Gberg's Alpo Gorf with a bit of Plac Profit

[Gberg2119]

Yup. Nothing I can do about it . You can see how much more wear is on the outside by looking at the wear bars in the second pic. I don't remember my pirelli's or extreme contact dw's ever chunking.

Would the rear bar kind of help? Less understeery.

Maybe a little bit, but you need more static front camber, something in the 2.0*-2.5* range probably. If you want to stay OEM, this is your best bet -

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.ph ... ix.376620/

There are other options like the 034 camber top hats or ball joints depending on what you want to do.

https://store.034motorsport.com/dynamic ... s-mqb.html

https://store.034motorsport.com/dynamic ... b-evo.html

I know camber mounts are an option, it's just not something I want to do. I'd always be chasing something with suspension. Plus they probably push me into another class anyway where I'll also get wrecked by something even more modified.

[max225]

It’s the tires man. They make a huge difference. When I was driving a couple of m4s back to back on the track here certain brands really fall apart during extreme driving conditions.

If you really wanted to track all the time and were chasing times I’d probably get a different set of wheels and tires for that. Street<<>> track is really hard to blend

[coogles]

It’s the tires man. They make a huge difference. When I was driving a couple of m4s back to back on the track here certain brands really fall apart during extreme driving conditions.

If you really wanted to track all the time and were chasing times I’d probably get a different set of wheels and tires for that. Street<<>> track is really hard to blend

It most definitely is not just the tires, he needs front camber or this will happen with any tire that's put on there. A strut type suspension does not gain camber as the suspension compresses, and actually loses it as vehicle leans and the sidewall deflects.

Seriously, look into those CSS knuckles. It's an OEM part simply cast with different geometry. There will be zero NVH penalty, and it's an OEM casting so no one will have any idea anything is done from the perspective of AutoX classes.

[D Griff]

Looks like someone was doing some major ing due to understeer. I would rotate these to the back yea, but tires unfortunately wear out during extreme driving events as such. They look like "normal" wear to me due to aggressive driving.

It plows a lot. Again, I don't know if it's me or the car, but I'm about 2 seconds off GTI's with RE-71's. Although maybe a GTI is just better suited for autocross than an R. A little bit lighter plus the front diff and sticky tires.

I think the tires/driver (no offense) would be the biggest differentiator.

I'd say a 200TW tire would be OK, I've pretty much rolled on them exclusively for several years. If you don't do a huge number of miles, it's sort of as you will get more wear from the couple hundred high performance driving miles than you will 10,000 miles on the street. So basically, you're probably getting 10K miles out of anything you get if you keep doing high performance stuff frequently. I will caveat that my experience is much more road course biased but I think fundamentally it's similar.

Definitely rotate the as well.

For me when I really tear up the fronts it's because I'm overdriving the car (turning in fast, out slow kind of thing), but it may be inevitable in autox.

[razr390]

What tires are those? I have friends who have Michelin PS4S and they swear by them for high performance driving.

I think camber is, like griff said, probably 3rd behind tire brand/quality/sidewall stiffness + driver.

Gberg, I think you might be overdriving the car. It is heavier than a GTI yea, and the English towns are also heavier than most OEM wheels (looking at you, Pretoria). But I think you should challenge yourself to try and see if slow is smooth and smooth is fast applies to any of your runs?

[Gberg2119]

It plows a lot. Again, I don't know if it's me or the car, but I'm about 2 seconds off GTI's with RE-71's. Although maybe a GTI is just better suited for autocross than an R. A little bit lighter plus the front diff and sticky tires.

I think the tires/driver (no offense) would be the biggest differentiator.

I'd say a 200TW tire would be OK, I've pretty much rolled on them exclusively for several years. If you don't do a huge number of miles, it's sort of as you will get more wear from the couple hundred high performance driving miles than you will 10,000 miles on the street. So basically, you're probably getting 10K miles out of anything you get if you keep doing high performance stuff frequently. I will caveat that my experience is much more road course biased but I think fundamentally it's similar.

Definitely rotate the as well.

For me when I really tear up the fronts it's because I'm overdriving the car (turning in fast, out slow kind of thing), but it may be inevitable in autox.

It probably is me but I don't really have much to compare too. I've only run against 1 other stock R and I was .3 off his time with him running 18" wheels and PS4S.

They mentioned possibly doing an intermediate autocross school next year which I'll take. Next event isn't until August 13th and 14th so I've got some time.

Can a 200TW hold up on long drives? It's roughly a 100 mile drive I take to the shore on weekends. Mostly expressway.

[Gberg2119]

It’s the tires man. They make a huge difference. When I was driving a couple of m4s back to back on the track here certain brands really fall apart during extreme driving conditions.

If you really wanted to track all the time and were chasing times I’d probably get a different set of wheels and tires for that. Street<<>> track is really hard to blend

It most definitely is not just the tires, he needs front camber or this will happen with any tire that's put on there. A strut type suspension does not gain camber as the suspension compresses, and actually loses it as vehicle leans and the sidewall deflects.

Seriously, look into those CSS knuckles. It's an OEM part simply cast with different geometry. There will be zero NVH penalty, and it's an OEM casting so no one will have any idea anything is done from the perspective of AutoX classes.

That's definitely the best option. $667 + shipping + install. Probably looking at close to a grand but it probably makes a big difference.

[D Griff]

I think the tires/driver (no offense) would be the biggest differentiator.

I'd say a 200TW tire would be OK, I've pretty much rolled on them exclusively for several years. If you don't do a huge number of miles, it's sort of as you will get more wear from the couple hundred high performance driving miles than you will 10,000 miles on the street. So basically, you're probably getting 10K miles out of anything you get if you keep doing high performance stuff frequently. I will caveat that my experience is much more road course biased but I think fundamentally it's similar.

Definitely rotate the as well.

For me when I really tear up the fronts it's because I'm overdriving the car (turning in fast, out slow kind of thing), but it may be inevitable in autox.

It probably is me but I don't really have much to compare too. I've only run against 1 other stock R and I was .3 off his time with him running 18" wheels and PS4S.

They mentioned possibly doing an intermediate autocross school next year which I'll take. Next event isn't until August 13th and 14th so I've got some time.

Can a 200TW hold up on long drives? It's roughly a 100 mile drive I take to the shore on weekends. Mostly expressway.

I think heat cycles wear out the rubber before the tread is gone typically, so a ton of short drives would likely be worst than those 100 mile stretches. I’ve done a lot of drives to tail of the dragon, Atlanta, the coast, mountains on 200TW (most of these are a couple hundred miles) without issues, mine definitely always wore from track use more than that stuff.

They do tend to be sort of loud which is annoying for highway use though.

[Gberg2119]

What tires are those? I have friends who have Michelin PS4S and they swear by them for high performance driving.

I think camber is, like griff said, probably 3rd behind tire brand/quality/sidewall stiffness + driver.

Gberg, I think you might be overdriving the car. It is heavier than a GTI yea, and the English towns are also heavier than most OEM wheels (looking at you, Pretoria). But I think you should challenge yourself to try and see if slow is smooth and smooth is fast applies to any of your runs?

They're continental contisportcontact 5P. So definitely not in the same class as PS4S or ECS.

The event I did this weekend was basically all slalom as it's on just one runway. Slalom up one side, slalom back the other. Not much they can do with the course. The jersey region has bigger courses. I'll try the slow and smooth approach next time.

[Gberg2119]

So it’s the roughly $1000 dollhair question.

CSS knuckles or ramz and tires. Although with ramz and tires I’d get some dollhairs back by selling the englishtowns.

[razr390]

So it’s the roughly $1000 dollhair question.

CSS knuckles or ramz and tires. Although with ramz and tires I’d get some dollhairs back by selling the englishtowns.

Rams and tires for sure bro

[Gberg2119]

Dieselgeek and H&R rear bar ordered.

[Gberg2119]

So I forgot to buy a few nuts and bolts to go along with the sway bar install since they're claimed one time use. Went to the local VW on Saturday to buy them and the parts guy tried ringing me up for $40 for 6 bolts and 4 nuts. Searching the part numbers right on their website shows the price at $1.60 for one of the bolts and this dude tried charging me $5 for it. I hit him with the and told him it should be around $20 for everything. So then he adjusts the price on everything to what their site shows.

I knew this diller had a sleazy sales department but

[max225]

So I forgot to buy a few nuts and bolts to go along with the sway bar install since they're claimed one time use. Went to the local VW on Saturday to buy them and the parts guy tried ringing me up for $40 for 6 bolts and 4 nuts. Searching the part numbers right on their website shows the price at $1.60 for one of the bolts and this dude tried charging me $5 for it. I hit him with the and told him it should be around $20 for everything. So then he adjusts the price on everything to what their site shows.

I knew this diller had a sleazy sales department but

Happens all the fucking time. I never understood how dealers essentially make up their own parts costs. Happened to me multiple times on multiple brands.

It also makes 0 sense that it’s cheaper to buy parts from a dealer 10 states away and pay shipping and come out ahead. Scumbags

[Gberg2119]

So I forgot to buy a few nuts and bolts to go along with the sway bar install since they're claimed one time use. Went to the local VW on Saturday to buy them and the parts guy tried ringing me up for $40 for 6 bolts and 4 nuts. Searching the part numbers right on their website shows the price at $1.60 for one of the bolts and this dude tried charging me $5 for it. I hit him with the and told him it should be around $20 for everything. So then he adjusts the price on everything to what their site shows.

I knew this diller had a sleazy sales department but

Happens all the fucking time. I never understood how dealers essentially make up their own parts costs. Happened to me multiple times on multiple brands.

It also makes 0 sense that it’s cheaper to buy parts from a dealer 10 states away and pay shipping and come out ahead. Scumbags

Do they not think I can just plug the part number into google and see the prices from a ton of different dealers?

The lengths they go to to try and screw the customer is absurd.

[D Griff]

Happens all the fucking time. I never understood how dealers essentially make up their own parts costs. Happened to me multiple times on multiple brands.

It also makes 0 sense that it’s cheaper to buy parts from a dealer 10 states away and pay shipping and come out ahead. Scumbags

Do they not think I can just plug the part number into google and see the prices from a ton of different dealers?

The lengths they go to to try and screw the customer is absurd.

I guess most people don't...

Surely $20 for six bolts and four nuts already has plenty of margin in it?

[Gberg2119]

H&R rear bar is IN. First impressions are zero since it was a 2 minute drive back from the shop in rush hour traffic. I took one turn it felt nice. I'll drive it some more this weekend. The big 2 day autocross is this weekend and of course I can't make it.

Still haven't gotten around to doing the dieselgeek but shops and the dillerman want around $240 for it. I'm sure I can do it myself but the cable adjustment and possibly snapping the stud on the shift tower is what worries me. Although dieselgeek says on their 2022 version cable adjustment is virtually non existent. As long as the shift tower and stick are locked it's as simple as allowing the cable end to grab the cable.

[SAWCE]

I loved the Dieselgeek shifter on my MKVI. One of the first things I did.

[Gberg2119]

I loved the Dieselgeek shifter on my MKVI. One of the first things I did.

I can't believe I waited this long to do one. A guy had it in his GLI at an autocross and it was super . With a weighted knob it must be

[SAWCE]

Derp

[SAWCE]

I loved the Dieselgeek shifter on my MKVI. One of the first things I did.

I can't believe I waited this long to do one. A guy had it in his GLI at an autocross and it was super . With a weighted knob it must be

Just that nice, mechanical feeling when it clicks into place for each gear Would have loved to try it with a weighted knob.

[Gberg2119]

I can't believe I waited this long to do one. A guy had it in his GLI at an autocross and it was super . With a weighted knob it must be

Just that nice, mechanical feeling when it clicks into place for each gear Would have loved to try it with a weighted knob.

It's been quite a while since I've driven a honda but it reminded me of my brother's RSX Type S from back in the day.

I was really surprised you could get a VW shifter to feel that mechanical.

[D Griff]

Just that nice, mechanical feeling when it clicks into place for each gear Would have loved to try it with a weighted knob.

It's been quite a while since I've driven a honda but it reminded me of my brother's RSX Type S from back in the day.

I was really surprised you could get a VW shifter to feel that mechanical.

That is high praise, you're making me regret not doing it on my That shifter was certainly the mehness.

[Gberg2119]

It's been quite a while since I've driven a honda but it reminded me of my brother's RSX Type S from back in the day.

I was really surprised you could get a VW shifter to feel that mechanical.

That is high praise, you're making me regret not doing it on my That shifter was certainly the mehness.

Yeah it felt really good. Hopefully I get it installed this weekend.

I did the OEM euro short shifter on my which helped but it was more of an incremental improvement. I didn't do anything on my Mk7 until now since it felt pretty much the same as the one I did on my

[Gberg2119]

Of course I didn't have time to put the shifter in but I did do some driving and the rear bar doesn't seem to be as as everyone claims. Can't be because of the stock end links?

I've never done just a rear bar but on my I did both and that was a change. This? Not so much despite the stock rear bar being 21.7mm and the H&R being 25mm solid. Seems like a very incremental upgrade. I'll see if I notice a substantial change next autocross.

I still have a mega for RS3 . Doesn't help all the reviews are raving about it.