Dem bicicletas dos, doe.
Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2021 9:10 pm
Dang. Try calling around to the Philly stores?
Dang. Try calling around to the Philly stores?
That’s annoying about the bottom bracket. I guess over time the frame opens up a bit? Is it cracked at all down there?[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Sep 22, 2021 9:22 pmI had one of the Trek stores do a regional search a few months ago, and there was nothing. Apparently with Trek dealers, they can do "dealer trades" essentially.
I'm not in a rush, I'm really not in the mood to blow a fat wad on a new bike right now. I've still gotta pay for the railing on the porch to be done (a little terrified to find out how much material costs have gone up, I'll find out Saturday morning), I should also get some fence work done on the backyard (move a gate and install a double gate), and I need to get the R53 aligned. I've got things I can put that money towards.
I'll just keep greasing the bottom bracket on the CAAD every 1000-1200 miles or so. I last had it redone at the end of July - which was 1200 miles ago. It just started making noise again, but thankfully only when I'm out of the saddle for now.
For sure. I can't imagine I will ever let it go, as I am one to take good care of my stuff as well. The middle ground is good. It usually doesn't get all hat dirty after rides as it tends to be nice here. I was just ranty yesterday because I was astounded at how gross the roads were and made me and my stuff. I think it just rained so much that a bunch of grime washed into the roads.[user not found] wrote: ↑Wed Sep 22, 2021 8:58 pmFind some middle ground?
Not sure why it's gotta beor Zilspec.
I keep my stuff clean because I'm anal retentive and like clean things that don't creak and squeak. I also believe in taking care of my stuff - aside from the dented top tube, my CAAD10 looks incredible for a nearly 10 year old bike that's been ridden very hard. Letting sweat and grime sit on the paint long term just leads to bearing and finish (and structural, if a metal frame) issues.
Also I reuse the quick links, have done so for years. Chain gets pulled and soaked in mineral spirits to degrease/degrime, and then I pull it through a rag to clean, and relube with Boeshield T9. Cassette also gets flossed with an old rag and simple green, and maybe agitated with a brush. It's been my method for years now.
As far as a deep clean, that's an annual thing, unless I happened to ride in some really nasty conditions (Vermont Overland, I'm looking at you).
It istroyguitar wrote: ↑Wed Sep 22, 2021 5:15 pm5 minutes with a hose and chain lube gets you 90% of the job done. I hate looking at the bike super filthy and especially hate hearing the chain/gears be crunchy while I pedal, so I'm with you on that... but at the same time, I lived on my bike from like age 5 to 15 and maybe cleaned that thing once a year. Nothing ever failed.
Yeah I think that if you have pretty good position/ergonomics/gearing you can go plenty fast on most frames. Aero/weight only make like a 10% difference at the most. 10% if massive if you are a pro and even for me it is a big difference that I care about, but it is less than most people would lead you to believe. Cycling in general is too obsessed with gear IMO, ride whatcha got/like, you can be pretty fast on anything.troyguitar wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 11:55 am You could do a1x8 setup for like $200 all-in and see some massive ease-of-use improvements.
My R2000 Claris 1x8 setup with the aliexpress crank on the Domane is perfect, as was the 3x8 Claris on my old Motobecane.
I kind of want to sell my carbon bike at this point, it's not faster - at least not with my weak ass pedaling it. I'd rather work on some random cheaper projects instead
Doylestown has an SL6 Disc Pro 56[user not found] wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 9:03 amNo cracks, but there's enough tolerance in the shell that once the grease gets moved around/pushed out, a ticking develops under load. Starts off innocently enough (right now, it's only under out of the saddle efforts after things warm up), but graduates into a tick with every pedal stroke. That's when I start to lose my mind.
I'd like to just test ride a 56 and a 58 Emonda, which I can't do. I'm not ready to order anything yet.
100%[user not found] wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 1:46 pmWell, aero becomes exponentially more effective the faster you go.D Griff wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 12:10 pm
Yeah I think that if you have pretty good position/ergonomics/gearing you can go plenty fast on most frames. Aero/weight only make like a 10% difference at the most. 10% if massive if you are a pro and even for me it is a big difference that I care about, but it is less than most people would lead you to believe. Cycling in general is too obsessed with gear IMO, ride whatcha got/like, you can be pretty fast on anything.
If you’re not going that fast, aero gear isn’t gonna do much.
A large part of me enjoys going faster than others on old and outdated gear. Really catches people off guard.
[user not found] wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 1:46 pmWell, aero becomes exponentially more effective the faster you go.D Griff wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 12:10 pm
Yeah I think that if you have pretty good position/ergonomics/gearing you can go plenty fast on most frames. Aero/weight only make like a 10% difference at the most. 10% if massive if you are a pro and even for me it is a big difference that I care about, but it is less than most people would lead you to believe. Cycling in general is too obsessed with gear IMO, ride whatcha got/like, you can be pretty fast on anything.
If you’re not going that fast, aero gear isn’t gonna do much.
The people at trek cherry hill are awesome. I literally walked in unannounced with the Ripmo frame and asked them to press the headset cups and they took it right back and knocked it out. I also ended up buying a set of tubeless valve stems, a hip pack, a new multi tool, a few odds and ends, and they threw me a $15 water bottle at no charge.[user not found] wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 1:56 pmThanks dude.
Might need to take a field trip to Cherry Hill.
Guy’s is technically a Trek dealer but they haven’t been able to get much in stock.
[user not found] wrote: ↑Sat Sep 25, 2021 6:31 amLighter wheels will have one of the biggest impacts on bike feel, certainly something to consider.coogles wrote: ↑Fri Sep 24, 2021 8:35 pm I rode the Emonda SL6 eTap today for...reasons. No idea why. Second pass with the Rival eTap group was really nice actually. Not sure why I didn't like it the first time around, but it's snappy and intuitive once you adjust to it.
It's not even a full pound lighter than my bike, but I'd guess all of that weight difference is in the wheelset. Felt way snappier...makes me want to put some carbon Hunts or similar on mine, despite that being a total waste of money given how little I'm able to ride.
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Also, don’t be down on how little you’ve ridden the bike. The nice thing is if you want to ride it, you’ve got it.
[user not found] wrote: ↑Sat Sep 25, 2021 11:04 amI'm not sure, but I feel like it should be a thing.troyguitar wrote: ↑Sat Sep 25, 2021 10:56 am Can't you program di2 buttons to do whatever you want? I was thinking that if I got it I would make it like flappy paddles on a car. Up on one hand and down on the other, vs going both ways with both hands.
You essentially do that with AXS, which is pretty rad.
I am looking more into 8 or 9 speed... that is plenty of gears,troyguitar wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 11:55 am You could do a1x8 setup for like $200 all-in and see some massive ease-of-use improvements.
My R2000 Claris 1x8 setup with the aliexpress crank on the Domane is perfect, as was the 3x8 Claris on my old Motobecane.
I kind of want to sell my carbon bike at this point, it's not faster - at least not with my weak ass pedaling it. I'd rather work on some random cheaper projects instead
They have 11-34 for 8 and 9 speed, plus 11-36 for 9 (and 10) speed, all in basic cheapo Shimano standard parts and they work with standard current road derailleurs. R2000/R3000 are bothD Griff wrote:I am looking more into 8 or 9 speed... that is plenty of gears,troyguitar wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 11:55 am You could do a1x8 setup for like $200 all-in and see some massive ease-of-use improvements.
My R2000 Claris 1x8 setup with the aliexpress crank on the Domane is perfect, as was the 3x8 Claris on my old Motobecane.
I kind of want to sell my carbon bike at this point, it's not faster - at least not with my weak ass pedaling it. I'd rather work on some random cheaper projects insteadI'll be able to find the cogs I want though, ideally I would get something like 11-34 or 36. There are some dece hills around here where pushing a 50 28 up might be a challenge.
It is nice, I do enjoy my fancy bike, but I think nine speed is fine for commuter/beer duty.[user not found] wrote: ↑Tue Sep 28, 2021 8:13 pmWell, TBH, having smaller jumps between gears is nice.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Sep 28, 2021 12:41 pm They have 11-34 for 8 and 9 speed, plus 11-36 for 9 (and 10) speed, all in basic cheapo Shimano standard parts and they work with standard current road derailleurs. R2000/R3000 are bothto use and very cheap.
The only reason to go to 10+ speeds IMO is for hydraulic disc brakes.
But in terms of pure functionality, the old stuff still works, always will, and as you said, parts are cheap and available.
I did 9 speed Ultegra/105 on my Schwinn, works great.
I am a weakling and I almost never shift only one gear on the 11 speed bike. 2 or 3 at a time is normal.[user not found] wrote:Well, TBH, having smaller jumps between gears is nice.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Sep 28, 2021 12:41 pm They have 11-34 for 8 and 9 speed, plus 11-36 for 9 (and 10) speed, all in basic cheapo Shimano standard parts and they work with standard current road derailleurs. R2000/R3000 are bothto use and very cheap.
The only reason to go to 10+ speeds IMO is for hydraulic disc brakes.
But in terms of pure functionality, the old stuff still works, always will, and as you said, parts are cheap and available.
I did 9 speed Ultegra/105 on my Schwinn, works great.
My new 105 shifts really well and easily. I too tend to move a couple of gears at once and would say 11-12 isn’t necessary but it is nice. I mean I get by fine on the 2x6 Raleigh that is like 14-26 or something. It’s kind of like more power in a car though, not needed but handy and fun.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Sep 28, 2021 9:17 pmI am a weakling and I almost never shift only one gear on the 11 speed bike. 2 or 3 at a time is normal.[user not found] wrote:
Well, TBH, having smaller jumps between gears is nice.
But in terms of pure functionality, the old stuff still works, always will, and as you said, parts are cheap and available.
I did 9 speed Ultegra/105 on my Schwinn, works great.
The R2000 Claris on my Domane shifts way better than the 105 5700 on the wife's bike.![]()
As usual my experience doesn't match that of anyone else.
Shimano road 10 speed stuff kind of felt like shit. They corrected it with 11 speed.troyguitar wrote: ↑Tue Sep 28, 2021 9:17 pmI am a weakling and I almost never shift only one gear on the 11 speed bike. 2 or 3 at a time is normal.[user not found] wrote:
Well, TBH, having smaller jumps between gears is nice.
But in terms of pure functionality, the old stuff still works, always will, and as you said, parts are cheap and available.
I did 9 speed Ultegra/105 on my Schwinn, works great.
The R2000 Claris on my Domane shifts way better than the 105 5700 on the wife's bike.![]()
As usual my experience doesn't match that of anyone else.