Transmission and diff fluids ordered. So all the major fluids will be changed in the next two weeks. Ill probably do the coolant flush once I get the reroute parts ordered.
Eventually I will get a larger radiator, and an oil cooler and the car should be set for the cooling system to go with the dual fans the car already has.
Turbro Miata. To ruin or not to ruin?
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@troyguitar can you get some tips for the miata parts your buddies recommend. Since this car shares daily time I need it to be effective but not rough as hell.
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My buddy with the 02 has essentially this setup and it's a really good compromise, especially for the money:Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2017 11:43 pm @troyguitar can you get some tips for the miata parts your buddies recommend. Since this car shares daily time I need it to be effective but not rough as hell.
https://www.flyinmiata.com/01-05-fm-v-m ... n-kit.html
Hot + setup for wheels and tires in a street car is going to be Konig or Advanti 15x8's with new Conti Sports in 205/50/15. I like these:
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... 20938.html
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -1552.html
Align the car to maximum camber up front and a degree or so negative in the rear, with a touch of toe IN at the rear and zero at the front. Adjust the shocks about 2/3 stiff up front and 1/3 in back for a baseline setup, with the rear sway bar on the softest (longest) setting and the front bar in the middle.
edit: fixed typos...
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Also: That kit is labeled 01-05 but FM suggests also running it on 99-00 cars with reasonable ride heights and/or nose heavy mods - your turbro kit plus using the car as a DD leads me to believe you'd also benefit from running the 01-05 kit on your car, so that's the exact product I'd grab.
What's not included in that kit is adjustable sway bar end links and I'm if they're needed on the NB. Multiple companies make decent options for that though so if you do need them it's not a big deal.
What's not included in that kit is adjustable sway bar end links and I'm if they're needed on the NB. Multiple companies make decent options for that though so if you do need them it's not a big deal.
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Literally the setup I was looking at already. The value seems almost too good to pass up. And from what ive ready the adjustable end links are for someone making a track car. Not necessary until youve done everything else already.troyguitar wrote: ↑Sat May 20, 2017 12:03 amMy buddy with the 02 has essentially this setup and it's a really good compromise, especially for the money:Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Fri May 19, 2017 11:43 pm @troyguitar can you get some tips for the miata parts your buddies recommend. Since this car shares daily time I need it to be effective but not rough as hell.
https://www.flyinmiata.com/01-05-fm-v-m ... n-kit.html
Hot + setup for wheels and tires in a street car is going to be Konig or Advanti 15x8's with new Conti Sports in 205/50/15. I like these:
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... 20938.html
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Pe ... -1552.html
Align the car to maximum camber up front and a degree or so negative in the rear, with a touch of toe IN at the rear and zero at the front. Adjust the shocks about 2/3 stiff up front and 1/3 in back for a baseline setup, with the rear sway bar on the softest (longest) setting and the front bar in the middle.
edit: fixed typos...
The wheels and tires will come in time once I burn off the tires on these ugly 17's.
That makes sense to me. Yes with the added weight of the turbro I think it would be wise for the nose heavy setup.troyguitar wrote: ↑Sat May 20, 2017 12:15 am Also: That kit is labeled 01-05 but FM suggests also running it on 99-00 cars with reasonable ride heights and/or nose heavy mods - your turbro kit plus using the car as a DD leads me to believe you'd also benefit from running the 01-05 kit on your car, so that's the exact product I'd grab.
What's not included in that kit is adjustable sway bar end links and I'm if they're needed on the NB. Multiple companies make decent options for that though so if you do need them it's not a big deal.
Also thank you for the quick and well thoughtout response.
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Yeah it's how good his car handles now with that setup, both on the highway and at autox. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't driven it for a few hours now myself.
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Had a few hours with some help to look over the miata. Found a few issues that need to be sorted. And was told about a few preventative items I should look into. Ive priced it all out and cant believe how cheap everything is.
1) PCV and gromet
2) spark plugs
3) valvecover gasket
4) clutch slave and master cylinder
5) oil change
6) transmission fluids
All of this is less than $300
On the GTI this would have cost me over $1,000 easily.
1) PCV and gromet
2) spark plugs
3) valvecover gasket
4) clutch slave and master cylinder
5) oil change
6) transmission fluids
All of this is less than $300
On the GTI this would have cost me over $1,000 easily.
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All parts ordered!Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Sun May 21, 2017 1:31 am Had a few hours with some help to look over the miata. Found a few issues that need to be sorted. And was told about a few preventative items I should look into. Ive priced it all out and cant believe how cheap everything is.
1) PCV and gromet
2) spark plugs
3) valvecover gasket
4) clutch slave and master cylinder
5) oil change
6) transmission fluids
All of this is less than $300
On the GTI this would have cost me over $1,000 easily.
Also bought a stainless clutch line. New fluids should be here tomorrow and this 4 day weekend should be a good time to do all the work.
The next purchases will be poly bushings and coilovers.
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make sure you do the valve cover with an inch-lbs torque wrench. I'd also replace the CAS while in there. Its very likely thats what is actually leaking.
brain go brrrrrr
you are also comparing a car that is nearly 20 years apart in design. old cars that were made in bulk are usually pretty cheap to find parts for.Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 9:59 amAll parts ordered!Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Sun May 21, 2017 1:31 am Had a few hours with some help to look over the miata. Found a few issues that need to be sorted. And was told about a few preventative items I should look into. Ive priced it all out and cant believe how cheap everything is.
1) PCV and gromet
2) spark plugs
3) valvecover gasket
4) clutch slave and master cylinder
5) oil change
6) transmission fluids
All of this is less than $300
On the GTI this would have cost me over $1,000 easily.
Also bought a stainless clutch line. New fluids should be here tomorrow and this 4 day weekend should be a good time to do all the work.
The next purchases will be poly bushings and coilovers.
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Pardon my ignorance. CAS?Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:02 am make sure you do the valve cover with an inch-lbs torque wrench. I'd also replace the CAS while in there. Its very likely thats what is actually leaking.
I've got access to all of the torque wrenches I could ever need. I did find out there are a few spots that require some high temp silicone around the cam bearing caps. So I will go buy a tube tonight from the parts store. Im sure there will be more uses in the future either with the miata or my buddies SR20 we need to build.
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One week before racewars? That will fetch quite a premium.Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:35 amPardon my ignorance. CAS?Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:02 am make sure you do the valve cover with an inch-lbs torque wrench. I'd also replace the CAS while in there. Its very likely thats what is actually leaking.
I've got access to all of the torque wrenches I could ever need. I did find out there are a few spots that require some high temp silicone around the cam bearing caps. So I will go buy a tube tonight from the parts store. Im sure there will be more uses in the future either with the miata or my buddies SR20 we need to build.
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Yes I know. As someone new to doing preventative maintenance and work on a car aside from bolting on an intake, coils, or exhaust this is new territory. I also enjoy the fact I can make these changes so easily and without wanting to light the car on fire.dubshow wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:35 amyou are also comparing a car that is nearly 20 years apart in design. old cars that were made in bulk are usually pretty cheap to find parts for.Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 9:59 am
All parts ordered!
Also bought a stainless clutch line. New fluids should be here tomorrow and this 4 day weekend should be a good time to do all the work.
The next purchases will be poly bushings and coilovers.
The GTI was a fight the whole way. I do miss that car. But I do not miss working on it.
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Lol truth. If he would ever get the money for rods, pistons, cams, and the turbo we could really get the build going. But hes too busy blowing his money on a truck payment he doesnt need.Apex wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:37 amOne week before racewars? That will fetch quite a premium.Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:35 am
Pardon my ignorance. CAS?
I've got access to all of the torque wrenches I could ever need. I did find out there are a few spots that require some high temp silicone around the cam bearing caps. So I will go buy a tube tonight from the parts store. Im sure there will be more uses in the future either with the miata or my buddies SR20 we need to build.
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Truck payment?Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:40 amLol truth. If he would ever get the money for rods, pistons, cams, and the turbo we could really get the build going. But hes too busy blowing his money on a truck payment he doesnt need.
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Yeah hes got a 94 v6 mustang forged for nitrous, a 2010 370Z 40th anniversary, 2010ish F150 FX2, and this 240 coupe.Apex wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:41 amTruck payment?Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:40 am
Lol truth. If he would ever get the money for rods, pistons, cams, and the turbo we could really get the build going. But hes too busy blowing his money on a truck payment he doesnt need.
The mustang hasnt moved in a year because it needs brake lines and a bleed, the 240 doesnt have a motor this moment. So hes got the truck and 370z that he drives. He doesnt need the truck and needs to sell it to save $400 a month. But hes too lazy to put that work in. Also the reason his mustang hasnt moved in a year.
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That's a lot of lawn ornaments...Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:47 amYeah hes got a 94 v6 mustang forged for nitrous, a 2010 370Z 40th anniversary, 2010ish F150 FX2, and this 240 coupe.
The mustang hasnt moved in a year because it needs brake lines and a bleed, the 240 doesnt have a motor this moment. So hes got the truck and 370z that he drives. He doesnt need the truck and needs to sell it to save $400 a month. But hes too lazy to put that work in. Also the reason his mustang hasnt moved in a year.
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Well the 240 lives in the garage. The mustang is collecting weeds and leaves in the backyard.Apex wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:52 amThat's a lot of lawn ornaments...Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:47 am
Yeah hes got a 94 v6 mustang forged for nitrous, a 2010 370Z 40th anniversary, 2010ish F150 FX2, and this 240 coupe.
The mustang hasnt moved in a year because it needs brake lines and a bleed, the 240 doesnt have a motor this moment. So hes got the truck and 370z that he drives. He doesnt need the truck and needs to sell it to save $400 a month. But hes too lazy to put that work in. Also the reason his mustang hasnt moved in a year.
Everything else is in the driveway. Im trying to convince him to cut the herd down some. Or at least fix it all.
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Thinning the herd might be the best decision.. Plus would free up capital to finish the other projects and get them back on the road.Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:55 amWell the 240 lives in the garage. The mustang is collecting weeds and leaves in the backyard.
Everything else is in the driveway. Im trying to convince him to cut the herd down some. Or at least fix it all.
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Cam Angle SensorBarnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:35 amPardon my ignorance. CAS?Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:02 am make sure you do the valve cover with an inch-lbs torque wrench. I'd also replace the CAS while in there. Its very likely thats what is actually leaking.
I've got access to all of the torque wrenches I could ever need. I did find out there are a few spots that require some high temp silicone around the cam bearing caps. So I will go buy a tube tonight from the parts store. Im sure there will be more uses in the future either with the miata or my buddies SR20 we need to build.
https://www.miata.net/garage/cas_oring.html
have fun.
but seriously... use the torque wrench on the valve cover. and test it first to make sure its in the ballpark, those tiny little bolts are weaksauce.
brain go brrrrrr
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Realistically he only wants to remove the F150 from the collection. But he needs to replace the gas cap and get the tailgate repaired. Hes just too lazy to do those tasks.Apex wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:55 amThinning the herd might be the best decision.. Plus would free up capital to finish the other projects and get them back on the road.Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 10:55 am
Well the 240 lives in the garage. The mustang is collecting weeds and leaves in the backyard.
Everything else is in the driveway. Im trying to convince him to cut the herd down some. Or at least fix it all.
The mustang is a family car he and his dad built when he was a kid. so it will probably sit forever and just keep falling apart. The 240 is his new project that he needs money to work on.(sell the damn truck). And then the 370z would be his daily once the truck sells. Thats a very slow project. Hes trying to keep it OEMish.
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How bad is the tailgate? The gas cap should be an easy fix.Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 11:00 amRealistically he only wants to remove the F150 from the collection. But he needs to replace the gas cap and get the tailgate repaired. Hes just too lazy to do those tasks.
The mustang is a family car he and his dad built when he was a kid. so it will probably sit forever and just keep falling apart. The 240 is his new project that he needs money to work on.(sell the damn truck). And then the 370z would be his daily once the truck sells. Thats a very slow project. Hes trying to keep it OEMish.
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It's not like you can't find a F150 at a pick-n-pull.[user not found] wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 11:45 amTailgate should be an easy fix, too, as long as it's an easy-to-find color.
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it is. I might steal it one day
brain go brrrrrr
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The gas cap is $50 and 15 minutes of our time.Apex wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 11:41 amHow bad is the tailgate? The gas cap should be an easy fix.Barnes93cb wrote: ↑Mon May 22, 2017 11:00 am
Realistically he only wants to remove the F150 from the collection. But he needs to replace the gas cap and get the tailgate repaired. Hes just too lazy to do those tasks.
The mustang is a family car he and his dad built when he was a kid. so it will probably sit forever and just keep falling apart. The 240 is his new project that he needs money to work on.(sell the damn truck). And then the 370z would be his daily once the truck sells. Thats a very slow project. Hes trying to keep it OEMish.
The tailgate probably needs replacement. A car that was being loaded onto a trailer went a bit too far. There is a crease in the bumper and a decent dent.