Adeeb's Cheese Adventures

[wap]

[Desertbreh]

A couple days ago, the got its first oil change under my ownership. Being my first time under the car, I did some exploration while I was there, and was just laying there in

All the aluminum suspension bits , the little Nurburgrings on the shocks, the power plant frame thing bracing the engine-trans-diff assembly together. Very cool to see all that. Also the car is super clean underneath. Minor surface rust in a couple areas as expected from age but otherwise in incredible condition.





The oil filter position is a bit of a pain, almost impossible to not spill any, but it is what it is.

Top mounted oil filters should be federal law along with wrapping paper that has the grid on the back side.

[adoob]

Top mounted oil filters should be federal law along with wrapping paper that has the grid on the back side.

Indeed. Top mount makes life so much easier.

[adoob]

It amazes me how incredibly easy it is to get this thing up on all 4 jack stands. I love it. The VWs had no solid way to do this as the center of the pinch weld reportedly couldn’t take all the weight, and there were no front or rear center jack points.


Rotated the tires this morning because I didn’t have time when I did the oil change on Friday.

Also got the chance to take good underbody pics with it up so high.

[Desertbreh]

So you can put two jackstands at a time under the front and rear with a center jack point?

[adoob]

So you can put two jackstands at a time under the front and rear with a center jack point?

If I lift on either side on the pinch weld roughly under the mirror or in line with the shifter, I can place jack stands on that side’s “official” lift points at the front and rear of the pinch weld. Repeating for the other side gets all 4 stands on the official lift points easy.

A front center jack point would be the subframe but it’s too far for my jack to reach from the front, but the diff housing works as a rear center jack point that my jack just barely reaches.

Very how easy the all 4 is though. Think that’s gonna be my go-to.

[adoob]

Little bro’s car is here.

Behold, the Miata. Need names for this one roughly related to Cheese.



More pics to come tomorrow/soon.

[D Griff]

Z3 is dope.

[Tar]

Whore d'oeuvre? I still like Le Chez better than whore d'oeuvre but it's a superb looking car. Congrats dude-bro's bro!

[CaleDeRoo]

Pimento





Then you have pimento cheez

[razr390]

Little bro’s car is here.

Behold, the Miata. Need names for this one roughly related to Cheese.



More pics to come tomorrow/soon.

Mac, so it's like red & yellow for McDonald's, but also Mac & Cheese

[wap]

Z3 is dope.

[wap]

Whiz.

[SAWCE]

PepperJack

[Huckleberry]

I've always had a soft spot for Z3s.

[Tar]

I like Mac, as in Mac N Cheese or McShits color combo.

[adoob]

I was thinking Tomato to keep it simple but a lot of these are great. He doesn’t want to name it yet.

$900 in preventative maintenance has been ordered from FCP Euro, and $300 in mods. Exhaust bits (muffler, resonator, and tips to cut and weld into factory exhaust) and a carplay headunit for mods. Maintenance is full drivetrain fluid service kits, brakes, crank-driven fan delete kit with a new water pump and thermostat, ignition service kit with new plugs and coils, intake boot to replace the cracked factory one, and a new coolant expansion tank because the one on the car appears factory. We’ve also got some unopened Stoptech STR600 brake fluid originally meant to go in the Golf that we’ll instead be flushing the Z3 with.

Basically giving the car a full baseline to make sure everything is in solid working order.

Gauge cluster is also going to be pulled out and shipped to Autotronics in the UK to have the EEP_2 code fixed so that it works again. At least, that’s the plan. Supposedly it’s just a cracked solder joint that causes the issue so I’m tempted to grab a solder iron off Amazon and attempt it myself. Never soldered anything myself but it would be nice to have for getting deeper into electronics work, might as well try.

[D Griff]

I was thinking Tomato to keep it simple but a lot of these are great. He doesn’t want to name it yet.

$900 in preventative maintenance has been ordered from FCP Euro, and $300 in mods. Exhaust bits (muffler, resonator, and tips to cut and weld into factory exhaust) and a carplay headunit for mods. Maintenance is full drivetrain fluid service kits, brakes, crank-driven fan delete kit with a new water pump and thermostat, ignition service kit with new plugs and coils, intake boot to replace the cracked factory one, and a new coolant expansion tank because the one on the car appears factory. We’ve also got some unopened Stoptech STR600 brake fluid originally meant to go in the Golf that we’ll instead be flushing the Z3 with.

Basically giving the car a full baseline to make sure everything is in solid working order.

Gauge cluster is also going to be pulled out and shipped to Autotronics in the UK to have the EEP_2 code fixed so that it works again. At least, that’s the plan. Supposedly it’s just a cracked solder joint that causes the issue so I’m tempted to grab a solder iron off Amazon and attempt it myself. Never soldered anything myself but it would be nice to have for getting deeper into electronics work, might as well try.

the maintenance should give solid peace of mind and keep things running well. Are you flushing the coolant as well? Older BMW cooling systems are known to not be the best, so I would at least do that and inspect everything.

Edit: I assume that's a yes since new water pump and therma are going in.

Soldering isn't very hard. I would go for it, just practice a few times before going at the gauge cluster.

[D Griff]

Pimento





Then you have pimento cheez

Fuck that looks good.

[CaleDeRoo]

Pimento





Then you have pimento cheez

Fuck that looks good.

You're so Carolina





Agree

[Huckleberry]

I was thinking Tomato to keep it simple but a lot of these are great. He doesn’t want to name it yet.

$900 in preventative maintenance has been ordered from FCP Euro, and $300 in mods. Exhaust bits (muffler, resonator, and tips to cut and weld into factory exhaust) and a carplay headunit for mods. Maintenance is full drivetrain fluid service kits, brakes, crank-driven fan delete kit with a new water pump and thermostat, ignition service kit with new plugs and coils, intake boot to replace the cracked factory one, and a new coolant expansion tank because the one on the car appears factory. We’ve also got some unopened Stoptech STR600 brake fluid originally meant to go in the Golf that we’ll instead be flushing the Z3 with.

Basically giving the car a full baseline to make sure everything is in solid working order.

Gauge cluster is also going to be pulled out and shipped to Autotronics in the UK to have the EEP_2 code fixed so that it works again. At least, that’s the plan. Supposedly it’s just a cracked solder joint that causes the issue so I’m tempted to grab a solder iron off Amazon and attempt it myself. Never soldered anything myself but it would be nice to have for getting deeper into electronics work, might as well try.

If it is just a cracked solder joint, you would just need to heat up the solder enough for it to flow back together. Maybe add a touch more, but then you have to be careful not to overdo it and the solder flows to a place it shouldn't and make another connection.

[adoob]

Gave the a two bucket wash today in prep for the Orlando Roadsters meet plus the fact that it hasn’t been washed in what feels like at least a month.





Also, custom plate is finally on the way.

[adoob]

If it is just a cracked solder joint, you would just need to heat up the solder enough for it to flow back together. Maybe add a touch more, but then you have to be careful not to overdo it and the solder flows to a place it shouldn't and make another connection.

Yeah. I was thinking about it but brother decided he’d rather pay a shop to do it. Forums suggest some company in the UK that you ship your cluster to.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

If it is just a cracked solder joint, you would just need to heat up the solder enough for it to flow back together. Maybe add a touch more, but then you have to be careful not to overdo it and the solder flows to a place it shouldn't and make another connection.

Yeah. I was thinking about it but brother decided he’d rather pay a shop to do it. Forums suggest some company in the UK that you ship your cluster to.

Soldering is easy once you get the hang of it. But it's getting the hang of it that's the tough part if you've never done it before. I'd probably agree to ship it off to a shop that knows what they're doing.

[MexicanYarisTK]

Little bro’s car is here.

Behold, the Miata. Need names for this one roughly related to Cheese.



More pics to come tomorrow/soon.

so essentially 2 miatas