Acid's adventures in 3d printing

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Acid666
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This is a place to jot my experience and progress down. If there's something any of you would like me to make an attempt at let me know and I'll see what I can do.



So I bit the bullet and grabbed a 3d printer. I'm looking to find a little side hustle so I'm trying to find what angle I can hit to use my skillz. My investment is fairly minimal so far, I'm just doing a lot of calibrating and learning what the printer actually likes, and what settings to use for my slicing software to make it print cleaner. Currently I'm at the point where I'm comfortable with it as a whole and can get it to print decently. Once I make some more progress I'll start to do longer and bigger prints and then tweak my software settings. I just hate printing something overnight only to come back to a shit ton of filament looking like a cross between a rat's nest and a spiderweb. This thread is kind of a placeholder for my progress, things I've printed, lessons learned, and any requests.

Like I mentioned, intent for this is a side hustle. I've been digging and there's a lot of open source models out there online. You need something, someone's done it and you can download the model for free. To make money you can either charge a fee for models you create, charge to print things for people, or both. Charging to print things can bring in decent cash, but it takes time and if your printer isn't on point you might end up redoing things several times. I model for a living, so I can design things, but I don't do cool artsy type of surface work, mainly machine tooled stuff. My intent is to possibly do custom car parts to fill in weird gaps in panels for a custom switch, or air intake boxes and tubing. Since I can print 3d tubes and keep the inside smooth I think custom routed tubing might be kinda cool. I plan on making replacement things for our MR2 track car eventually.

I ended up going with a Creality Ender 3 V2. Normally $279 on Amazon, 4.5 stars, thousands of positive reviews. The researched and it seemed to be the best bang for the buck. Also there's a shit ton of mods where you can upgrade parts. I think that's how they keep the price down to an entry level amount. Keep the base price down, and let them upgrade as they see fit. And the mods are all super affordable. We're talking like a lot of things in the $10-20 range, a few in the $40 area, and the big ticket items higher up.


I went ahead and ordered a metal extruder clamp part to replace the plastic OEM setup, and a better filament tube that's got a tighter internal tolerance and I think it's a different surface that aids in friction so it doesn't snag. Also ordered stiffer springs, metal adjustment knobs to replace the flimsy plastic ones, and a new glass plate for better adhesion.

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There's been a LOT Of trial and error, and troubleshooting followed by breakthroughs for new problems that have come up.
Cliff notes on those:
1) Right out of the box I calibrated the print bed, tested on a calibration part, worked fine.
2) Printed a part, rebooted and had a black screen. Had to reflash with proper firmware.
3) Parts wouldn't properly adhere to the print bed, learned that I needed to heat the bed a little hotter, slow the print speed down to 50% on the first 3 layers and completely cut the fan off during that phase. This allows it to stay warm, cutting the fan off stops it from drying/hardening so fast, and it also prohibits it from retracting in on itself and curling up. Once the layers above it stack it helps keep its shape and stay a solid base layer.
4) Printer bed adjustments worked for a day, but had more trouble later. Started to prep bed with alcohol and it helped for a print or two.
5) Started cleaning with alcohol and putting glue stick down on every print and it seemed to work every time.
6) X-axis motor stopped working mid print. Removed belt and tested stepper motor, did not rotate but made a ton of noise. Swapped wiring with Z axis stepper and moved motor via the manual adjustments and X motor turned. Traced it down to wiring and cracked open case to motherboard. North Korea quality control showed of the 4 metal prongs going into the motherboard for the X stepper motor, 1 worked its way loose. Fixed and reassembled.




Now onto the part creation. First order of business is the print calibration parts, and tools for the printer itself. People print all sorts of mods for their shit so my first was to make a tool holder that houses all of the tools it came with. Fits into the extruded metal away from the rest of the moving parts.
Calibration cat


Tool Holder



After I got everything pretty fluid and working, I printed this stupid ass boat. Apparently it's the number one part people print to calibrate their shit. It's got overhangs, angled ledges, flats, text, holes, weird angles and other shit that's a stress test and tells you all sorts of things from if you're retraction rate is good, the temp and cooling during certain parts is ok, etc. I think it ended up coming out pretty solid with only a couple of things I need to tweak.
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Next attempted print was something small but detailed. Tried a skull thing the wife wanted. There's some thin spots where it didn't retract correctly so it started to string out as it moved from one ledge to the next. Not horrible once I cut the stringing out, but def not a clean print.


Next was some Toyota side mirror deflectors I found from a guy on Reddit. Figured it's worth a try. Printed the pair, and the retraction and cooling wasn't going great so when it would finish one layer on one and move to the other it would string everywhere. Kinda cleaned up but not a clean final print. Also this printed with supports for the letters, hence why the weird shaped shit under it during the build.




Cool part, but needs to be made out of ABS plastic and not PLA. I put one of these in the sun for half a day and it folded over. So it doesn't take UV and heat very well at all.



First decent print to completion. I got halfway thru this one before the X axis motor failed. Retried a day later and got this.
Fairly clean, lots of gaps during the layering so it was a good test for the retraction changes. Zero stringing here, so my software changes appear to be making forward progress. I may have to revisit the settings when I swap to ABS plastic since it'll have to be heated to a higher temp.



Currently printing 3 parts for the wife. Little succulent plant holders. 2 Cats and 1 baby groot one. That's a 21 hour print so it should be finished this evening. Will get pics when I get home. I'm trying to print something nightly to work out all the bugs as I progress to longer build times. Once I get comfortable with the printer itself, I'll start modeling up things. First design I plan on doing is a custom winch cover for me and :melon:'s trailer winch to protect it from the rain
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Groot and frands finished today. One of the first few layers screwed up and I paused the print, and it didn't quite finish that layer correctly. Pusheen cat has no nose, so I needa fab one up. Fat round cat has no feet, but I ain't fixing that.
Groot from about 1/8" above the bottom is fucking clean. In the head the layers blend stupid smooth to each other and it looks pretty awesome.




Current print of the night is this horned skull again but larger. Build time eta 1 day 6 hours.


Also I ordered a roll of ABS today so I can make some parts that can take the sun better.
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What software are you using, and what are the model formats you're using?

Does it import 3D AutoCad files? Is AutoCad still being used by anyone?

I like the technology, and am thinking about getting one for little work grippers and/or just to get the kids playing with it and learning.

It would be nice if there were a decent one right out of the box, I'd pay extra to avoid the odd hangup.
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It’ll be fun to follow what stuff you can make with this.
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Acid666
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Tarspin wrote: Fri Jun 11, 2021 12:27 am What software are you using, and what are the model formats you're using?

Does it import 3D AutoCad files? Is AutoCad still being used by anyone?

I like the technology, and am thinking about getting one for little work grippers and/or just to get the kids playing with it and learning.

It would be nice if there were a decent one right out of the box, I'd pay extra to avoid the odd hangup.

Right now I'm not really using any software to model, I'm just printing things I've downloaded. But when I do I'll be using Solidworks. So it won't really be too much artsy surface type shit. More mechanical design, which Solidworks is good for.
For printing, I'm using Cura I think it's called. Creality does come with some slicing software, but even they tell you to go download Cura and use that. Cura takes in .stl files and converts it into layers and the g-code that the printers need to develop the tool paths. It has a TON of settings and does all of the work for you, so you don't need to model it in a certain way. Like, you don't need to hollow it out to save material or anything. Cura will "infill" it and thin out the inside with a build structure and you can choose the % you want. If you want solid thickness you just select 100%. If you want 20% infill so it uses a hex pattern for the inside and saves plastic then you simply select it, select your pattern, and your percentage. Easy peasy.

Autocad is still being used, but mainly in certain industries. I still convert some prints into .dxf and .dwg format for some parts I do at work to be able for them to send it to a burn table or waterjet. We've got one customer that sends over 3d autocad files but we just use them for reference.
This is a great printer for the money, but I feel like there's a little bit of trial and error to get it up to speed. Their QC could be a little better, but overall any DIY'r with problem solving skills can figure most of the kinks out. I mean it's rated so high for a reason. There can't be that many people having the same problems as me.
Also, this is the reason I've been keeping a running list of what I've done to mine with lessons learned. I got a friend who wants one and I want to be able to explain every issue that might pop up to him so he can just go straight to printing clean without the trial and error I had to deal with.
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Acid666 wrote: Fri Jun 11, 2021 9:38 am
Tarspin wrote: Fri Jun 11, 2021 12:27 am What software are you using, and what are the model formats you're using?

Does it import 3D AutoCad files? Is AutoCad still being used by anyone?

I like the technology, and am thinking about getting one for little work grippers and/or just to get the kids playing with it and learning.

It would be nice if there were a decent one right out of the box, I'd pay extra to avoid the odd hangup.

Right now I'm not really using any software to model, I'm just printing things I've downloaded. But when I do I'll be using Solidworks. So it won't really be too much artsy surface type shit. More mechanical design, which Solidworks is good for.
For printing, I'm using Cura I think it's called. Creality does come with some slicing software, but even they tell you to go download Cura and use that. Cura takes in .stl files and converts it into layers and the g-code that the printers need to develop the tool paths. It has a TON of settings and does all of the work for you, so you don't need to model it in a certain way. Like, you don't need to hollow it out to save material or anything. Cura will "infill" it and thin out the inside with a build structure and you can choose the % you want. If you want solid thickness you just select 100%. If you want 20% infill so it uses a hex pattern for the inside and saves plastic then you simply select it, select your pattern, and your percentage. Easy peasy.

Autocad is still being used, but mainly in certain industries. I still convert some prints into .dxf and .dwg format for some parts I do at work to be able for them to send it to a burn table or waterjet. We've got one customer that sends over 3d autocad files but we just use them for reference.
This is a great printer for the money, but I feel like there's a little bit of trial and error to get it up to speed. Their QC could be a little better, but overall any DIY'r with problem solving skills can figure most of the kinks out. I mean it's rated so high for a reason. There can't be that many people having the same problems as me.
Also, this is the reason I've been keeping a running list of what I've done to mine with lessons learned. I got a friend who wants one and I want to be able to explain every issue that might pop up to him so he can just go straight to printing clean without the trial and error I had to deal with.
Thanks for the info! Are you going to convert your Solidworks files into something specific or STL format, or does Cura know how to convert files from numerous 3D modeling software?

I'll check in here for your debugging and learning process, the alcohol/glue-stick surface prep is :megusta: , good job broseph!
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Tarspin wrote: Fri Jun 11, 2021 9:53 am

Thanks for the info! Are you going to convert your Solidworks files into something specific or STL format, or does Cura know how to convert files from numerous 3D modeling software?

I'll check in here for your debugging and learning process, the alcohol/glue-stick surface prep is :megusta: , good job broseph!
When I do stuff I bring it straight into Cura as a .stl. Last night I tried to bring in .step and parasolids and apparently Cura only speaks in .stl. So it looks like everything I do will be exported as that format.

The horned cat skull is turning out clean so far. I went with a super fine resolution of .12mm per layer as opposed to the standard .2mm. Right now it's mostly support structures and it's starting to get to the body of the jaw, but I'm hoping when I check it at lunch it'll be to the bottom of the eyes. Should be finished in the wee hours AM hours on Saturday I think.
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Horned skull finished up yesterday. It fucked up exactly where I thought it would. It built supports for the tips of the horns and then tried to go from a point to a bigger cone, but it was so flimsy that it fell over and didn't work out until the layers moved high enough for a continuous nozzle path. That's where that break line is in the horns, I paused it there and tried to make it work and it didn't quite align right. No biggie though, I can sand all that shit smooth.

Overall it came out clean though. .12mm layer high (highest resolution possible with my setup)



Also, today I went to change out the shrader valve in the Miata since it leaked all the freon I put it in the other day. I put my tool in it but it was too short. I was going to go find another locally but then decided to search online and BAM, someone's already modeled one. Downloaded it and printed it in 13 minutes. Worked like a charm


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:wap: Where are these mangos?
Detroit wrote: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:19 pm I don't understand anything anymore.
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Did some modeling today for the winch cover. Gonna refine after I think about it some more.
I'm kind of aiming for a futuristic angular stealth armor kind of vibe. Simple shape so far, but I've added a few things like tongue and grooves to attach the two center pieces together. Hoping my hinge tolerance works out out and it's not too sloppy (hole is .250 and dowel is .245). I'm printing it 1/4 scale right now just to hold it and tinker and see if anything weird is obvious once I put it all together. I don't think the hole and tongue/groove tolerances will scale very well, but it's really just to see it together as an assembly. I may need to make a bracket connecting the left and right sides with some screws holding them together or something. Right now it'll be 3m taped to the trailer on the top and bottom from several different angles so it should lock it down into place.

For reference, I'm building a box to cover this winch from the rain. It's bolted to the vertical plate behind it, and has an overhang above it. I've got oring grooves in it that I can tweak later once I find a good hose to seal water off. Then I'll just silicone it into place and resize my groove to match/crush it the appropriate amount.





I want to put a logo in it, I just need to draw one up. Waiting on a friend to see if he can get me a .dxf of our autocross club logo. Otherwise I'll just model in some vulgar shit for the hell of it.
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Did a preliminary 30% scale of the 4 parts to test a proof of concept. Likely doing like Alan suggests and possibly change out my hinge pins with two females and a metal dowel. No breaking of parts and it'll operate the same. Also need to design in a spring clip or something to make it snap into place. I think I can design something that'll still keep a clean look. Also I need to re-evaluate my tab clearance with the left and right hinged piece. Not quite sure how tight the fit will be between the tongue and groove.
Might make some more progress this week on the design when I get free.




Also printed up a Thanos bust for a buddy to paint. Didn't do any clean up, was just testing this cheaper PLA filament to see how clean I can get it with a high resolution.
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Made me a Covid baby yota
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Been a minute. Got a few other things printed, some longer prints done as well. I have a raspberry pi setup now so I can remotely connect to it and upload files, but I'm still struggling to get the pi's camera to function. Not completely necessary to print but I want to be able to save out some time lapses. When it's running it should let you remotely view it to check on your print, and then adjust settings on the fly if you want.

Friend designed a hub for his bike so he could tie it down in the back of his truck and be able to close the tailgate. Said it works pretty well. Had to sand down a couple of spots for the shaft. We were seeing how accurate the tolerances are with the printing and mating of parts afterwords


Printed some work stuff that I was modeling just to see how it would handle an assembly with multiple parts in one .stl file. This is a full bolt/receiver assembly for one of the rifles we helped design for a company, printed half scale. Found a few of the bottom areas need to be tweaked in my printer settings, and the trigger was a little weak with it's attachment so it broke off. No biggie.

Magazines for same company


And the winch cover I designed for :melon: and I's trailer. 24 hour print out of ABS, I needed to print to scale to see how it would latch onto the top. Already I see that the fillets in the top corner is a big gap. So I'll likely fill with something soft to take up that space. It'll be 3m taped to the trailer itself so that'll stop water coming in from the top. Also have oring grooves for rubber gasket seals to be placed along the length of mating parts. Not sure how this ABS is going to take the heat, so I ordered a roll of ASA, which might be better. We'll see. It's all material testing to see how it handles the sun and heat. Will likely start one of the hatch parts tonight. It's a 30 hour print so mehhhhhhhh
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Can you make a trophy for the cuck of the year poll winner?
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CaleDeRoo wrote: Wed Jul 14, 2021 7:40 pm Can you make a trophy for the cuck of the year poll winner?
That I can. Pay me $40 and then I'll never log back into the forum and ditch out.
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Better yet, lets hunt Barnes down and get you paid for those baby fucking yoda's.....
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On the real tho, if someone has some dick trophies they want printed, hit me up. I'm about to go do some airboat cleanup on the winch cover
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Winch cover pieces all printed. One of the hinge half pieces was really wonky but I'm just sending it since I'm likely going to redesign this whole thing. Not great, but not horrible. I'm finding that with big pieces with perfectly flat surfaces, if your setup isn't on point the layers get jacked and then screw up the layers above that. So I might make the next iteration with some profile changes so it's not one big flat. Then it'll likely print better and the flaws can be sanded out and blended in. This ABS plastic took 220 grit pretty well from the orbital. And I've had a couple of the pieces sitting on the trailer for a week and they don't warp in the sun from the heat. Seem to hold up pretty well so far.

You can see where it warped on the base plate and retracted, and where some of the layers got shifted and skipped. I used some wood glue and then sanded it down a little. Overdrilled the holes to accommodate the dowel hinge pins. I think I'll seal this one up and 3m tape it to the trailer as a working prototype while I design the next one.

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Acid666 wrote: Wed Jul 14, 2021 9:48 pm
CaleDeRoo wrote: Wed Jul 14, 2021 7:40 pm Can you make a trophy for the cuck of the year poll winner?
That I can. Pay me $40 and then I'll never log back into the forum and ditch out.
:ohdang:
4zilch wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 8:46 am I'm a fucking failure.
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This is awesome. I'm really getting intrigued by this, I should look into picking up a printer...
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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Detroit wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 9:07 am This is awesome. I'm really getting intrigued by this, I should look into picking up a printer...
So far I'm loving it, but it definitely takes some problem solving skills to figure shit out and get it printing right. Maybe if you spent a bit more money you wouldn't have some of the petty problems that I've had, but then again you will still need to figure what settings work best for your setup and materials (which is in your slicing program, not the printer itself). I pretty much nailed the nozzle and bed temperatures and speeds for basic PLA plastic, but ABS is still giving me weird issues. I still can't get it to properly adhere to the bed, it'll retract several hours into the print and start to affect the layers above that. Basically it'll curl in on itself as the bottom cools. I'm still messing with it to figure it out, and usually you can find a way around things like if you know it curls up, then print it with a surface that's almost sacrificial that can be sanded down after it's done.

All in all it's a pretty cheap tool for rapid prototyping things. I haven't even begun to print things that I've designed from scratch yet other than this winch cover. And I'm learning the tolerances of the holes it creates, and how the surfaces take sanding. Once we get into the Lemons MR2 I'll start designing some interesting pieces from the ground up.
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Acid666 wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 9:40 am
Detroit wrote: Thu Jul 15, 2021 9:07 am This is awesome. I'm really getting intrigued by this, I should look into picking up a printer...
So far I'm loving it, but it definitely takes some problem solving skills to figure shit out and get it printing right. Maybe if you spent a bit more money you wouldn't have some of the petty problems that I've had, but then again you will still need to figure what settings work best for your setup and materials. I pretty much nailed the nozzle and bed temperatures and speeds for basic PLA plastic, but ABS is still giving me weird issues. I still can't get it to properly adhere to the bed, it'll retract several hours into the print and start to affect the layers above that. Basically it'll curl in on itself as the bottom cools. I'm still messing with it to figure it out, and usually you can find a way around things like if you know it curls up, then print it with a surface that's almost sacrificial that can be sanded down after it's done.

All in all it's a pretty cheap tool for rapid prototyping things. I haven't even begun to print things that I've designed from scratch yet other than this winch cover. And I'm learning the tolerances of the holes it creates, and how the surfaces take sanding. Once we get into the Lemons MR2 I'll start designing some interesting pieces from the ground up.
I've come to realize that I'm really an engineer in mind, I just sucked at math so couldn't hack it in school to get the degree. I REALLY want to tinker with something and create things and I've always been intrigued by the opportunities 3d printing opens up. I enjoy problem solving and constantly improving.

:popcorn: for your learning as you create things from scratch.
Desertbreh wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 6:40 pm My guess would be that Chris took some time off because he has read the dialogue on this page 1,345 times and decided to spend some of his free time doing something besides beating a horse to death.
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