Obligatory C5 Thread

Brothers of brub and brap, this is your safe space.
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Melon
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troyguitar wrote: Mon Nov 20, 2017 1:12 pm
Desertbreh wrote: Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:51 pm It was 60 degrees this morning. The LS3 is making considerably more power than in the summer. Getting the ass end moving around in second gear at 50 mph even with traction control on and still very fresh 325 PSS's.
Your tarz also have noticeably less grip when they're cold and on cold pavement. :science:
:dat:

More brubs, less rubs.
4zilch wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am I'm a fucking failure.
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troyguitar wrote: Mon Nov 20, 2017 1:12 pm
Desertbreh wrote: Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:51 pm It was 60 degrees this morning. The LS3 is making considerably more power than in the summer. Getting the ass end moving around in second gear at 50 mph even with traction control on and still very fresh 325 PSS's.
Your tarz also have noticeably less grip when they're cold and on cold pavement. :science:
Excellent point and the more likely contributor to loss o' traction. Did not think of that because :fullretard:
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Johnny_P wrote: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
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Well, I was able to get new bolts in for my exhaust hanger, I actually bought the fish wires from Curt to do it as it's just way easier and prevents losing the bolts in the frame. I was able to extract the factory two bolt U-shaped thing, but I couldn't get it back in, just used regular bolts. Pretty :fuckyeah: that it isn't just flying around back there. If I hadn't installed the hitch I would've had to drill a new access hole, fortunately, dropping the hitch off is nice and easy.

I also changed the spark plugs and wires, sometimes I get a misfire code. I got all of them done but couldn't extract plug #7, driver's side closest to the fire wall. That one is a bit of a bitch and I'll have to revisit it later, as it was getting dark. The other seven were easy, not sure why everyone on CF bitches about the job.
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I had a harder time getting the wires off than dealing with the plugs.
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D Griff wrote: Sun Nov 26, 2017 9:57 am I also changed the spark plugs and wires, sometimes I get a misfire code. I got all of them done but couldn't extract plug #7, driver's side closest to the fire wall. That one is a bit of a bitch and I'll have to revisit it later, as it was getting dark. The other seven were easy, not sure why everyone on CF bitches about the job.

troyguitar wrote: Sun Nov 26, 2017 11:59 am I had a harder time getting the wires off than dealing with the plugs.
Y'all are some skinny armed bitches.

#7 was always a struggle, but I was able to get it out, even with my Popeye forearms.
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$15 at Harbor Freight gets you these hose pullers. I got a lot more leverage on my spark plugs with these.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-l ... 37909.html
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Acid666 wrote:$15 at Harbor Freight gets you these hose pullers. I got a lot more leverage on my spark plugs with these.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-l ... 37909.html
I'd buy those if I had to do it again.
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D Griff
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Acid666 wrote: Sun Nov 26, 2017 12:26 pm $15 at Harbor Freight gets you these hose pullers. I got a lot more leverage on my spark plugs with these.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-l ... 37909.html
I got https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1 which was helpful.

It wasn't a strength problem getting #7,just couldn't get anything in there. It was getting dark and I had had a couple brews at that point, I'll revisit it next time I have a chance.
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D Griff wrote: Sun Nov 26, 2017 12:44 pm
Acid666 wrote: Sun Nov 26, 2017 12:26 pm $15 at Harbor Freight gets you these hose pullers. I got a lot more leverage on my spark plugs with these.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-l ... 37909.html
I got https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1 which was helpful.

It wasn't a strength problem getting #7,just couldn't get anything in there. It was getting dark and I had had a couple brews at that point, I'll revisit it next time I have a chance.
#7 nearly defeated me, the angle was throwing me off.
4zilch wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am I'm a fucking failure.
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So I got tired of dealing with this damn pop up headlight motor breaking the seal after replacing the gear. This is the 3rd or 4th time I've had to remove the damn headlight assembly to fix this. Somehow, the wind at high speeds pushes the headlight (when it's up), and turns that force into an axial load, and then somehow puts that force into the cap holding it together. First time I reassembled it, I used the epoxy included with the brass gear replacement. That came off. Also, I scratched up the surface so it had more to bite into as opposed to basically gluing a smooth surface to a smooth surface. 2nd time, I cleaned the epoxy off and used JB Weld and also coated it past the edges so it drooped past the seal and gave it more on the outside to grab.
Then that came off.


Now, I JB Welded it again and cut a piece of 1/8" steel plate and sandwiched that bitch on the top. Fucker ain't going anywhere now. I R DUN WIT DIS BICH
Definitely ain't pretty, but I'm tired of removing this damn thing.
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Also managed to jam this screwdriver about *THIS* far into my thumb. The right side of my thumb is still numb but getting feeling back.
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Dat thumb... :gag: :nope:
:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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D Griff
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:bruh:

I told you from the beginning to just send it to the eBay rebuilder bro... mine's been good for a few years now. It broke when I did it myself with the kit too.
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D Griff wrote: Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:25 pm :bruh:

I told you from the beginning to just send it to the eBay rebuilder bro... mine's been good for a few years now. It broke when I did it myself with the kit too.
Yeah I know, but that :waxer:
It makes zero sense that it breaks loose the way it does. But hey, metal plate... Problem solved. Unless some 4th dimension shit happens.
When I break out the drivers side assembly to replace that gear I'll just plate it up from the start and not even worry about it again. If I can find the other gear. I know I put it somewhere in my garage.
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D Griff wrote: Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:25 pm :bruh:

I told you from the beginning to just send it to the eBay rebuilder bro... mine's been good for a few years now. It broke when I did it myself with the kit too.
If Acid doesn't fabricate a solution with his awesome set of tools he gets booted from the Airboat Country Club.
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
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Acid666
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Like I told :melon:, it's fucking epoxy, what could go wrong?
First failure I assumed the shit the dude sent with the gears was some weak ass shit.
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Then when I used JB Weld and it still broke, I figured it's got some weirddddd forces of momentum that are forcing the loads in unnatural ways but I'd give it a 2nd shot. Nopers. Metal plate dat bish.

My latest airboat fix is the window motor on the back drivers side door of the truck has been dead for over a year and the glass slides down, so I've got a piece of wood shoved inside the door shell to prop it up. Manages to loosen itself up once a month or so, so I pull the door panel off and readjust it.
AIRBOATERZ UNITTTEEEEEEEEE!!!! *thrusts He-Man sword into air*
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D Griff
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Acid666 wrote: Mon Nov 27, 2017 11:12 pm
D Griff wrote: Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:25 pm :bruh:

I told you from the beginning to just send it to the eBay rebuilder bro... mine's been good for a few years now. It broke when I did it myself with the kit too.
Yeah I know, but that :waxer:
It makes zero sense that it breaks loose the way it does. But hey, metal plate... Problem solved. Unless some 4th dimension shit happens.
When I break out the drivers side assembly to replace that gear I'll just plate it up from the start and not even worry about it again. If I can find the other gear. I know I put it somewhere in my garage.
:word:

I went through the same process... did it twice and finally sent it off, it's been fine for a couple years now. If I ever find the other gear I bought, I'll send it to you if you want. Fuck trying that again, I'm a city boy with no fabrication skillz.
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Melon
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Lol, window regulators aren't that hard to change out breh.

Get one from a junkyard for $30, done and done.
4zilch wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am I'm a fucking failure.
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Acid666
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Melon wrote: Wed Nov 29, 2017 8:55 am Lol, window regulators aren't that hard to change out breh.

Get one from a junkyard for $30, done and done.
I pulled the whole thing out and tried to realign the cables but it just wasn't happening. Said fuck all that jazz, and just threw it back in with the wood. At the time, I didn't have time to deal with it.
I'll be ordering a slew of parts from rockauto soon and that'll be one of them. I also need a fuel sending unit so I can tell how much gas I have, and since I'm down there I'll replace the fuel pump. Window motor, possibly another brake switch, a few other odds and ends that will need to be replaced.

Spent $220 at the damn dentist office this morning and scheduled a $500 visit to work on several cavities in april. My money's been going to other debts and odds and ends. I need to put more effort into selling the bike. Would clear out my debt, give me the cash to get my 18s and headers, and possibly the MEOWTA
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Melon
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MEOWTA

The NC's are coming down in price even more.
4zilch wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am I'm a fucking failure.
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Melon wrote: Wed Nov 29, 2017 11:10 am MEOWTA

The NC's are coming down in price even more.
I like the look of a NC... I need to drive a Miata at some point...
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Melon
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Apex wrote: Wed Nov 29, 2017 11:17 am
Melon wrote: Wed Nov 29, 2017 11:10 am MEOWTA

The NC's are coming down in price even more.
I like the look of a NC... I need to drive a Miata at some point...
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4zilch wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am I'm a fucking failure.
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Acid666
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Melon wrote: Wed Nov 29, 2017 11:31 am
Apex wrote: Wed Nov 29, 2017 11:17 am

I like the look of a NC... I need to drive a Miata at some point...
Image
I considered a newer one that's in the 10-12k Price range as it would be the same note as the car. But nah, it's not a good value when I can get miatas that run for 2-5K.
Also, forgot about the harmonic balancer swap! Another handful of benjis that I get to spend.
William is gonna get me his pin kit because it was left over from his LS3 swap on his C5 and he never used it.
Can anyone remind me why I need to pin the crank? If it's not timed there is there really a need for it? Or it's just a good safety measure and a "doesn't hurt so you might as well do it" mod?
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Melon
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I'm not familiar with the pin kit.
4zilch wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am I'm a fucking failure.
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I didn't pin mine, but I don't remember the details. I went with the :waxer: ATI balancer :doe: to make it a one time job.
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Ok did some googling, apparently if you're running forced injection it's HIGGGGGGGGHLY recommended that you pin it to prevent it from spinning.
For N/A applications, it's not needed, but helps to make sure that the bolt doesn't loosen and back out.

If you supercharge it, the blower puts alot more stress on the engine and can cause the balancer to spin on the crank.
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