Obligatory C5 Thread

[D Griff]

Honestly, clean it up, and change the fluid every 10k miles.

You've been on the fence with keeping the car for a while now. Keep fluid in it, monitor the leak, and save your money. Diff work is not easy, and it's not cheap, it's major surgery.

I mean I'm on the fence because I like talking/thinking about new cars... the only things I'd really to are C6 or 370Z, both of which would be more expensive and kind of marginally better. Basically getting a better interior and better brakes... I think I'll just keep the C5 long time.

And on that note I think I am probably going for 4.10s. One of the shops that specializes in diffs/ring and pinion in the area that @Detroit found is willing to rebuild the diff with 4.10s for $1500. That isn't including the clutch packs, but he said they'll replace those for $150 if I want while they're in there. So $1700ish all in for the rebuilt diff with 4.10s. I called one local Chevy , they of course want me to bring the car in, but he said the left side seals replacement would be around $575. Entire diff resealed for about $1100.

This seems like a no brainer decision to me... what few reviews I find on the shop are good, I put an inquiry into the local car clubs on Facebook to see if anyone has any experience with them.

[Acid666]

Honestly, clean it up, and change the fluid every 10k miles.

You've been on the fence with keeping the car for a while now. Keep fluid in it, monitor the leak, and save your money. Diff work is not easy, and it's not cheap, it's major surgery.

I mean I'm on the fence because I like talking/thinking about new cars... the only things I'd really to are C6 or 370Z, both of which would be more expensive and kind of marginally better. Basically getting a better interior and better brakes... I think I'll just keep the C5 long time.

And on that note I think I am probably going for 4.10s. One of the shops that specializes in diffs/ring and pinion in the area that @Detroit found is willing to rebuild the diff with 4.10s for $1500. That isn't including the clutch packs, but he said they'll replace those for $150 if I want while they're in there. So $1700ish all in for the rebuilt diff with 4.10s. I called one local Chevy , they of course want me to bring the car in, but he said the left side seals replacement would be around $575. Entire diff resealed for about $1100.

This seems like a no brainer decision to me... what few reviews I find on the shop are good, I put an inquiry into the local car clubs on Facebook to see if anyone has any experience with them.

$1,100 compared to $1,700-2K for a regear and rebuild basically is a no brainer. You should definitely go that route if you're having to crack it open.

[D Griff]

I mean I'm on the fence because I like talking/thinking about new cars... the only things I'd really to are C6 or 370Z, both of which would be more expensive and kind of marginally better. Basically getting a better interior and better brakes... I think I'll just keep the C5 long time.

And on that note I think I am probably going for 4.10s. One of the shops that specializes in diffs/ring and pinion in the area that @Detroit found is willing to rebuild the diff with 4.10s for $1500. That isn't including the clutch packs, but he said they'll replace those for $150 if I want while they're in there. So $1700ish all in for the rebuilt diff with 4.10s. I called one local Chevy , they of course want me to bring the car in, but he said the left side seals replacement would be around $575. Entire diff resealed for about $1100.

This seems like a no brainer decision to me... what few reviews I find on the shop are good, I put an inquiry into the local car clubs on Facebook to see if anyone has any experience with them.

$1,100 compared to $1,700-2K for a regear and rebuild basically is a no brainer. You should definitely go that route if you're having to crack it open.

Smart airboater who is and good at car things approves. This must be the way to go.

[goIftdibrad]

That would indeed be the effect. Its just that I don't think you see many turns like that at our local events.

Well that depends where it's at. At Nola, those speeds show up a lot as they have longer sweepers. Sowela, not so much but there's a handful of 30-40 mph herk and jerk turns. Cenla's got it's share on the larger lot. The last event had me doing a bit of laying off of the throttle in a couple of spots while I listened to some of the weaker cars and they held onto the throttle the whole time. I don't expect to match that, but I'd like for that little edge in handling since I'm basically running in an open class where I can do as much as I want, and the car basically only gets autocrossed.

Acid's time and money is better spend elsewhere at this level.

I think you misunderestimate (I made that a word y0) my time. LOL. And money, this whole thing can likely be done for under $100. Lexan/Plexi is kinda pricey in this width, but I'd likely make a pair of these things and sell the other on the Corvette forums.

A post from a guy said this about his setup:

We tested on our BSP C4 and it does help. Even though you aren't going all that fast a big spoiler (ours was to the limit of SP rules) made a difference in lap times and "feel". It wasn't that we could say that on the skidpad we got .02 g better, it was just that in fast transitions the car was just "planted" and it was more confidence inspiring.

Think about it this way. The faster you go the more a rear drive car is prone to oversteer. The reason is that you have to keep increasing the amount of thrust from the tires at higher speed and that takes away from their lateral capability. A big spoiler can negate that and over about 30 or 40 mph (speeds you are often at in autocross) it will help plant the back end, and you definitely can feel it.

A big spoiler lets you set the car up a bit looser at low speeds, and the car stays planted as you go faster.

I've heard the comment from folks using huge wings and downforce in autocross that you don't so much notice that it's there, you just seem to go faster with it. That was our experience too.

Without the spoiler we had to be very careful in fast transitions, with it we could just horse the car through those and it just went were it was pointed, the front end went and the back end followed, no matter how aggressive you were.

Lastly, a comment about "smoothness".. Everybody will watch you from the outside and if you are hooked up and flying, will comment on how smooth your driving looked. They aren't inside the car and aren't seeing that in some cases you are absolutely reefing on the wheel to get the car where you want to go. If the car is hooked, and isn't loose, you will be fast and look smooth. If it's loose you won't be fast or look smooth, so that's why keeping the back end planted is so important.

alright, welp good luck! sounds like I may have been too pessimistic.

[Acid666]

The more I read on forums where guys are driving high torque cars where the rear end has a tendency to slip out under them at high speed turns, the more people that run these spoilers feel a difference with being able to be smoother and more planted around 40 mph and above. In my car, I find myself letting off of the throttle at times in turns because the rear comes barking out. I'm thinking that little bit of extra force will help me keep on the throttle and keep it smooth.
All the feedback I'm reading says that it leads to more rear end oversteer so it's more of a point and shoot feeling where it's a little more planted and confident in higher speed elements.

That would indeed be the effect. Its just that I don't think you see many turns like that at our local events.

Keep in mind, this is just on paper for now. Plus I'm bored and need a project. I really want to find out what kind of downforce these produce at 30+ mph but I don't expect much data to be out since everyone hand makes these. I saw a guy on Facebook advertising the one I posted for $500 and I was like, fuck that, I can #airboat that. Once I researched it I read more and more people at the national level love the extra bite it puts down on the rear end, especially for autocross.

[D Griff]

I don't have experience to back this up really, but most of the best dudes at our local autox chapter which is really large, 150-200 cars or more per event, have aero on their cars. I'm sure it does make a difference. We do have faster courses from the sounds of things .

[D Griff]

Plot thickens, another can do the left side seal and axle seal for tree fiddy. Presumably if I wanted the other side done it would be twice that (probably no point).

Tree fiddy versus $1500-2k is a pretty big difference. I shall need to think on this one. I'll be getting some extra monies from work soon, more on that later, but it should more than cover this either way... but dang, could probably use that to get fully debt free as well...

To adult, or to not adult?

[goIftdibrad]

That would indeed be the effect. Its just that I don't think you see many turns like that at our local events.

Keep in mind, this is just on paper for now. Plus I'm bored and need a project. I really want to find out what kind of downforce these produce at 30+ mph but I don't expect much data to be out since everyone hand makes these. I saw a guy on Facebook advertising the one I posted for $500 and I was like, fuck that, I can #airboat that. Once I researched it I read more and more people at the national level love the extra bite it puts down on the rear end, especially for autocross.

I could tell you how to come up with a way to measure on the cheap, but the corvette's leaf spring will make that a mothereffer to backout download. You basicly measure deflection and use the math to back out the force with and without..

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Plot thickens, another can do the left side seal and axle seal for tree fiddy. Presumably if I wanted the other side done it would be twice that (probably no point).

Tree fiddy versus $1500-2k is a pretty big difference. I shall need to think on this one. I'll be getting some extra monies from work soon, more on that later, but it should more than cover this either way... but dang, could probably use that to get fully debt free as well...

To adult, or to not adult?

Oh, interesting. They must be able to get the seal changed without dropping the rear end, which is

Though, if you really want to just it and make sure it's full of fluid. FreeFiddy.

[goIftdibrad]

Plot thickens, another can do the left side seal and axle seal for tree fiddy. Presumably if I wanted the other side done it would be twice that (probably no point).

Tree fiddy versus $1500-2k is a pretty big difference. I shall need to think on this one. I'll be getting some extra monies from work soon, more on that later, but it should more than cover this either way... but dang, could probably use that to get fully debt free as well...

To adult, or to not adult?

a debt of 2k should be able to be paid off pretty quickly.

4.10's change the car.

[D Griff]

Plot thickens, another can do the left side seal and axle seal for tree fiddy. Presumably if I wanted the other side done it would be twice that (probably no point).

Tree fiddy versus $1500-2k is a pretty big difference. I shall need to think on this one. I'll be getting some extra monies from work soon, more on that later, but it should more than cover this either way... but dang, could probably use that to get fully debt free as well...

To adult, or to not adult?

a debt of 2k should be able to be paid off pretty quickly.

4.10's change the car.

I have about $5-6k left on student loans. Could really pay off any time but don't want to deplete my funds too much. I have also been making more than the 4-6% interest I pay on my loans more recently so , but it would be nice to just finish them once and for all. This would just push it back a couple of months though, no big deal really. I'm leaning towards right now.

[D Griff]

Plot thickens, another can do the left side seal and axle seal for tree fiddy. Presumably if I wanted the other side done it would be twice that (probably no point).

Tree fiddy versus $1500-2k is a pretty big difference. I shall need to think on this one. I'll be getting some extra monies from work soon, more on that later, but it should more than cover this either way... but dang, could probably use that to get fully debt free as well...

To adult, or to not adult?

Oh, interesting. They must be able to get the seal changed without dropping the rear end, which is

Though, if you really want to just it and make sure it's full of fluid. FreeFiddy.

Meh... I guess I'm just not as cheap as I once was, but the idea of throwing fluid all over town and over the bottom of my car is . Tree fiddy isn't all that much to avoid all of that.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Oh, interesting. They must be able to get the seal changed without dropping the rear end, which is

Though, if you really want to just it and make sure it's full of fluid. FreeFiddy.

Meh... I guess I'm just not as cheap as I once was, but the idea of throwing fluid all over town and over the bottom of my car is . Tree fiddy isn't all that much to avoid all of that.

As long as you're not going to do gears. If you do gears (yes, you should) then all the labor is duplicated...so you're "flushing" that tree fiddy away.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

The nice thing about gears is they amplify any power mods you do in the future. My car's a bit of a high winder now with the heads/cam, and with the gears, I can spend more time in the power band for

Now, if you want to do a blower or turbros or something, you're probably better off with stock gears. I think at 440whp, I'm at the limit of HP for 4.10 gears. Traction is a serious issue for me.

[D Griff]

Meh... I guess I'm just not as cheap as I once was, but the idea of throwing fluid all over town and over the bottom of my car is . Tree fiddy isn't all that much to avoid all of that.

As long as you're not going to do gears. If you do gears (yes, you should) then all the labor is duplicated...so you're "flushing" that tree fiddy away.

Agreed, it's one or the other, leaning towards . It's not really a ton of money and it'll keep me interested in the car and make it more fun.

What I'm really hoping to do is keep the C5 a while longer and eventually add a JL WranGAYler, but we'll see about that, depends on many things.

[D Griff]

The nice thing about gears is they amplify any power mods you do in the future. My car's a bit of a high winder now with the heads/cam, and with the gears, I can spend more time in the power band for

Now, if you want to do a blower or turbros or something, you're probably better off with stock gears. I think at 440whp, I'm at the limit of HP for 4.10 gears. Traction is a serious issue for me.

I'm not really interested in a blower... honestly the stock powah is fine, I could see maybe doing a similar build to yours one day if I had extra money, time and a second car, but otherwise this will be the last drive train related mod for a long time. After this if anything, I'd likely go for wheels/tires and maybe seats. Then maybe better shocks.

[Desertbreh]

The nice thing about gears is they amplify any power mods you do in the future. My car's a bit of a high winder now with the heads/cam, and with the gears, I can spend more time in the power band for

Now, if you want to do a blower or turbros or something, you're probably better off with stock gears. I think at 440whp, I'm at the limit of HP for 4.10 gears. Traction is a serious issue for me.

I'm not really interested in a blower... honestly the stock powah is fine, I could see maybe doing a similar build to yours one day if I had extra money, time and a second car, but otherwise this will be the last drive train related mod for a long time. After this if anything, I'd likely go for wheels/tires and maybe seats. Then maybe better shocks.

You can have my C6GS shocks with 12K on them for shipping if you want them.

[D Griff]

I'm not really interested in a blower... honestly the stock powah is fine, I could see maybe doing a similar build to yours one day if I had extra money, time and a second car, but otherwise this will be the last drive train related mod for a long time. After this if anything, I'd likely go for wheels/tires and maybe seats. Then maybe better shocks.

You can have my C6GS shocks with 12K on them for shipping if you want them.

Much appreciated, but I actually already have C6Z06 (probably the same?) shocks currently. I should've just spent more when I did that and gotten something nice.

[Desertbreh]

You can have my C6GS shocks with 12K on them for shipping if you want them.

Much appreciated, but I actually already have C6Z06 (probably the same?) shocks currently. I should've just spent more when I did that and gotten something nice.

I'm happy with the DRM Bilsteins I bought and they were only $400ish.

[troyguitar]

The more I read on forums where guys are driving high torque cars where the rear end has a tendency to slip out under them at high speed turns, the more people that run these spoilers feel a difference with being able to be smoother and more planted around 40 mph and above. In my car, I find myself letting off of the throttle at times in turns because the rear comes barking out. I'm thinking that little bit of extra force will help me keep on the throttle and keep it smooth.
All the feedback I'm reading says that it leads to more rear end oversteer so it's more of a point and shoot feeling where it's a little more planted and confident in higher speed elements.

That would indeed be the effect. Its just that I don't think you see many turns like that at our local events.

What the spoiler allows you to do is set the car up to be really loose in the super low speed stuff without it being out of control at 45+ mph... But yes, step zero is square 18 inch wheels with 315 rival-s and seat time.

[Acid666]

That would indeed be the effect. Its just that I don't think you see many turns like that at our local events.

What the spoiler allows you to do is set the car up to be really loose in the super low speed stuff without it being out of control at 45+ mph... But yes, step zero is square 18 inch wheels with 315 rival-s and seat time.

My seat time has been pretty productive lately. Square setup and 315s coming next season for sure. I'm really enjoying the driving now that I think I've found a good sweet spot for the sway and konis. But the rear does kick out a little bit here and there. I've ridden with on some of his runs and he'll buck the rear loose and still mash it, but I feel with my car there's more of a chance that the rear will KEEP on sliding and I'll be doing donuts on the track. Could just be the difference between actually driving and spectating.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

The nice thing about gears is they amplify any power mods you do in the future. My car's a bit of a high winder now with the heads/cam, and with the gears, I can spend more time in the power band for

Now, if you want to do a blower or turbros or something, you're probably better off with stock gears. I think at 440whp, I'm at the limit of HP for 4.10 gears. Traction is a serious issue for me.

I'm not really interested in a blower... honestly the stock powah is fine, I could see maybe doing a similar build to yours one day if I had extra money, time and a second car, but otherwise this will be the last drive train related mod for a long time. After this if anything, I'd likely go for wheels/tires and maybe seats. Then maybe better shocks.

Makes sense. I love the way my car turned out. I think it's the ultimate way to build a C5. It doesn't have dick swinging WHP like it would with a blower, but it's a blast to drive none the less. A lot of character.

[Melon]

If you're keeping the car.

But figure, with labor, it's probably going to be well over $2,500.00

[D Griff]

If you're keeping the car.

But figure, with labor, it's probably going to be well over $2,500.00

I got's teh quote for $1500

[Melon]

If you're keeping the car.

But figure, with labor, it's probably going to be well over $2,500.00

I got's teh quote for $1500

Labor to remove the diff and rebuild with 4.10's ?