Yep. Boiler. the simplicity.Detroit wrote:Boiler? Looks like one kinda.Calvinball wrote:
So what the hell am I looking at?
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Home heating
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Don't need to route it outside. We just have ours running into a nearby sewer in the basement. Our hot water heater's, on the other hand...Big Brain Bradley wrote:a huge fucking mess if that T&P valve ever opens. run that bitch outside ASAPCalvinball wrote:
So what the hell am I looking at?
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...... and what do you think a circulating hot water system is?!?!wap wrote:Don't need to route it outside. We just have ours running into a nearby sewer in the basement. Our hot water heater's, on the other hand...Big Brain Bradley wrote:
a huge fucking mess if that T&P valve ever opens. run that bitch outside ASAP
rougint it to sewer is probly ok too, but i get paranoid about super hot water and PVC pipe. just do SOMETHING with it.
brain go brrrrrr
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Maybe it'll unglue all that atrocious 70's tiling.Big Brain Bradley wrote:...... and what do you think a circulating hot water system is?!?!wap wrote: Don't need to route it outside. We just have ours running into a nearby sewer in the basement. Our hot water heater's, on the other hand...
rougint it to sewer is probly ok too, but i get paranoid about super hot water and PVC pipe. just do SOMETHING with it.
breh, that isnt wood? looks like the wood end floor. which is super robust and can be refinished like 100 times over. They are very popular with the pinterest movement.Calvinball wrote:Maybe it'll unglue all that atrocious 70's tiling.Big Brain Bradley wrote:
...... and what do you think a circulating hot water system is?!?!
rougint it to sewer is probly ok too, but i get paranoid about super hot water and PVC pipe. just do SOMETHING with it.
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that shit is fly afCalvinball wrote:Maybe it'll unglue all that atrocious 70's tiling.Big Brain Bradley wrote:
...... and what do you think a circulating hot water system is?!?!
rougint it to sewer is probly ok too, but i get paranoid about super hot water and PVC pipe. just do SOMETHING with it.
brain go brrrrrr
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No it's just some kinda crap glued to the slab.dubshow wrote:breh, that isnt wood? looks like the wood end floor. which is super robust and can be refinished like 100 times over. They are very popular with the pinterest movement.Calvinball wrote:
Maybe it'll unglue all that atrocious 70's tiling.
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I meant our our domestic hot water heater, but I think you know what I meant.Big Brain Bradley wrote:...... and what do you think a circulating hot water system is?!?!wap wrote: Don't need to route it outside. We just have ours running into a nearby sewer in the basement. Our hot water heater's, on the other hand...
rougint it to sewer is probly ok too, but i get paranoid about super hot water and PVC pipe. just do SOMETHING with it.
My 110 year old house still has cast iron and clay drain pipes so hot water isn't an issue, but it shouldn't be with PVC, either. I gotta believe it can handle less-than-boiling water all day long.
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It looks like tile to me.Calvinball wrote:No it's just some kinda crap glued to the slab.dubshow wrote:
breh, that isnt wood? looks like the wood end floor. which is super robust and can be refinished like 100 times over. They are very popular with the pinterest movement.
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oh now i see.wap wrote:I meant our our domestic hot water heater, but I think you know what I meant.Big Brain Bradley wrote:
...... and what do you think a circulating hot water system is?!?!
rougint it to sewer is probly ok too, but i get paranoid about super hot water and PVC pipe. just do SOMETHING with it.
My 110 year old house still has cast iron and clay drain pipes so hot water isn't an issue, but it shouldn't be with PVC, either. I gotta believe it can handle less-than-boiling water all day long.
but yea you should route those somewhere too.....
brain go brrrrrr
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Yea, it's on the (never-ending always-growing) listBig Brain Bradley wrote:oh now i see.wap wrote: I meant our our domestic hot water heater, but I think you know what I meant.
My 110 year old house still has cast iron and clay drain pipes so hot water isn't an issue, but it shouldn't be with PVC, either. I gotta believe it can handle less-than-boiling water all day long.
but yea you should route those somewhere too.....
House shit...
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It's the flooring equivalent of wood paneling.wap wrote:It looks like tile to me.Calvinball wrote:
No it's just some kinda crap glued to the slab.
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Have you had to replace any of the cast iron pipes yet?wap wrote:I meant our our domestic hot water heater, but I think you know what I meant.Big Brain Bradley wrote:
...... and what do you think a circulating hot water system is?!?!
rougint it to sewer is probly ok too, but i get paranoid about super hot water and PVC pipe. just do SOMETHING with it.
My 110 year old house still has cast iron and clay drain pipes so hot water isn't an issue, but it shouldn't be with PVC, either. I gotta believe it can handle less-than-boiling water all day long.
My system is making an audible water draining sound...not loud enough to be a problem, but I think the pipes are constricted from rust/scale and backing up. Especially after seeing the pipes that were replaced, 2" restricted to maybe 1/8.
I'm worried that I'm going to have to start replacing the pipes, which is going to SUCK.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Yikes.Detroit wrote:Have you had to replace any of the cast iron pipes yet?wap wrote: I meant our our domestic hot water heater, but I think you know what I meant.
My 110 year old house still has cast iron and clay drain pipes so hot water isn't an issue, but it shouldn't be with PVC, either. I gotta believe it can handle less-than-boiling water all day long.
My system is making an audible water draining sound...not loud enough to be a problem, but I think the pipes are constricted from rust/scale and backing up. Especially after seeing the pipes that were replaced, 2" restricted to maybe 1/8.
I'm worried that I'm going to have to start replacing the pipes, which is going to SUCK.
No, we haven't had to replace any pipes yet but the previous owners eldest son was a plumber and he used a lot of copper when he put in our boiler.
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Dat cast iron doe? Or was that all replaced with Copper?wap wrote:Yikes.Detroit wrote: Have you had to replace any of the cast iron pipes yet?
My system is making an audible water draining sound...not loud enough to be a problem, but I think the pipes are constricted from rust/scale and backing up. Especially after seeing the pipes that were replaced, 2" restricted to maybe 1/8.
I'm worried that I'm going to have to start replacing the pipes, which is going to SUCK.
No, we haven't had to replace any pipes yet but the previous owners eldest son was a plumber and he used a lot of copper when he put in our boiler.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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If we're talking specifically about my heating system, all the pipes seem to be copper, even the ones coming out of the floor that feed the radiators. As far as water pipes to our sinks and stuff, I'm not really sure, but I do see copper in the bare parts of my basement ceiling so it looks like most water pipes are copper but my main drain pipe is iron.Detroit wrote:Dat cast iron doe? Or was that all replaced with Copper?wap wrote: Yikes.
No, we haven't had to replace any pipes yet but the previous owners eldest son was a plumber and he used a lot of copper when he put in our boiler.
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[user not found] wrote:Gas powered boiler I thinkCalvinball wrote:
Maybe it'll unglue all that atrocious 70's tiling.
Just wondering what all the bits are.
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Ok, from the top.Calvinball wrote:
So what the hell am I looking at?
Sent from the beer depository
The fat vertical pipe on the left is the flue, or exhaust. It should lead to your chimney.
The round thing on it's side near the base of the exhaust with the black wire coming out of it appears to be the electric flue damper control. It closes the flue when the boiler is off and opens it when it's running and comes up to temp. It helps to minimize heat loss up the chimney.
The vertical copper pipe on the right looks to be the return. It brings cooled water from the radiators/baseboards back to the boiler to be reheated and redistributed to the rads. If you put your hand on this it should feel cool relative to the other copper pipe I explain below.
The fat copper pipe on the left with the green shut off valve is the hot water supply going up to the rads/baseboards. If you put your hand on this pipe it should feel hot relative to the pipe I explained above.
The black cylindrical thing below the green shut off is the water pump. It pumps the water throughout the whole heating system in your house.
Below the water pump there appears to be a red shut off valve. My guess is this is opened to drain the whole system (you hook up a garden hose to the spout there and run it to a sewer). You should have this done at least every other year.
In the lower left is your gas supply line. Not sure of everything that square electrical box thing does but I'd guess that at least the thermocouple runs to it.
In the back I see another copper pipe with a shut off valve. I'm guessing it leads to an expansion tank up in the ceiling. This refills the system when you drain it and when you bleed the rads. There should be a regular valve up there somewhere that automatically lets in water when necessary.
That gayge in front should show water temp and maybe pressure.
The big rectangular gray box on the left houses the electronics and, maybe, a main shutoff. If not there, there should be a shut off switch somewhere nearby that kills the electric supply to the boiler. Mine is on the wall right behind my boiler.
To the right of the pump is the temp/pressure relief valve discussed earlier today. Get that thing routed to a sewer drain asap.
Can't 100% swear to the accuracy of all of this as I decided to open my new bottle of Makers Mark before Christmas.
That's about all I can identify. Hope it helped.
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Mostwap wrote:If we're talking specifically about my heating system, all the pipes seem to be copper, even the ones coming out of the floor that feed the radiators. As far as water pipes to our sinks and stuff, I'm not really sure, but I do see copper in the bare parts of my basement ceiling so it looks like most water pipes are copper but my main drain pipe is iron.Detroit wrote: Dat cast iron doe? Or was that all replaced with Copper?
All our heating pipes are still iron. I don't think it's a huge concern for the steam pipes, but the condensate pipes that carry water might be
I need to get my boiler guy back out here to assess. Might need to start replacing condensate pipes.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Thanks Fap!wap wrote:Ok, from the top.Calvinball wrote:
So what the hell am I looking at?
Sent from the beer depository
The fat vertical pipe on the left is the flue, or exhaust. It should lead to your chimney.
The round thing on it's side near the base of the exhaust with the black wire coming out of it appears to be the electric flue damper control. It closes the flue when the boiler is off and opens it when it's running and comes up to temp. It helps to minimize heat loss up the chimney.
The vertical copper pipe on the right looks to be the return. It brings cooled water from the radiators/baseboards back to the boiler to be reheated and redistributed to the rads. If you put your hand on this it should feel cool relative to the other copper pipe I explain below.
The fat copper pipe on the left with the green shut off valve is the hot water supply going up to the rads/baseboards. If you put your hand on this pipe it should feel hot relative to the pipe I explained above.
The black cylindrical thing below the green shut off is the water pump. It pumps the water throughout the whole heating system in your house.
Below the water pump there appears to be a red shut off valve. My guess is this is opened to drain the whole system (you hook up a garden hose to the spout there and run it to a sewer). You should have this done at least every other year.
In the lower left is your gas supply line. Not sure of everything that square electrical box thing does but I'd guess that at least the thermocouple runs to it.
In the back I see another copper pipe with a shut off valve. I'm guessing it leads to an expansion tank up in the ceiling. This refills the system when you drain it and when you bleed the rads. There should be a regular valve up there somewhere that automatically lets in water when necessary.
That gayge in front should show water temp and maybe pressure.
The big rectangular gray box on the left houses the electronics and, maybe, a main shutoff. If not there, there should be a shut off switch somewhere nearby that kills the electric supply to the boiler. Mine is on the wall right behind my boiler.
To the right of the pump is the temp/pressure relief valve discussed earlier today. Get that thing routed to a sewer drain asap.
Can't 100% swear to the accuracy of all of this as I decided to open my new bottle of Makers Mark before Christmas.
That's about all I can identify. Hope it helped.
So how the hell does the dual zone work??
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You're welcome!Calvinball wrote:Thanks Fap!wap wrote: Ok, from the top.
The fat vertical pipe on the left is the flue, or exhaust. It should lead to your chimney.
The round thing on it's side near the base of the exhaust with the black wire coming out of it appears to be the electric flue damper control. It closes the flue when the boiler is off and opens it when it's running and comes up to temp. It helps to minimize heat loss up the chimney.
The vertical copper pipe on the right looks to be the return. It brings cooled water from the radiators/baseboards back to the boiler to be reheated and redistributed to the rads. If you put your hand on this it should feel cool relative to the other copper pipe I explain below.
The fat copper pipe on the left with the green shut off valve is the hot water supply going up to the rads/baseboards. If you put your hand on this pipe it should feel hot relative to the pipe I explained above.
The black cylindrical thing below the green shut off is the water pump. It pumps the water throughout the whole heating system in your house.
Below the water pump there appears to be a red shut off valve. My guess is this is opened to drain the whole system (you hook up a garden hose to the spout there and run it to a sewer). You should have this done at least every other year.
In the lower left is your gas supply line. Not sure of everything that square electrical box thing does but I'd guess that at least the thermocouple runs to it.
In the back I see another copper pipe with a shut off valve. I'm guessing it leads to an expansion tank up in the ceiling. This refills the system when you drain it and when you bleed the rads. There should be a regular valve up there somewhere that automatically lets in water when necessary.
That gayge in front should show water temp and maybe pressure.
The big rectangular gray box on the left houses the electronics and, maybe, a main shutoff. If not there, there should be a shut off switch somewhere nearby that kills the electric supply to the boiler. Mine is on the wall right behind my boiler.
To the right of the pump is the temp/pressure relief valve discussed earlier today. Get that thing routed to a sewer drain asap.
Can't 100% swear to the accuracy of all of this as I decided to open my new bottle of Makers Mark before Christmas.
That's about all I can identify. Hope it helped.
So how the hell does the dual zone work??
The only thing I can think of is that maybe there is a split in the hot water supply line somewhere and there is an electronic valve that is controlled by the thermostats that opens and closes to let hot water up to the second zone, but I don't really know for sure.