Dem bicicletas dos, doe.

[Johnny_P]

Some bontrager wheels use plastic snap in rim strips for tubeless. Ask the shop.

[troyguitar]

I forced myself to go out for an hour today, between being busy and unable to sleep I've felt like garbage and not really exercised at all for the past ~3 months. I gained about 12 lbs and went from ~13 to ~18% body fat in that time as well...

...and I still ride the bike at the exact same speed, 17 mph at ~175 bpm.

[troyguitar]

I am also in the process of going full on a bike for no reason. I just paid for this frame tonight:

https://www.liv-cycling.com/us/langma-a ... -disc-2018



54cm Liv Langma AKA Giant TCR with purple paint. Carbon, disc brake, etc. I still need to source wheels, shifters, brakes, and cranks but have a lot of other parts here already from various modding of shit.

Anyone have a line on some cheap shimano 11-speed hydraulic shifters/brakes or tubeless disc wheels?

[D Griff]

I am also in the process of going full on a bike for no reason. I just paid for this frame tonight:

https://www.liv-cycling.com/us/langma-a ... -disc-2018



54cm Liv Langma AKA Giant TCR with purple paint. Carbon, disc brake, etc. I still need to source wheels, shifters, brakes, and cranks but have a lot of other parts here already from various modding of shit.

Anyone have a line on some cheap shimano 11-speed hydraulic shifters/brakes or tubeless disc wheels?

Nice man! Do you think you'll enjoy it more than the previous bike? Looks 5/7 to me!

[troyguitar]

It should end up better since I have tried more stuff now and have a better idea of what I like... for example I don't want/need 40mm tires and I don't care for SRAM's shifting. This frame is a size bigger than my superx, too, which should be a more proper size.

The 2 things I haven't tried yet are aero and electronic shifting. Dunno if I'll spend the cash for di2, but there are affordable aero wheels out there that I can test. I figure that if I buy used stuff at decent prices then I can try whatever I want without losing much money.

Whether I'll end up thinking that a bike is actually any more fun than my machine is another question.

[coogles]

I think you'll like that TCR quite a bit. Even though the Domane I test-rode was carbon and the Emonda is aluminum, the extra snap from the Emonda was instantly noticeable. The quicker handling is fun too; it's just a more entertaining ride. That I could drop more than a pound with a wheelset is ridiculous too. The stock Bontragers are supposedly ~2,150g. It won't be happening next week or anything, but that'll be a fun change when it does happen.

[D Griff]

I think you'll like that TCR quite a bit. Even though the Domane I test-rode was carbon and the Emonda is aluminum, the extra snap from the Emonda was instantly noticeable. The quicker handling is fun too; it's just a more entertaining ride. That I could drop more than a pound with a wheelset is ridiculous too. The stock Bontragers are supposedly ~2,150g. It won't be happening next week or anything, but that'll be a fun change when it does happen.

I look forward to one day making this upgrade as well

I figure the longer I go without, the more it'll be. It's nice to space things out for me.

I could also use my current wheelset for gravel potentially.

[troyguitar]

I'm thinking about trying Chinese

https://icancycling.com/products/aero-40-disc-wheelset

[troyguitar]

Fuggit, I bought some cheapo DT swiss aluminum to get started and am piecing together an ultegra hydraulic disc group.

Di2 is interesting but and the main benefits seem to be for bikes with front derailleurs. I'm planning on going 1x with an 11-34T cassette and 48T front to start. If I get strong maybe I can upgrade to 50T and 11-28?

For reference, bike shit is fucking expensive now. R8020 shifters and brake calipers ran me fucking $750 just now.

[troyguitar]

So I'm on the fence on cassettes. I only ever really use up to the 24 or maaaaaybe 28T riding locally, but if I ever end up going anywhere else I could need a lot more - plus isn't it better to size the cassette such that you are using the middle most of the time?

I'm looking at shimano 11-34 vs 11-32 or SRAM 11-36.

The SRAM 11-36 has 11-12-13 at the top end vs 11-13-15 from the shimano 11-34. Shimano 11-32 on the other hand is a hell of a lot lighter than either of those options, around 300g vs 400g.

They're otherwise all about the same price and available-ish presently and work with the same derailleur.

[troyguitar]

So I'm on the fence on cassettes. I only ever really use up to the 24 or maaaaaybe 28T riding locally, but if I ever end up going anywhere else I could need a lot more - plus isn't it better to size the cassette such that you are using the middle most of the time?

I'm looking at shimano 11-34 vs 11-32 or SRAM 11-36.

The SRAM 11-36 has 11-12-13 at the top end vs 11-13-15 from the shimano 11-34. Shimano 11-32 on the other hand is a hell of a lot lighter than either of those options, around 300g vs 400g.

They're otherwise all about the same price and available-ish presently and work with the same derailleur.

If you’re going 1x, go with the bigger range. 11-34 is what I’d do, especially if you ever branch out into Florida hill country.

I went full and ordered the 11-36, in part because it also gives me the 11-12-13 up top.

I think at this point I have now ordered everything I need for the bike, so we're just for shipping. I expect to eventually want some carbon but I guess I'll wait to do that until I get some miles on the bike. I also have 28mm tarz on backorder until who the fuck knows when...

Even with crazy COVID component prices it's still going to be a full carbon disc brake bike with cool paint and full R8020 Ultegra for about $2000 shipped. I guess I can't really complain about that.

[troyguitar]

There's a little bit of in there because I'm not counting the cost of things that I already have on the shelf, like my $200 Fizik R1 saddle... but it's roughly accurate in that I'll end up with a bike that is a better fit for me (here) than the superx for less than I sold that one for. So it's not some crazy deal but it should be good for me personally.

[troyguitar]

Oh I'm done with saddles, it's the rest of the bike that I'm on so far. The Arione is the only thing that I can ride on at all, for whatever reason. Hopefully this langma will be a good ride. Worst case I sell it so

[troyguitar]

In other news, I finally convinced the wife to ride her bike. ~10 mile round trip for brunch at about 8 mph, at least she didn't crash.

[D Griff]

So I'm on the fence on cassettes. I only ever really use up to the 24 or maaaaaybe 28T riding locally, but if I ever end up going anywhere else I could need a lot more - plus isn't it better to size the cassette such that you are using the middle most of the time?

I'm looking at shimano 11-34 vs 11-32 or SRAM 11-36.

The SRAM 11-36 has 11-12-13 at the top end vs 11-13-15 from the shimano 11-34. Shimano 11-32 on the other hand is a hell of a lot lighter than either of those options, around 300g vs 400g.

They're otherwise all about the same price and available-ish presently and work with the same derailleur.

If you’re going 1x, go with the bigger range. 11-34 is what I’d do, especially if you ever branch out into Florida hill country.

Hopefully I'll get around to it soon, but my plan it to use the 11-36 cassette I have sitting at home with a 1X 50T up front when I finally do my overhaul on the Raleigh for commuting duties.

[troyguitar]

If you’re going 1x, go with the bigger range. 11-34 is what I’d do, especially if you ever branch out into Florida hill country.

Hopefully I'll get around to it soon, but my plan it to use the 11-36 cassette I have sitting at home with a 1X 50T up front when I finally do my overhaul on the Raleigh for commuting duties.

You probably don't need a 50T for that. I have 48T with 11-32 1x8 on my Trek and never go anywhere near the 11T rear around town, even running on 25mm GP5000TL's. In hindsight I would go with a 46T up front and the pirelli cinturato velo TLR's for some more durability.

Also, if you haven't already sourced cranks then check out wolf tooth for 1x chainrings. They make them for a lot of different cranks, including standard shimano. On the new bike I'm going to run a standard ultegra crank with a wolf tooth 48T ring.

[coogles]

The FX 4 hybrid I tried out has a 42T up front and a Deore 11-51 out back, and I thought it was great for around-town riding. The smaller 42T made it a snap to get up to speed, and with the wider spread between ratios out back it was snick-snick-snick and you're going 20mph in a heartbeat. Would recommend.

[D Griff]

Hopefully I'll get around to it soon, but my plan it to use the 11-36 cassette I have sitting at home with a 1X 50T up front when I finally do my overhaul on the Raleigh for commuting duties.

You probably don't need a 50T for that. I have 48T with 11-32 1x8 on my Trek and never go anywhere near the 11T rear around town, even running on 25mm GP5000TL's. In hindsight I would go with a 46T up front and the pirelli cinturato velo TLR's for some more durability.

Also, if you haven't already sourced cranks then check out wolf tooth for 1x chainrings. They make them for a lot of different cranks, including standard shimano. On the new bike I'm going to run a standard ultegra crank with a wolf tooth 48T ring.

We have hills though. I use the hardest gears (53/11 IIRC) on my other bike regularly. My commute still has quite a bit of elevation gain, it's nice to be able to go fast downhill.

I still need to see what all will actually work with the bike so it remains to be seen. Getting something like your Trek would be way smarter but I like the way the Raleigh looks and it has sentimental value.

[troyguitar]

You probably don't need a 50T for that. I have 48T with 11-32 1x8 on my Trek and never go anywhere near the 11T rear around town, even running on 25mm GP5000TL's. In hindsight I would go with a 46T up front and the pirelli cinturato velo TLR's for some more durability.

Also, if you haven't already sourced cranks then check out wolf tooth for 1x chainrings. They make them for a lot of different cranks, including standard shimano. On the new bike I'm going to run a standard ultegra crank with a wolf tooth 48T ring.

We have hills though. I use the hardest gears (53/11 IIRC) on my other bike regularly. My commute still has quite a bit of elevation gain, it's nice to be able to go fast downhill.

I still need to see what all will actually work with the bike so it remains to be seen. Getting something like your Trek would be way smarter but I like the way the Raleigh looks and it has sentimental value.

I tend to forget that you're also about 4x stronger than me, so if I can use a 46 then you can use a fuck load more than that.

[fledonfoot]

Troy how does the geometry compare on the Liv to the Giant counterpart? On the MTB side of their lineup there’s some noticeable changes to the frame sizing, just wondering if it’s as noticeable on the road side too?

[fledonfoot]

I actually rode a mountain bike on a real trail on Monday for the first time in over a year. Wife and I went to Nox and spent most of the morning sessioning a 3/4 mile section of one of the loops they’ve built into a flowy, bermy, pumpable section with a climb back to the start.

I took the Nukeproof out, dropped the pressures down to about 14psi, and just tried to relax. Started to pick up some speed and confidence, got the bike airborne for a split second and had a small panic attack.

Just worked on the basics and trying to move the bike around. I’m paying for it today, everything hurts and my arm is fucking screaming.
I’m having some significant PTSD and just need to keep at it.

[troyguitar]

Troy how does the geometry compare on the Liv to the Giant counterpart? On the MTB side of their lineup there’s some noticeable changes to the frame sizing, just wondering if it’s as noticeable on the road side too?

Good question, to be honest I hadn't looked at the TCR geometry to compare to the Langma but they are slightly different - or at least were in 2018 when mine was made. All very small changes though, reach and stack are both within 1mm of each other for my size M.

Trek has no frame changes other than paint for the women's models but apparently Giant does make a bunch of small changes, looks like every measurement is slightly different. Whether I'd be able to notice if I were to ride the Liv/Giant versions back to back with the same saddle/bars/cranks/wheels/tires I don't know. Here's the frame I'm getting vs the TCR equivalent:

https://www.liv-cycling.com/us/langma-a ... -disc-2018

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/tcr-a ... meset-2018

I did get one rainy/windy ride in this afternoon before the storm really came in today and learned one thing: Riding on slick tires in a storm over a metal grated drawbridge is a bad idea.

Luckily I didn't fall, but I'm sure as hell stopping and walking it over next time.

[D Griff]

I actually rode a mountain bike on a real trail on Monday for the first time in over a year. Wife and I went to Nox and spent most of the morning sessioning a 3/4 mile section of one of the loops they’ve built into a flowy, bermy, pumpable section with a climb back to the start.

I took the Nukeproof out, dropped the pressures down to about 14psi, and just tried to relax. Started to pick up some speed and confidence, got the bike airborne for a split second and had a small panic attack.

Just worked on the basics and trying to move the bike around. I’m paying for it today, everything hurts and my arm is fucking screaming.
I’m having some significant PTSD and just need to keep at it.

I saw you rode on Strava and was stoked for you! It can be hard getting back after even an easy fall, good on you for getting out there. You'll be back to your former glory soon!

[Johnny_P]

I actually rode a mountain bike on a real trail on Monday for the first time in over a year. Wife and I went to Nox and spent most of the morning sessioning a 3/4 mile section of one of the loops they’ve built into a flowy, bermy, pumpable section with a climb back to the start.

I took the Nukeproof out, dropped the pressures down to about 14psi, and just tried to relax. Started to pick up some speed and confidence, got the bike airborne for a split second and had a small panic attack.

Just worked on the basics and trying to move the bike around. I’m paying for it today, everything hurts and my arm is fucking screaming.
I’m having some significant PTSD and just need to keep at it.

Nice! Take it slow

[troyguitar]

...aaaaand I have officially gone to build a superbike on a 105 budget. I just scored a decent deal on some carbon

https://us.huntbikewheels.com/collectio ... 2762085421

Got those coming for $700, so this "cheap" bike is now going to end up around $2400 all-in. Oddly, it seems like the last component I might receive is a fucking 11-speed chain.

SuperX sold for $2800 plus I still need to sell off the carbon I had for it (they're too wide to fit the Langma) so around $3500 in profit total on the old bike. The Langma plus the Domane will probably end up costing the same in total, 2 for 1 is a trade IMO.

The stupid thing in all of this is that, in buying deals as I found them, I will actually end up with a bunch of parts to resell. I have 2 rear derailleurs, 2 cassettes, 2 wheelsets, 2 pair of rotors, and 3 cranksets either here or on the way. Time to start a bike shop.