Cheapest transport you can find for (15k miles a year) :scrooge:

[goIftdibrad]

Gonna go look at the Saturn today.

[razr390]

[troyguitar]

Gonna go look at the Saturn today.

Dat plastic fantastic needs to be replaced. Metal cars are so 1940s.

[Melon]

Gonna go look at the Saturn today.

Interior is shit, but they're neat little cars.

[max225]

Gonna go look at the Saturn today.

[troyguitar]

Drove car, it was OK. Kinda looks worse in person than in the photos, but what do you want for $1500... dunno if I'll

Plastic body obviously has no rust, but other fasteners and shit underneath looked like they might be annoying. Clutch doesn't slip at all but engagement is high, drivetrain feels solid but the shifter is really sloppy, interior is like new, mileage is super low at 108k for a 1996. Has rear drum brakes which are so I'd end up swapping those out for the optional discs. I'd probably end up with $3k in the car total over the course of the next year, after which it would cost next to nothing to drive. Worth it?

[Melon]

Drove car, it was OK. Kinda looks worse in person than in the photos, but what do you want for $1500... dunno if I'll

Plastic body obviously has no rust, but other fasteners and shit underneath looked like they might be annoying. Clutch doesn't slip at all but engagement is high, drivetrain feels solid but the shifter is really sloppy, interior is like new, mileage is super low at 108k for a 1996. Has rear drum brakes which are so I'd end up swapping those out for the optional discs. I'd probably end up with $3k in the car total over the course of the next year, after which it would cost next to nothing to drive. Worth it?

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-14043-Shi ... B000TYONCI
Replace the shifter bushing, sharpens it up a shit load.

I think they're cable clutch cars, so there might be an adjustment for the engagement.

[Desertbreh]

Drove car, it was OK. Kinda looks worse in person than in the photos, but what do you want for $1500... dunno if I'll

Plastic body obviously has no rust, but other fasteners and shit underneath looked like they might be annoying. Clutch doesn't slip at all but engagement is high, drivetrain feels solid but the shifter is really sloppy, interior is like new, mileage is super low at 108k for a 1996. Has rear drum brakes which are so I'd end up swapping those out for the optional discs. I'd probably end up with $3k in the car total over the course of the next year, after which it would cost next to nothing to drive. Worth it?

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-14043-Shi ... B000TYONCI
Replace the shifter bushing, sharpens it up a shit load.

I think they're cable clutch cars, so there might be an adjustment for the engagement.

Melonius Airboatus, homeless sportscar expert.

[max225]

Drove car, it was OK. Kinda looks worse in person than in the photos, but what do you want for $1500... dunno if I'll

Plastic body obviously has no rust, but other fasteners and shit underneath looked like they might be annoying. Clutch doesn't slip at all but engagement is high, drivetrain feels solid but the shifter is really sloppy, interior is like new, mileage is super low at 108k for a 1996. Has rear drum brakes which are so I'd end up swapping those out for the optional discs. I'd probably end up with $3k in the car total over the course of the next year, after which it would cost next to nothing to drive. Worth it?

How do you get to 3k? Are you going to switch to switch out the entire suspension with parts + wheels+tires with new shiny ones?

[troyguitar]

Drove car, it was OK. Kinda looks worse in person than in the photos, but what do you want for $1500... dunno if I'll

Plastic body obviously has no rust, but other fasteners and shit underneath looked like they might be annoying. Clutch doesn't slip at all but engagement is high, drivetrain feels solid but the shifter is really sloppy, interior is like new, mileage is super low at 108k for a 1996. Has rear drum brakes which are so I'd end up swapping those out for the optional discs. I'd probably end up with $3k in the car total over the course of the next year, after which it would cost next to nothing to drive. Worth it?

How do you get to 3k? Are you going to switch to switch out the entire suspension with parts + wheels+tires with new shiny ones?

Car 1500
KYB struts/mounts/boots/bumpstops 400
Maybe some springs 200
Front strut bar and rear sway bar 250
Misc other bushings/hardware and alignment 250
Fluids/filters/plugs/etc all around 200ish
Cheapo stereo unit 100, 200 with speakers

Plus whatever random unexpected crap is needed like a battery or who knows.

My goal wouldn't be the cheapest car possible - it's the cheapest car that I actually enjoy driving. I'd probably bring it out to :troll: the local autox events too.

[troyguitar]

Ballz. I think I'm gonna out on this. The rust underneath is giving me flashbacks to my old allroad and I don't love the car enough to deal with that crap.

I can't bring myself to drive NFG with cheap tarz/suspension/brakes or unknown drivetrain maintenance. Everything worth doing is worth doing right.

[Johnny_P]

Ballz. I think I'm gonna out on this. The rust underneath is giving me flashbacks to my old allroad and I don't love the car enough to deal with that crap.

I can't bring myself to drive NFG with cheap tarz/suspension/brakes or unknown drivetrain maintenance. Everything worth doing is worth doing right.

Yeah with cars like this you kind of just need to look at them as appliances. Get them to "good enough" status and just NFG Make sure the brake pads have meat and the tires aren't garbage, and if the dampers aren't blown then

[troyguitar]

Ballz. I think I'm gonna out on this. The rust underneath is giving me flashbacks to my old allroad and I don't love the car enough to deal with that crap.

I can't bring myself to drive NFG with cheap tarz/suspension/brakes or unknown drivetrain maintenance. Everything worth doing is worth doing right.

Yeah with cars like this you kind of just need to look at them as appliances. Get them to "good enough" status and just NFG Make sure the brake pads have meat and the tires aren't garbage, and if the dampers aren't blown then

I guess I'd be better off getting something with a good frame/body that needs an engine or some other work that I can actually do. Rust repair isn't in my playbook. Need to learn how to weld.

[goIftdibrad]

Drove car, it was OK. Kinda looks worse in person than in the photos, but what do you want for $1500... dunno if I'll

Plastic body obviously has no rust, but other fasteners and shit underneath looked like they might be annoying. Clutch doesn't slip at all but engagement is high, drivetrain feels solid but the shifter is really sloppy, interior is like new, mileage is super low at 108k for a 1996. Has rear drum brakes which are so I'd end up swapping those out for the optional discs. I'd probably end up with $3k in the car total over the course of the next year, after which it would cost next to nothing to drive. Worth it?

cheaper to keeper

[troyguitar]

Drove car, it was OK. Kinda looks worse in person than in the photos, but what do you want for $1500... dunno if I'll

Plastic body obviously has no rust, but other fasteners and shit underneath looked like they might be annoying. Clutch doesn't slip at all but engagement is high, drivetrain feels solid but the shifter is really sloppy, interior is like new, mileage is super low at 108k for a 1996. Has rear drum brakes which are so I'd end up swapping those out for the optional discs. I'd probably end up with $3k in the car total over the course of the next year, after which it would cost next to nothing to drive. Worth it?

cheaper to keeper

Most likely

I'm going to hold off for something that I really enjoy, the overall cost won't be that much higher over time anyway since cars that I like more will have non-zero resale value.

[max225]

Ballz. I think I'm gonna out on this. The rust underneath is giving me flashbacks to my old allroad and I don't love the car enough to deal with that crap.

I can't bring myself to drive NFG with cheap tarz/suspension/brakes or unknown drivetrain maintenance. Everything worth doing is worth doing right.

Yeah with cars like this you kind of just need to look at them as appliances. Get them to "good enough" status and just NFG Make sure the brake pads have meat and the tires aren't garbage, and if the dampers aren't blown then

Kind of the point of the thread... not make a cheap racekar that would be an MR2.
We're talking cheap/reliable transport... Cheapest per mile cost that doesn't leave you stranded and keeps up with traffic.

[troyguitar]

Yeah, because making something halfway decent to drive == RACEKAR!

Fuck off.

I haven't raced anything beyond karts in my life and probably never will.

[Johnny_P]

Yeah with cars like this you kind of just need to look at them as appliances. Get them to "good enough" status and just NFG Make sure the brake pads have meat and the tires aren't garbage, and if the dampers aren't blown then

Kind of the point of the thread... not make a cheap racekar that would be an MR2.
We're talking cheap/reliable transport... Cheapest per mile cost that doesn't leave you stranded and keeps up with traffic.

When buying a car, any car, remember.... Step 1: Figure out how it will class in autocross and what mods will be required to get you top PAX placement.

[max225]

Yeah, because making something halfway decent to drive == RACEKAR!

Fuck off.

I haven't raced anything beyond karts in my life and probably never will.

I thought you're racing the MR2? And the Vette? ?

[max225]

Kind of the point of the thread... not make a cheap racekar that would be an MR2.
We're talking cheap/reliable transport... Cheapest per mile cost that doesn't leave you stranded and keeps up with traffic.

When buying a car, any car, remember.... Step 1: Figure out how it will class in autocross and what mods will be required to get you top PAX placement.

Where would a place ?

[Johnny_P]

When buying a car, any car, remember.... Step 1: Figure out how it will class in autocross and what mods will be required to get you top PAX placement.

Where would a place ?

Probably upside-down.

[max225]

Where would a place ?

Probably upside-down.

Not after Konis, lowering/load-leveling, 4wd delete and Kumho Ecsta V710 all around

[Johnny_P]

Probably upside-down.

Not after Konis, lowering/load-leveling, 4wd delete and Kumho Ecsta V710 all around

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/meet-con ... tour-2017/

[troyguitar]

Yeah, because making something halfway decent to drive == RACEKAR!

Fuck off.

I haven't raced anything beyond karts in my life and probably never will.

I thought you're racing the MR2? And the Vette? ?

Autox isn't even close to racing, but it's fun and cheap.

It doesn't take much to make most cars significantly better to drive. Why not do that unless you're truly poor or a who doesn't care?

[max225]

I thought you're racing the MR2? And the Vette? ?

Autox isn't even close to racing, but it's fun and cheap.

It doesn't take much to make most cars significantly better to drive. Why not do that unless you're truly poor or a who doesn't care?

Bruh the point of this thread is if you're not you can lease an M3 arguably one of the best DD's for the street.