Totally. Would be a ton of fun.
Obligatory C5 Thread
- ChrisoftheNorth
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Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Acid666
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I poured a bunch of JB Weld yesterday to fix my console. People wanting you to buy the whole go damned console instead of just selling the flip top.
Plastic is trash, looks like it's been patched up before but I'm gonna overdo it and hope that it holds up better.
Instead of trying to match these broken ass round tabs to the broken mating piece, I'm just gonna JB weld new flat surfaces, put them where they need to be, and then JB weld that together.
See that screw hole tab on #2? ALL of those are broken off. So I'm just making a new back side to em.
Plastic is trash, looks like it's been patched up before but I'm gonna overdo it and hope that it holds up better.
Instead of trying to match these broken ass round tabs to the broken mating piece, I'm just gonna JB weld new flat surfaces, put them where they need to be, and then JB weld that together.
See that screw hole tab on #2? ALL of those are broken off. So I'm just making a new back side to em.
- Acid666
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Usually the mileage is what sets the price.
Don't be afraid of high mileage if you can get a feel for how it was treated. I purposely looked for a high mileage car because I wanted one cheap. But the paint and body of the cars in the 100K+ range wasn't as appealing to me, so I lowered my mileage search from 100K down to about 70K and upped how much I was willing to spend to find something that was clean on the outside as well.
's looks super clean and I think he spent maybe $15K or so?
I spent $20K on mine with 69K miles.
If I were looking for a beater fun car I'd gladly buy one in the low low teens with 100-130K. But if I wanted something a little nicer I'd up that to $15-20K.
Last edited by Acid666 on Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
If I had to do it all over again, I'd go the route with a 100k+ mile example for cheap. They're really very durable cars and most of the issues like leaking rear diffs, bubbling hatch paint, and busted headlight motors, seem to happen on some cars regardless of miles. Things like fluids, shocks, etc. you'll want to replace either way.
Especially if you plan to mod/drive the thing often, go for a lower entry price. I enjoy mine and don't regret anything, but if doing it all over, I'd go for a different color and a lower price, especially since I DD it. I'm almost to 100k miles and then it'll be worth the same $12k as these other ones. Oh well.
- Melon
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I spent $16k on mine with 89k miles.Acid666 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:06 amUsually the mileage is what sets the price.
Don't be afraid of high mileage if you can get a feel for how it was treated. I purposely looked for a high mileage car because I wanted one cheap. But the paint and body of the cars in the 100K+ range wasn't as appealing to me, so I lowered my mileage search from 100K down to about 70K and upped how much I was willing to spend to find something that was clean on the outside as well.
's looks super clean and I think he spent maybe $15K or so?
I spent $20K on mine with 69K miles.
Mileage isn't a huge deal on these cars, I'd actually go for one with higher mileage, it means it's been driven and not sitting.
I got my car three years ago pretty much to the day, it was about $18.5k OTD with 70k miles, but super clean. To this day it's the cleanest C5 I've been in, especially the interior. The exterior is a tad worse for the wear since I've owned it. The front bumper scraping is real. I'd rather have just had that done for me by the last guy and saved a grand.
- ChrisoftheNorth
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Very much this. Just make sure it's an 01+ for the revised stability control system (that is fixable).D Griff wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:07 amIf I had to do it all over again, I'd go the route with a 100k+ mile example for cheap. They're really very durable cars and most of the issues like leaking rear diffs, bubbling hatch paint, and busted headlight motors, seem to happen on some cars regardless of miles. Things like fluids, shocks, etc. you'll want to replace either way.
Especially if you plan to mod/drive the thing often, go for a lower entry price. I enjoy mine and don't regret anything, but if doing it all over, I'd go for a different color and a lower price, especially since I DD it. I'm almost to 100k miles and then it'll be worth the same $12k as these other ones. Oh well.
In 3 years, I've put 10k miles on mine. that's 48k to 58k miles. 110 to 120 would have been much less of a hit and the cost of entry would have been WAY lower.
Oh well.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
Detroit wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:21 amVery much this. Just make sure it's an 01+ for the revised stability control system (that is fixable).D Griff wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:07 am
If I had to do it all over again, I'd go the route with a 100k+ mile example for cheap. They're really very durable cars and most of the issues like leaking rear diffs, bubbling hatch paint, and busted headlight motors, seem to happen on some cars regardless of miles. Things like fluids, shocks, etc. you'll want to replace either way.
Especially if you plan to mod/drive the thing often, go for a lower entry price. I enjoy mine and don't regret anything, but if doing it all over, I'd go for a different color and a lower price, especially since I DD it. I'm almost to 100k miles and then it'll be worth the same $12k as these other ones. Oh well.
In 3 years, I've put 10k miles on mine. that's 48k to 58k miles. 110 to 120 would have been much less of a hit and the cost of entry would have been WAY lower.
Oh well.
You should drive your car more.
- ChrisoftheNorth
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I DD it in the summer. But I only drive 15 miles/day so miles rack up slowly.D Griff wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:24 amDetroit wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:21 am Very much this. Just make sure it's an 01+ for the revised stability control system (that is fixable).
In 3 years, I've put 10k miles on mine. that's 48k to 58k miles. 110 to 120 would have been much less of a hit and the cost of entry would have been WAY lower.
Oh well.
You should drive your car more.
Hell, I only put 15k miles on my truck in 2 years...and that's including 3k miles driving to Dallas and back unnecessarily as well as probably 2k miles worth of camping trips.
That's 5k miles/year on each...so I drive them both pretty equally really.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Johnny_P
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I wouldn't be afraid of a higher mileage C5. I'd actually be more afraid of a 10k mile C5 in pristine shined condition that was only ever driven to Hooters car shows and revved in parking lots by a silverhair.
- Johnny_P
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You drive over double what I do in a year. I'm on track for 4k miles/yr.Detroit wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:31 amI DD it in the summer. But I only drive 15 miles/day so miles rack up slowly.
Hell, I only put 15k miles on my truck in 2 years...and that's including 3k miles driving to Dallas and back unnecessarily as well as probably 2k miles worth of camping trips.
That's 5k miles/year on each...so I drive them both pretty equally really.
- Apex
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Such City Lyfe.Johnny_P wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:32 amYou drive over double what I do in a year. I'm on track for 4k miles/yr.Detroit wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:31 am
I DD it in the summer. But I only drive 15 miles/day so miles rack up slowly.
Hell, I only put 15k miles on my truck in 2 years...and that's including 3k miles driving to Dallas and back unnecessarily as well as probably 2k miles worth of camping trips.
That's 5k miles/year on each...so I drive them both pretty equally really.
- ChrisoftheNorth
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Totally. A car that's driven more is more likely to have the common issues worked out.
Despite being ruined by mods, my car would be a great buy for someone because every single common issue has been addressed. Except for the headlights...because I never use them and when I do they work fine.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- ChrisoftheNorth
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My 15 mile/day commute is double yours isn't it?Johnny_P wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:32 amYou drive over double what I do in a year. I'm on track for 4k miles/yr.Detroit wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:31 am
I DD it in the summer. But I only drive 15 miles/day so miles rack up slowly.
Hell, I only put 15k miles on my truck in 2 years...and that's including 3k miles driving to Dallas and back unnecessarily as well as probably 2k miles worth of camping trips.
That's 5k miles/year on each...so I drive them both pretty equally really.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Acid666
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And I got parts that are sitting if you need.
Speaking of I installed the thermostat, just haven't run the car yet.
Alan, get a Miata and we can be twinsies and jerk each other off between runs. Lol.
I'm debating on building one next year with Kendra. It may have cat ears fiberglass to the body tho, but I will make it bad ass.