I put a flat board on the ground against each tire and use a laser measure between the boards, literally takes 3 minutes to set up and is way more consistent than dicking with strings/tapes.Detroit wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2017 11:41 amTroy, how'd you check toe? String?troyguitar wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2017 11:33 am
Don't need a gauge. Just kick em out as far as they'll go, then set toe back to zero.
Obligatory C5 Thread
- troyguitar
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- troyguitar
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Varies from car to car but around -2.5 degrees up front and -1.5 in the back. Remove any shims you might have behind your front upper control arms, then just rotate the lower eccentric bolts so that the arms are as far out as possible. Tighten the shit out of the front eccentrics, like 150 ft-lbs.Acid666 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2017 11:41 amWhat's the max camber you can get with the stock c5 arms? I haven't really dug into the weeds with what some good settings are for camber and toe and all that jazztroyguitar wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2017 11:33 am
Don't need a gauge. Just kick em out as far as they'll go, then set toe back to zero.
Pro-tip to keep your steering wheel centered: Do one side at a time. Adjust eccentrics on one side, put car back down and reset toe to zero (and steering wheel will then be centered again), then do the other side. Otherwise you'll most likely end up with the wheel off-center and have to adjust toe multiple times anyway to fix that.
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I need to buy a laser measure. Solid plan. Do you jack the car up to get to the tie rods, or can you so it on the ground?troyguitar wrote: ↑Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:18 pmI put a flat board on the ground against each tire and use a laser measure between the boards, literally takes 3 minutes to set up and is way more consistent than dicking with strings/tapes.
I really need to adjust my toe. I eye-balled it, and it's been mostly fine, but I'd like to dial it in better.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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All hail the tub.
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I'm getting closer and closer to making my own camber gauge setup. Did a bunch of reading last night. I might design something in Solidworks and build it. I need to get into welding. Simple small tube/angle iron shit like that would be cool to build.
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time and money. I bought min for like 50 bucks.
brain go brrrrrr
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I know. I'm also thinking of how to make it foolproof so I could make some for friends and shit. The kid across the street thinks my garage is AMAZABALLS when it's really just a bunch of stuff, an air compressor and normal tools acquired over the years. If I could show him how to set up his camber I'd be the coolest old guy on the street. I'd have to start vaping though to complete the pimpness.
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Step 0 in that process is coming up with a good solution for parking the car on a level (or at least flat) surface, that's where I ran into problems in my garage.Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:53 amI know. I'm also thinking of how to make it foolproof so I could make some for friends and shit. The kid across the street thinks my garage is AMAZABALLS when it's really just a bunch of stuff, an air compressor and normal tools acquired over the years. If I could show him how to set up his camber I'd be the coolest old guy on the street. I'd have to start vaping though to complete the pimpness.
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troyguitar wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:57 amStep 0 in that process is coming up with a good solution for parking the car on a level (or at least flat) surface, that's where I ran into problems in my garage.Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:53 am
I know. I'm also thinking of how to make it foolproof so I could make some for friends and shit. The kid across the street thinks my garage is AMAZABALLS when it's really just a bunch of stuff, an air compressor and normal tools acquired over the years. If I could show him how to set up his camber I'd be the coolest old guy on the street. I'd have to start vaping though to complete the pimpness.
not to mention, how do you adjust things with the car on the ground. It's so low.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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I can't find any specific step by steps on this. But my theory is to take a baseline and record it. Let's say I want -2.5° of camber. If it's currently sitting at -1.0° and then I raise the car with my quick jack and it's at +2.0° when lifted due to the full expansion of the suspension, then I'd lift it, make the adjustments taking the difference between -2.5 and -1.0, and add that to +2.0°. So up in the air +2.0° would be adjusted until I got it at +0.5°. Then I'd bring it back down and settle the suspension a little, maybe take it around the block and see if it's correct and sitting at -2.5°.Detroit wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:58 amtroyguitar wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 10:57 am
Step 0 in that process is coming up with a good solution for parking the car on a level (or at least flat) surface, that's where I ran into problems in my garage.
not to mention, how do you adjust things with the car on the ground. It's so low.
I could be COMPLETELY wrong about this, but I've seen plenty of pictures online of people doing these adjustments without wheels on the cars so they're obviously taking all the unsprung weight off of them. And I can't find any real help with stupid "in the weeds" questions like this.
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The geometry isn't simple enough to take meaningful measurements with the suspension anywhere but at regular loaded ride height AFAIK. DIY at home without a lift means using the guess and check method... measure car, make adjustments, drive around block to settle it, measure again. Repeat until desired result is achieved. In the case of an autox car you're usually looking for "all of the camber" anyway so it's not that big of a deal.Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:21 amI can't find any specific step by steps on this. But my theory is to take a baseline and record it. Let's say I want -2.5° of camber. If it's currently sitting at -1.0° and then I raise the car with my quick jack and it's at +2.0° when lifted due to the full expansion of the suspension, then I'd lift it, make the adjustments taking the difference between -2.5 and -1.0, and add that to +2.0°. So up in the air +2.0° would be adjusted until I got it at +0.5°. Then I'd bring it back down and settle the suspension a little, maybe take it around the block and see if it's correct and sitting at -2.5°.
I could be COMPLETELY wrong about this, but I've seen plenty of pictures online of people doing these adjustments without wheels on the cars so they're obviously taking all the unsprung weight off of them. And I can't find any real help with stupid "in the weeds" questions like this.
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Makes sense. For me, it's ok like that. It's my side bitch so I can let it sit for a while if I don't get it right and don't want to deal with it right away.troyguitar wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:36 amThe geometry isn't linear enough to take meaningful measurements with the suspension anywhere but at regular loaded ride height AFAIK. DIY at home without a lift means using the guess and check method... measure car, make adjustments, drive around block to settle it, measure again. Repeat until desired result is achieved. In the case of an autox car you're usually looking for "all of the camber" anyway so it's not that big of a deal.Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:21 am
I can't find any specific step by steps on this. But my theory is to take a baseline and record it. Let's say I want -2.5° of camber. If it's currently sitting at -1.0° and then I raise the car with my quick jack and it's at +2.0° when lifted due to the full expansion of the suspension, then I'd lift it, make the adjustments taking the difference between -2.5 and -1.0, and add that to +2.0°. So up in the air +2.0° would be adjusted until I got it at +0.5°. Then I'd bring it back down and settle the suspension a little, maybe take it around the block and see if it's correct and sitting at -2.5°.
I could be COMPLETELY wrong about this, but I've seen plenty of pictures online of people doing these adjustments without wheels on the cars so they're obviously taking all the unsprung weight off of them. And I can't find any real help with stupid "in the weeds" questions like this.
My thing is if I do this for friends I don't want to have a ton of back and forth.
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Also, if I haven't already mentioned this:
Mark your alignment bolts and keep an eye on them to make sure they aren't slipping. Torque the fuck out of them too, like 150 ft-lbs in the front and 120 or so in the back. A simple sharpie line on each one makes a quick visual check before events easy.
Mark your alignment bolts and keep an eye on them to make sure they aren't slipping. Torque the fuck out of them too, like 150 ft-lbs in the front and 120 or so in the back. A simple sharpie line on each one makes a quick visual check before events easy.
- goIftdibrad
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re: DIY alignments.
hubstands are the shit. I wish i had.
you can save yourself the 'drive the car around' step if you make lide plates. two metal plates with a dab of grease...or the low budget way.... ~10 layers of newspaper.
as to the actual adjusting, learn to get low and uncomfortable. I'd suggest loosening (not all the way dummy) all the bolts with the car in the air, make adjustments, raise for final torquing.
The first time you do it it will take longer than the shop. After that, about the same and save you money.
hubstands are the shit. I wish i had.
you can save yourself the 'drive the car around' step if you make lide plates. two metal plates with a dab of grease...or the low budget way.... ~10 layers of newspaper.
as to the actual adjusting, learn to get low and uncomfortable. I'd suggest loosening (not all the way dummy) all the bolts with the car in the air, make adjustments, raise for final torquing.
The first time you do it it will take longer than the shop. After that, about the same and save you money.
brain go brrrrrr
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LOL too much drama. Dude. 2X ziplock bags. Spray with WD40 or your favorite sex lube.Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:57 am
you can save yourself the 'drive the car around' step if you make lide plates. two metal plates with a dab of grease...or the low budget way.... ~10 layers of newspaper.
Place under tire. Turn wheels and do all your shit, remove excess and continue to fap in your garage and fill the bag with more goop.
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Acid666 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 12:02 pmLOL too much drama. Dude. 2X ziplock bags. Spray with WD40 or your favorite sex lube.Big Brain Bradley wrote: ↑Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:57 am
you can save yourself the 'drive the car around' step if you make lide plates. two metal plates with a dab of grease...or the low budget way.... ~10 layers of newspaper.
Place under tire. Turn wheels and do all your shit, remove excess and continue to fap in your garage and fill the bag with more goop.
brain go brrrrrr
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I just really need to get toe dialed in.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- troyguitar
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Now that's an off-road vehicle. Fuck 4x4
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Not a C5... but
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.