truly fun car, but if I have to replace the entire front suspension to keep from getting constantly I'm going to be spending a heck of a lot more on this car that I would have just riding out the lease, which makes me . Fuck this whole thing.
But hey, I got a message from Google that like 200 people had read my review. Hopefully it's cost them at least a sale or two.
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A picture of what I'm talking about re: the fender liner. Any MK7 dudes on here mind snagging a picture of the passenger side like this to compare? Looking at the driver's side doesn't really help because the end link mounts to the outside of the swaybar, rather than the inside.
That end link seems way too close to the inner fender, regardless of that liner being torn.
Thinking at this point I might just replace the LCA bushings with SuperPro bits to elimanite those as a possible source of noise and get some additional steering feel/response in the process, get the car aligned and make sure the subframe is centered, replace the liners and cross my fingers. It's only money, right?
That end link seems way too close to the inner fender, regardless of that liner being torn.
Thinking at this point I might just replace the LCA bushings with SuperPro bits to elimanite those as a possible source of noise and get some additional steering feel/response in the process, get the car aligned and make sure the subframe is centered, replace the liners and cross my fingers. It's only money, right?
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Whelp. I had an appointment at the dealership this morning to have the passenger side end link swapped out on their dime, and this time it was actually installed properly. The little clinks and clangs I was hearing are gone, so that's a positive.
I'd heard a bit of squealing from the front brakes over the past couple days and asked to have them checked while the wheel was off. Adviser tells me, much to my surprise, that the fronts are at 3mm on both sides. The inspection sheet from all of 3,500 miles ago shows the LF at 7mm and the RF at 8mm, and I haven't driven this car hard AT all since I've had it. So the other dealership lied about the brakes to avoid having to replace the pads before having it certified. Awesome. Not only that, but a pretty clear indication that this car was driven REALLY hard. In the nearly 60k I put on the MK6 I wasn't even close to having to do brakes. Friend's GLI has over 110k on the original brakes and the rears are just now getting close to needing to be done.
Adviser mentions that the car is pretty out of alignment and shows me the printout...almost all red. I tell them to go ahead and perform the alignment, then when I'm being checked out he tells me they couldn't get the RF back into spec. RF is at ~1.4* of negative camber, which by itself isn't terrible, but with factory hardware it should be more like .4* - .5*. He said he didn't ask the tech what he thought was damaged, but that it was probably the same impact that bent the old end link. More .
So now I'm looking at $200-$250 to DIY the brakes, plus either living with borked suspension bits on the RF or going on a goose chase to figure out what needs to be replaced.
Fuck this stupid, stupid car. What an epic mistake.
I'd heard a bit of squealing from the front brakes over the past couple days and asked to have them checked while the wheel was off. Adviser tells me, much to my surprise, that the fronts are at 3mm on both sides. The inspection sheet from all of 3,500 miles ago shows the LF at 7mm and the RF at 8mm, and I haven't driven this car hard AT all since I've had it. So the other dealership lied about the brakes to avoid having to replace the pads before having it certified. Awesome. Not only that, but a pretty clear indication that this car was driven REALLY hard. In the nearly 60k I put on the MK6 I wasn't even close to having to do brakes. Friend's GLI has over 110k on the original brakes and the rears are just now getting close to needing to be done.
Adviser mentions that the car is pretty out of alignment and shows me the printout...almost all red. I tell them to go ahead and perform the alignment, then when I'm being checked out he tells me they couldn't get the RF back into spec. RF is at ~1.4* of negative camber, which by itself isn't terrible, but with factory hardware it should be more like .4* - .5*. He said he didn't ask the tech what he thought was damaged, but that it was probably the same impact that bent the old end link. More .
So now I'm looking at $200-$250 to DIY the brakes, plus either living with borked suspension bits on the RF or going on a goose chase to figure out what needs to be replaced.
Fuck this stupid, stupid car. What an epic mistake.
Never trust a unless it's zilldor.coogles wrote: ↑Fri Jan 11, 2019 12:36 pm Whelp. I had an appointment at the dealership this morning to have the passenger side end link swapped out on their dime, and this time it was actually installed properly. The little clinks and clangs I was hearing are gone, so that's a positive.
I'd heard a bit of squealing from the front brakes over the past couple days and asked to have them checked while the wheel was off. Adviser tells me, much to my surprise, that the fronts are at 3mm on both sides. The inspection sheet from all of 3,500 miles ago shows the LF at 7mm and the RF at 8mm, and I haven't driven this car hard AT all since I've had it. So the other dealership lied about the brakes to avoid having to replace the pads before having it certified. Awesome. Not only that, but a pretty clear indication that this car was driven REALLY hard. In the nearly 60k I put on the MK6 I wasn't even close to having to do brakes. Friend's GLI has over 110k on the original brakes and the rears are just now getting close to needing to be done.
Adviser mentions that the car is pretty out of alignment and shows me the printout...almost all red. I tell them to go ahead and perform the alignment, then when I'm being checked out he tells me they couldn't get the RF back into spec. RF is at ~1.4* of negative camber, which by itself isn't terrible, but with factory hardware it should be more like .4* - .5*. He said he didn't ask the tech what he thought was damaged, but that it was probably the same impact that bent the old end link. More .
So now I'm looking at $200-$250 to DIY the brakes, plus either living with borked suspension bits on the RF or going on a goose chase to figure out what needs to be replaced.
Fuck this stupid, stupid car. What an epic mistake.
Maybe previous owner was a vapebro who did suspension mods?
What did the dillerbro do again? Was it somewhere in the VW thread?
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Wow dude, I am sorry to hear about this. The really did a number on this one sounds like you got a car that was ridden really hard and put away wet. All that said, I think it'll be ok once it is all said and done. These things can take a beating... Also have you taken a look at the brakes yourself? they should be visible straight through the wheels...coogles wrote: ↑Fri Jan 11, 2019 12:36 pm Whelp. I had an appointment at the dealership this morning to have the passenger side end link swapped out on their dime, and this time it was actually installed properly. The little clinks and clangs I was hearing are gone, so that's a positive.
I'd heard a bit of squealing from the front brakes over the past couple days and asked to have them checked while the wheel was off. Adviser tells me, much to my surprise, that the fronts are at 3mm on both sides. The inspection sheet from all of 3,500 miles ago shows the LF at 7mm and the RF at 8mm, and I haven't driven this car hard AT all since I've had it. So the other dealership lied about the brakes to avoid having to replace the pads before having it certified. Awesome. Not only that, but a pretty clear indication that this car was driven REALLY hard. In the nearly 60k I put on the MK6 I wasn't even close to having to do brakes. Friend's GLI has over 110k on the original brakes and the rears are just now getting close to needing to be done.
Adviser mentions that the car is pretty out of alignment and shows me the printout...almost all red. I tell them to go ahead and perform the alignment, then when I'm being checked out he tells me they couldn't get the RF back into spec. RF is at ~1.4* of negative camber, which by itself isn't terrible, but with factory hardware it should be more like .4* - .5*. He said he didn't ask the tech what he thought was damaged, but that it was probably the same impact that bent the old end link. More .
So now I'm looking at $200-$250 to DIY the brakes, plus either living with borked suspension bits on the RF or going on a goose chase to figure out what needs to be replaced.
Fuck this stupid, stupid car. What an epic mistake.
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The story goes like this.
Bought the car, but it had a ding in the lower rocker and was missing the spare key. I insisted both things be remedied as part of the deal, so I came back about 4 weeks later once they could coordinate having the PDR guy and the person who could program the second remote on site at the same time. Wasn't there long before the owner came out to tell me their PDR guy couldn't pull the dent. I had two options, 1. Leave the car there, take a loaner, and let them fix the dent and return the car to me. Or 2. Make yet a third two hour one-way trip for an appointment at their body shop. I opted for #1, I had a newborn at the time and felt guilty about leaving my wife at home by herself for another Saturday while she was already at home by herself all week, since I'd gone back to work by then.
After the car was returned to me I could instantly tell the suspension was fucked. Creaking over even the smallest bumps, popping noises while turning the wheel, something was definitely not right. I took the car to a local dealer, the one where I purchased the MK6 and had it serviced for most of the time I had it, and had them check it out. Borked RF strut mount and bearing and a bent end link. The strut mounts and bearings on both sides got warrantied somehow, but VW wouldn't warranty the end links due to "outside influence", e.g. hitting a gigantic pot hole. The dealership I bought the car from denied any wrongdoing and VWofA had no power to make them pay for the repair. My guess is the old geezer they hired to bring me the car hit a massive pot hole, but that when it left the dealer it was totally fine.
I replaced the end links myself, but I screwed up the passenger side by copying the orientation of the one that was already installed. It was on the front of the strut and the inboard side of the swaybar, which routed the end link too close to the inner fender. Either while the PO had it or when the local tech replaced the strut mounts, that end link got put on incorrectly and I just put it back the way it was. My adviser comped the install of a second replacement end link for me and I had it aligned while I was there. Tech thinks the strut body is ever so slightly bent, but you can't tell with just a visual.
The worst part about all of it is that I really like the car. I'm torn between wanting to fix it and make it Zil-spec or bail completely. But if I do the latter, WTF am I going to get to replace it? I'd feel like a dope just getting another GTI, but this is the car I want. I just don't want THIS car.
Probably. The rabbit spec is pretty great.coogles wrote:Should've just ponied up and bought a new one. Dat bloo.
Although if it's just a strut how much would that be to replace?
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I'd just fix it and be done. Probably just the strut. Can buy for pennies on the dollar from some vapebro that swapped his out for eBay COILZ .
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
Stance nation bro probably won't split them though.
OE strut is $178 on ECS so I'd assume you can find it cheaper elsewhere.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein-pa ... 30539~bil/
Yep. $102 from autozone.
https://www.autozone.com/suspension-ste ... 62964_2888
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Done deal.Gberg2119 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 15, 2019 4:49 pmStance nation bro probably won't split them though.
OE strut is $178 on ECS so I'd assume you can find it cheaper elsewhere.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein-pa ... 30539~bil/
Yep. $102 from autozone.
https://www.autozone.com/suspension-ste ... 62964_2888
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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OE is Sachs doe. You can't have a Bilstein B4 on one side and a Sachs on the other. IMHO.Gberg2119 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 15, 2019 4:49 pmStance nation bro probably won't split them though.
OE strut is $178 on ECS so I'd assume you can find it cheaper elsewhere.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein-pa ... 30539~bil/
Yep. $102 from autozone.
https://www.autozone.com/suspension-ste ... 62964_2888
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Frustration is understandable but this is not a 'VW' thing this is a shit previous owner, buying used, and shit thing. It could've happened to anyone with any used car.coogles wrote: ↑Fri Jan 11, 2019 12:36 pm Whelp. I had an appointment at the dealership this morning to have the passenger side end link swapped out on their dime, and this time it was actually installed properly. The little clinks and clangs I was hearing are gone, so that's a positive.
I'd heard a bit of squealing from the front brakes over the past couple days and asked to have them checked while the wheel was off. Adviser tells me, much to my surprise, that the fronts are at 3mm on both sides. The inspection sheet from all of 3,500 miles ago shows the LF at 7mm and the RF at 8mm, and I haven't driven this car hard AT all since I've had it. So the other dealership lied about the brakes to avoid having to replace the pads before having it certified. Awesome. Not only that, but a pretty clear indication that this car was driven REALLY hard. In the nearly 60k I put on the MK6 I wasn't even close to having to do brakes. Friend's GLI has over 110k on the original brakes and the rears are just now getting close to needing to be done.
Adviser mentions that the car is pretty out of alignment and shows me the printout...almost all red. I tell them to go ahead and perform the alignment, then when I'm being checked out he tells me they couldn't get the RF back into spec. RF is at ~1.4* of negative camber, which by itself isn't terrible, but with factory hardware it should be more like .4* - .5*. He said he didn't ask the tech what he thought was damaged, but that it was probably the same impact that bent the old end link. More .
So now I'm looking at $200-$250 to DIY the brakes, plus either living with borked suspension bits on the RF or going on a goose chase to figure out what needs to be replaced.
Fuck this stupid, stupid car. What an epic mistake.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Thu Oct 17, 2019 3:05 pm DFD. The forum where everybody makes the same choices and then tells anybody trying to join the club that they are the stupidest motherfucker to ever walk the earth.
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I think the best solution is contact a different dealer, explain the situation. etc. Sorry that you had to go through the previous owners consequences.razr390 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 15, 2019 6:44 pmFrustration is understandable but this is not a 'VW' thing this is a shit previous owner, buying used, and shit thing. It could've happened to anyone with any used car.coogles wrote: ↑Fri Jan 11, 2019 12:36 pm Whelp. I had an appointment at the dealership this morning to have the passenger side end link swapped out on their dime, and this time it was actually installed properly. The little clinks and clangs I was hearing are gone, so that's a positive.
I'd heard a bit of squealing from the front brakes over the past couple days and asked to have them checked while the wheel was off. Adviser tells me, much to my surprise, that the fronts are at 3mm on both sides. The inspection sheet from all of 3,500 miles ago shows the LF at 7mm and the RF at 8mm, and I haven't driven this car hard AT all since I've had it. So the other dealership lied about the brakes to avoid having to replace the pads before having it certified. Awesome. Not only that, but a pretty clear indication that this car was driven REALLY hard. In the nearly 60k I put on the MK6 I wasn't even close to having to do brakes. Friend's GLI has over 110k on the original brakes and the rears are just now getting close to needing to be done.
Adviser mentions that the car is pretty out of alignment and shows me the printout...almost all red. I tell them to go ahead and perform the alignment, then when I'm being checked out he tells me they couldn't get the RF back into spec. RF is at ~1.4* of negative camber, which by itself isn't terrible, but with factory hardware it should be more like .4* - .5*. He said he didn't ask the tech what he thought was damaged, but that it was probably the same impact that bent the old end link. More .
So now I'm looking at $200-$250 to DIY the brakes, plus either living with borked suspension bits on the RF or going on a goose chase to figure out what needs to be replaced.
Fuck this stupid, stupid car. What an epic mistake.
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Desertbreh wrote:OE is Sachs doe. You can't have a Bilstein B4 on one side and a Sachs on the other. IMHO.Gberg2119 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 15, 2019 4:49 pm Stance nation bro probably won't split them though.
OE strut is $178 on ECS so I'd assume you can find it cheaper elsewhere.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein-pa ... 30539~bil/
Yep. $102 from autozone.
https://www.autozone.com/suspension-ste ... 62964_2888
I thought it was Bilstein. That's the only one that comes up when I drill down on ECS. Maybe Mk7 is Bilstein and Mk6 was Sachs?
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Ah. This calls for full air ride then.[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 12:35 pmBilstein B4s are just OE-level replacement struts. Not the same as OEM.
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If Bilstein could ever get this shit together I'd use this whole episode as an excuse to get this -
https://www.ajusa.com/shop-by-brand/bil ... 20318.html
https://www.ajusa.com/shop-by-brand/bil ... 20318.html
coogles wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 3:15 pm If Bilstein could ever get this shit together I'd use this whole episode as an excuse to get this -
https://www.ajusa.com/shop-by-brand/bil ... 20318.html
Do sway bars too.
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They are probably better than Sachs but you can't mix and match[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 12:35 pmBilstein B4s are just OE-level replacement struts. Not the same as OEM.
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Yep I did sways, B8s and DG springs on my Mk6 and it was a blast to drive.Gberg2119 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 9:30 pmcoogles wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 3:15 pm If Bilstein could ever get this shit together I'd use this whole episode as an excuse to get this -
https://www.ajusa.com/shop-by-brand/bil ... 20318.html
Do sway bars too.
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This looks like a good price for all of that.coogles wrote: ↑Wed Jan 16, 2019 3:15 pm If Bilstein could ever get this shit together I'd use this whole episode as an excuse to get this -
https://www.ajusa.com/shop-by-brand/bil ... 20318.html
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I put DG springs and Koni Sports on my along with forged 18s and MPS s and loved it. Set the shocks on the softer side and the ride was top shelf! I'd do that again if I were looking at suspension mods on the egg.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Thu Jan 17, 2019 12:09 amYep I did sways, B8s and DG springs on my Mk6 and it was a blast to drive.