:wtf: WAP made a car thread? AKA the most boring car thread ever

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Desertbreh
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Tar wrote: Sun May 29, 2022 10:10 am
Huckleberry wrote: Sun May 29, 2022 9:17 am

I thought it was every 30,000 miles? I just changed the fluid in mine.

The other thing with these cars is the brake fluid needs to be changed three years after purchase, and then every two years afterwards. That was an update that VW mailed out.
What are your thoughts on that frequency? I'm always going the distance with brake fluid (like double the recommended) and have yet to experience brake fade or any other problems. I guess water causes rusting of brake lines? Who knows?
I have a motive power bleeder, a quickjack, an air wrench to remove lugs and a torque wrench to put them back on. That makes it very easy to run two quarts of ATE Dot 4 through all my brakes on the reg. In addition to safety and peace of mind, it keeps the various components of your braking system from needing repair/replacement.
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
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Desertbreh
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And he basically repeats the same thing everybody else already said. DFD, the homogenous brake fluid forum.
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
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Desertbreh wrote: Mon May 30, 2022 4:37 pm And he basically repeats the same thing everybody else already said. DFD, the homogenous brake fluid forum.
Probably the only people on the entire internet save track day bros who change brake fluid.

I really need to get some kind of impact though, the wheel removal/replacement is the most time consuming aspect of this job for me.
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D Griff
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The Motive is certainly an overpriced milk jug, but man is it worth it for the convenience.

Do y'all actually put fluid in the container? I just top off the car's master cylinder and use it to pressurize.
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D Griff wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 12:33 pm The Motive is certainly an overpriced milk jug, but man is it worth it for the convenience.

Do y'all actually put fluid in the container? I just top off the car's master cylinder and use it to pressurize.
I do it the same as you and I have ZERO IDEA how you are going to put fluid in the container without running a shitload of air through your system, and everyone on the internet glosses this fact over as well. Even if the hose was completely filled with fluid/air free, you would still have the air between the Motive cap and your master cylinder. I don't get it at all. :in4enlightenment:
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
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Desertbreh wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:05 pm
D Griff wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 12:33 pm The Motive is certainly an overpriced milk jug, but man is it worth it for the convenience.

Do y'all actually put fluid in the container? I just top off the car's master cylinder and use it to pressurize.
I do it the same as you and I have ZERO IDEA how you are going to put fluid in the container without running a shitload of air through your system, and everyone on the internet glosses this fact over as well. Even if the hose was completely filled with fluid/air free, you would still have the air between the Motive cap and your master cylinder. I don't get it at all. :in4enlightenment:
I used to do it myself... but at around $120-200 for a full flush it seems like money way better spent. I have never spent less than 2 hrs dealing with brake fluid exchanges and then you always have to get rid of it at a toxic waste dump which is another 40 min round trip to no where.
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D Griff wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 12:32 pm
Desertbreh wrote: Mon May 30, 2022 4:37 pm And he basically repeats the same thing everybody else already said. DFD, the homogenous brake fluid forum.
Probably the only people on the entire internet save track day bros who change brake fluid.

I really need to get some kind of impact though, the wheel removal/replacement is the most time consuming aspect of this job for me.
:dat:
The last time I changed brake fluid myself was on my Beetle, 37 years ago. :lol: :wap:
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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D Griff wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 12:32 pm
Desertbreh wrote: Mon May 30, 2022 4:37 pm And he basically repeats the same thing everybody else already said. DFD, the homogenous brake fluid forum.
Probably the only people on the entire internet save track day bros who change brake fluid.

I really need to get some kind of impact though, the wheel removal/replacement is the most time consuming aspect of this job for me.
I did chase some air out of the MBZ driver rear line last time I changed it. I was hoping for some kind of rock hard 8 piston caliper P car pedal..........and it didn't happen. Some improvement but not transformational. I've gotten pretty pit crew on my ramz and the quickjack helps a lot. Three of my BMW ramz were seized on the hub last time doe, basically had to kick them loose. Added anti-seize where wheel meets hub when reinstalling.
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
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max225 wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:08 pm
Desertbreh wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:05 pm

I do it the same as you and I have ZERO IDEA how you are going to put fluid in the container without running a shitload of air through your system, and everyone on the internet glosses this fact over as well. Even if the hose was completely filled with fluid/air free, you would still have the air between the Motive cap and your master cylinder. I don't get it at all. :in4enlightenment:
I used to do it myself... but at around $120-200 for a full flush it seems like money way better spent. I have never spent less than 2 hrs dealing with brake fluid exchanges and then you always have to get rid of it at a toxic waste dump which is another 40 min round trip to no where.
My toxic waste dump is very conveniently located so that helps with the DIY
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
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Desertbreh wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:10 pm
max225 wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:08 pm

I used to do it myself... but at around $120-200 for a full flush it seems like money way better spent. I have never spent less than 2 hrs dealing with brake fluid exchanges and then you always have to get rid of it at a toxic waste dump which is another 40 min round trip to no where.
My toxic waste dump is very conveniently located so that helps with the DIY
:dat: storm drain?

I mostly didn't have issues with air but occasionally they did happen... but I used the suck at the bleed nipple method vs push at the reservoir method. Overall it seems better to be done by pros. Brake fluid isn't super cheaper either... $30 in parts... easily. + clean up + toxic waste run + occasional fuck up...
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Re: toxic waste dump... I just pour it into the used oil container at my local AutoZone, is this not a thing? It's like a mile from my house and on the way to/from lots of shit.
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One problem with the shop strategy... are they really using the fluid you want? On a street car :aintcare: but I'd like the ability to turn some laps in my car when the opportunity presents itself. OEM fluid does not work on the track, period.
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D Griff wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:19 pm Re: toxic waste dump... I just pour it into the used oil container at my local AutoZone, is this not a thing? It's like a mile from my house and on the way to/from lots of shit.
No... You're not supposed to do that.
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max225 wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:15 pm
Desertbreh wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:10 pm

My toxic waste dump is very conveniently located so that helps with the DIY
:dat: storm drain?

I mostly didn't have issues with air but occasionally they did happen... but I used the suck at the bleed nipple method vs push at the reservoir method. Overall it seems better to be done by pros. Brake fluid isn't super cheaper either... $30 in parts... easily. + clean up + toxic waste run + occasional fuck up...
We call it ABOP in Riverside Co. Antifreeze, Batteries, Oil and Paint. Definitely one of my favorite uses of .gov funds.
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
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max225 wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:23 pm
D Griff wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:19 pm Re: toxic waste dump... I just pour it into the used oil container at my local AutoZone, is this not a thing? It's like a mile from my house and on the way to/from lots of shit.
No... You're not supposed to do that.
:dat: ABOP dudes always ask if there is anything else in my motor oil.
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
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D Griff wrote: Tue May 31, 2022 1:19 pm Re: toxic waste dump... I just pour it into the used oil container at my local AutoZone, is this not a thing? It's like a mile from my house and on the way to/from lots of shit.
Repair shops basically have two tanks for waste fluid: "Coolant" and "Not Coolant." I keep a container for each of those categories in my garage.
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Well now I feel a bit bad about what I've done for the past 15+ years. My dad would always use the old brake fluid as weed killer :yikes: at least I have improved in that way. I always figured that it wasn't actually recycled and just hoped they somehow safely disposed of it.

No one in the Southeast GAF about anything but I do on a personal level, I'll have to find the brake fluid disposal place next time.

I actually need to bleed the 328i one more time after I installed the SS lines recently, it still feels ever so slightly to soft in the pedal for me.
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A bit under 32k miles and 3 years of ownershit. Car is now 4 years old so I took it in today for its annual earl change. I also bought an extra quart to keep in the hatch as it consumed about a half-quart over the past year. My Mk6 did that too in its earlier years but the consumption stopped later on in its too-short life. Had a coupon for a free :225: rotation but the SA said they opted not to do it because the better tires were already on the front. :notsure: :yeahok: :ohwell: . He also said I'll need front pads and rotors in a year. My Mk6 was on its original rotors and pads all around when it was totaled at almost 10 years old so also :notsure: . He also said I need tires. Whatever. I'll dump these dumpy Dunlops next year and pick up something then.

$109 for the oil and filter change. All in it was $137 for the change plus fluid topoff, extra qt of oil, tire fill up. Which reminds me, I should check the tire pressures because they rarely get them all right and consistent. lol

So 3 years in and the car is still tight and pretty much rattle-free. Yay MQB I guess. No leaks (no sunroof, either), Still decently quick and quiet. Still getting about 26 mpg in (sub)urban driving and can easily get into the low-mid 30's in extended highway driving.
Still don't much care for the infotainment system. BT connects pretty reliably but overall sound is a bit meh and I still miss my CD changer and COMPASS. :triggered: :wap:
:csb:
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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:impressive:
Compass mention and update
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wap wrote: Fri May 05, 2023 10:07 pm A bit under 32k miles and 3 years of ownershit. Car is now 4 years old so I took it in today for its annual earl change. I also bought an extra quart to keep in the hatch as it consumed about a half-quart over the past year. My Mk6 did that too in its earlier years but the consumption stopped later on in its too-short life. Had a coupon for a free :225: rotation but the SA said they opted not to do it because the better tires were already on the front. :notsure: :yeahok: :ohwell: . He also said I'll need front pads and rotors in a year. My Mk6 was on its original rotors and pads all around when it was totaled at almost 10 years old so also :notsure: . He also said I need tires. Whatever. I'll dump these dumpy Dunlops next year and pick up something then.

$109 for the oil and filter change. All in it was $137 for the change plus fluid topoff, extra qt of oil, tire fill up. Which reminds me, I should check the tire pressures because they rarely get them all right and consistent. lol

So 3 years in and the car is still tight and pretty much rattle-free. Yay MQB I guess. No leaks (no sunroof, either), Still decently quick and quiet. Still getting about 26 mpg in (sub)urban driving and can easily get into the low-mid 30's in extended highway driving.
Still don't much care for the infotainment system. BT connects pretty reliably but overall sound is a bit meh and I still miss my CD changer and COMPASS. :triggered: :wap:
:csb:
Your brakes probably wear faster because they are Golf R brakes versus the bullshit we got in the MK6.

I was around mid 40’s when I got mine handled. I did all 4 corners but not necessary. Fronts wear before rears.
:doughnut: :narc: :doughnut:
Desertbreh wrote: Thu Oct 17, 2019 3:05 pm DFD. The forum where everybody makes the same choices and then tells anybody trying to join the club that they are the stupidest motherfucker to ever walk the earth.
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razr390 wrote: Sun May 07, 2023 10:31 am
wap wrote: Fri May 05, 2023 10:07 pm A bit under 32k miles and 3 years of ownershit. Car is now 4 years old so I took it in today for its annual earl change. I also bought an extra quart to keep in the hatch as it consumed about a half-quart over the past year. My Mk6 did that too in its earlier years but the consumption stopped later on in its too-short life. Had a coupon for a free :225: rotation but the SA said they opted not to do it because the better tires were already on the front. :notsure: :yeahok: :ohwell: . He also said I'll need front pads and rotors in a year. My Mk6 was on its original rotors and pads all around when it was totaled at almost 10 years old so also :notsure: . He also said I need tires. Whatever. I'll dump these dumpy Dunlops next year and pick up something then.

$109 for the oil and filter change. All in it was $137 for the change plus fluid topoff, extra qt of oil, tire fill up. Which reminds me, I should check the tire pressures because they rarely get them all right and consistent. lol

So 3 years in and the car is still tight and pretty much rattle-free. Yay MQB I guess. No leaks (no sunroof, either), Still decently quick and quiet. Still getting about 26 mpg in (sub)urban driving and can easily get into the low-mid 30's in extended highway driving.
Still don't much care for the infotainment system. BT connects pretty reliably but overall sound is a bit meh and I still miss my CD changer and COMPASS. :triggered: :wap:
:csb:
Your brakes probably wear faster because they are Golf R brakes versus the bullshit we got in the MK6.

I was around mid 40’s when I got mine handled. I did all 4 corners but not necessary. Fronts wear before rears.
Thanks. SA told me :dat: , too. Do you :member: :wat: brakes and rotors at all 4 corners cost you?
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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Random reference point... my Mk6 brakes were at 80% at 75k miles. But I am very easy on the brakes :doe:

4 brakes and rotors at a stealer will be a 2-3k proposition. Or 1500 or so at an indy
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max225 wrote: Mon May 08, 2023 12:32 pm Random reference point... my Mk6 brakes were at 80% at 75k miles. But I am very easy on the brakes :doe:

4 brakes and rotors at a stealer will be a 2-3k proposition. Or 1500 or so at an indy
Yeah I try to go easy on brakes too and never had to replace them on my :gti: in my 7 years and 166k miles of ownershit.
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max225 wrote: Mon May 08, 2023 12:32 pm Random reference point... my Mk6 brakes were at 80% at 75k miles. But I am very easy on the brakes :doe:

4 brakes and rotors at a stealer will be a 2-3k proposition. Or 1500 or so at an indy
I agree with both you and :sawce: . As I mentioned above I also never replaced brakes on my Mk6, and I fell that I am also easy on them. SA dude told me the Mk7/5 PP brakes use a higher metallic pad, as iTrude alluded to above. :iono:

Oh, and the :dillerman: estimate for the brake job was around $800 I believe, but I'll have to confirm tonight. I may be :wrong: based on your estimate above. I'll post the estimate here this evening.
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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$800 might be pads only.
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