Obligatory C5 Thread

[D Griff]

So I did some more research and it looks like there are two common left side leaks, one being the axle seal and one the gasket that's part of the diff enclosure/plate that Detroit was talking about. Any guesses on which I have going on? It was so dirty that it's hard to tell. I cleaned it off with brake cleaner and will check it again soon to try to determine where it's leaking from.



The oil droplet you can see here is on the bottom of the plate, which leads me to believe it's probably that but being that it's the lowest point, the drop could really have come from anywhere.



I did check the fluid level and it's not much lower than spec, but I'll order some fluid to top it off/have on hand. I thought I had some but I had the Redline MT90, not 75W-90, which is what it needs (GL4 versus GL5).

I will call some tomorrow and try to get a price on fixing the diff gasket although they'll probably all tell me to "come on in for an ass raping and test drive"

I found some other performance shops that are a little further from me, but I will call them too and see what the gearz swap would be.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Yea, I'm 99% convinced that's "leaky butt"...diff needs to come out and seals replaced.

Though, as long as there's oil in the diff and it's not leaking THAT bad, you can just keep driving it. It'll make a mess under there but

[D Griff]

Yea, I'm 99% convinced that's "leaky butt"...diff needs to come out and seals replaced.

Though, as long as there's oil in the diff and it's not leaking THAT bad, you can just keep driving it. It'll make a mess under there but

Thanks,

Words added above but I suspect you're right.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

There has to be some vette shops in the area. I'd also look around for some "ring and pinion" shops. There's a bunch around me.

[D Griff]

There has to be some vette shops in the area. I'd also look around for some "ring and pinion" shops. There's a bunch around me.

Good idea, I'll check all of that out.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

http://drivelineservicemonroe.com/

Bit of a drive but might be worth it:
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/

At least call these guys and see what they say.

[D Griff]

http://drivelineservicemonroe.com/

Bit of a drive but might be worth it:
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/

At least call these guys and see what they say.

Thanks man. Monroe is actually pretty close.

This also could be the problem and seems like a home fix would be doable. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5 ... nkman.html

[ChrisoftheNorth]

http://drivelineservicemonroe.com/

Bit of a drive but might be worth it:
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/

At least call these guys and see what they say.

Thanks man. Monroe is actually pretty close.

This also could be the problem and seems like a home fix would be doable. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5 ... nkman.html

Without photos, it's hard to visualize what he's talking about. IIRC, the top of the diff seal is up in the car, which would be really tough to get to with the diff still in. I suppose it's doable, but I've also heard the seal is a bit of bitch to install correctly (as he indicated). That's why I'm kind of glad I left the job to a professional and have no issues since.

I guess it would just cost you time to try it. The seals are cheap. Worst case, you're in the same position you're in now.

[D Griff]

Thanks man. Monroe is actually pretty close.

This also could be the problem and seems like a home fix would be doable. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5 ... nkman.html

Without photos, it's hard to visualize what he's talking about. IIRC, the top of the diff seal is up in the car, which would be really tough to get to with the diff still in. I suppose it's doable, but I've also heard the seal is a bit of bitch to install correctly (as he indicated). That's why I'm kind of glad I left the job to a professional and have no issues since.

I guess it would just cost you time to try it. The seals are cheap. Worst case, you're in the same position you're in now.

Well, from what I'm finding, many leaks are derived from the axle seal, which seems doable to replace. Many are also the seals of the diff itself's metalwork, which as you're indicating requires dropping the diff... notgonnahappen in my parking spot.

I will chat with some places later today, if I can find somewhere who can fix it/do the 4.10s for around $2k, I would be all over that I think. If not, hopefully somewhere can fix it under $500. Guys on CF were saying did it for $200-400, but that seems awfully low to me.

[goIftdibrad]

Without photos, it's hard to visualize what he's talking about. IIRC, the top of the diff seal is up in the car, which would be really tough to get to with the diff still in. I suppose it's doable, but I've also heard the seal is a bit of bitch to install correctly (as he indicated). That's why I'm kind of glad I left the job to a professional and have no issues since.

I guess it would just cost you time to try it. The seals are cheap. Worst case, you're in the same position you're in now.

Well, from what I'm finding, many leaks are derived from the axle seal, which seems doable to replace. Many are also the seals of the diff itself's metalwork, which as you're indicating requires dropping the diff... notgonnahappen in my parking spot.

I will chat with some places later today, if I can find somewhere who can fix it/do the 4.10s for around $2k, I would be all over that I think. If not, hopefully somewhere can fix it under $500. Guys on CF were saying did it for $200-400, but that seems awfully low to me.

knowing the labor involved, 2k for gears aint gonna happen. You have to take the whole rear end of the car apart. Its not trivial.

[NeonJonny]

Without photos, it's hard to visualize what he's talking about. IIRC, the top of the diff seal is up in the car, which would be really tough to get to with the diff still in. I suppose it's doable, but I've also heard the seal is a bit of bitch to install correctly (as he indicated). That's why I'm kind of glad I left the job to a professional and have no issues since.

I guess it would just cost you time to try it. The seals are cheap. Worst case, you're in the same position you're in now.

Well, from what I'm finding, many leaks are derived from the axle seal, which seems doable to replace. Many are also the seals of the diff itself's metalwork, which as you're indicating requires dropping the diff... notgonnahappen in my parking spot.

I will chat with some places later today, if I can find somewhere who can fix it/do the 4.10s for around $2k, I would be all over that I think. If not, hopefully somewhere can fix it under $500. Guys on CF were saying did it for $200-400, but that seems awfully low to me.

Does anyone do the black rtv trick with the axle seals? Old grassroots trick for axle seals.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Without photos, it's hard to visualize what he's talking about. IIRC, the top of the diff seal is up in the car, which would be really tough to get to with the diff still in. I suppose it's doable, but I've also heard the seal is a bit of bitch to install correctly (as he indicated). That's why I'm kind of glad I left the job to a professional and have no issues since.

I guess it would just cost you time to try it. The seals are cheap. Worst case, you're in the same position you're in now.

Well, from what I'm finding, many leaks are derived from the axle seal, which seems doable to replace. Many are also the seals of the diff itself's metalwork, which as you're indicating requires dropping the diff... notgonnahappen in my parking spot.

I will chat with some places later today, if I can find somewhere who can fix it/do the 4.10s for around $2k, I would be all over that I think. If not, hopefully somewhere can fix it under $500. Guys on CF were saying did it for $200-400, but that seems awfully low to me.

It is most likely the large plate. That's the common issue. Considering how far the gunk goes, I suspect that's what you're dealing with.

It's a labor intensive job. You might be able to find someone that'll replace just the seals for under $1k...but to do gears, it'll be pushing $3k easy.

[max225]

I had mine resealed for $700+I provided parts ($100) and that was at california labor rates... This was a few years back

[Melon]

Honestly, clean it up, and change the fluid every 10k miles.

You've been on the fence with keeping the car for a while now. Keep fluid in it, monitor the leak, and save your money. Diff work is not easy, and it's not cheap, it's major surgery.

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Honestly, clean it up, and change the fluid every 10k miles.

You've been on the fence with keeping the car for a while now. Keep fluid in it, monitor the leak, and save your money. Diff work is not easy, and it's not cheap, it's major surgery.

[Acid666]

Next airboat thing I'm building is this.


Pricing out sheets of 3/16" Lexan and plexi. Trying to find access to a small press brake so I can make those brackets and then powdercoat them.
Need some adjustable turnbuckles, or 2 sets to lay it flat while I'm on the highway.
This guy is selling them online for $500. Once I saw how he mounted it I looked at mine and figured out how to make it without having to drill any holes or cut through the body. Just need a press or be able to bash some plate/sheet metal down with my vice and fold to taste.

[goIftdibrad]

Next airboat thing I'm building is this.


Pricing out sheets of 3/16" Lexan and plexi. Trying to find access to a small press brake so I can make those brackets and then powdercoat them.
Need some adjustable turnbuckles, or 2 sets to lay it flat while I'm on the highway.
This guy is selling them online for $500. Once I saw how he mounted it I looked at mine and figured out how to make it without having to drill any holes or cut through the body. Just need a press or be able to bash some plate/sheet metal down with my vice and fold to taste.

Repeat slowly after me:
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "

[ChrisoftheNorth]

Next airboat thing I'm building is this.


Pricing out sheets of 3/16" Lexan and plexi. Trying to find access to a small press brake so I can make those brackets and then powdercoat them.
Need some adjustable turnbuckles, or 2 sets to lay it flat while I'm on the highway.
This guy is selling them online for $500. Once I saw how he mounted it I looked at mine and figured out how to make it without having to drill any holes or cut through the body. Just need a press or be able to bash some plate/sheet metal down with my vice and fold to taste.

Repeat slowly after me:
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "

Do you even scene points? Rackor? etc?

[goIftdibrad]

Repeat slowly after me:
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "

Do you even scene points? Rackor? etc?

no.

[Melon]

Next airboat thing I'm building is this.


Pricing out sheets of 3/16" Lexan and plexi. Trying to find access to a small press brake so I can make those brackets and then powdercoat them.
Need some adjustable turnbuckles, or 2 sets to lay it flat while I'm on the highway.
This guy is selling them online for $500. Once I saw how he mounted it I looked at mine and figured out how to make it without having to drill any holes or cut through the body. Just need a press or be able to bash some plate/sheet metal down with my vice and fold to taste.

[troyguitar]

Next airboat thing I'm building is this.


Pricing out sheets of 3/16" Lexan and plexi. Trying to find access to a small press brake so I can make those brackets and then powdercoat them.
Need some adjustable turnbuckles, or 2 sets to lay it flat while I'm on the highway.
This guy is selling them online for $500. Once I saw how he mounted it I looked at mine and figured out how to make it without having to drill any holes or cut through the body. Just need a press or be able to bash some plate/sheet metal down with my vice and fold to taste.

Repeat slowly after me:
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "

Wrong

[goIftdibrad]

Repeat slowly after me:
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "
"Aero on street oriented autocross cars is useless. "

Wrong

sure when you get in the SP classes it can make some difference but you simply are not adding enough download on a street tire class car (that's already a barge by racekar standards)

Acid's time and money is better spend elsewhere at this level.

[Acid666]

The more I read on forums where guys are driving high torque cars where the rear end has a tendency to slip out under them at high speed turns, the more people that run these spoilers feel a difference with being able to be smoother and more planted around 40 mph and above. In my car, I find myself letting off of the throttle at times in turns because the rear comes barking out. I'm thinking that little bit of extra force will help me keep on the throttle and keep it smooth.
All the feedback I'm reading says that it leads to more rear end oversteer so it's more of a point and shoot feeling where it's a little more planted and confident in higher speed elements.

[goIftdibrad]

The more I read on forums where guys are driving high torque cars where the rear end has a tendency to slip out under them at high speed turns, the more people that run these spoilers feel a difference with being able to be smoother and more planted around 40 mph and above. In my car, I find myself letting off of the throttle at times in turns because the rear comes barking out. I'm thinking that little bit of extra force will help me keep on the throttle and keep it smooth.
All the feedback I'm reading says that it leads to more rear end oversteer so it's more of a point and shoot feeling where it's a little more planted and confident in higher speed elements.

That would indeed be the effect. Its just that I don't think you see many turns like that at our local events.

[Acid666]

The more I read on forums where guys are driving high torque cars where the rear end has a tendency to slip out under them at high speed turns, the more people that run these spoilers feel a difference with being able to be smoother and more planted around 40 mph and above. In my car, I find myself letting off of the throttle at times in turns because the rear comes barking out. I'm thinking that little bit of extra force will help me keep on the throttle and keep it smooth.
All the feedback I'm reading says that it leads to more rear end oversteer so it's more of a point and shoot feeling where it's a little more planted and confident in higher speed elements.

That would indeed be the effect. Its just that I don't think you see many turns like that at our local events.

Well that depends where it's at. At Nola, those speeds show up a lot as they have longer sweepers. Sowela, not so much but there's a handful of 30-40 mph herk and jerk turns. Cenla's got it's share on the larger lot. The last event had me doing a bit of laying off of the throttle in a couple of spots while I listened to some of the weaker cars and they held onto the throttle the whole time. I don't expect to match that, but I'd like for that little edge in handling since I'm basically running in an open class where I can do as much as I want, and the car basically only gets autocrossed.

Acid's time and money is better spend elsewhere at this level.

I think you misunderestimate (I made that a word y0) my time. LOL. And money, this whole thing can likely be done for under $100. Lexan/Plexi is kinda pricey in this width, but I'd likely make a pair of these things and sell the other on the Corvette forums.

A post from a guy said this about his setup:

We tested on our BSP C4 and it does help. Even though you aren't going all that fast a big spoiler (ours was to the limit of SP rules) made a difference in lap times and "feel". It wasn't that we could say that on the skidpad we got .02 g better, it was just that in fast transitions the car was just "planted" and it was more confidence inspiring.

Think about it this way. The faster you go the more a rear drive car is prone to oversteer. The reason is that you have to keep increasing the amount of thrust from the tires at higher speed and that takes away from their lateral capability. A big spoiler can negate that and over about 30 or 40 mph (speeds you are often at in autocross) it will help plant the back end, and you definitely can feel it.

A big spoiler lets you set the car up a bit looser at low speeds, and the car stays planted as you go faster.

I've heard the comment from folks using huge wings and downforce in autocross that you don't so much notice that it's there, you just seem to go faster with it. That was our experience too.

Without the spoiler we had to be very careful in fast transitions, with it we could just horse the car through those and it just went were it was pointed, the front end went and the back end followed, no matter how aggressive you were.

Lastly, a comment about "smoothness".. Everybody will watch you from the outside and if you are hooked up and flying, will comment on how smooth your driving looked. They aren't inside the car and aren't seeing that in some cases you are absolutely reefing on the wheel to get the car where you want to go. If the car is hooked, and isn't loose, you will be fast and look smooth. If it's loose you won't be fast or look smooth, so that's why keeping the back end planted is so important.