I didn't remove the abs from it's mount, I removed the mount from the subframe/cradle. So it should go right back where it was pretty easily.
Obligatory C5 Thread
- ChrisoftheNorth
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Yep, that's the way to do it, IMO.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Acid666
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Overall, this isn't a horribly bad job, but one that takes time and patience. Whoever got the shop to quote it in under 4 hours, I see now how you can wonder how the f0ck you can accomplish that. It took me 4 hours just to get to the point where I could get to the damn pulley. But if I had to do this again I could likely get to that point in 2 hours.
If I decide on a cam later I don't mind tearing it all apart again as I know all the shortcuts and problems that will come up just for removing it all.
Probably going to start to install the pulley this evening and cleaning up parts. Not sure if the bolts that I have will be long enough to actually thread in to start it, so that'll be the first thing I check when I get started. May end up making a trip to Fastenal if that's the case.
If I decide on a cam later I don't mind tearing it all apart again as I know all the shortcuts and problems that will come up just for removing it all.
Probably going to start to install the pulley this evening and cleaning up parts. Not sure if the bolts that I have will be long enough to actually thread in to start it, so that'll be the first thing I check when I get started. May end up making a trip to Fastenal if that's the case.
- ChrisoftheNorth
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you should seriously consider replacing the front main seal "while you're in there".Acid666 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2017 10:49 am Overall, this isn't a horribly bad job, but one that takes time and patience. Whoever got the shop to quote it in under 4 hours, I see now how you can wonder how the f0ck you can accomplish that. It took me 4 hours just to get to the point where I could get to the damn pulley. But if I had to do this again I could likely get to that point in 2 hours.
If I decide on a cam later I don't mind tearing it all apart again as I know all the shortcuts and problems that will come up just for removing it all.
Probably going to start to install the pulley this evening and cleaning up parts. Not sure if the bolts that I have will be long enough to actually thread in to start it, so that'll be the first thing I check when I get started. May end up making a trip to Fastenal if that's the case.
Also, Tarspin said the shop that did his in under 4 hours did it on a lift and dropped the front subframe. I could see that working.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Tar
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That was me, they said that they kept all that stuff attached and dropped the engine cradle or sub frame to access the work area.Acid666 wrote:Overall, this isn't a horribly bad job, but one that takes time and patience. Whoever got the shop to quote it in under 4 hours, I see now how you can wonder how the f0ck you can accomplish that. It took me 4 hours just to get to the point where I could get to the damn pulley. But if I had to do this again I could likely get to that point in 2 hours.
If I decide on a cam later I don't mind tearing it all apart again as I know all the shortcuts and problems that will come up just for removing it all.
Probably going to start to install the pulley this evening and cleaning up parts. Not sure if the bolts that I have will be long enough to actually thread in to start it, so that'll be the first thing I check when I get started. May end up making a trip to Fastenal if that's the case.
- ChrisoftheNorth
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Yea, I could see that working well. Honestly, it's just the 4 subframe bolts, the steering shaft, engine mounts (which you can get to under the subframe), and power steering lines. Probably have it dropped in an hour if you knew what you're doing.Tarspin wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2017 10:55 amThat was me, they said that they kept all that stuff attached and dropped the engine cradle or sub frame to access the work area.Acid666 wrote:Overall, this isn't a horribly bad job, but one that takes time and patience. Whoever got the shop to quote it in under 4 hours, I see now how you can wonder how the f0ck you can accomplish that. It took me 4 hours just to get to the point where I could get to the damn pulley. But if I had to do this again I could likely get to that point in 2 hours.
If I decide on a cam later I don't mind tearing it all apart again as I know all the shortcuts and problems that will come up just for removing it all.
Probably going to start to install the pulley this evening and cleaning up parts. Not sure if the bolts that I have will be long enough to actually thread in to start it, so that'll be the first thing I check when I get started. May end up making a trip to Fastenal if that's the case.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Tar
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Dat.. it was about $800+tax CAD parts and labor. They have done 150 of them and are the go to shop locally. They also did my 3.90sDetroit wrote:you should seriously consider replacing the front main seal "while you're in there".Acid666 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2017 10:49 am Overall, this isn't a horribly bad job, but one that takes time and patience. Whoever got the shop to quote it in under 4 hours, I see now how you can wonder how the f0ck you can accomplish that. It took me 4 hours just to get to the point where I could get to the damn pulley. But if I had to do this again I could likely get to that point in 2 hours.
If I decide on a cam later I don't mind tearing it all apart again as I know all the shortcuts and problems that will come up just for removing it all.
Probably going to start to install the pulley this evening and cleaning up parts. Not sure if the bolts that I have will be long enough to actually thread in to start it, so that'll be the first thing I check when I get started. May end up making a trip to Fastenal if that's the case.
Also, Tarspin said the shop that did his in under 4 hours did it on a lift and dropped the front subframe. I could see that working.
- ChrisoftheNorth
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Not a bad deal at all.Tarspin wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2017 10:59 amDat.. it was about $800+tax CAD parts and labor. They have done 150 of them and are the go to shop locally. They also did my 3.90sDetroit wrote: you should seriously consider replacing the front main seal "while you're in there".
Also, Tarspin said the shop that did his in under 4 hours did it on a lift and dropped the front subframe. I could see that working.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Acid666
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Thing is, I totally could of done this, but I'd still need to work the steering rack out of the way a little. I could lift the whole car on my quickjack, and then use my motorcycle lift to drop the subframe, but the steering rack is still connected to that. But it's possible that it's just a lot easier to get to all of those pieces.Tarspin wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2017 10:55 amThat was me, they said that they kept all that stuff attached and dropped the engine cradle or sub frame to access the work area.Acid666 wrote:Overall, this isn't a horribly bad job, but one that takes time and patience. Whoever got the shop to quote it in under 4 hours, I see now how you can wonder how the f0ck you can accomplish that. It took me 4 hours just to get to the point where I could get to the damn pulley. But if I had to do this again I could likely get to that point in 2 hours.
If I decide on a cam later I don't mind tearing it all apart again as I know all the shortcuts and problems that will come up just for removing it all.
Probably going to start to install the pulley this evening and cleaning up parts. Not sure if the bolts that I have will be long enough to actually thread in to start it, so that'll be the first thing I check when I get started. May end up making a trip to Fastenal if that's the case.
I think the biggest thing here is that this whole thing will likely only cost me about $150 total with the pulley, puller tool, flywheel lockdown tool, antifreeze and power steering fluid. I R TEH CHEEPZ
Last edited by Acid666 on Mon Dec 18, 2017 11:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Tar
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Yeah if i was more free handed I'd do my own work but it's not my reality, so at least i have a reliable group to work with that offers amazing prices. Dealer has a different process and charges double.
- ChrisoftheNorth
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All you'd need to do is disconnect the power steering lines and the steering shaft to the rack. Then the rack would just drop down with the subframe.Acid666 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2017 11:01 amThing is, I totally could of done this, but I'd still need to work the steering rack out of the way a little. I could lift the whole car on my quickjack, and then use my motorcycle lift to drop the subframe, but the steering rack is still connected to that. But it's possible that it's just a lot easier to get to all of those pieces.
I think the biggest thing here is that this whole thing will likely only cost me about $150 total with the pulley, puller tool, flywheel lockdown tool, antifreeze and power steering fluid. I R TEH CHEEPZ
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- Acid666
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Yeah but isn't the engine mounted to the subframe? I figured if I dropped the subframe I'd still need to separate the rack from the subframe. That's partially why I didn't do it. Also I didn't want to pull wires and hoses between the engine and the body
- ChrisoftheNorth
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The engine mounts bolt through the subframe...with a nut on the bottom. You could disconnect the engine mounts just as easily as the rest of the subframe. There's only a few clips attached to the subframe, and mostly brake lines. Those are pretty simple to disconnect.
It doesn't matter at this point for you, but something to consider if you decide to cam it or something in the future.
Desertbreh wrote: ↑Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
- troyguitar
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I'm not going to or if I sell it it'll be for some other sports car thing.
I'll autox whatever I'm very slow.
- Acid666
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Harmonic balancer is now replaced. Probably took about 12 hours total. Slowwwwwwwly took my time tinkering with it so I wouldn't get stressed. The longest shit was just little single bolts that would not go in or I had to turn just a couple of degrees at a time. I spent probably about 20 minutes trying to get 1 of the 2 power steering fittings on, trying from the top, bottom, thru the wheel well. It just would not thread. Had the bright idea to try it in the opposite port and low and behold, they designed them with 2 different sizes so you couldn't confuse them. Fuck me.
Got the car full of new antifreeze and power steering fluid (since I dumped all it trying to get the pump out), power steering fluid was dark anyways. Time for a refresher.
It was overheating a bit when I cranked it up, and wouldn't pull hot air through the heater, but I kept opening and closing the radiator overflow tank to let it suck more into the system and it eventually started to work.
Now the only thing I got wrong is a little play in the steering, so I'm going to see if I need to mess with the bolt where the steering linkage connects to the steering rack.
I wouldn't mind doing the work again now that I know what to do and in what order. I may consider a cam down the road and would be a nice little project that I think I could knock out in a weekend.
Tackling a cam in the truck would be stupid easy with all the space it's got.
Ok, the end of my ramble
Got the car full of new antifreeze and power steering fluid (since I dumped all it trying to get the pump out), power steering fluid was dark anyways. Time for a refresher.
It was overheating a bit when I cranked it up, and wouldn't pull hot air through the heater, but I kept opening and closing the radiator overflow tank to let it suck more into the system and it eventually started to work.
Now the only thing I got wrong is a little play in the steering, so I'm going to see if I need to mess with the bolt where the steering linkage connects to the steering rack.
I wouldn't mind doing the work again now that I know what to do and in what order. I may consider a cam down the road and would be a nice little project that I think I could knock out in a weekend.
Tackling a cam in the truck would be stupid easy with all the space it's got.
Ok, the end of my ramble
- Acid666
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I first noticed when it was getting to 230-240, I turned the Ac on to see if I heard the fans kick on, then I turned it to full heat and it was still blowing cold air. Did some reading, checked fuses and all kinda shit. Then I just let it cool, filled it with more antifreeze, and kept opening and closing the system to give it a chance to pull more fluid in. At first I thought the thermostat was stuck closed or something, but once it finally got enough antifreeze in it it got really cool and back to normal. I thought maybe I didn't plug a sensor back in or something. I was shocked that I didn't forget something when putting it all together. It was a lot of various parts, hoses and plugs I removed.
- Desertbreh
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Cross Post. I assume everyone here is too cool for stock parts, but free is free. See below.
Guise. I am cleaning out my garage.
On offer for SHIPPING ONLY, FREE SHIT HERE for DFDers.
1. Set of 2012 Corvette C6 GS Dampers with 12K miles on them.
2. Set of stock Sachs Dampers from a 2012 GTI, with 20K miles on them. (I guess I could only be talking to Ron or Brad here.) The lucky recipient of these dampers can also receive, if so desired, a set of brand new poverty spec stock black carpet mats, AND a free factory TSI oil filter.
Somebody cashmeoutside on these bro deals.
I also have the stock GTI sway bars, but ain't nobody got time for dat.
Guise. I am cleaning out my garage.
On offer for SHIPPING ONLY, FREE SHIT HERE for DFDers.
1. Set of 2012 Corvette C6 GS Dampers with 12K miles on them.
2. Set of stock Sachs Dampers from a 2012 GTI, with 20K miles on them. (I guess I could only be talking to Ron or Brad here.) The lucky recipient of these dampers can also receive, if so desired, a set of brand new poverty spec stock black carpet mats, AND a free factory TSI oil filter.
Somebody cashmeoutside on these bro deals.
I also have the stock GTI sway bars, but ain't nobody got time for dat.
- CorvetteWaxer
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Last summer I finally tossed the OEM GTi, Golf R and Mustang GT Perf. pack swap bars in the trash. No idea why I even kept them.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2018 3:47 pm Cross Post. I assume everyone here is too cool for stock parts, but free is free. See below.
Guise. I am cleaning out my garage.
On offer for SHIPPING ONLY, FREE SHIT HERE for DFDers.
1. Set of 2012 Corvette C6 GS Dampers with 12K miles on them.
2. Set of stock Sachs Dampers from a 2012 GTI, with 20K miles on them. (I guess I could only be talking to Ron or Brad here.) The lucky recipient of these dampers can also receive, if so desired, a set of brand new poverty spec stock black carpet mats, AND a free factory TSI oil filter.
Somebody cashmeoutside on these bro deals.
I also have the stock GTI sway bars, but ain't nobody got time for dat.
- Desertbreh
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I kept the stock GTI suspension initially because I modded a leased car. The I bought out the lease. Then I wasn't going to pay someone $500 to retrieve $500 worth of parts for me. I traded it a local VW dealer, who gave no fucks what suspension was on it. Typical modding cash flush.CorvetteWaxer wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2018 5:45 pmLast summer I finally tossed the OEM GTi, Golf R and Mustang GT Perf. pack swap bars in the trash. No idea why I even kept them.Desertbreh wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2018 3:47 pm Cross Post. I assume everyone here is too cool for stock parts, but free is free. See below.
Guise. I am cleaning out my garage.
On offer for SHIPPING ONLY, FREE SHIT HERE for DFDers.
1. Set of 2012 Corvette C6 GS Dampers with 12K miles on them.
2. Set of stock Sachs Dampers from a 2012 GTI, with 20K miles on them. (I guess I could only be talking to Ron or Brad here.) The lucky recipient of these dampers can also receive, if so desired, a set of brand new poverty spec stock black carpet mats, AND a free factory TSI oil filter.
Somebody cashmeoutside on these bro deals.
I also have the stock GTI sway bars, but ain't nobody got time for dat.