Obligatory C5 Thread

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D Griff wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:22 pm
Detroit wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 11:53 am
Depends how much you intend to track. My last track experience, the brakes really let me down. Not sure if it was the pads or what, but it was not great. It's what prompted me to get these calipers (and they were a good :dill: ).

But really, I don't want to pay more for 18's on the front. Need to buy wheels, tires are more expensive, and I'll probably bend at least one wheel within a year. No thanks.
:word:

On track the only things that really let me down were tires and seat. Other than that the car was :impressive:

Brakes would likely be a much bigger issue with driver mod. I actually found braking to be the most difficult part of track driving.
:butwhy:

As in where to start braking?

That's the hard part with this car...you can get going so fast on straights, it takes time to figure out how late you can brake. And once you start to push that limit, the brakes start to go. On my last outing, something happened to pad deposits or something and once the brakes got hot, they'd shake violently under hard application. They were fine when they cooled, doe. That was annoying and I want to avoid that again. Now that my car can go every faster, I'm worried about brakes, but too :scrooge: to do anything about it.

I really should just get 18's and run the waxables.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:27 pm
D Griff wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:22 pm

:word:

On track the only things that really let me down were tires and seat. Other than that the car was :impressive:

Brakes would likely be a much bigger issue with driver mod. I actually found braking to be the most difficult part of track driving.
:butwhy:

As in where to start braking?

That's the hard part with this car...you can get going so fast on straights, it takes time to figure out how late you can brake. And once you start to push that limit, the brakes start to go. On my last outing, something happened to pad deposits or something and once the brakes got hot, they'd shake violently under hard application. They were fine when they cooled, doe. That was annoying and I want to avoid that again. Now that my car can go every faster, I'm worried about brakes, but too :scrooge: to do anything about it.

I really should just get 18's and run the waxables.
Yeah where to start braking. Also, I was gripping the steering wheel way too hard under heavy braking and as such the car was upsetting and the wheel jerking in my hands... I guess I have a lot of seat time cornering and accelerating hard, but less with hard braking, hard braking really isn't possible on the street.

Maybe you should just keep the brakes? :iono: ... At your power level, you'll need more brakes for sure. I don't really have plans to add more powah.
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D Griff wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:39 pm
Detroit wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:27 pm
:butwhy:

As in where to start braking?

That's the hard part with this car...you can get going so fast on straights, it takes time to figure out how late you can brake. And once you start to push that limit, the brakes start to go. On my last outing, something happened to pad deposits or something and once the brakes got hot, they'd shake violently under hard application. They were fine when they cooled, doe. That was annoying and I want to avoid that again. Now that my car can go every faster, I'm worried about brakes, but too :scrooge: to do anything about it.

I really should just get 18's and run the waxables.
Yeah where to start braking. Also, I was gripping the steering wheel way too hard under heavy braking and as such the car was upsetting and the wheel jerking in my hands... I guess I have a lot of seat time cornering and accelerating hard, but less with hard braking, hard braking really isn't possible on the street.

Maybe you should just keep the brakes? :iono: ... At your power level, you'll need more brakes for sure. I don't really have plans to add more powah.
Yea, especially on the track...which I'd like to do more but will realistically only hit a few times.

Just sucks that I have to buy two new wheels and pay way more for tires to fit them. Then deal with the real possibility of bending said wheels on our local moon surfaces. Gotta pay to play I guess. People do go full :jimp: on square setups, so it's probably the right move overall.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:47 pm
D Griff wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:39 pm

Yeah where to start braking. Also, I was gripping the steering wheel way too hard under heavy braking and as such the car was upsetting and the wheel jerking in my hands... I guess I have a lot of seat time cornering and accelerating hard, but less with hard braking, hard braking really isn't possible on the street.

Maybe you should just keep the brakes? :iono: ... At your power level, you'll need more brakes for sure. I don't really have plans to add more powah.
Yea, especially on the track...which I'd like to do more but will realistically only hit a few times.

Just sucks that I have to buy two new wheels and pay way more for tires to fit them. Then deal with the real possibility of bending said wheels on our local moon surfaces. Gotta pay to play I guess. People do go full :jimp: on square setups, so it's probably the right move overall.
Yeah man... things are expensive.

I'm trying to decide on this wheel thing. I just remembered about the pressure sensors, that adds in even more cost.

If I buy two cheap thin spoke rears, I'm looking at maybe $250, plus $400 to powder coat all four wheels, $800 for four tries, mounting fees a couple of times because I'd have to juggle wheels to get them powder coated two at a time... so that will be a hassle and wind up costing about $800 just for the wheels, then I'll end up have two chrome and two 50 AE fronts to sell individually, which likely will be hard to get rid of and not worth much because no one wants fronts.

If I just buy new wheels I can sell my 50 AE set together, looks like they may be worth a decent amount, $400-500 or more.

I could also just :scrooge: and get new tires on my existing wheels.
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D Griff wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:01 pm
Detroit wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:47 pm
Yea, especially on the track...which I'd like to do more but will realistically only hit a few times.

Just sucks that I have to buy two new wheels and pay way more for tires to fit them. Then deal with the real possibility of bending said wheels on our local moon surfaces. Gotta pay to play I guess. People do go full :jimp: on square setups, so it's probably the right move overall.
Yeah man... things are expensive.

I'm trying to decide on this wheel thing. I just remembered about the pressure sensors, that adds in even more cost.

If I buy two cheap thin spoke rears, I'm looking at maybe $250, plus $400 to powder coat all four wheels, $800 for four tries, mounting fees a couple of times because I'd have to juggle wheels to get them powder coated two at a time... so that will be a hassle and wind up costing about $800 just for the wheels, then I'll end up have two chrome and two 50 AE fronts to sell individually, which likely will be hard to get rid of and not worth much because no one wants fronts.

If I just buy new wheels I can sell my 50 AE set together, looks like they may be worth a decent amount, $400-500 or more.

I could also just :scrooge: and get new tires on my existing wheels.
Are you looking to go square for better track performance? I've honestly never wanted much more from the front, so I'm not sure it's really going to make a massive difference. Others can probably attest otherwise, doe. Tires can be rotated on a square setup, which is neat...but you probably don't drive your car much more than I do, so tires will outlast your ownershit regardless.

If I were you, I'd just get new tahrs on your current wheels and put the saved money toward track time for the driver mod. You're probably going to want to upgrade brakes (at least pads) at some point the more you develop, so that will drive extra cost too. You may also get tired of the car falling on its face above 5k on straights (I did), so the power mod might start to creep up in the back of your mind.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:10 pm
D Griff wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:01 pm

Yeah man... things are expensive.

I'm trying to decide on this wheel thing. I just remembered about the pressure sensors, that adds in even more cost.

If I buy two cheap thin spoke rears, I'm looking at maybe $250, plus $400 to powder coat all four wheels, $800 for four tries, mounting fees a couple of times because I'd have to juggle wheels to get them powder coated two at a time... so that will be a hassle and wind up costing about $800 just for the wheels, then I'll end up have two chrome and two 50 AE fronts to sell individually, which likely will be hard to get rid of and not worth much because no one wants fronts.

If I just buy new wheels I can sell my 50 AE set together, looks like they may be worth a decent amount, $400-500 or more.

I could also just :scrooge: and get new tires on my existing wheels.
Are you looking to go square for better track performance? I've honestly never wanted much more from the front, so I'm not sure it's really going to make a massive difference. Others can probably attest otherwise, doe. Tires can be rotated on a square setup, which is neat...but you probably don't drive your car much more than I do, so tires will outlast your ownershit regardless.

If I were you, I'd just get new tahrs on your current wheels and put the saved money toward track time for the driver mod. You're probably going to want to upgrade brakes (at least pads) at some point the more you develop, so that will drive extra cost too. You may also get tired of the car falling on its face above 5k on straights (I did), so the power mod might start to creep up in the back of your mind.
:notbad: suggestion, a set of the Indy500 tars would be CHEAP and they have great reviews. If I track a few more ties and TOTD this year they may only last a year or two but that's OK. Perhaps you're right, could revisit the wheels at the next tire purchase. This also allows :plac: without wasting money if I decide to go that route.
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D Griff wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:41 pm
Detroit wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:10 pm
Are you looking to go square for better track performance? I've honestly never wanted much more from the front, so I'm not sure it's really going to make a massive difference. Others can probably attest otherwise, doe. Tires can be rotated on a square setup, which is neat...but you probably don't drive your car much more than I do, so tires will outlast your ownershit regardless.

If I were you, I'd just get new tahrs on your current wheels and put the saved money toward track time for the driver mod. You're probably going to want to upgrade brakes (at least pads) at some point the more you develop, so that will drive extra cost too. You may also get tired of the car falling on its face above 5k on straights (I did), so the power mod might start to creep up in the back of your mind.
:notbad: suggestion, a set of the Indy500 tars would be CHEAP and they have great reviews. If I track a few more ties and TOTD this year they may only last a year or two but that's OK. Perhaps you're right, could revisit the wheels at the next tire purchase. This also allows :plac: without wasting money if I decide to go that route.
That's what I'd do.

Those Indy500 tahrs get great reviews. I'd run them if they sold a 295/35r18
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:54 pm
D Griff wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 1:41 pm

:notbad: suggestion, a set of the Indy500 tars would be CHEAP and they have great reviews. If I track a few more ties and TOTD this year they may only last a year or two but that's OK. Perhaps you're right, could revisit the wheels at the next tire purchase. This also allows :plac: without wasting money if I decide to go that route.
That's what I'd do.

Those Indy500 tahrs get great reviews. I'd run them if they sold a 295/35r18
They're :scrooge: AF too, under $500 for the set. Perhaps I should order them.
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If I do that maybe I'll use the "savings" to get some seats.

Anyone come across either of these?

https://www.corvettemods.com/Cloth-Corb ... gKj0fD_BwE

https://www.corvettemods.com/Corbeau-Fo ... gJVqPD_BwE

The first pair seems like a legit compromise for DD/fun duty and I would really prefer the look of two matching seats. The second would be affordable and track focused, could throw the stock seat back in for trips and such.
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D Griff wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 2:08 pm If I do that maybe I'll use the "savings" to get some seats.

Anyone come across either of these?

https://www.corvettemods.com/Cloth-Corb ... gKj0fD_BwE

https://www.corvettemods.com/Corbeau-Fo ... gJVqPD_BwE

The first pair seems like a legit compromise for DD/fun duty and I would really prefer the look of two matching seats. The second would be affordable and track focused, could throw the stock seat back in for trips and such.
The A4's are pretty popular...have been for a while. I don't like the giant CORBRO script across the headrest, doe.

I had a Forza in my 944, and it was a good seat. The pad could come out to max out headroom, which was 5/7. Living with it on a daily basis got old, doe...I eventually took it out and just kept the stock seat in place.

I've been looking heavily at Braum seats. :scrooge: look great, have great reviews...the only catch is they take a certain amount of modding to make work. The seat belts need to be changed to C6 belts, and the trim needs to be cut for the seat to fit. Still could be worth it. My biggest thing is maximizing headroom.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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These are some sexy looking seats!
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max225 wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 4:07 pm
These are some sexy looking seats!
Seriously! For $700/pair...I don't see how you can go wrong. Probably $1k all-in with brackets (they come with sliders even).
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote:
max225 wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 4:07 pm These are some sexy looking seats!
Seriously! For $700/pair...I don't see how you can go wrong. Probably $1k all-in with brackets (they come with sliders even).
Those look nice! Any option besides pleather?
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Tarspin wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:16 pm
Detroit wrote: Seriously! For $700/pair...I don't see how you can go wrong. Probably $1k all-in with brackets (they come with sliders even).
Those look nice! Any option besides pleather?
Suede and cloth. Super tempted to get a pair in suede.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote:
Tarspin wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:16 pm Those look nice! Any option besides pleather?
Suede and cloth. Super tempted to get a pair in suede.
Do they fit okay? :doit:

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Tarspin wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 8:45 pm
Detroit wrote:
Suede and cloth. Super tempted to get a pair in suede.
Do they fit okay? :doit:
If I switch to C6 seat belts, yep.

I have too much to spend money on this car... Brakes, wheels, tahrs, etc.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote:
Tarspin wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 8:45 pm Do they fit okay? :doit:
If I switch to C6 seat belts, yep.

I have too much to spend money on this car... Brakes, wheels, tahrs, etc.
Either whore... spend it on mods or spend it on :plac: ... maybe not both doe.

Sparco Evo 2s are said to be too wide in the C6, 23.xx" wide. These look an inch or so narrower at the shoulders so i was thinking that it would be a close call. Is the C5 bigger inside?
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Detroit wrote:
Tarspin wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 7:16 pm Those look nice! Any option besides pleather?
Suede and cloth. Super tempted to get a pair in suede.
I'll have to look into this... Although the A4s aren't really any more expensive and don't require any mods/fabrication. I don't mind the corBREAU logos... I do flat brim :doe:
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D Griff wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 11:31 pm
Detroit wrote:
Suede and cloth. Super tempted to get a pair in suede.
I'll have to look into this... Although the A4s aren't really any more expensive and don't require any mods/fabrication. I don't mind the corBREAU logos... I do flat brim :doe:
Eh, do some more research. Pretty sure the A4s require the same level of modifications. The width for the seat is impossibly narrow.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Tarspin wrote: Thu Mar 15, 2018 10:14 pm
Detroit wrote: If I switch to C6 seat belts, yep.

I have too much to spend money on this car... Brakes, wheels, tahrs, etc.
Either whore... spend it on mods or spend it on :plac: ... maybe not both doe.

Sparco Evo 2s are said to be too wide in the C6, 23.xx" wide. These look an inch or so narrower at the shoulders so i was thinking that it would be a close call. Is the C5 bigger inside?
Pretty sure :mahtroy: had an Evo 2 in his :poorvette:

The problem isn't the seat width so much as the recliner handle. On a C5, the seat belt retractor is on the bottom, so that cuts into the seat room. Almost all reclining seats have a handle right where that is, and it won't fit.

Some people switch drive and passenger seats so the recliner handle is next to the trans tunnel, but that makes it a pain to adjust.

The C6 belts bolt right in and have the mechanism on the top, which frees up bottom space for many more seat options and don't require moving the recliner handle.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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No Corbeau GTS II in an E30 doe...
4zilch wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am I'm a fucking failure.
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The curse of my C5 raises it's ugly head again. Right when I was thinking of keeping it longer, boom front main seal leak (Which I had replaced 10,000 miles ago) and the power steering rack is leaking. Not surprised by the rack, and a little annoyed over the FMS.

I was planning on selling the car in the fall, possibly getting another Corvette, oh you blue tub of hate.

I had a local shop do the crank pulley and front main for $300, hoping I can get the same round about price to do the FMS and steering rack.

~$700 for both. Fuck me, this stupid car.
:rage:
4zilch wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am I'm a fucking failure.
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Melon wrote: Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:36 pm The curse of my C5 raises it's ugly head again. Right when I was thinking of keeping it longer, boom front main seal leak (Which I had replaced 10,000 miles ago) and the power steering rack is leaking. Not surprised by the rack, and a little annoyed over the FMS.

I was planning on selling the car in the fall, possibly getting another Corvette, oh you blue tub of hate.

I had a local shop do the crank pulley and front main for $300, hoping I can get the same round about price to do the FMS and steering rack.

~$700 for both. Fuck me, this stupid car.
:rage:
Oh wow.

:disappoint:

FMS is like 90% of the work for a brubstick. Just sayin...
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Sun Mar 18, 2018 4:42 pm
Melon wrote: Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:36 pm The curse of my C5 raises it's ugly head again. Right when I was thinking of keeping it longer, boom front main seal leak (Which I had replaced 10,000 miles ago) and the power steering rack is leaking. Not surprised by the rack, and a little annoyed over the FMS.

I was planning on selling the car in the fall, possibly getting another Corvette, oh you blue tub of hate.

I had a local shop do the crank pulley and front main for $300, hoping I can get the same round about price to do the FMS and steering rack.

~$700 for both. Fuck me, this stupid car.
:rage:
Oh wow.

:disappoint:

FMS is like 90% of the work for a brubstick. Just sayin...
Who did the quality work the last time?
Detroit wrote:Buy 911s instead of diamonds.
Johnny_P wrote: Thu Feb 09, 2023 3:21 pm Earn it and burn it, Val.
max225 wrote: Mon May 01, 2023 5:35 pm Yes it's a cool car. But prepare the lube/sawdust.
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